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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I ventured about 2 hours for this damn MS6 because I found it for an AMAZING price, but now I am understanding why it was such a good price... I am not familiar with MS6 problems but have owned 7 DSM's and know those cars inside & out. However, today I encountered a problem that I have never encountered before.
Here is the play-by-play:
I started the car this morning about 7:45am let it warm up while blasting the defroster (Front & Rear).
Around 7:50 the car was not at operating temp, but just above the cold mark, so drivable.
I pop her in reverse to back off my driveway w/ no problems...
I put in in 1st no problems...
I start to drive up my hill (500ft) w/ no problems...
I get to the top of the hill and stop because there are 2 trash trucks blocking my way...
I sit there for about a minute and decide F this I am going a different way...
**This is where the problems start**
I put it in reverse and give it gas and everything dies, but the car is still running, so I let off the gas and everything comes back on...
I sit for a second and try again... SAME THING HAPPENS
I try it one more time and the same thing happens, but this time the car dies on me...
I am now sitting sideways between 2 driveways in the middle of the road and one of the trash men helps push me down the hill.
The car will not start and won't even crank...
SOOOOOOOO... WTF is going on? Any ideas?

BTW:
Car information:
2006 MS6 w/ 38k miles on it.
Stock except Turbosmart BOV.
Had CEL P0300 (Random Cylinder Misfire) but only affected WOT driving.
I baby it, but then again I have only owned it for 3 days... May be related, may not.
 

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I would start by checking the battery with a volt meter and see if there is any juice in it, 12.5 V is what is should be.

I have a 1990 Honda Accord and when my alternator died when I would put on the turn signal it would shut off my stereo and other strange electrical issues.

When you say it won't crank, does it click when you try and crank it? Does it do anything? When you get the car to ACC, do any lights come on? Can you get your hazard lights to work?
 

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I hope it's just your battery. The car should give you problem free yrs to come. Just read the newbie thread and fix things that will go wrong and you will be fine. Welcome to the 6Club, by the way.
 

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Might as well check the alternator while the multimeter is out. One to + and one to - terminal should read 14.2-14.4 volts.
 

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I'd have to agree thats it's probably an alternator issue. Sounds like the alternator died while the car was warming up, then you were driving using just what was left in the battery. I had a 89 ford probe and the belt to the alternator snapped, my dad gave me a jump and a quick charge, then I had to drive home with no electronics, and my dash was all digital, no speedo, no rpm, nothing, then every thing died when I was a couple blocks away but still doing 50mph with no power brakes, no power steering. So yeah, alternator or belt, then hope you didn't kill your battery and that it will still hold a charge.
 

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You caught on to what I am betting the issue is.
Yeah, and a sick alternator will cause misfires, and all kinds of other problems. Too bad there's not a sensor for the alternator that can throw a code if it's not putting out the correct volts.
 

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Yeah, and a sick alternator will cause misfires, and all kinds of other problems. Too bad there's not a sensor for the alternator that can throw a code if it's not putting out the correct volts.
I had an alternator go haywire on a 1994 Buick LaSaber, freaking thing was out putting 18-19V, I had a bunch of codes going off, Air Bag light was coming on saying I had a bad sensor. The mechanic figured it out finally and popped on a new one and it solved all the issues.
 

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Like stated I would check battery first then move on to alternator.
Is it the stock battery?
4 years is about when you should replace iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Alright well I just decided to replace the battery and whala, I figured it was the problem just never seen a car die like it did... She is purring like a kitten... Also the alternator output is good, I checked it and all is good.

HOWEVER... Now my boost gauge is dead & my (automatic) power windows don't work. I can open and close the windows from their respective doors, but the master controlls do not work.
*** Windows Fixed***
Boost gauges still not working (Does everyone use Electric boost gauges on these cars? I HATE them personally I love Mechanical)

Thanks for all the help, just not familiar with this high tech vehicle LOL... I am still in the mind set of my 1990-1999 Eclipse GSX.

BTW: What all fuses should be connected in the kickpanal? I have replaced a few and there are a few missing? The d*mn car didn't come with a manual so I am not entirely sure what all needs to be hooked up and what I can do without.
Cigar 15A was blown (Replaced)
R.Wip 10A - Missing
P.Wind IG 30A - Missing
P.Wind 20A - Missing
Circuit AJ51 - Missing
 

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From the noob thread: "My windows won't go down automatically & I can't control them from the driver's door??!
Happens after the battery is disconnected. Simply roll down EACH window a bit, then back up, holding the button "up" until you hear a couple clicks. ALL SET!"

Before you get told to search. This issue happens on a lot of cars including my old Scion tC, good thing there is a simple fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From the noob thred: "My windows won't go down automatically & I can't control them from the driver's door??!
Happens after the battery is disconnected. Simply roll down EACH window a bit, then back up, holding the button "up" until you hear a couple clicks. ALL SET!"

Before you get told to search. This issue happens on a lot of cars including my old Scion tC, good thing there is a simple fix.
Somehow I overlooked the BRIGHT RED BOLD FONT...
 

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BTW: What all fuses should be connected in the kickpanal? I have replaced a few and there are a few missing? The d*mn car didn't come with a manual so I am not entirely sure what all needs to be hooked up and what I can do without.
I'm pretty sure I have an electronic copy of the manual at home. Not 100%, but I Think I do. I can host it for you later. Just PM me to remind me if I don't get it by later tonight.

EDIT: I had a copy on my work laptop too, lol. Download it here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/yghe26pwq4bmmo4/2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Owner's Manual.pdf
 

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I'm pretty sure I have an electronic copy of the manual at home. Not 100%, but I Think I do. I can host it for you later. Just PM me to remind me if I don't get it by later tonight.
You can get the 2006 version from here:
Mazda 6/Mazdaspeed 6 Manuals Online

I'm sure Mazda USA has them somewhere on their website too.
 

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Glad you figured it out!
 

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i am not amazingly car savvy but you still might want to make sure the alternator is working properly. if the alternator is bad or going bad then it would not be recharging your battery and therefore causing you to run on only battery power. so if your battery was discharged due to a bad alternator, replacing the battery may appear to fix the issue since it should be fully charged.

idk just check the alternator too to be sure :) wouldnt want this happening again to you.


ooops didnt read one sentence of what you said and it happened to be the one where you said you checked the alternator.

POST FAIL :(
 

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The sending unit might have been fried, especially if it's a prosport gauge, those seem to have finicky sending units.
 

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i am not amazingly car savvy but you still might want to make sure the alternator is working properly. if the alternator is bad or going bad then it would not be recharging your battery and therefore causing you to run on only battery power. so if your battery was discharged due to a bad alternator, replacing the battery may appear to fix the issue since it should be fully charged.

idk just check the alternator too to be sure :) wouldnt want this happening again to you.
Good advice and a lot of places will do a free check for you. Such as an Autozone or Advance Auto.
 

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Welcome!
Always nice to have another Speed6 around!

Glad you got your first issue resolved- this car is a pesky beast when it comes to electricity- as you found out on your own...

+1 on the boost gauge sending unit being fried. Mechanical will be fine and we seem to be about 50/50 on number of folks running mechanical -vs- electronic. Go with what ya know.

The owners manual has been posted by a few folks for ya, and there are several other nice pdf files out there as well. Even better tho, do a search for the FSM (factory service manual) and you should be able to locate a link to one of the competing forums, where an enterprising and incredibly generous soul has paid to have professionally scanned the 3200+ pages of the FSM. It's tucked away in their VIP section, and ya have to cough up a $10 "donation" to the site to gain VIP access.

Worth
Every
Penny
!!!!!
 
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