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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks. Long timer lurker, first time poster.

I've got a 2014 '6 with a drivers side rear door panel/trim that has come loose (see photos). This is the flexible vinyl/leather (leatherette?) material. I can tell that it was previously attached with some kind of adhesive, since it is still sticky. Has anyone else seen an issue like this? I searched quite a bit but I could not find anyone with this same issue.

Any suggestions on how best to fix? My initial thought was to clean off the old adhesive as best I can with alcohol, and then use 3M 77 or 3M 90 spray adhesive, masking off the rest of the door to protect from the inevitable overspray. Ideally I'd probably prefer some kind of brush-on adhesive but I'm not sure what to use here (I may just spray the spray stuff into a cub, and then brush it from there).

I'm in Texas, so it needs to stand up to triple digit heat.
Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Removing the panel helps me how, exactly? The separation is between the leather and panel, not between the panel and the door. As far as I can tell, removing the panel (as shown below) doesn't give me any more access to the problem area than I already have now.

And what does "do it right" mean. I'm here literally asking the question "how best to fix?".
Your response isn't helpful.
Nor is your other off-topic comment.

Video showing this panel getting removed (panel comes off at 1:31).
 

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2004 Mazda 6s Wagon ATX
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It looks like the card itself has two panels attached to it. The upper portion seems to sit on top of the lower portion (which has come undone). If I remember the handle and upper portion will need to be removed so you can re-glue the lower portion down nice and taught. The upper portion will then attach back over the repaired lower part. To do this the whole card will have to come off as I believe there are clips sitting on the inside that need to be bent back to remove the upper part.
The aside comment was probably a PPE kinda thing. You know open toed shoes and doing auto work... However, I just watched a shop full of Pakistani machinists smelt and pour new crankshafts in sandals so I suppose it completely relative.🤷‍♂️
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you! This is exactly the kind of helpful info I was looking for. I'll see if I can locate some more detailed diagrams of the door card / clips you describe so I'll know what I'm getting into.

Any suggestions on what type of glue to use here? Seems like most folks I see with similar issues are using some form of 3M spray adhesive. Is there anything out there better suited to this task?

And thanks, I wasn't actually doing any work on the car in these photos, just snapping some photos.
 

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Rally Racer
2004 Mazda 6s Wagon ATX
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Thank you! This is exactly the kind of helpful info I was looking for. I'll see if I can locate some more detailed diagrams of the door card / clips you describe so I'll know what I'm getting into.

Any suggestions on what type of glue to use here? Seems like most folks I see with similar issues are using some form of 3M spray adhesive. Is there anything out there better suited to this task?

And thanks, I wasn't actually doing any work on the car in these photos, just snapping some photos.
I stay away from 3M spray for car repairs. I have never had luck with it lasting in the heat of a summer car interior. If I need to use a spray adhesive I go for something like this. Depending on how stiff it is you could use a hot melt glue gun, fabric glue staples.... If it is reasonably pliable the adhesive I linked might do the trick. I get mine a Joann's Fabrics. Good Luck.

Brown Bottle Liquid Fluid Cosmetics
 

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All four of mine have done that. Hot glue won’t last and 3M adhesive won’t hold. Tried both—and also 3M trim tape, unsuccessfully. It’s a loose mesh “pleather” and it has to stick to abs plastic panels. If you don’t live in the south, the heat is punishing. 100+ inside the car for often 16 hours a day. It takes its toll.

I finally took it to a guy that does upholstery. He charged me $50/door. Sounds like a lot, but 2 years and still solid. He used a spray on the plastic but glue to hold the tuck-in flap at the top. I think that is key. It easily comes out of the slot, and gravity and humidity quickly work their mayhem. Cleaning was key. He didn’t tell me the products he used, but warned me that it needed cleaned but aggressive cleaning will probably separate the pleather. It gets pretty fragile from repeated heat.

Taking the panel off won’t help much if at all. He told me that would be a mistake because I was feeling him out of this was something I wanted to try. He talked me out of it. I’m glad.

If you aren’t used to that work, you will likely have quite a mess. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks mmmmark, thanks for this input! All good points/info.

In fact, you are the only other case I have been able to find where this has happened. Looks like we have exactly the same trim level too ('14 Touring), so almost certainly exact same material and same issue.

Heck, if I could find someone to do the repair for $50/door (or even twice that), it would be worth it to me to have it done right. I think I will look around for upholstery repair shops.
 

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The old-style contact adhesive that had lots of solvent would probably be good, but that stuff is really hard to find. Newer style contact cement just does not have the same holding power, but one thing that is like the old contact cement is Shoe Goo. You would apply it to both sides, let it cure for maybe 15 minutes (or whatever the instructions say), then press it together. It will work well if you can stick it together in one shot without adjustment, since once stuck, it won't move. if you aren't able to get a clear shot to put the two pieces with glue on them together, you should probably look for something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good idea, I'm able to source the old school solvent based Contact Cement from the home center here in Texas. I've used that stuff for plastic laminate before, and completely forgot about it. Has a service temp range of up to 180 degrees (much higher than the spray adhesives) so I'll give this a shot first.
 
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