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Discussion Starter #1
There are a bunch of spark plug threads floating around so I thought why not take a few pics and post a how to for those that may not have changed plugs on the speed or on any car for that matter.
OK
There is probably some ifo that could be added along the way but here is what I do know
The stock relacement NGK plug part number is
ILTR6A-8G
one step colder part number is
LTR7IX-11
I'm installing the one step colder NGK's in the pics
I bought a set of stock heat range plugs and 1 step colder plugs from www.clubplug.net
you can get either heat range plug for under 12.00 each compared to 19.00 and up offered at some other vendors
HKS makes 2 heat ranges as well
this is a cut and paste from the HKSUSA site:
M-Series Super Fire Racing Plugs
50003-M35LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 7 1 $22.97



50003-M40LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 8 1 $22.97


as for the install
it's very staight forward with common tools....
first remove the intercooler shroud by taking the 2 - 10mm bolts off and sliding the shroud back toward the firewall for removal

next start removing the your TMIC (top mounted intercooler) by taking off the 3 - 12mm mounting bolts
there are two in the front, one in the rear of the TMIC


next remove the vacuum line to the BOV(blow off valve) and remove the lower hose clamp by the throttle body
this hose clamp can be loosened with a phillips screwdriver or a 10mm socket

and lastly to remove the TMIC, loosen the hose clamp on the rear of the intercooler
also 10mm or phillips screwdriver

pull up on the rear of the intercooler seperating the intercooler from the rear hose connection - then wiggle the intercooler back and forth to free it from the front lower hose connection by the throttle body
once the intercooler is off and set aside, remove the 4 - 8mm bolts that hold down the coils
then simply pull up on each coil carefully

now you are ready to remove the spark plugs
using a 5/8 spark plug socket(has rubber in the socket to hold the plug in place while removing and installing)


once they are removed, reinstall everything in reverse order
I gapped my plugs at .32
Please be careful when doing this
I personally use feeler gauges when gapping plugs to ensure proper gap. I don't trust the cheesey spark plug tools from auto stores. I use a Jacob's Electronics plug gapper on standard type plugs but irridium tip plugs are very fragile so feeler gauges are the way to go IMO
I also use electric grease on the spark plug boot/coil before re-installing plus ***very important*** use a small amount of anti-seize on the new spark plug threads to allow for easy removal in the future.

 

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Thanks so much for the post and great pics. I have a question about the valve cover 'valley'. Is there any way for water to drain out of that valley, or is it closed on all 4 sides? I've lost 2 coilpacks to what the dealership is calling 'water intrusion'. The tech noted that he found standing water during this procedure and I was wondering where in the world that would have been until I saw your pictures.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much for the post and great pics. I have a question about the valve cover 'valley'. Is there any way for water to drain out of that valley, or is it closed on all 4 sides? I've lost 2 coilpacks to what the dealership is calling 'water intrusion'. The tech noted that he found standing water during this procedure and I was wondering where in the world that would have been until I saw your pictures.

Thanks[/b]
anytime!
as for the valley area, I didn't notice any type of drainage holes or passages
I think if you have a lot of water in there, the only way to remove it is letting the engine heat burn it off evetually or to dry it with a rag
I wonder how you are getting so much water in there unless you are continually steam cleaning the engine compartment or using bags of ice over the intercooler between rounds at the track?????
Either way, try to keep water out of there if possible.
If you pack the connector and boot with electril grease when dry, that would kinda help your situation but keep;ing water away from the coils is seemlingly key
 

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Strangely enough, the first coilpack failure came shortly after driving in a very hard rain. I keep the engine bay clean via wiping down with microfiber cloths and mild cleaning agents, and I noticed the day after the heavy rain that there were tons of dirty water spots all up inside the hood ducting, indicating that rain water or water coming off other people's tires were going through the ducting. I don't know how much water made it to the valve cover, but the following day on my way home (80 mile drive) suddenly I had a coilpack failure on #2.

I had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago, the day after I washed the car (not the engine) at the coin-op car wash. I always dry underneath the hood, and I noticed that I once again had water in the ducting from the high pressure spray aimed at the nose during the wash, and the next day....fried coilpack again. This time #3.

It wasn't completely clear to me what the technician noted, whether he actually found water, or found that water HAD BEEN there, but they added to my work order that washing the engine is a no-no.

Imagine the problems I'd have if I washed the engine. Kind of a bad design, IMO. Since there's a direct path from the nose of the car to the intercooler, and down on top of the valve cover, drains would seemingly be essential.

Thanks for the info!
 

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There are a bunch of spark plug threads floating around so I thought why not take a few pics and post a how to for those that may not have changed plugs on the speed or on any car for that matter.OK There is probably some ifo that could be added along the way but here is what I do knowThe stock relacement NGK plug part number isILTR6A-8Gone step colder part number isLTR7IX-11I'm installing the one step colder NGK's in the picsI bought a set of stock heat range plugs and 1 step colder plugs from www.clubplug.netyou can get either heat range plug for under 12.00 each compared to 19.00 and up offered at some other vendorsHKS makes 2 heat ranges as well this is a cut and paste from the HKSUSA site:M-Series Super Fire Racing Plugs50003-M35LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 7 1 $22.97 50003-M40LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 8 1 $22.97 as for the installit's very staight forward with common tools....first remove the intercooler shroud by taking the 2 - 10mm bolts off and sliding the shroud back toward the firewall for removal
next start removing the your TMIC (top mounted intercooler) by taking off the 3 - 12mm mounting boltsthere are two in the front, one in the rear of the TMIC
next remove the vacuum line to the BOV(blow off valve) and remove the lower hose clamp by the throttle bodythis hose clamp can be loosened with a phillips screwdriver or a 10mm socket
and lastly to remove the TMIC, loosen the hose clamp on the rear of the intercooleralso 10mm or phillips screwdriver
pull up on the rear of the intercooler seperating the intercooler from the rear hose connection - then wiggle the intercooler back and forth to free it from the front lower hose connection by the throttle bodyonce the intercooler is off and set aside, remove the 4 - 8mm bolts that hold down the coilsthen simply pull up on each coil carefully
now you are ready to remove the spark plugsusing a 5/8 spark plug socket(has rubber in the socket to hold the plug in place while removing and installing)
once they are removed, reinstall everything in reverse orderI gapped my plugs at .32Please be careful when doing thisI personally use feeler gauges when gapping plugs to ensure proper gap. I don't trust the cheesey spark plug tools from auto stores. I use a Jacob's Electronics plug gapper on standard type plugs but irridium tip plugs are very fragile so feeler gauges are the way to go IMOI also use electric grease on the spark plug boot/coil before re-installing plus ***very important*** use a small amount of anti-seize on the new spark plug threads to allow for easy removal in the future.
[/b]
Great write up and pics. Thanks alot. Just curious if your BOV is noisy or if it brought in a CEL?Thanks
Great write up and pics. Thanks alot. Just curious if your BOV is noisy or if it brought in a CEL?Thanks[/b]
OK. I'm trying again. Must have hit the wrong reply button. Great write and pics. Thanks alot. Just curious if you BOV is noisy or brings in a CEL?Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great write up and pics. Thanks alot. Just curious if your BOV is noisy or if it brought in a CEL?ThanksOK. I'm trying again. Must have hit the wrong reply button. Great write and pics. Thanks alot. Just curious if you BOV is noisy or brings in a CEL?Thanks again[/b]
The Greddy Type-RS BOV isn't that loud really, the 3" custom inlet and CAI combined, well that's another story....sounds mean and I like it :yesnod:
I'm running the BOV VTA and it isn't that loud especially since I installed the Greddy anti-stall valve
 

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I posted this in the other spark plug topic but no one has responded. Sorry for the double post but I thought this topic was more appropriate as this is where whoosh first mentioned his new plugs.

So this is from the NGK website. I'd really like to go a step colder also but I'm concerned about the reach difference of the two plugs. I'm too much of a noob to know if this matters but it seems like the colder plug might not extend into the cylinder as far as the oem. Will this have an effect? The gap is also pretty different. I guess it could be fixed but I've always heard that Ir plugs were fragile.

stock heat range replacement
NGK ILTR6A8G
Stock Number: 3787
Iridium plug, 14mm, 26.5mm reach, 5/8" hex, tapered seat, resistor, extremely long life plug, special firing end construction, iridium center electrode with platinum tipped ground electrode, .032" gap

1 step colder
NGK LTR7IX-11
Iridium IX plug, 14mm, 25mm reach, 5/8" hex, tapered seat, resistor, fine wire (0.6mm) iridium center electrode, tapered cut ground electrode, .044" gap
 

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Whoosh,

Thanks man this is great. Going to change my plugs when I install the hks ignition next week, and this makes me feel a little better prepared.
:love:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Whoosh,Thanks man this is great. Going to change my plugs when I install the hks ignition next week, and this makes me feel a little better prepared. :love:[/b]
anytime
I posted this in the other spark plug topic but no one has responded. Sorry for the double post but I thought this topic was more appropriate as this is where whoosh first mentioned his new plugs.So this is from the NGK website. I'd really like to go a step colder also but I'm concerned about the reach difference of the two plugs. I'm too much of a noob to know if this matters but it seems like the colder plug might not extend into the cylinder as far as the oem. Will this have an effect? The gap is also pretty different. I guess it could be fixed but I've always heard that Ir plugs were fragile.stock heat range replacementNGK ILTR6A8GStock Number: 3787Iridium plug, 14mm, 26.5mm reach, 5/8" hex, tapered seat, resistor, extremely long life plug, special firing end construction, iridium center electrode with platinum tipped ground electrode, .032" gap1 step colderNGK LTR7IX-11Iridium IX plug, 14mm, 25mm reach, 5/8" hex, tapered seat, resistor, fine wire (0.6mm) iridium center electrode, tapered cut ground electrode, .044" gap[/b]
also posted in the other spark plug thread....I spoke with 2 different techs at NGK, 1 over the phone, 1 on e mail months ago and they both stated that the LTR7IX-11's are acceptable replacements for the ILTR6A8G's on a mildly to highly modded engine.Your car definitely falls into that category well before my car. I am very pleased with the performance and value of the plugs.I was told the sizes of the plugs were identical but based on your post, they are not although I'm not worried for the simple fact that the reach of the colder plug is shorter by 1.5mm which means no trouble on the horizon.
 

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anytime also posted in the other spark plug thread....I spoke with 2 different techs at NGK, 1 over the phone, 1 on e mail months ago and they both stated that the LTR7IX-11's are acceptable replacements for the ILTR6A8G's on a mildly to highly modded engine.Your car definitely falls into that category well before my car. I am very pleased with the performance and value of the plugs.I was told the sizes of the plugs were identical but based on your post, they are not although I'm not worried for the simple fact that the reach of the colder plug is shorter by 1.5mm which means no trouble on the horizon.

Thanks. I didn't mean to challenge and I'm SOOOO very appreciative of your research. Sounds like you were really careful and thorough. I've placed an order for the LTR7IX-11s and I'll be using your instructions for the install. Thanks for that as well.
 

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Just got a call back from NGK. Apparently the website, www.ngk.com had the wrong information for the oem plug, ILTR6A-8G. It has a 25 mm reach just like the plug whoosh is using, the LTR7IX-11. The only difference is the gap. The LTR7IX11 has a .044" while the oem has a .032" gap. NGK only recommends going down a max of .010 from the way the plug comes out of the box. So if it's .044", we're only supposed to bring it down to .034". I bought my set from www.clubplug.com for $8 each which is $3.71 cheaper than the oems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just got a call back from NGK. Apparently the website, www.ngk.com had the wrong information for the oem plug, ILTR6A-8G. It has a 25 mm reach just like the plug whoosh is using, the LTR7IX-11. The only difference is the gap. The LTR7IX11 has a .044" while the oem has a .032" gap. NGK only recommends going down a max of .010 from the way the plug comes out of the box. So if it's .044", we're only supposed to bring it down to .034". I bought my set from www.clubplug.com for $8 each which is $3.71 cheaper than the oems.[/b]
awesome
thanks for clearing that up
I remember the NGK techs telling me they were identical
BTW, I gapped mine at .32 and I'm good to go
Since they are only 8 beans per plug(I paid 11.71 each), I'm going to order another set and gap them at .34 just to see if I feel a difference.
Thanks!!!!
 

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How many miles were on your engine when you changed the plugs?
 

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The stock relacement NGK plug part number is
ILTR6A-8G
one step colder part number is
LTR7IX-11

HKS makes 2 heat ranges as well
this is a cut and paste from the HKSUSA site:
M-Series Super Fire Racing Plugs
50003-M35LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 7 1 $22.97
50003-M40LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 8 1 $22.97
[/b]
Ok, I don't know much about plugs so help me out here.

Would there be a difference between the HKS and NKG plugs? (besides paying way more)

Second question would one step colder from a heat range of 6 be 7? Or would it be 5?

And then to really show off how much I know, what negative side effects can be seen from running colder plugs on a near stock engine? Would that cause slightly less combusion burn? If so, you could add an ignition amp like the HKS and it would help correct the problem right?

Thanks for the help! :)
 

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7 is colder than 6 for NGK plugs. All manufacturers have different numbering systems so you'll have to check with HKS. NGK generally recommends a colder plug for modified engines. The more extreme the mods, the colder the plug.

From wickipedia:
Heat range

The operating temperature of a spark plug is the actual physical temperature at the tip of the spark plug within the running engine. This is determined by a number of factors, but primarily the actual temperature within the combustion chamber. There is no direct relationship between the actual operating temperature of the spark plug and spark voltage. However, the level of torque currently being produced by the engine will strongly influence spark plug operating temperature because the maximum temperature and pressure occurs when the engine is operating near peak torque output (torque and RPM directly determine the power output). The temperature of the insulator responds to the thermal conditions it is exposed to in the combustion chamber but not vice versa. If the tip of the spark plug is too hot it can cause pre-ignition leading to detonation/knocking and damage may occur. If it is too cold, electrically conductive deposits may form on the insulator causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-out of the spark current.

A spark plug is said to be "hot" if it is a better heat insulator, keeping more heat in the tip of the spark plug. A spark plug is said to be "cold" if it can conduct more heat out of the spark plug tip and lower the tip's temperature. Whether a spark plug is "hot" or "cold" is known as the heat range of the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is typically specified as a number, with some manufacturers using ascending numbers for hotter plugs and others doing the opposite, using descending numbers for hotter plugs.

The heat range of a spark plug (i.e. in scientific terms its thermal conductivity characteristics) is affected by the construction of the spark plug: the types of materials used, the length of insulator and the surface area of the plug exposed within the combustion chamber. For normal use, the selection of a spark plug heat range is a balance between keeping the tip hot enough at idle to prevent fouling and cold enough at maximum power to prevent pre-ignition leading to engine knocking. By examining "hotter" and "cooler" spark plugs of the same manufacturer side by side, the principle involved can be very clearly seen; the cooler plugs have more substantial ceramic insulators filling the gap between the center electrode and the shell, effectively carrying off the heat, while the hotter plugs have less ceramic material, so that the tip is more isolated from the body of the plug and retains heat better.

Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases, the side walls of the cylinder and the spark plug itself. The heat range of a spark plug has only a minute effect on combustion chamber and overall engine temperature. A cold plug will not materially cool down an engine's running temperature. (Too hot of a plug may, however, indirectly lead to a runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase engine temperature.) Rather, the main effect of a "hot" or "cold" plug is to affect the temperature of the tip of the spark plug.

It was common before the modern era of computerized fuel injection to specify at least a couple of different heat ranges for plugs for an automobile engine; a hotter plug for cars which were mostly driven mildly around the city, and a colder plug for sustained high speed highway use. This practice has, however, largely become obsolete now that cars' fuel/air mixtures and cylinder temperatures are maintained within a narrow range, for purposes of limiting emissions. Racing engines, however, still benefit from picking a proper plug heat range. Very old racing engines will sometimes have two sets of plugs, one just for starting and another to be installed once the engine is warmed up, for actually driving the car.
 

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Much appreciation for the write-up. I just changed my spark plugs no problem and before I would have had a friend a work do this for me.
 
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