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QUOTE (Totally Custom Audio @ Aug 10 2009, 08:15 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1590506
I'm only noticing one thing I don't like about this post and not sure if it was mentioned before or not, but where is your fuse on your main power line? You should have a fuse 12-18" from the battery.

Also to try and answer some questions...
1. Running your wires to the trunk/hatch is particularly a preference, I've done it both way, usually it is wires coming from the bottom because of where the amp is normally mounted, either to back of seat, on the sub box, or to an amp rack. But occassionally they are run from the top because of wanting to mount the amp to the trunk lid.

2. If you have a quality amp I stay away from the LOC. But if you are thinking about switching amps at some point in the future to maybe one that doesn't have a High Level Speaker Input might as well put the LOC in the first time, so save less work later. As far as LOC...I only use Dave Navone LOCs. They are high quality and not very pricey, with many options. Just remember gain does not equal bass boost. You wanna set the gain on the AMP/LOC using a multimeter and a test CD, it's to match the voltage of the headunit to the amp.

3. Not sure on the newer models. But with the early models of the 6 the front speaker had a lot better signal and much flatter than the rears, so most people splice the fronts. I've personally done both and depending on how much power you are gonna be running, it's not an issue.

4. You wanna try to keep your signal before the amp and loc generally flat since you are pulling the signal from speaker wires, so it's best to use either the amp's gain/eq/boost, or one through the LOC.

5. Everything is possible...have heard anything...so just wait, be patient, and most of all...hope...lol[/b]

I definitely have a fuse, about 4" from the battery, that wouldn't be good.

Ill try out just splicing off of the front for now, I think ill open up the dash and go from there. I'll let you know how that works.

I think im also going to just use Cat5 since it has paired wiring, then I'll only have one wire to thread down the side.


does anyone have a picture of the amp installed on the top of the trunk?




and How is the sound in the Mazda 6? How badly am i going to need Dynamat?
 

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QUOTE (Svenson14 @ Aug 10 2009, 02:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1590575
I definitely have a fuse, about 4" from the battery, that wouldn't be good.
Ill try out just splicing off of the front for now, I think ill open up the dash and go from there. I'll let you know how that works.
I think im also going to just use Cat5 since it has paired wiring, then I'll only have one wire to thread down the side.
does anyone have a picture of the amp installed on the top of the trunk?
and How is the sound in the Mazda 6? How badly am i going to need Dynamat?[/b]
If you are going to the trouble of installing everything, might as well do it right so you don't have problems. Cat5 wire gauge isn't very big and you are gonna be looking at major problems with heat, due to the power not being able to go through the wire. Cause whatever wattage can't fit through the wire gets lost in the form of heat, and that heat adds up and eventually causes fire...Improper wire size is the main cause of aftermarket stereo fires in cares, that and bad splices or other stuff.

The sound in the 6 isn't as bad as a lot of other vehicles I've installed into, but compared to the luxury cars, it isn't the greatest either. I always recommend if you can afford it, definately sound deaden...it will be much worth it in terms of sound quality and SPL, if that is a desire.

Also I usually recommend either RAAMmat or eDEAD compared to dynamat...It usually 50% cheaper if not more and you have more installing options (i.e. Thickness levels, brush-on deadener, foam matting, etc.)
 

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QUOTE (Totally Custom Audio @ Aug 12 2009, 01:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1591243
If you are going to the trouble of installing everything, might as well do it right so you don't have problems. Cat5 wire gauge isn't very big and you are gonna be looking at major problems with heat, due to the power not being able to go through the wire. Cause whatever wattage can't fit through the wire gets lost in the form of heat, and that heat adds up and eventually causes fire...Improper wire size is the main cause of aftermarket stereo fires in cares, that and bad splices or other stuff.

The sound in the 6 isn't as bad as a lot of other vehicles I've installed into, but compared to the luxury cars, it isn't the greatest either. I always recommend if you can afford it, definately sound deaden...it will be much worth it in terms of sound quality and SPL, if that is a desire.

Also I usually recommend either RAAMmat or eDEAD compared to dynamat...It usually 50% cheaper if not more and you have more installing options (i.e. Thickness levels, brush-on deadener, foam matting, etc.)[/b]

well to clarify, Im using 3 awg for the power and Ground. Im definetly not using Cat 5 for that, I'll be using Cat5 for the speaker wire spliced of the front speakers for my speaker level input (instead of using a LOC and the component cable)


As for insulating, ill lookin into raammat and edead, ill wait of course to see if i need it first or not.
 

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Done! installed Amp and Sub unit today, it Sounds GREAT, and I didnt need a LOC, just spliced into the front speaker wires (wasnt the easiest), and followed the directions for the metra kit to remove the dash.
the hardest part was trying to find the screw that i dropped down during the reinstall of the dash.




 

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Thanks to this guide and this chart http://www.mazdaspeed.pl/upload/Mazda6Wiring.pdf I was able to put my subs in this afternoon. The coat hanger technique for getting through the firewall is definitely the way to go- I had to actually use a razorblade and cut a slit in the rubber grommit so my power cable could fit through.. there was absolutely no extra room. For being my first real amp install, it went smooth enough. Definitely the hardest part was popping the cupholders & dash off.. the cupholders came off in a few minutes but I was afraid of breaking the dash so it took a bit longer. I picked up some automatic wire splicers at radio shack (looked like this https://www.firstchoicemarine.com/p-19714-ancor-wire-splicers-14-18-ga-4-230615.aspx ).. I would definitely recommend these if you aren't exactly savvy with electrical stuff like me. I was able to tap my remote wire into the 12v and tap my LOC into the speaker wire very easily, and a lot cleaner than stripping wire, trying to solder, wrapping it up with tape, etc.

I haven't gotten the wires hidden yet and I'm waiting on the Xcarlink ipod adaptor to get here, so the stereo isn't locked back in, but all in all everything works great.
 

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used this guide firmly 08 mazda 6, worked great . Thanks a lot !! If anyone tells u this won't sound good or the bass isn't enough, they don't know what they are talking about .. the Bass is insane !! it may not be "competition" quality, but otherwise.. it's more than enough .. don't be discouraged, this is easy.. my local car audio
shop wanted $225 to do it for me . the LOC cost me $30, the wires another $80, and that's all !! a few hours of messing with the stereo and a long the way I learned a lot .. hardest part was getting the power cable past the firewall, but if u take ur battery out , get a clothes hanger
and from under the hood, poke through next to the bundle of wires, it's not that bad ...

here's a link to another site with more pictures for
how to take out the head unit : Car Stereo Fitting | Car Stereo Removal | Remove Car Stereo Advice | Fit Car Stereo Help
 

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Hello,
I'm really new here and not really familiar with cars as much.
have couple of questions about hooking up my sub.

I installed everything already. except don't know from where do i connect black and red wires to my amp? (i have some outlet on the back of the trunk, but it has 4 wires - thicker black, thicker blue and red, thinner brown, thinner black and red. But seems like it doesn't work.
Just wondering if it's for sub-woofers at all? Or i need to run some special wires from HU?
 

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I installed everything already. except don't know from where do i connect black and red wires to my amp? (i have some outlet on the back of the trunk, but it has 4 wires - thicker black, thicker blue and red, thinner brown, thinner black and red. But seems like it doesn't work.
Just wondering if it's for sub-woofers at all? Or i need to run some special wires from HU?
Sounds like you have the Bose system, correct?
 

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Could anyone help me? I have a mazda atenza 2003 in New Zealand. Mine seems to be a little bit different to the one in this thread. For eg: my battery is on the left hand side of the engine bay, and there is an ac unit in front of the passenger seat blocking the grommet. How do I thread a wire through the firewall? I can just reach the grommet in the engine bay, and cant see the other side as it comes out behind the ac.
 

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Drill a hole. Clean and paint the edge. Purchase a rubber grommet to insulate and secure or fill around the wire with Black silicone RTV. I would wrap a few pieces of heavy cloth tape (Gorilla) or heat shrink where the wire crosses the metal firewall.
 
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