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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How to install aftermarket amplifier into 2003 Mazda 6, with the Bose stereo.
-- Before you start this project, please disconnect your battery before cutting ANY wires.

This thread will be for keeping your factory head unit (radio), by using a "Line Output Converter"

I decided to tackle this project to save money, keep my steering wheel controls, and also to write my own instructions like so.
Since there was not a simple, "How to" I made this for anyone who doesn't want to spend 10+ hours figuring this out.

Start by identifying where your factory Bose amplifier is, (under the passenger front seat). Remove the three screws holding it down, two in the front, one in the back (carpet will be covering these screws). With the factory amp movable, find the wire harness that enters into the amplifier. Here is a diagram of the harness
^ I hope that link works, and keeps working. If not just google 2003 mazda 6 bose amplifier wire diagram, and go to images.
(Blue, Yellow) (Red, White)
The wires you will need to identify primarily are the RF+/RF-, LF+/LF-
(I tapped into my front speakers, as forums said they receive more signal than the back, not sure if this is true) These wires are the ones that feed straight to your front speakers.

**If you remove your radio, and look at the back to see the wire harness, the wire colors will be completely different, as they change color when they output from the factory amplifier. It was easier to me to splice right next to the factory amp.

Get your "Line output converter", I bought a "Truconnext" from BestBuy for $15.
Read the label on the line output converter, it will tell you the designated RF+/RF-, LF+/LF-
Go back to your factory amplifier, and get the wire harness going into it. Peel back the tape that covers the wires, as far down as you can. You'll need as much space as possible.
Identify the BLUE/YELLOW, RED/WHITE wires, these will be the output wires going into the speakers (two wires into each speaker). Carefully cut each of these 4 wires (Blue/Yellow, Red/ White) and splice your Line Output Converter correctly on these wires. Be careful not to cut to close to the amp plug, as the wires are tight, and don't have any slack for pulling more.
-Congratulations, that was the most difficult part.

Continue to wire the rest of the required amp wires as you like, here is how I did.

The "line output converter" should have your RCA wire inputs, connect your RCA plugs.

Connect your power able to your positive battery terminal, run it to where you'll want your amp. I ran mine down the driver's side.

The remote turn on wire, it can be spliced into a cable that powers on the radio as the car is turned on.
I used a multi fuse connector, and was able to connect to the air conditioning fuse, at the inside fuse box. (left of the brake and gas pedals)

Ground your amp to the floor of the trunk. The "Kicker" wiring kit I bought, the ground cable connector wouldnt fit through the bolts holding down the seats (the easiest place to ground) I placed my own rig of a bolt into the floor of the trunk. I don't recommend this, but I had no problems. Be sure to sand the paint off where you'll want your ground cable to touch the metal for a more promising connection.

Now you can plug your car battery back in. Attach all the wires you need for your amplifier after connecting your battery.

:laugh2: I hope this guide helped you. I spent alot of time researching everything i just listed. I hope it saves you time so you can connect your amp and subwoofers faster.

I don't write guides much at all, so I hope this was easily read-able.
Thanks for reading!

Premium Member
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I don't write guides much at all, so I hope this was easily read-able.
Thanks for reading!
Thanks for you contribution and welcome to forum.

By far not the worst OEM system I've heard (coming from a Chrysler with the factory Infinity) but definitely worth while to upgrade the weakest link (the speakers/amp).

You'll find the head unit is fairly decent (hint: if you pull a headunit from a non-Bose car, you'll gain a "mid" adjustment in the EQ). This option won't work with the Bose amp but if you bypassed it already, it might be a worthwhile investment.
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