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I have a 2010 mazda 6i non-bose. I am replacing new speakers on all four doors and running new speaker wires 14 AWG from an amplifier. My problem is I cannot find a way to fish the new speaker wires through the harness and into the door. Is it ok to cut the existing wires and connect it the new speaker wires? Since the new speaker wires are larger than the existing one, will this affect the quality of the sound? For anyone who were able to replace there speaker wires, how were you able to fish the wires through the door? Any suggestions please!

Thank you!

-Rommel
 

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How much power you planning on pushing per channel?

------------------------- if you're going to do it -------------
What you need to do is open the doors all the way, unplug the door harness.

Pop the body harness out and turn it towards you, then drill it out.
 

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Easier way to do that... get a reverse harness (plugs into the HU), run that to the amps inputs (from the HU), then use a normal (forward) harness to run from the amps outputs, to the harness behind the HU. Flawless and completely removable.
 

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molave --- stock wires will take that no problem--- no aftermarket whips are available so you'll have to cut unfortunately.

Talon; not sure what you're talking about. No reverse harnesses exist outside of for the head unit; Gen2 has no amp for non-bose as well. He's talking speaker-side, not head unit side.
 

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molave --- stock wires will take that no problem--- no aftermarket whips are available so you'll have to cut unfortunately.

Talon; not sure what you're talking about. No reverse harnesses exist outside of for the head unit; Gen2 has no amp for non-bose as well. He's talking speaker-side, not head unit side.
What is a whip?
You mean Metra doesnt make a harness to repair the factory wiring if the plug gets cut off? They make them for all cars ive ever worked on, try Best Buy. Either way, use an aftermarket HU harness to run the amp output to the factory wiring (using the whit, grey, purple, green speaker wires, all other go to HU for power etc), same as if the HU was powering the speakers, no cutting necessary. This will work best if running an aftermarket HU obviously.
 

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What is a whip?
You mean Metra doesnt make a harness to repair the factory wiring if the plug gets cut off? They make them for all cars ive ever worked on, try Best Buy. Either way, use an aftermarket HU harness to run the amp output to the factory wiring (using the whit, grey, purple, green speaker wires, all other go to HU for power etc), same as if the HU was powering the speakers, no cutting necessary. This will work best if running an aftermarket HU obviously.
A wire whip? A connector? Harness?

What is this "best buy" you speak of? Is it one of those "brick and mortar" establishments where people used to physically walk into in the 1960s to acquire a crystal so that their radio could tune to a specific frequency?

Seriously though, yes, I mean Metra doesn't make one; they actually have a website you can check on . . or Crutchfield, Amazon etc.

-- The only reason that you can get connectors to not cut OE speaker connectors is because the car manufacturers are nice enough to (too lazy) re-use old connectors. Some mazdas' use 1988 ford connectors . . . not the modern ones.

The newest Mazdas use a 4-pin connector (something like 1mm pins) for even the stock stereos that have 2-pins. Too new, nothing exists, even though they came out no later than summer of 2008.

We have male/female stereo harnesses because they're reusing the standard 24 pin mazda connectors that they've been using for a decade (or more?) now.

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Metra, Scosche, American International . . . none of them have any more for this vehicle than there was a year ago.

-Ernie
 

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A wire whip? A connector? Harness?

What is this "best buy" you speak of? Is it one of those "brick and mortar" establishments where people used to physically walk into in the 1960s to acquire a crystal so that their radio could tune to a specific frequency?
Are you 10 or just from England? LOL

-- The only reason that you can get connectors to not cut OE speaker connectors is because the car manufacturers are nice enough to (too lazy) re-use old connectors. Some mazdas' use 1988 ford connectors . . . not the modern ones.
Are you talking SPEAKER adapters, or behind the radio adapters like i am?

The newest Mazdas use a 4-pin connector (something like 1mm pins) for even the stock stereos that have 2-pins. Too new, nothing exists, even though they came out no later than summer of 2008.

We have male/female stereo harnesses because they're reusing the standard 24 pin mazda connectors that they've been using for a decade (or more?) now.
In english? LOL. One minute you say nothing exists, then you say we have them!?

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Metra, Scosche, American International . . . none of them have any more for this vehicle than there was a year ago.

-Ernie
Hmm...
Metra Electronics Corp. - 71-7903



Description
OEM Radio Harness

Product Specifications


  • Plugs into OEM Radio
  • Power and 4-Speaker
  • 24-pin connector
The 71-series harnesses are designed to plug into the factory radio. Can be used to repair a harness where the plugs have been cut off or damaged.
So, pray tell, whats that i found?


Heres for an 01 up
Metra Electronics Corp. - 70-7903



Description
Mazda Protege 2001-Up - Into Car

Product Specifications


  • Power and 4-Speaker
  • Plugs into car harness at radio
  • 24-pin connector
Allows installation of an aftermarket radio using the existing factory wiring and connectors. No cutting of factory wiring is needed.
 

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Are you 10 or just from England? LOL

Are you talking SPEAKER adapters, or behind the radio adapters like i am?

In english? LOL. One minute you say nothing exists, then you say we have them!?

Hmm...
So, pray tell, whats that i found?


Heres for an 01 up
Which of these goes to the back of the speaker?

I am replacing new speakers on all four doors and running new speaker wires 14 AWG from an amplifier. My problem is I cannot find a way to fish the new speaker wires through the harness and into the door. Is it ok to cut the existing wires and connect it the new speaker wires? Since the new speaker wires are larger than the existing one, will this affect the quality of the sound? For anyone who were able to replace there speaker wires, how were you able to fish the wires through the door?
It's nice you're trying to help, but a 24 pin connector isn't going to help him run new speaker wire to the doors.
 

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Which of these goes to the back of the speaker?



It's nice you're trying to help, but a 24 pin connector isn't going to help him run new speaker wire to the doors.
This one does.... im trying to keep him from thinking he has to cut when he doesnt...

Metra Electronics Corp. - 72-5600


Description
Speaker Harness

Product Specifications


  • One kit needed per pair of speakers
Allows installation of aftermarket speakers without cutting factory wiring. See below for specific vehicle notes.
You use the 24 pin radio harness FROM the amp (to the car) then the speaker adapters in the doors. Easy, cheap and allows you to return to stock. Trust me, ive been doing this almost 20 years.
 

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You are posting images of speaker connectors that do not connect to the 4-pin 2009+ vehicles.

There is no amp in 2009+, non-Bose stereos.

People can trust your 20 years of whatever, but it doesn't help if you put the wrong parts up. Mazda uses different connectors now.
 

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I ran my 14 ga through the rubber boot between the door and door jam. (1st gen)

I don't recommend this.

It was a pain in the ass.
I accidently broke one of the 22 ga wires that run my passenger side mirror.
repairing my goof up was more than just a bitch. It was 7 bitches on a bitch boat.
 

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Yeah, that's a big wire. The gen2 actually has connectors at the doors, not sure about gen1. I fit 16ga through; should have used lube.

This has been the hardest vehicle to run stuff through that I've ever done.
 

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i just spliced into factory wiring, its 5 inches of wire and didnt expect it to make a difference.
 

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I think the OP wants to run 14awg wires for an improvment in audio fidelity.

That being the assumption, any OEM harness/pin/plug/connector/crimp/lug/wire that is less than 14awg is not the solution he is looking for.

Using higher awg wire (thinner) for a short distance makes running 14awg meaningless. its like pinching your garden hose. You could have the biggest hose is the world but if you have an area where the flow is restricted, that's the max flow rate you're going to get. (You can google water flow/electric analogies for more info)
 

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I think the OP wants to run 14awg wires for an improvment in audio fidelity.

That being the assumption, any OEM harness/pin/plug/connector/crimp/lug/wire that is less than 14awg is not the solution he is looking for.

Using higher awg wire (thinner) for a short distance makes running 14awg meaningless. its like pinching your garden hose. You could have the biggest hose is the world but if you have an area where the flow is restricted, that's the max flow rate you're going to get. (You can google water flow/electric analogies for more info)
That's a fair assumption (and good explanation). Lots of people think they need bigger wire because proper size power/ground is essential . . . the translation gets lost though when you're talking about powered audio signal.

For the 8 foot you may run, even 18ga is sufficient for higher than average systems (not high power though).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you everyone for your help. I decided to cut the existing wires and connect them to the 14 AWG new speaker wires. Looking back, I should have bought smaller gauge speaker wires. I read somewhere that 18 AWG wire vs 12 AWG wire does not make any noticeable difference. Now I just have to find a way to get the power wire through the fire wall...urgh!!!
 

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THe narrowest wire is the weakest link, so it could be 20ga and it will work the same.

There's a big difference between 18awg and 12awg IF you're near the limit, but you're not, so anything is fine.
 

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18 gauge is sufficient for a 1500 watt extension cord. I think whatever is in the stock harness is more than sufficient for *any* door speaker. In truth, for most of you listening, you would never go over 2 watts to a door speaker. Really cranking on it to the point that pain or severe door rattles occur would be less than 40 watts. You would only hit those levels for a microsecond. The loss through a factory wire setup is *very* negligible, even if you are using huge amps.
Sometime if you have it available, look for a high end, but blown 6 or 7" door speaker, and unwind the voice coil. The wire is so thin, you can barely see it.
There is a point of diminishing returns, and 12 gauge to a door speaker is *way* past that. (No offense to anyone who has done that, just my opinion.)
Were only talking a few feet of wire. You can not possibly hear a difference.
In DC power transmission, the story changes quite a bit. But for ac/ speaker wiring, you are good to go.:)
 
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