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Headlight assembly issue

I recently installed new TYC headlight assemblies with Sylvania bulbs. I got them put in just fine and I'm not seeing any crossed wires at first look, but my high beams are not turning off.
It is happening on both sides, I can turn the lights on and off as needed, but the high beams will not switch into the low beams. Thoughts?
I've got he 2007 Mazda6 isport VE if that makes any difference.
 

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I own a 2006 Mazda 6 and I finally figured out how to replace a headlight bulb myself...owner's manual tells you to take it to the dealer...i didn't believe it the 1st time i tried to do it...after an hour of trying, i gave up and went to a dealer, who only charged me $12...NOT THIS TIME...anyway to replace the bulb on left side i turned the wheel to the right, unscrewed 5 or 6 plastic screws to release wheel well cover then reached up, turned the plastic cap to the left to expose metal snap pin (push forward then left) and bulb..disconnect wire off back of bulb, and bulb comes right out...put new bulb in, connect wire, push metal pin forward and right, TURN LIGHTS ON to see if it works...then put cap on and put wheel well cover back on with screws...takes about 10 mins and saves a trip to the dealer, time off work to do that and labor cost...
The dealer quoted you $12, was that for both headlights?
My daughter just got her first car, 2006 Mazda 6 sedan. The low beams are terrible. Any recommendations for which brand/type of H1 bulb to use for the most light output? Thanks in advance.
 

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Hello everyone, I have gotten the H1 bulbs to replace my low-beams. I've also gone over the existing explanations and some videos on how to do it.

Just a few questions:
1. Regarding the wire that connects power to the light. Is it possible to accidentally re-install it backwards or can it go only 1 way?
2. Same questions regarding the light bulbs themselves - it sounds like there's a risk of doing it backwards. Is this correct?
3. Is it possible to do this without removing that coolant container?
 

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It's been a long time since I replaced bulbs on mine (I think I have replaced them all at least once in the 12 years it was in use), but I believe the answer to 1 and 2 should be no. Hopefully someone else who has done it more recently will chime in here. On number 3, I was able to do mine without removing the coolant container but I have the V6 so not sure if that makes a difference. It was very tight on the passenger side so there was much cursing involved. :)


Scott
 

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So I replaced the bulbs on the first-gen Mazda6i 2007 with Silverstar ULTRAs. And HOLY CRAP was that an annoying procedure.

The amount of clearance and space to work is tiny, and you can barely see anything due to the angles. Fortunately I had help with someone else holding a shop light.

Both conceptually and mechanically it's a very simple procedure, which is greatly complicated by the tiny working space and poor ability to see what you're doing.

To answer my own questions:
1. Yes, the electrical connection plug can be attached upside down. Though it appears that the plug is the electrical cathode only, and the ground is that metal flange around the outside of the bulb. So I don't think anything bad would happen if I plugged it in upside down.

There is a small ridge on the plug that can be used to track the orientation. Also, the orientation is reversed for the Left / Right bulbs.

2. Putting in the bulb upside down would be almost impossible since that little metal clip wouldn't close.

3. Yes I did it without removing any other parts of the car for more clearance. But it was SUPER annoying.
 

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I've only replaced a front parking light bulb so far, but it was the most difficult bulb replacement I've ever done on any car. Very little room to work and you can't see anything without a mirror. While working on it I wondered a lot about how difficult it would be to replace the low beam bulbs WAY over in the corners.

My shop manual says it's possible to replace the four main bulbs without removing the headlight assemblies from the car, but it sure doesn't look easy.

Nice to know it CAN be done.
 

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It can be done and it really isn't too bad. The bad part is that the wire insulation often heats up and becomes brittle, leaving the bare wire exposed. To properly tape the wires, it is easier to remove the headlight assemblies. It involves removing the bumper cover, but that really only takes a few minutes and is less involved than you might think. It's only a dozen bolts or so and they zip right out and the bumper cover goes back on easily as well. I nhad no alignment issues.
 

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2006 V6 Grand Sport here, just ordered Osram CBI 6000K's from Amazon, $99.00. Finally found the courage to change the old Philips 4300K OEM's today. Thank you to the nice fellow on YouTube who posted the 20-minute video on how to take off the bumper and uninstall / reinstall headlight bulbs. It took me about 2 hours, but that's because it was just me and I don't have a jack to lift the car.

It was frustrating at times, but I took my time and made sure I set the screws and bolts aside in order.

I found it was easier for me to sit in a chair, then I could swivel the headlights out enough to access the HID lightbulbs. There's no wire clamp on these ones like the halogens, but there is a twist-lock ring on each one. It's tricky when you switch to the other side because the angle is different.

Made sure to test all the lights before reinstalling the bumper cover. I forgot to reinstall the dust cover on one side the first time, so I had to unbolt the headlight, reinstall the dust cover, and then secure the headlight again on that side.

They are a little brighter than the 11-year-old OEM's. I understand there is color shift. We will see how they are. Thank you again everyone who has posted advice on here.
 
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