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will this work for an 08'?...w/o reading the manual i tried takin the H/O out...wouldnt budge
 

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QUOTE (Angel120 @ Jun 4 2008, 12:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1362107
LOL @ the end of question #2. First off, welcome, Daniel! Even though this probably wasn't your first post..

Anyway, a Line-Out Converter is needed to hook up the RCA's from the headunit to the amp. The reason is because if you tap the RCA's directly into the front speakers, you won't get as much of a powerful sound, so using the LOC, you'll get a small boost. Of course, this is my own ass-backwards logic, but I'm pretty sure my explanation is close enough. Either way, the LOC is definitely needed.

If you, or anyone else, have any more questions, please do not hesitate to post them on here! I just wish this thread would get stickied..[/b]
Haha, thanks for the welcome. I've had the 6 for about 3 weeks but I'm not new to forums in general.

Where can I pick up a good LOC for my application? I mean, I'm only pushing like 150 Watts absolute max, so no need for something of extreme quality or price. And how big a unit is this LOC? My amp is pretty small and I'm thinking of just mounting it under one of the front seats. I haven't looked yet but I'm thinking passenger side because of the power driver seat, might be less room there. Would be a much cleaner install if I can stick everything under the seat. Thanks!

Oh and by the way I vote for a Sticky as well. It took me a while of searching before I found it when a sticky would have been in front of my face at the very beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
QUOTE
will this work for an 08'?...w/o reading the manual i tried takin the H/U out...wouldnt budge[/b]
The HU removal is different for the 06 and beyond, but the rest of the instructions still apply to you.

QUOTE
Haha, thanks for the welcome. I've had the 6 for about 3 weeks but I'm not new to forums in general.

Where can I pick up a good LOC for my application? I mean, I'm only pushing like 150 Watts absolute max, so no need for something of extreme quality or price. And how big a unit is this LOC? My amp is pretty small and I'm thinking of just mounting it under one of the front seats. I haven't looked yet but I'm thinking passenger side because of the power driver seat, might be less room there. Would be a much cleaner install if I can stick everything under the seat. Thanks!

Oh and by the way I vote for a Sticky as well. It took me a while of searching before I found it when a sticky would have been in front of my face at the very beginning.[/b]
Google "NE-7V LOC", and you'll find it. The LOC itself isn't very big, it'll fit in the palm of your hand. It's a little bulky, but it'll work.

And thanks! Maybe the mods will notice sooner or later.. ::yesnod::
 

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Hey! Got her all wired up yesterday. The instructions were great, only thing that was tough and scary was removing the head unit, lol. There's nothing I hate more than pulling on expensive plastic pieces not knowing what's gonna happen. Anyway, I couldn't wait to order a LOC online so I went and picked up Stinger's equivalent. She booms now! And the best par is I was able to fit the Amp under the passenger seat. Here's what I did different.

When tapping into the 12V at the cig lighter, you can simply route that wire back inside the console and then down through the plastic trim to under the passenger seat. The ground is the same thing, I hooked it up to one of the hand brake bracket bolts. Next thing is I didn't touch anything on the drivers side. I ran everything from the dash (power and RCA'S) under the passenger front kick plate, and then under the seat. I decided to just leave the LOC inside near where the bolt for the head unit is, it's pretty snug in there. The speaker wires though I had to run under the rear passenger kick plate and under the back seats to the trunk. Finished everything off with a little wire loom in the engine bay and that's it. Now I just have to find a way to mount the amp under the seat so it will stay there and not move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thanks for the compliments. However, I do think there is a mistake.
It seems as if you put the power and signal cables on the same side (passenger's side). I know this was easier to do, but if you put the 2 cables next to each other, regardless of how shielded they are, you will get interference.
 

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Yeah I realize that, and thought about it, but with such a small setup, I don't think there is much interference. If I find it bad I could always bring the RCA's down the head unit and then down the console same as where my remote is.
 

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I HAVE JUST RECENTLY BOUGHT A O7 6 WITH THE BOSE HOWEVER THIS SOUND SYSTEM JUST ISNT ENOUGH FOR ME. I WAS WONDERING IF THESE HOW TO IS THE SAME FOR ME AND WOUDLNT INTERFER WITH THE BOSE BUT JUST AD MORE SUB POWER
 

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hey i got a few questions i was wondering how to instal blue headlights... can someone give me the right kind of blue lights and how to assemble them?thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
QUOTE (nevermisz14 @ Jun 29 2008, 03:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1379405
hey i got a few questions i was wondering how to instal blue headlights... can someone give me the right kind of blue lights and how to assemble them?thanks[/b]
Don't threadjack, please. This topic is about adding a sub to the non-bose headunit, not about the bose headunit, and certainly not about "blue headlights". PM someone, search, or post a new topic in the appropriate section.
 

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Sup im having a bit of trouble with the LOC and the wires i need to cut them into in your post you said you need a red and white wire for left the reality is that i have 2 sets of red and white and dont have blue and yellow for the right wires on my radio harness if i had to guess both sets of red and white are for the left and right. if you have any idea about this please help im stuck
 

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QUOTE (Angel120 @ Apr 5 2007, 10:15 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=974641
I noticed that we're lacking a how to on installing subs and amps, and we usually get millions of questions about LOCs and whatnot, soooooo, I took it upon myself to write up a how-to. Enjoy.

Okay, so first things’ first. Take your car apart.

1) Remove the battery completely using a 10mm wrench. Remove the support bar and the 2 cables on the poles, and put it in a safe place.

2) Remove the center console. There are plenty of writeups on this, but I’ll go over it quickly. Remove the cup holders, remove the shift plate, then remove the headunit (unplug everything).

3) Remove the glove box.

4) Take the kick panels off (just pull it) on the driver’s and passenger’s side.

5) Pull up all four door sills. Just pull them upwards, they might feel like they’re gonna break, but they won’t.


6) Put your backseat down.

Now, start with the power cable for your amp. Cut off a piece of a coat hanger, and tape it to the power cable so it looks like this;

[attachment=22051:power_Ca...Taped_Up.jpg]

Then push it through the rubber grommet in the engine bay that is hidden behind the battery.

[attachment=22053:power_Ca..._Grommet.JPG]



Don’t push it through where the rest of the wires are, there should be a soft gap between the neck of the grommet and the firewall. (My power cable is the silver one)
(Alternate description):


[attachment=22054:power_Ca...rommet_2.JPG]

Now, fish the whole cable through, but leave enough in the engine bay so it can be connected to the + terminal on the battery. I’d suggest putting the battery back on now, so you can still fix the length of the cable.

I have mine hooked up like this;

[attachment=22055:power_Ca..._on_Batt.JPG]

I’d also suggest snipping a little bit of the terminal cover like this;

[attachment=22056:power_Ca...n_Batt_2.JPG]



Run the power cable all the way to the trunk, making sure to tuck it underneath the plastic cover at the bottom of the b-pillar. Don’t worry too much about making it all perfect now, you can save that for later.



Next is to set up the remote turn-on lead. You can either tap it into the +12v going to the radio (so the amp only turns on w/ the radio), or you can have it tapped into the cig lighter. I chose the cig lighter, since it was easier. I BELIEVE that the +12v wire is the orange wire in the radio harness, but don’t hold me to it.

Either way you choose, make sure you put a fuse within 6 inches from the cig lighter.

The + wire on the cig lighter is the blue one, by the way.

[attachment=22057:Remote_Turn_On_2.JPG]

Fish the cable from there to the driver’s side like so;

[attachment=22058:Remote_Turn_On_1.JPG]

Then run it to the trunk (again, don’t worry too much about length, you’re not finished yet.









Now, the Line Out Converter. I have the NE-7V, and I had NO IDEA that my amp came with one also (Profile AP700M). What I did was extend the wires coming from the LOC using wires that had similar colors to the radio harness. Anyways, the 4 wires we need to tap into are towards the bottom of the harness, so you’re gonna have to turn it over;

[attachment=22059:LOC_Wiring_4.JPG]

Here are the wires, and what they are;

Front Left +: RED

Front Left –: WHITE

Front Right +: BLUE

Front Right -: YELLOW



My method of doing this was to just take wire cutters, bite into the wire, wiggle it so the insulation separates (careful not to bite THROUGH the wire), go down ½ an inch, bite again, and then use a razor blade to slice off the part of the insulation that was just separated (learned that from watching the guy install my alarm).

Once you have the LOC wired up, plug in your RCA cables, and tuck everything behind the bracket that the radio sits on. Fish the RCA cables through the glove box’s spot, down the kick panel spot, and send it to the trunk.

[attachment=22060:RCA_Cable_1.JPG]




Now its time to worry about tucking the wires away, and getting the optimal length. Personally, I thought it was better to have the sub and amp already placed in the trunk, so I can see how much of the cables I need to show. In order to get the cables to be perfectly hidden, you’re gonna have to shove your hands in the side bolsters of the back seat and fish it through. Unfortunately, I don’t have a pic of this, but it’s not that hard. This is how my cables came out;

Front, driver’s side; (you can see the power, remote turn on, and remote volume cables)

[attachment=22061:power_Ca..._Sills_2.JPG]

Rear, same side, same cables;

[attachment=22062:power_Ca..._Sills_1.JPG]



You can see the power cables coming into the trunk here;

[attachment=22063:Trunk_Cables_2.JPG]

[attachment=22064:Trunk_Cables_3.JPG]

And the RCA cable;

[attachment=22065:Trunk_Cables_1.JPG]


Once you have all of these cables hooked up to your amp, its now time to ground it. I found a great ground spot here, since there was already a hole that was just asking for a bolt. Sand it, and you're good; [attachment=22072:Ground_Cable_1.JPG]
[attachment=22073:Ground_Cable_2.JPG]

I'd suggest covering all that up with some electrical tape, cuz when I was working on it, I saw a few sparks fly around… heh..



So, after you've grounded your amp, wire up your new sub(s), and enjoy.

Here are a few shots of my setup;

[attachment=22074:Wired_Up_Amp_1.JPG]

Sub remote;

[attachment=22075:Sub_Remote_1.JPG]

[attachment=22076:Sub_Remote_2.JPG]



On a side note; what is this? I saw this when I was setting up my sub remote. That switch I'm holding is a blank dummy switch, and the molex connector goes into nothing..

[attachment=22077:What_is_this.JPG][/b]
 

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I vote for sticky!! This is really gonna help me when I get my amp and sub.
 

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QUOTE (g-spot @ May 15 2008, 11:57 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1348350
Here's how I would say this: from the inside of the car, just slightly higher and to the left of the brake pedal there's a large grommet with a bunch of cables. push a wire hanger between the rubber grommet and the metal firewall. You really have to push hard to get it through there. Once through I taped my 4awg power cable on the engine side of the firewall and then used some pliers on the interior to pull the cable back through. Let me say this again, this is very tight, but as long as you tape a good 4-6" of the power cable around the coat hanger it should hold as you pull the cable through.[/b]
Not to criticize this post, but I've always protected the power wire from rubbing against the metal firewall, because if it eventually wears through and touches you've got a short ...and hopefully a fuse. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
QUOTE (shredded @ Oct 18 2008, 01:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1461189
Not to criticize this post, but I've always protected the power wire from rubbing against the metal firewall, because if it eventually wears through and touches you've got a short ...and hopefully a fuse. ;)[/b]
I know what you mean, and I was initially concerned about that as well. But, my power cable is actually being protected by the rubber grommet, so no rubbing is possible.
 
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