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How To Perrin EBCS "Interrupt mode" Stock Location, no splicing

20K views 99 replies 13 participants last post by  dougefresh_ 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay so here's how to set up the new "round" style Perrin Pro EBCS in "Interrupt" mode, and mounting it in the stock location. Be warned that the stock location takes a bit longer, but it looks sweet, and you don't have to worry about any "ticking" sound in the car if not insulated properly on the firewall. You MUST have a tuning method (Cobb AP, etc..) to run this in interrupt mode. The factory set up is "bleed" and it's quite different.

EDIT: Perrin now makes a PNP ebcs option for us. The new Perrin Pro EBCS is available with a Speed3/6 specific plug. I got the first one, and it fits great:



Anyways, the new New Perrin Pro Electronic Boost Control Solenoid is shaped like a cylinder. The top near my fingers has one port that goes to an unrestricted boost source. You can drill out the restrictor pill on the compressor (be careful doing that or you can screw things up) and use that as your unrestricted boost source. Unrestricted means NOTHING else can be attached to it. So, you can't used your bpv line, etc. If you have the stock tmic, you can use an ATP "Quick Tap" found here: FTG-QuickTap-CompHSG : atpturbo.com, and run a line from that as your unrestricted source, and cap off the compressor hose. I have an fmic, and there wasn't room in the coupler on my hot pipe, so I choose to have my hot pipe tapped, and an aluminum barb welded on. ALL THREE PORTS are used in interrupt mode. None of the instructions say this, because it ignores us folks that run our bpv in recirc. One port on the ebcs is used to run from the ebcs to the TIP. Note the 6club up on my laptop, and some crap flightmedic posted, lol. J/K buddy ;)



Here's my hot pipe tapped. Crappy cell pic, but weld is awesome:



PLEASE READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS, TO MAKE SURE THE PORT NUMBERS ARE THE SAME. If not, you may need to plug them into different ports. FOLLOW THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

IMPORTANT: So this is a pic of the factory set up with the STOCK ebcs still in there. On the WGA there are two tubes coming off it. The bottom one is larger, and goes to the compressor. I have no pics of the compressor, so just follow the larger tube going from the bottom of the WGA to the compressor. Remove the line going to the compressor, and depending on your set up, either 1) Drill out the restrictor pill carefully and use this as you unrestricted boost source, OR 2) Cap it off and use an ATP quick tap on your hot pipe coupler if you have room on your hot pipe coupler, OR 3) Drill a hole in your fmic hot pipe, and have an aluminum barb welded on like I did. The top of the WGA gets capped off and is not used with the Perrin set up in "interrupt" mode. ALSO: The line coming from the top of the WGA is plugged into your OEM ebcs when you start out. You can see two small vacuum lines going into it in the center of the pic. The factory plug just to the left of them is the what you will be plugging your two "naked" wires from the Perrin into, which you disassembled as described above. Finally, the factory ebcs has a bolt thread facing straight down with an 11mm (I think) nut on the bottom side of it. Unscrew this to get the stock ebcs out, and you'll need a bolt and nut to mount the Perrin ecbs to that hole, with 90 degree mounting bracket that it comes with. Now, the pic below describes where the bottom (larger) line on the WGA goes in you Perrin ebcs:




Here's a pic of the unrestricted boost source (off my hot pipe) going into the top of the Perrin installed:




In the pic below we see the Perrin mounted right on the factory location. The pic below shows the connection between the TIP, and Port #1 of the new style Perrin Pro ebcs. Note, that the Perrin can be installed "upside down" (label facing down), and therefore the port #'s will obviously be reversed, so pay attention. The pic also shows the top of the WGA capped with a piece of vacuum line and that purple bolt, lol. We just used a small piece of vacuum line, and threaded a much bigger screw into it, and zip tied it as well for good measure. MAKE SURE ALL YOUR HOSES ARE SECURED TIGHTLY. Note: In the pic, the green arrow is pointing at the purple bolt. The boost line I mention in writing on the right side of the pic is referring to the boost line that is just above it going to the top of the Perrin, just to be crystal clear.




Here we have the harder to see port #2 on the bottom of the Perrin, which goes go the bottom the the WGA. Remember we took that tube off the bottom of that actuator going to the compressor, and capped the compressor off in my set up here.






And here she is, all mounted up nice:




Remember, this is set up in "Interrupt" mode, and you WILL need a some sort of tuning method to make it run properly.

HELPFUL TIPS:
Remove your TIP and SF (or if you have a CAI, just separate that, leave it in place, and remove your TIP). Everything is super tight back there, and it's practically impossible to do this with the TIP in the way. Don't forget to plug up whatever you remove with some rags so you don't get dirt/pollen or creppy critters crawling in there while you're working. Also, test fit the hell out of it if you have the new style Perrin Pro like me. We had to pay attention to where the tiny barbs screwed into the Perrin. That is, the which direction the barbs were facing, but make sure they are screwed tightly into the Perrin, whatever you do. The barbs on the Perrin are also tiny, so not all the vacuum lines "fit" perfectly. We used smaller line when possible (for the bottom of the WGA for example), and just jammed it on.

And a big thanks to EMS for helping me wrestle with this thing this afternoon. It came out great, but mounting it in the factory location just right took some time. And if you wondering, the large 1/4" barb on the top of my Perrin (boost source) going to the 1/4" barb I had welded on the hot pipe was "aftermarket" lol.

EDIT:

For more info on the WGA, EBCS and how they work, and more pics of the turbo & compressor, as well as a couple ATR screen shots, read this great info from Perrin's website that explains everything very well and in detail:

Perrin Performance - Boost control explained

Also, a huge thanks to Forzda for helping everything to me. I was all thrown off, because ALL the directions say to LEAVE ONE PORT OPEN, but obviously (from pics above, lol) we have to use all 3 ports running in interrupt mode, because our bpv is set to recirc, not VTA. The "bleed" set up is different than the interrupt mode, so keep this in mind.

*Note, I have the 'newer' style Perrin, which differs from the one in the link above.




 
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#6 ·
Thanks man! Interrupt mode is also known as "fast response" mode. When your ECU is tuned properly, boost is also smoother, and and more controllable in interrupt mode (once I get my tuned right, I'll confirm this, lol) . Here is an awesome write up by Perrin which explains everything, including some tuning info with screen shots of ATR. It also has a bunch of great pics of a turbo, with all the parts labeled (including the compressor housing), and what they do and why:

Perrin Performance - Boost control explained



Great write-up Doogie! Very good details for those folks staying with the OEM turbo compressor housing!

Is everything working well now?
Thanks brother! Yeah, I try to be very thorough and think of all the questions a n00b like me could possibly have, in advance (and I usually have a ton as you know, lol). This wasn't meant to be a "how to" so I would have had more pics (of TIP out, and the bottom on the WGA, etc..), but I think I covered it quite well nonetheless. Plus that Perrin link above explains everything I didn't with pics. The other thing I missed was the first part of disassembling the plug, but Joel did a great job of that, and I linked people twice to this thread. This took a long time to write up, but I wanted to be super through, because you CANNOT screw this install up as you know. I just woke up, so I assume the car is running like it was last night with the wrong map ;). I'm gonna tweak yours out, take a shower, and then hit the road. Thanks again for all the help man, and I'll let you know how I make out in a little while :).
 
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#3 ·
Great write-up Doogie! Very good details for those folks staying with the OEM turbo compressor housing!

Is everything working well now?
 
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#4 ·
Douge, did you do a leak test after? I'm asking because when I capped one of my WG lines with a bolt, I had a leak there. And the bolt was definitely larger and secured tightly. I fixed it with a brass barb fitting (barb on one end and threads on the other) and a matching threaded cap from HD.

Quick question to people: on my setup, I capped the bottom nipple of the WG (instead of the top one), since the nipples on the EBCS are small. I used 5/32" lines. Any disadvantages to using the top nipple to drive the WG, as opposed to the larger bottom nipple? I didn't think it mattered due to the diameter of the hose I had to use. Thanks.
 
#5 ·
Douge, did you do a leak test after?
Good question and I'm thinking he indeed has a boost leak at the turbo compressor nipple. It must be plugged to run the added boost source from the turbo outlet hot pipe. We talked on the phone last evening and he has some boost issues. I'm sure he will post up the details.


[/QUOTE] ....Any disadvantages to using the top nipple to drive the WG, as opposed to the larger bottom nipple? I didn't think it mattered due to the diameter of the hose I had to use. Thanks.[/QUOTE]

There "could" be issues with a too small hose/nipple diameter in the 3-port INTERRUPT mode because your boost source must be unrestricted. The likely result would be poor boost control and boost generally higher than targeted. The EBCS blocks the boost to the WGA to allow boost to run higher than the WGA spring allows. It then applies the boost to the WGA to open the WGA to limit the boost to the ECU targeted value. If the hose/nipple were really TOO small then it would take longer for the WGA to react and you would get boost spiking and settling at almost any targeted value.

Personally, I would(and do) run the largest diameter hoses/fittings, nipples "practical" to allow instant flow and volume.

Make sense? Doogie says that sometimes I'm not clear or detailed enough in my explanations..... LOL
 
#10 ·
Ha forzda....all about the calculous?
 
#11 ·
Uhhmmmm, that would be a negative! I'm not the calc nerd, that would be Mr Doogie!
 
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#13 ·
How are you guys tuning for interrupt? I have a full interrupt mode ebcs tune, but I didnt make it. I was curious as to what all is changed.
 
#15 ·
I just reduced WGDC by 30% as "recommended" and am not over-boosting at all. I might fine tune WGDC more if necessary. I'm reaching my 17 PSI targets without spikes. Still playing around with boost targets and req. load, but I am very pleased so far. I have the Grimmspeed by the way.
 
#14 · (Edited)
there is no way that Doug has a boost leak. we had it pressurized at 20+ for over a minute with no movement on the pressure gauge, when he had a small leake in his TIP from CPE, it would depressurize in a matter of seconds. his issue must be with the difference electronically between the older style Perrin and the newer style Perrin.

and as far as using a bolt as a boost/vacuum plug, there is no problem with using it as long as you use a machine thread bolt and a zip tie to secure it. the zip tie will actually push the silicone or rubber into the threads as you squeeze it tighter.
 
#17 ·
I must say that I never tried my map without reducing WGDC, which was the recommendation. I'm a newb and "just followed the instructions" lol, and it worked OK. But now I'm curious to try the map without reducing WGDC. By the way, here's my boost source. It's half way between the compressor outlet and IC:
Auto part Suspension Fuel line Suspension part Vehicle


I don't think the other hoses are too long, given the location of my EBCS, but their internal diameter is 5/32". Anyway, I'll revert my WGDC to the original values and carefully log a WOT run. Must confirm this, and learn more!
 
#18 ·
So, I did a test today. I reverted WGDC to the original values and over-boosted a little. I have the Grimmspeed EBCS and the instructions do warn about over-boosting if you don't reduce WGDC. I'm not sure about the Perrin, but I thought it would be similar...

Background information:

  • I've been trying to tune by setting Boost Targets and increasing load until those targets are met. From what I've read on the forums (specifically info from Forzda), Boost Targets are used to reach load targets. So I would think that boost is limited to Boost Targets, even if load is really high (though I have not verified this enough). And if load goes down enough, boost will go down as well, regardless of the Boost Targets. So I can use the per-gear load tables to fine tune boost per gear. I'm sure there are other factors that also affect boost, such as the compensation tables, but I left those alone. :excl: I may be way off with this paragraph here, so correct me if I'm wrong!
  • My Boost Targets table is set to peak at ~17.3 PSI, tapering down to ~15
  • With 30% reduction in WGDC, I was hitting those targets ok. I think some fine tuning to load and WGDC may be needed to reach the targets more accurately.
  • Note that I made sure the load tables and boost/load limits work together according to the logic we all know from COBB
So my test was to increase WGDC back to the original values. This was the only change I made. The result was that I over-boosted to ~19.2 PSI, which is over my boost targets. So I'm thinking that the reason for the over-boost is too much duty cycle for my setup.

Any comments? I've already said I'm a newb, and my knowledge is based on a mixture of information from the community combined with trial and error and some assumptions :). Thanks!
 
#22 · (Edited)
  • I've been trying to tune by setting Boost Targets and increasing load until those targets are met. From what I've read on the forums (specifically info from Forzda), Boost Targets are used to reach load targets. So I would think that boost is limited to Boost Targets, even if load is really high (though I have not verified this enough). And if load goes down enough, boost will go down as well, regardless of the Boost Targets. So I can use the per-gear load tables to fine tune boost per gear.....
This works fine with the older style Perrin, and I'm not exactly sure what the trouble is here, but I'm trying to figure it out. I have load set high, but the Boost Targets table is not limiting boost as it should. I want get to the bottom of this asap. It might just be a matter of fine tuning the WGDC, etc...
  • With 30% reduction in WGDC, I was hitting those targets ok. I think some fine tuning to load and WGDC may be needed to reach the targets more accurately.
So my test was to increase WGDC back to the original values. This was the only change I made. The result was that I over-boosted to ~19.2 PSI, which is over my boost targets. So I'm thinking that the reason for the over-boost is too much duty cycle for my setup.
30% reduction across the entire table, or just at certain PPS & RPM ranges? What were your boost targets that 19.2 was over-boosting?

Yeah, I spent quite some time on the phone with Doogie today on the EBCS. He will run some more tests with the WGDC to get the right values for his particular setup.

It appears that the "new" Perrin and apparently the Grimm you're running (I assume in interrupt config) doesn't apply the boost quick enough to the WGA to keep the boost from exceeding the target. I'm guessing that if you hold the throttle down, the boost will settle at your target value. It just overshoots because the EBCS can't get closed fast enough to move the boost from the TIP nipple and apply it to the WGA.
Maybe it does need a bigger hose going from Port 2 of the new Perrin to the bottom of the WGA? Like the same size as the one that went from it to the compressor before. Perhaps air is not getting into the WGA quick enough to bleed off boost and prevent over-boosting. I dunno.

I went with the nickel plated for purely asthetic reasons. I mounted my Perrin in plain view, so I wanted the "shiny" fittings! LOL
You hubris really knows no bounds huh, Mr. Forzda?! :lol:
 
#19 ·
Yeah, I spent quite some time on the phone with Doogie today on the EBCS. He will run some more tests with the WGDC to get the right values for his particular setup.

It appears that the "new" Perrin and apparently the Grimm you're running (I assume in interrupt config) doesn't apply the boost quick enough to the WGA to keep the boost from exceeding the target. I'm guessing that if you hold the throttle down, the boost will settle at your target value. It just overshoots because the EBCS can't get closed fast enough to move the boost from the TIP nipple and apply it to the WGA.
 
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#20 ·
Yeah thats the conclusion me and my tuner are coming to, I am running off of the stock restricted nipple on the turbo and I need at a minimum a unrestricted boost source.

I am also starting to wonder if the ~1/8" NPT to nipple fitting needs to be upgraded to a larger nipple size.
 
#21 ·
Yeah thats the conclusion me and my tuner are coming to, I am running off of the stock restricted nipple on the turbo and I need at a minimum a unrestricted boost source.
Yeah, you "gotta" have unrestricted boost source or you must run it in 2-port "bleed" mode...


....I am also starting to wonder if the ~1/8" NPT to nipple fitting needs to be upgraded to a larger nipple size.
Well, I used the supplied nipples(5/32" ?) on my Perrin and it works fine, so likely not the issue.

HOWEVER, I've already purchused 1/8" NPT to 1/4" (nickel plated brass fittings from Jegs) nipples to use when I install the BNR turbo as it will be moving a LOT more air....

2 of these: JEGS 16025 JEGS NPT to Hose Fittings & Hose

and 1 of these: JEGS 16010 JEGS NPT to Hose Fittings & Hose

I went with the nickel plated for purely asthetic reasons. I mounted my Perrin in plain view, so I wanted the "shiny" fittings! LOL
 
#24 ·
Perrin Solenoid Working...

Okay so, I checked my wire connection to make sure the wires weren't touching, and they were not. However, I think the pos battery may have been loose, and causing the problem. All I know is once I tightened up the battery terminals a bit, the new Perrin started working. Not sure if there was any crossing before I took the electrical tape off (we need a plug), but it's working now anyways. So, with the Stage 2 OTS WGDC table, I was overboosting a lot. I hit over 22 PSI a couple of times. Here's a clip of the boostage. I was trying to get a vid of the needle shaking, but you can't see it in the video anyways, lol. You can see the boost get buried past 20 PSI though:




So, I definitely need to adjust my WGDC, and perhaps my boost dynamics table as well. I dropped WGDC 20% across the board, and saw some interesting stuff. Here's a shot of it (thumbnail also attached, may be easier to see):




First of all, you can see how steady boost is held with the Perrin. You can also see the car doesn't make much boost in first, but then makes more in further gears. I have to increase WGDC at lower TPS/RPMS to get her spooled up in time to hit my boost targets where I want them. I also tried reducing wgdc by only 10% from 75-100 TPS across the rpm range, and reduced it by 5% from 50-75 TPS. I still over-boosted with 22 PSI even with a 10% reduction up top. It looks like there will be some fine tuning of the WGDC table, and perhaps the Boost Dynamics table as well here. However, I want to make sure it is also not an issue with the hose sizes, particularly the hose going from the Perrin to the WGA. If it is too small, air will not be able to pressurize the wga quickly enough to allow it to open, and reduce boost when boost targets are reached, and thus boost can spike, or at least not decrease quickly enough.
 

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#25 ·
I had a similar effect where boost was lower in lower gears. I'm not sure if we should increase load in those gears or fine tune WGDC. I need more time to play with load and WGDC more. At least we have similarities. I'll try to post a log later tonight.
 
#26 ·
Sounds good. You have your ebcs set up to "interrupt" mode as well, right? I'm thinking that your lack of boost, and mine when we reduced the wgdc across the boards is solely due to the loss of wgdc at lower TPS/RPMS. That is, by reducing those early values ("across the board"), it takes longer for the turbo to spool up. So, in shorter gears, their aren't "enough rpms" so to speak to get the turbo to spool enough to hit the boost targets.

The other thing I want to rule out, is what Forzda said earlier.... that my line going from the Perrin to the wga is not too small.
 
#30 ·
Gotcha. I'm not sure if the hose size would matter, depending on what the internal chambers of the ebcs look like. Like with my set up, I have a larger boost source coming into the Perrin than is going from it to the wga. However, the same amount of air should be flowing into the WGA when boost needs to decrease... it would just be have to be at a higher pressure (larger diamter boost source --> Perrin --> smaller diameter hose to wga). So, I SHOULD be getting the wga to react the same, despite the hose size. But I can see having the same hose sizes being more controllable. I dunno....
 
#31 ·
Douge, I know you've been talking to Forzda offline, so maybe you already know this... but here's more information from him LOL. Forzda, hope you don't mind me quoting you from a COBB forum post. It's related to tuning by boost targets and I thought it would be useful to post here:

FORZDA 1 said:
Set the Load values so high (~>2.5+) you can't reach them and set your boost targets to the value you want to see. If you're not getting the boost target value, then increase the WGDC in the rpm range where you want more boost. I'm running the OEM turbo and can easily hit the boost targets.
 
#32 ·
Yeah, that's how my map's set up! I also noticed in Forzda's sig on Cobb Forums, that he has a "GT3071R & DNP mani waiting install".... I wonder what that's all about...
 
#33 ·
LOL Well, I DO have an ATP 3071 along with the BNR and a Jet-Hot 2000 coated DNP manifold waiting for install. I dropped the 3071 off my sig (in most forums!) when I got the BNR. I plan on keeping the 3071 until I feel the "need" for it. I'm pretty sure the BNR Stage 3 will put the power where it should be for max street use. The 3071 will go on if I decide to transition the car mainly to track use...
 
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#34 ·
LOL Well, I DO have an ATP 3071..... The 3071 will go on if I decide to transition the car mainly to track use...
Forget that track use crap.... take your skirt off, and throw the 3071 and the mani on there instead. Then get her tuned just right, and cut me a copy of that map when my 3071 bolts up next year!! lol
 
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#35 · (Edited)
So, I've been working on the tune, and so far the closest to my 20 PSI targets is the last map I cut. Running the new Perrin Pro EBCS, I had to reduce wgdc by 13% from TPS 81.25-100, and from 3,500rpms - Redline. I attached an image of a 3rd gear pull. Note how much smoother the boost comes on and tapers off. I'm getting there...

I'm running really rich with the new map at the moment, but I'll take care of then once I get the wgdc dead on first. I'm making and holding solid boost now. The Perrin helps you run more boost without maxing your wastegate as much because "interrupt" mode reacts quicker and is a more direct method of controlling boost going to the WGA. So, boost is more controllable, and smoother. However, you have to lower wgdc because the Perrin Pro builds boost quicker and with LESS wgdc than the stocker set up in "bleed" mode (Note my WGDC never goes above 91 the whole time, even though I'm pushing 21+PSI). Note there is no spiking either with the new Perrin Pro ebcs when it's tuned right.

 

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#36 · (Edited)
DH of Boost Curve: Before Perrin Pro & After

Here's a pic of the boost before, with the stock ebcs in there. Boost curve (light blue line) is not smooth at all:





Now here's the graph of a DH log I took earlier with the Perrin Pro EBCS installed. You can see how smooth the boost curve is (light blue line). Boost comes on nice, peaks at 19.14 PSI, and tapers off a bit towards redline. Looks good to me! :cool:

 

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#37 ·
Looking good Douge... I tuned by boost targets as well and noticed that 2nd gear gets a little less boost than 3rd, and 3rd gets a little less than 4th. I'm thinking about increasing WGDC a little more and tweaking the per-gear boost comp. tables to adjust boost per gear. Has anyone tried these tables?

Here's a 2nd-4th gear run with FFS. Not a great run, but enough to get some data for boost (I'm currently targeting ~17 PSI):
White Line art Black Facial expression Line


Graph:
Oscilloscope Line Text Plot Slope


Lastly, I hate how this forum doesn't let you upload certain file types (e.g., csv, png)! :mad:
 
#38 · (Edited)
Looking good Douge... I tuned by boost targets as well and noticed that 2nd gear gets a little less boost than 3rd, and 3rd gets a little less than 4th. I'm thinking about increasing WGDC a little more and tweaking the per-gear boost comp. tables to adjust boost per gear. Has anyone tried these tables?

Here's a 2nd-4th gear run with FFS. Not a great run, but enough to get some data for boost (I'm currently targeting ~17 PSI):
View attachment 75332

Graph:
View attachment 75331

Lastly, I hate how this forum doesn't let you upload certain file types (e.g., csv, png)! :mad:
EDIT: I haven't touched the boost comps tables yet, but I don't think I need to. If you look before the ebcs stopped working, I was making plenty of boost in 1st gear. I'm holding like 20-21 now in 2nd gear+ (except in this log, of course! lol).

Thanks man. Yeah, I have a log here from today, where the Perrin stop working post shift, and boost dropped off to spring pressue... I was only holding like 13 PSI after my shift into second! Not sure what happened here just yet, but it's obvious the solenoid stopped working mid-shift, and boost took a nose dive and stayed at spring pressure. You can see the WGD% take a nose dive too as soon as I shift into second. Check this out:

 

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#40 ·
Doogie,
Take a look at your map, OL/WOT No Knock B, cell at 6500 rpms. The 9.928 value is a default/faulty value in the OTS maps and can't be changed and saved unless you have the latest version of ATR. This stupid-rich value causes all kinds of problems with OL/CL/OL transitions and AFRs. You gotta fix your tables....

You can also plainly see where the OL/WOT Knocking table values were applied to the 3rd 4th gear log when you got the KR. ECU is working just fine at this point, but your tables need work, OR you can just run my map....

Your fuel pump took a shit in your posted "datalog 14 EBCS". Look at your fuel pressure, it is dangerously low. It was still way too low after you lifted as well. It stayed in the 200s. Replace the fuel pump ASAP. The WGDC is way low, so the boost is likely "accurate" for conditions (EBCS is likely working at this point). Also look at your throttle value. It went from the standard max of 77.6(with DBW DC at 90%) to a solid 78. Never seen that value logged before. Look at your MAF volts during fuel pump shit time. Way low, so air was not moving through, likely due to low boost.

Your Load is low and LTFT is high (neg value at WOT shift) throughout because your MAF cal is off... You can't cal the MAF unless your fuel pressure is correct and it is NOT in that last log....

Damn Doogie, good luck to ya! Maybe you want to bring your car down here and leave it with me for a week or so to tune it up for you!? Oh, and leave a bag of cash too! Those fuel pumps are expensive!!! I like the KMD internals kit myself, but I hear that PTP is cutting some deal on their kit. Either one is better than whatever you're running now...
 
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#41 ·
the bitch of it is Doug has the cpe hpfp installed.
 
#42 · (Edited)
the bitch of it is Doug has the cpe hpfp installed.
I have the PTP Hitachi pump, aka PTP Internals, not the cpe pump brohams.

My fuel pressure was low because boost got cut off, that's all fool. Check out this log taken immediately before the one above that has steady boost the whole time. Fuel Pressure stays >1,730 PSI the entire pull through both gears. My fuel pump is fine. It dropped down to 200 in the log above when I put the clutch in, and held it in. My fuel pump reacts quickly as you start to touch the throttle.

EDIT: I copied my OL/WOT No KR "A" table into my "B" table, getting rid of that super rich 9.2x drooping down at 6,500spms, thank you. I'll keep an eye of fuel pressure, but I think it is fine. We'll see if the fuel table change helps straighten out the OL/WOT afrs.

 

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#43 ·
Damn, I missed the fuel pressure drop... that doesn't look good. It looks like you had it floored for another 2 seconds after the pressure dropped. I really hope it's not the pump, because I just got the PTP internals, shipped to a friend in AZ. I'm going there on vacation next month, so I should have the pump installed by mid-July. Keep us posted!
 
#44 · (Edited)
Running Spring Pressure, and fuel pump is quitting out too

Crap, yeah it looks like the fuel pump is on its way out, even though I've only had it for like 2 months. I attached an image of how low the fuel pressure dips. The Perrin stopped working yesterday, and I'm only holding spring pressure, which is about 13 PSI boost.

 

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#46 ·
Yeah, Jeff Perrin is trying to hook up a plug that will work for us. He thinks he has one that will work with our factory plug. He's sending me out one with the plug on it sometime next week. I'll have to check out the fuel pump and call PTP after the weekend. This sucks.

I'm also selling my CPE TIP. I picked up the Cobb TIP in the meantime and no longer need it. We shaved the tab off that caused a vacuum leak last time, so that would never happen again. I then put some RTV silicone epoxy over what was left of the base of the tab. There is no way this thing is ever gonna leak. I used it for less than 1 week!! $170 OBO SHIPPED!!! Here's the link:

http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-transmission/237377-brand-new-cpe-tip-sale.html
 
#47 · (Edited)
Waiting on a new Perrin Pro to come in from Perrin with a possible Mazdaspeed6 plug attached to it. We'll see how it goes next week once it comes in. I have to call PTP about the fuel pump on Monday as well.

ALSO: FOR SALE--> *LIKE NEW* CPE TIP (used 1 week), $170 OBO SHIPPED. Lower 48 only! Click on link in SIG \/ \/ \/
 
#48 ·
Waiting on a new Perrin Pro to come in from Perrin with a possible Mazdaspeed6 plug attached to it...
Cool, I'm glad you're getting a plug - it's the way it should be. One of the reasons why I got the Grimm was the plug. It fits perfectly and is easy to connect/disconnect. I think both the Grimm and the Perrin use a MAC valve, so they're probably very similar.

And let us know when you know more about the pump!
 
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