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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Sorry for delay. But I do some updates for you!
Since I hadn't installed the headlights for the customer since bad weather during last weekend. We have rescheduled to this weekend. However, I know some of you cannot wait anymore. So I open a new thread to keep you updated and share my suggestions about how to install headlights.

Step 1: Package
When you receive the package, please check out everything because it's shipped from overseas, no one knows what happened inside. But I can promise you, all items have been fully tested before sending out. You may see a hole in the plastic bag. The HID kit will be in the package as well. But adapters, fog lights and instructions may send you separately. Depends on what you ordered. I have asked my provider to reinforce the package and boost the shipping speed. It should be safe until you receive it. Usually, you will receive the package in two weeks. If you have been waiting over three weeks, please contact me asap!


Step 2: install HID bulbs
It's time to install HID now. The headlights support D2H 35W HID or H7 55W max bulbs. You are free to get any brand HIDs by yourselves. You only need two bulbs for headlights, because there are two LEDs on high beam position already.
Open the low beam door, take out two DRL power supplies and secure them inside of the headlights.


Next, remove the lock first. Then put the bulbs into the lens. Turn the lock and secure the bulbs. Make sure they are tight enough.



Step 3: install ballasts on the headlights
The ballasts are thin with industric shield power wires. They are heavy duty and anti high temperature. You are free to find a best way you like to organize them. Just make sure they are fixed.



Alright, you have preinstalled the HIDs. It may take you 30-40 minutes. Let me know if anyone has questions.
I will update the rest after weekend.
 

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Do the ballasts have to be INSIDE the headlights? I have them mine outside the headlights with zip ties. If the ballast goes bad, which it probably will considering the look of it, you would have to remove everything again. No offense, but those ballasts look kind of cheap. Then again, most people here already have their own hid kits, so we are mostly interested in the headlights.

Also, If you could post how to actually remove the headlights without taking off the bumper? You said you were going to show us an easier to remove them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Come on. It's just $50 hid kit. Good for most people. You can get you own HID no issue at all. And I'm trying to use LED bulbs instead of HID in the future. Will be easier than HID.

Alright, let's start to install the headlights. You need a Phillips screwdriver and some sockets.
Step1. remove all screws on the upper of the bumper.


Step2: remove screws on two sides of the bumper

Be careful, there is a small one on the bottom.


Step3: pull out the bumper

Take off that grey pieces, your new headlights will need them.
There are two screws on the side of the headlights. After you remove them and unplug the harness, you will be able to take off you old headlights.

Step4: install the new ones.
After you plug the harness back in, your headlights are good to go for basic functions. (low/high beam, parking lamp, turn signal)
For DRL, there is a control box in the box. You need to do a quick wiring. I will send another instruction to each customer about this.
A new GT was born last week.
 

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What's the price on these. I want the 16 headlights on my 14.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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One thing about aftermarket headlights, make sure they are DOT certified if you are going to run them in the US. Also, if the reflector isn't designed for LED or HID then you may still be ticketed for having the wrong light in the headlight case.
Head lights on cars are engineered to reflect the light from a specific source to where it needs to be on the road, down the road, to the side of the road, and above the road to illuminate overhead signs. There is a lot of science that goes into this. For example, when designing a light fixture to use with a H7 bulb, an engineer will look at where the filament is inside the bulb. This is where the light source comes from. The reflectors inside the light housing will direct that light to where it needs to go without blinding oncoming traffic, or the driver himself.
When the LED replacements first came out, they did not take into account this engineering. So when the LED bulb was placed in the housing, the light source was in a different place than the old halogen filament. The light was brighter, but it was shining in all the wrong places. If you have ever been blinded by someone running LED lights that were not engineered to be direct replacements for the halogen bulbs, this is what is happening. Now it gets to actually be dangerous, not just for the driver of on coming traffic, but for the drive himself. These lights look brighter because there is whiter/brighter light being dispersed directly in front of the vehicle. This brighter light makes the drivers pupils dilate and focus at a closer reference point, it is actually decreasing night vision down the road making it harder to see things before they are right on top of you. It also does not cast light to the side of the road as it should which limits visibility to what might be about to enter the roadway.
I'm not saying don't buy a specific product, just saying make sure that product is legal and engineered to use the light source you are putting in it.
There are a lot of good articles that explain this process on the web. Most importantly check your local laws so you don't get hassled.
 

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I used OPT7 HID 55watt from eBay because when I tried a LED bulbs the light beam scattered all over the place and it was dark meaning on the road very dangerous so that’s why I went with HID light kit I mounted the drivers on the strut towers with double-sided tape that comes with OPT7 kit I’m very happy with the results now back to the LED bulbs for my low beam I read that it’s best to use HID bulbs because of the projection lens on the low beam.

I used a LED bulbs on my high beam as you did and guys the warrantee that comes with the eBay kit comes with I think it’s three years which is a good deal.


Opt7 is the seller on eBay.
 

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One thing about aftermarket headlights, make sure they are DOT certified if you are going to run them in the US. Also, if the reflector isn't designed for LED or HID then you may still be ticketed for having the wrong light in the headlight case.
Head lights on cars are engineered to reflect the light from a specific source to where it needs to be on the road, down the road, to the side of the road, and above the road to illuminate overhead signs. There is a lot of science that goes into this. For example, when designing a light fixture to use with a H7 bulb, an engineer will look at where the filament is inside the bulb. This is where the light source comes from. The reflectors inside the light housing will direct that light to where it needs to go without blinding oncoming traffic, or the driver himself.
When the LED replacements first came out, they did not take into account this engineering. So when the LED bulb was placed in the housing, the light source was in a different place than the old halogen filament. The light was brighter, but it was shining in all the wrong places. If you have ever been blinded by someone running LED lights that were not engineered to be direct replacements for the halogen bulbs, this is what is happening. Now it gets to actually be dangerous, not just for the driver of on coming traffic, but for the drive himself. These lights look brighter because there is whiter/brighter light being dispersed directly in front of the vehicle. This brighter light makes the drivers pupils dilate and focus at a closer reference point, it is actually decreasing night vision down the road making it harder to see things before they are right on top of you. It also does not cast light to the side of the road as it should which limits visibility to what might be about to enter the roadway.
I'm not saying don't buy a specific product, just saying make sure that product is legal and engineered to use the light source you are putting in it.
There are a lot of good articles that explain this process on the web. Most importantly check your local laws so you don't get hassled.
You are correct, and only a few things to touch up on.

One thing about aftermarket headlights, make sure they are DOT certified if you are going to run them in the US.
The US DOT actually doesn't certify lights or create the requirements, what they have done is codified the SAE standards. Canada also has adopted these same standards. European countries have their own standards and all lights there must have the "E-Code" stamp on them. Most other countries will have either have their own or adopt one of these in some form or another.
These "certifications" are based on the type of bulb that is within it, so if you change from Halogen to HID or LED they are no longer type certified.


When designing a light fixture to use with a H7 bulb, an engineer will look at where the filament is inside the bulb... The reflectors inside the light housing will direct that light to where it needs to go...
When the LED replacements first came out, they did not take into account this engineering. So when the LED bulb was placed in the housing, the light source was in a different place than the old halogen filament.
It is not just the filament location, but also its other physical characteristics such as size, shape, length, and orientation. And it is not just the reflector that is based on this, but also the lens shape and any optics integrated within it. These 3 elements (reflector, source, lens) all work together as an assembly. Flaws or changes in any of these will more often than not have a negative impact on the light emitted.
Even dropping in some LongLife bulbs of the same type can have a negative effect; the filament often has a larger diameter and may bring in a "blur" factor. The opposite can also happen, and a bulb designed with a thinner diameter will often give a "sharper" beam pattern at the cost of a shortened life span. Needless to say; no 2 light sources can mimic each other in physical characteristics such as shape.

Tuning headlights is not much different than tuning an engine. Changing one element of the system (larger throttle body, higher wattage) cannot be fully appreciated until the other elements are tweaked for the change (higher fuel flow, larger wiring). And even if you do these compensations, can the rest of the assembly handle it- how much more heat is a 130W H1 going to generate and will it melt the plastic lenses?
 
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