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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread is based on my experiences installing the 3 engine mounts a few times, so this allows you to install your mounts with the greatest amount of ease possible, getting the job done quickly and accurately! Please make sure to reference the pictures for jack placement, this is crucial in lining up the bolts correctly.

Please see below post for Rear and Transmission mounts, with the Passenger mount a few posts below!



Motor Mounts Installation Instructions




Tools
  1. Breaker bar
  2. Deep well and regular socket sets, with 6" and 12" extensions (always use regular to torque, if possible)
  3. Rubber mallet or hammer
  4. Pry bar
  5. Ratcheting angled wrenches
  6. 2 jack stands, and wheel chocks or wood
  7. Torque wrench (capable of at least 100ft/lbs)
  8. Floor Jack (low profile ideal)

Setup
  1. Place wheel chocks or a solid piece of wood behind each of the rear tires, put car into gear, and pull e-brake up.
  2. Jack up ONLY the front of the car using the front jack point-see the pictures below for the jack point (this allows engine to lean backwards, greatly aiding in the rear mount install)



  3. Place one jack stand on both the driver and passenger side, in between the two metal bulges marked with red lines in the picture below. Once both jacks are in place, gently lower the floor jack, leaving the car on the two jack stands



  4. Disconnect the negative and positive battery terminals using a 10mm deep well socket or open ended wrench (negative first)


  5. Remove the battery tie down bracket using a 10mm socket (2 bolts)
  6. Remove the battery

  7. Remove the battery tray using a 10mm socket (2 bolts)



  8. Remove the under tray of engine using a 10mm socket (7 bolts)


  9. Support engine using a padded jack, or with a piece of wood in between the motor and jack, to avoid damage. Then, lift engine 1 inch to relieve pressure from engine mounts (see picture for jack placement)

**Jacking up car is only needed for rear mount- other mounts will require car to be level on the ground-under tray removed.
**If lowered, you may need to be on 4 jack stands to achieve a level car with access to the engine with your jack




Rear Engine Mount Removal

  1. At this point, you should be on 2 jack stands, with the engine supported using the floor jack (see the above picture for jack placement)
  2. Remove the lower bolt from the triangle bracket using a regular 17mm socket (breaker bar may be needed)
  3. Remove the rearward engine mount bolt using a regular 17mm socket
  4. Remove the engine mount, some wiggling and pulling may be required (use a crow bar or rubber mallet if stubborn)


Rear Engine Mount Installation
  1. To allow for easier install, use plyers or a crow bar to slightly bend back the two tabs on the engine mount bracket to allow for easier installation


  2. Hand-thread the rear bolt through the mount, leaving the mount hanging downwards
  3. Hand-thread the front bolt of the mount into position
  4. Tighten the lower triangle bolt to 85 ft/lbs using a regular socket
  5. Tighten the rear engine mount bolt to 85 ft/lbs using a regular socket


  6. Slowly lower the engine, support car at front jack point, then remove the 2 jack stands (Install under tray if not installing other mounts)

**Lifting the engine up or down to align the 2 bolts WILL be required. Slightly lift engine up and down, pushing it if needed to align the bolts.
**Do not try to force any bolt in using force, as this may damage threads.




Transmission Mount Removal

  1. Support engine using a padded jack, or with a piece of wood in between the motor and jack, to avoid damage. Then lift engine 1 inch to relieve pressure from engine mounts (see picture for jack placement)


  2. Slightly loosen, but do not remove the 17mm bolt/nut running through the OEM mount using a regular socket with 6" extension (2 turns of the bolt)


  3. Loosen the 4 14mm bolts 2 located on the top and side of the mount using a ratcheting angled wrench (use a hammer to tap the wrench to help break bolts loose if needed)



    Driver Side Rear



    Driver Side Front



    Top Bolts




  4. Remove the previously loosened 17mm bolt running through the OEM mount (slightly lifting or lowering the engine to line up the bolt for extraction WILL be required, do NOT force it through)
  5. Remove the 4 previously loosened 14mm bolts using the angled ratcheting wrench
  6. Remove the mount

**Removing the Fuse box is NOT required, but may help if you have large tools-3 10mm bolts/nut
See Jamie's instructions for more info on removing the fuse box. Please note my jack point is different, which makes my install guide easier: Link



Transmission Mount Installation

  1. Lift/lower engine as needed to align the 4 14mm bolts/align mount into place
  2. Hand tighten the 4 14 mm bolts
  3. Hand tighten the 17mm bolt running through the mount (lifting or lowering the mount to line up the bolt WILL be required, do not force it through)
  4. Tighten the 2 top bolts as much as possible with the ratcheting wrench (55ft/lbs is OEM spec)
  5. Tighten the two side bolts as much as possible with the ratcheting wrench (55ft/lbs is OEM spec)
  6. Lastly, tighten the main bolt running through the mount to 85 ft/lbs using a regular 17mm socket with 6" extension
  7. Slowly lower the engine/remove floor jack
  8. Install battery tray and battery tie down, gently torquing the 3 bolts to 10 ft/lb's, and 6 ft/lb's on the battery rod nut
  9. Install battery terminals, first the positive, then the negative



**Note** Lifting the engine up or down to align threads WILL be required. Do not try to force ANY bolt in, as this may damage your threads
**Note** Check torque on bolts during your next oil change, and tighten if necessary



Impressions at 10 miles:

With the mounts in street urethane, it added close to no vibrations into the cabin. The transmission is more audible, meaning you can now hear the gears spin-up, but this has gotten much quieter since driving just 10 miles. From past experiences, I expect the mounts to become very quiet, and I will update the thread with further input once the mounts are settled-in.

Shifting is amazing, I have never been able to shift into gear at WOT like this-there is now no chance of missing a gear, it is very crisp and clean. Additionally, the car is much more connected and crisp all-around, it feels like it is ready to take a beating anytime, anywhere.
 

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Awesome write up man! Hopefully ill be using this if I upgrade into a speed :D


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Awesome, thanks for including torque specs, need to tighten mine.
 

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Chris, the how-to guy. :) Nice job and thanks for taking the time to write this stuff down. Very helpful...
 

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Your car is so shiny. Damn winter. Are you running a bsd? Glad your liking the mounts I was curious about the vibes. Appreciate your hard work man
 

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I haven't been keeping up, but wasn't there a SURE-hate thread on MSF about how their mounts have been failing?

Either nice, nice write up. Will definitely be referring to this when doing the transmission mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I haven't been keeping up, but wasn't there a SURE-hate thread on MSF about how their mounts have been failing?

Either nice, nice write up. Will definitely be referring to this when doing the transmission mount.
There is a hate thread, but no mounts have failed. A few bushings have failed, and were swapped out using warranty, that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Passenger Mount Removal

  1. Support engine using a padded jack, or with a piece of wood in between the motor and jack, to avoid damage. Then, lift engine 1 inch to relieve pressure from the engine mounts

  2. Remove the engine ground from the engine joint bracket using a regular 10mm socket (circled below)
    Loosen all 3 of the 17mm nuts/bolt using a deep well socket with extension (breaker bar may be needed)


    Remove the mount's main 17mm bolt

  3. Remove the engine joint bracket by first removing the two 17 mm nuts, then lift engine until bracket becomes loose ~2inches





  4. Remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut securing the OEM engine mount to the frame using a 14mm socket with either a 6" or 12" extension as needed



  5. Remove the OEM Mount

**It is a tight fit with the socket/extensions, take care not to damage anything



Passenger Mount Installation

  1. Place the mount into position, aligning the two bolts onto the mount as much as possible, and the mount base through the single bolt (previously removed nut). The mount will not fit onto the threads at this point

  2. Secure the two 17mm nuts to the mount using a deep well socket. To do this, lift the engine slightly using the floor jack, then use a crow bar to push the engine towards the driver side. Go off/on on the crow bar, to "shake" it into place.


    **Do NOT use a socket until the threads are through 100%, or you will cause damage


  3. Tighten the two 17 mm nuts to 75 ft/lbs using a deep well socket

  4. Secure the mount to the frame. To do this, lower the engine until the mount comes into position with the bolt holes. You may need to push the mount in a certain direction to align the holes-use the crow bar if this is the case.

    Once aligned, first, hand tighten the two 14mm bolts and one nut, then tighten each to 55 ft/lbs




  5. Tighten the mount's main 19mm bolt to 65 ft/lbs. To do this, first, tighten using two 19mm wrenches on either side to make the bolt very snug.



    Loosen the electrical assembly
    Now, loosen the two 12mm bolts (circled below) using a socket with 12" extension and ratcheting wrench, to allow for a torque wrench to be used.



    Use a ratcheting wrench on the side bolt



    Use a regular 12mm socket with 6" extension on the nut



    Once the two bolts and one nut are off, gently move the assembly to align your torque wrench onto the mount's nut.


    While using a wrench to hold the nut, torque the bolt to 65 ft/lbs


    **Take care to not move the electrical assembly too much

    Now, re-install the 2 bolts and nut back into place

  6. Tighten the ground wire bolt onto the mount using a #5 allen key - tighten as much as possible (OEM spec is 100 ft/lbs)



  7. Slowly lower the engine/remove floor jack



**A magnet stick will be handy to get bolts during this install



Hope this helps folks out, good luck, and let me know if you have any questions :)
 

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I have the AWRs and found all three together, to be way too much vibe, but I found replacing the upper two and leaving the dogbone to be the best alternate route... Great shifts plenty of vibe, but more liveable overall...

Let everybody know long term how these mounts rate and hold up, I'm not going to MSf for any info..
 

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Thanks for sharing! I'm definitely going to be using this "How to" once I save up enough money for new mounts :)
 

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so if i read correctly.... RMM, TMM, and PMM? have you thought about doing a FMM too? i've been pretty interested in that mount to limit the motors rotational movement from the torque.
 

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so if i read correctly.... RMM, TMM, and PMM? have you thought about doing a FMM too? i've been pretty interested in that mount to limit the motors rotational movement from the torque.

Looks correct. All SURE road mounts too. (black are street, blue are track)

Has SURE taken care of their blowing up mount inserts? I'd rather have all the same which leaves us with SURE or AWR.

someone with a FMM chime in? I know it requires some modification to get in, does it kill ALL movement? Vibes?



As always, a professional write-up. I think your write-ups are getting more concise and more professional as you do each one. Nice pictures too. Thanks, as always!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so if i read correctly.... RMM, TMM, and PMM? have you thought about doing a FMM too? i've been pretty interested in that mount to limit the motors rotational movement from the torque.
The FMM is not a bolt-on install, it requires you to drill and fab your under tray, and well as a few oher minor things. I would never run one unless I was running the car at the drag strip, it adds a LOT of NVH.

Looks correct. All SURE road mounts too. (black are street, blue are track)

Has SURE taken care of their blowing up mount inserts? I'd rather have all the same which leaves us with SURE or AWR.

someone with a FMM chime in? I know it requires some modification to get in, does it kill ALL movement? Vibes?


As always, a professional write-up. I think your write-ups are getting more concise and more professional as you do each one. Nice pictures too. Thanks, as always!
Thanks, I only do it to help others out, brings me some joy in life hehe

Some folks had their bushings go bad on a few mounts, but it has by no means been widespread or an "issue". If anything was the happen, I have the lifetime warranty, which includes bushings, unlike most other vendors :)

Let me know if you guys have any questions about anything :cool:
 

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The FMM is not a bolt-on install, it requires you to drill and fab your under tray, and well as a few oher minor things. I would never run one unless I was running the car at the drag strip, it adds a LOT of NVH.
Ha thats funny. i thought i read pretty much the opposite! i thought that both the PMM and TMM added a decent amount of NVM. I hadnt heard that much about the FMM since not too many people run it I feel like. The few reviews i did read said not too much nvh but that is obviously very subjective. I knew it required drilling and fabbing but i still like the idea of a FMM due to the rotational force of our torque. i'm sure the other 3 mounts together would still be as good or better but i was actually worried about NVH of them lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ha thats funny. i thought i read pretty much the opposite! i thought that both the PMM and TMM added a decent amount of NVM. I hadnt heard that much about the FMM since not too many people run it I feel like. The few reviews i did read said not too much nvh but that is obviously very subjective. I knew it required drilling and fabbing but i still like the idea of a FMM due to the rotational force of our torque. i'm sure the other 3 mounts together would still be as good or better but i was actually worried about NVH of them lol!
After installing these 3 mounts I feel like the engine doesn't need anything else, it is VERY strong and held in place amazingly well under WOT.

The folks running the FMM are generally the "hardcore" guys, so their interpretation of a little NVH is generally a little different ;)
 

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Some folks had their bushings go bad on a few mounts, but it has by no means been widespread or an "issue". If anything was the happen, I have the lifetime warranty, which includes bushings, unlike most other vendors :)

Let me know if you guys have any questions about anything :cool:
yep a few people have had their bushings wear out. It is the nature of the beast as they are a poly bushing used to reduce vibrations of an engine. in time that friction creates wear and degradation of the bushing. All have been sent replacements when the bushings wore out.

The Guys on MSF either neglect to acknowledge that or are just trying to stir the pot. AWR have had bushings wear out as have CP-E. Most all companies have been very good about warrantying them out and replacing them from what I have seen.
 

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The folks running the FMM are generally the "hardcore" guys, so their interpretation of a little NVH is generally a little different ;)[/QUOTE]

too true.....running the TT FMM & JBR RMM and the ride is stiff as f*#$% and it feels completely different from the stock setup.

MWSpeed6 is running a similar setup, perhaps he can chime in as well.....

as a side note JBR just released their own over the w'end (TMM), PMM to come, looks solid as heck - love his products!

& good job on the post Chris, excellent how to!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
too true.....running the TT FMM & JBR RMM and the ride is stiff as f*#$% and it feels completely different from the stock setup.

MWSpeed6 is running a similar setup, perhaps he can chime in as well.....

as a side note JBR just released their own over the w'end (TMM), PMM to come, looks solid as heck - love his products!

& good job on the post Chris, excellent how to!
Thanks, I know this will help anyone upgrading mounts, including the JBR crowd, since Jamie's instructions reference the wrong jack point on the TMM at least, and that is the most important part of making the install smooooth.

I personally chose SURE since I wanted a lifetime warranty, and Jamie's mounts are always on the stiffer side...I couldn't handle his RMM alone lol :cool:
 

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The only engine mount I have is the TT front engine mount and I love it. There's vibes for sure, but I have a BSD too. I don't care anymore. My car is pretty loud, suspension is hard and it vibrates lol.
 
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