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I noticed that we're lacking a how to on installing subs and amps, and we usually get millions of questions about LOCs and whatnot, soooooo, I took it upon myself to write up a how-to. Enjoy.

Okay, so first things’ first. Take your car apart.

1) Remove the battery completely using a 10mm wrench. Remove the support bar and the 2 cables on the poles, and put it in a safe place.

2) Remove the center console. There are plenty of writeups on this, but I’ll go over it quickly. Remove the cup holders, remove the shift plate, then remove the headunit (unplug everything).

3) Remove the glove box.

4) Take the kick panels off (just pull it) on the driver’s and passenger’s side.

5) Pull up all four door sills. Just pull them upwards, they might feel like they’re gonna break, but they won’t.


6) Put your backseat down.

Now, start with the power cable for your amp. Cut off a piece of a coat hanger, and tape it to the power cable so it looks like this;

[attachment=22051:power_Ca...Taped_Up.jpg]

Then push it through the rubber grommet in the engine bay that is hidden behind the battery.

[attachment=22053:power_Ca..._Grommet.JPG]



Don’t push it through where the rest of the wires are, there should be a soft gap between the neck of the grommet and the firewall. (My power cable is the silver one)
(Alternate description):
Here's how I would say this: from the inside of the car, just slightly higher and to the left of the brake pedal there's a large grommet with a bunch of cables. push a wire hanger between the rubber grommet and the metal firewall. You really have to push hard to get it through there. Once through I taped my 4awg power cable on the engine side of the firewall and then used some pliers on the interior to pull the cable back through. Let me say this again, this is very tight, but as long as you tape a good 4-6" of the power cable around the coat hanger it should hold as you pull the cable through.[/b]
[attachment=22054:power_Ca...rommet_2.JPG]

Now, fish the whole cable through, but leave enough in the engine bay so it can be connected to the + terminal on the battery. I’d suggest putting the battery back on now, so you can still fix the length of the cable.

I have mine hooked up like this;

[attachment=22055:power_Ca..._on_Batt.JPG]

I’d also suggest snipping a little bit of the terminal cover like this;

[attachment=22056:power_Ca...n_Batt_2.JPG]



Run the power cable all the way to the trunk, making sure to tuck it underneath the plastic cover at the bottom of the b-pillar. Don’t worry too much about making it all perfect now, you can save that for later.



Next is to set up the remote turn-on lead. You can either tap it into the +12v going to the radio (so the amp only turns on w/ the radio), or you can have it tapped into the cig lighter. I chose the cig lighter, since it was easier. I BELIEVE that the +12v wire is the orange wire in the radio harness, but don’t hold me to it.

Either way you choose, make sure you put a fuse within 6 inches from the cig lighter.

The + wire on the cig lighter is the blue one, by the way.

[attachment=22057:Remote_Turn_On_2.JPG]

Fish the cable from there to the driver’s side like so;

[attachment=22058:Remote_Turn_On_1.JPG]

Then run it to the trunk (again, don’t worry too much about length, you’re not finished yet.









Now, the Line Out Converter. I have the NE-7V, and I had NO IDEA that my amp came with one also (Profile AP700M). What I did was extend the wires coming from the LOC using wires that had similar colors to the radio harness. Anyways, the 4 wires we need to tap into are towards the bottom of the harness, so you’re gonna have to turn it over;

[attachment=22059:LOC_Wiring_4.JPG]

Here are the wires, and what they are;

Front Left +: RED

Front Left –: WHITE

Front Right +: BLUE

Front Right -: YELLOW



My method of doing this was to just take wire cutters, bite into the wire, wiggle it so the insulation separates (careful not to bite THROUGH the wire), go down ½ an inch, bite again, and then use a razor blade to slice off the part of the insulation that was just separated (learned that from watching the guy install my alarm).

Once you have the LOC wired up, plug in your RCA cables, and tuck everything behind the bracket that the radio sits on. Fish the RCA cables through the glove box’s spot, down the kick panel spot, and send it to the trunk.

[attachment=22060:RCA_Cable_1.JPG]




Now its time to worry about tucking the wires away, and getting the optimal length. Personally, I thought it was better to have the sub and amp already placed in the trunk, so I can see how much of the cables I need to show. In order to get the cables to be perfectly hidden, you’re gonna have to shove your hands in the side bolsters of the back seat and fish it through. Unfortunately, I don’t have a pic of this, but it’s not that hard. This is how my cables came out;

Front, driver’s side; (you can see the power, remote turn on, and remote volume cables)

[attachment=22061:power_Ca..._Sills_2.JPG]

Rear, same side, same cables;

[attachment=22062:power_Ca..._Sills_1.JPG]



You can see the power cables coming into the trunk here;

[attachment=22063:Trunk_Cables_2.JPG]

[attachment=22064:Trunk_Cables_3.JPG]

And the RCA cable;

[attachment=22065:Trunk_Cables_1.JPG]


Once you have all of these cables hooked up to your amp, its now time to ground it. I found a great ground spot here, since there was already a hole that was just asking for a bolt. Sand it, and you're good; [attachment=22072:Ground_Cable_1.JPG]
[attachment=22073:Ground_Cable_2.JPG]

I'd suggest covering all that up with some electrical tape, cuz when I was working on it, I saw a few sparks fly around… heh..



So, after you've grounded your amp, wire up your new sub(s), and enjoy.

Here are a few shots of my setup;

[attachment=22074:Wired_Up_Amp_1.JPG]

Sub remote;

[attachment=22075:Sub_Remote_1.JPG]

[attachment=22076:Sub_Remote_2.JPG]



On a side note; what is this? I saw this when I was setting up my sub remote. That switch I'm holding is a blank dummy switch, and the molex connector goes into nothing..

[attachment=22077:What_is_this.JPG]
 

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Great Write-Up...

I was wondering the same thing about what the dummy switch is. I noticed that when I installed my bass knob also. Can't seem to locate where it goes, and nobody from mazda could tell me either.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the compliment. Maybe this will get stickied/pinned/whatever?

I'm gonna fix up the nest of wires when school's over, cuz looking at those pics, my trunk doesn't look so neat. On a side note, I've noticed that it's kinda hard to actually hear my subs, unless I put my backseat down.. Any advice on that?

And, I'm guessing that's the connector for the TCS switch??

Keep the comments coming.
 

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Nice write-up and a must for those who half-ass'd the job the first time. (ME)
 

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Nice writeup. this will help a ton tomorrow.
 

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I've noticed that it's kinda hard to actually hear my subs, unless I put my backseat down.. Any advice on that?[/b]
good write up :thumbup:

What's the rms of your amp and subs?? maybe you just need a bigger setup or you just need to start tunning the gain and the bass boost knobs on your amp. My setup is a 600 watts rms amp which run 2 10" thta push 200watts rms each, so my whole setup was 400 watts and i'm slowing going deaf cuz of it :p it shakes the car really good. I connected my LOC to the rear speakers thou, I've heard that it's better to connect it to the front ones, but I was short in wires :p
 

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Discussion Starter #8
good write up :thumbup:

What's the rms of your amp and subs?? maybe you just need a bigger setup or you just need to start tunning the gain and the bass boost knobs on your amp. My setup is a 600 watts rms amp which run 2 10" thta push 200watts rms each, so my whole setup was 400 watts and i'm slowing going deaf cuz of it :p it shakes the car really good. I connected my LOC to the rear speakers thou, I've heard that it's better to connect it to the front ones, but I was short in wires :p[/b]

RMS on the subs, I have no idea, they were free. I don't see any sort of label on them stating what the RMS is, but it's not a major concern for me. My amp, I believe, is 350W RMS, 700W peak. They're LOUD as hell when I have the seats down, but sound a little muddy when the seats are up, and more felt than heard from the driver's seat. If I'm sitting in the backseat, they sound amazing. It probably has to do w/ my tuning though, so I'll have my friend help me out with that.
 

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RMS on the subs, I have no idea, they were free. I don't see any sort of label on them stating what the RMS is, but it's not a major concern for me. My amp, I believe, is 350W RMS, 700W peak. They're LOUD as hell when I have the seats down, but sound a little muddy when the seats are up, and more felt than heard from the driver's seat. If I'm sitting in the backseat, they sound amazing. It probably has to do w/ my tuning though, so I'll have my friend help me out with that.[/b]
Looking at your pictures I noticed you have your subs facing the seats, isn't it better to have the subs facing into the trunk so you get better sound with the seats up?
 

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Long time bump....

Yes, it is better to have them not facing the seat. Facing the back is almost always better.

Couple of things to criticize (in a good way).

That power wire is tiny! Always make sure that the power wire is larger than what you need. 4 Gauge is sufficient for most, above 1000W and you will want 2 Gauge or larger.

Make sure to put a fuse in the front by the battery on the power wire! The remote wire isn't a big deal to have a fuse, but the power wire is a HUGE deal.

There is also a small plastic white/clear cap that is about in the middle of the drivers floor fairly high up. Perfect to take out, and drill though. I was not real keen on poking anything super large hole wise on my wire grommet. Don't want to kill those wires!

Lastly, don't ever mount an amplifier on a sub box. It is just asking for a fire. They say right on them usually don't mount to anything subject to excessive vibrations... AKA sub boxes. I mounted mine to the back of my seat.

Otherwise, awesome write-up! I should post some pictures of my install up here. Need to get my camera first... It's in the mail!
 

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Long time bump....

Yes, it is better to have them not facing the seat. Facing the back is almost always better.[/b]
Yeah, didn't know that til I posted about it lol. It's been looooooooong since fixed though.
Couple of things to criticize (in a good way).[/b]
D'oh!
That power wire is tiny! Always make sure that the power wire is larger than what you need. 4 Gauge is sufficient for most, above 1000W and you will want 2 Gauge or larger.[/b]
Well, I think I'm getting like 350W to my subs. I don't want thump, I just want deeper bass.
Make sure to put a fuse in the front by the battery on the power wire! The remote wire isn't a big deal to have a fuse, but the power wire is a HUGE deal.[/b]
All the cables came from a rockford fosgate amp wiring kit. The power wire IS fused, you just don't see the fuse.
There is also a small plastic white/clear cap that is about in the middle of the drivers floor fairly high up. Perfect to take out, and drill though. I was not real keen on poking anything super large hole wise on my wire grommet. Don't want to kill those wires![/b]
Actually, the power cable isn't poking near those other wires.
Lastly, don't ever mount an amplifier on a sub box. It is just asking for a fire. They say right on them usually don't mount to anything subject to excessive vibrations... AKA sub boxes. I mounted mine to the back of my seat.[/b]
I never knew that..
Otherwise, awesome write-up! I should post some pictures of my install up here. Need to get my camera first... It's in the mail![/b]
Thanks! Please post up your pics!
 

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Great write up I am going to try mine this afternoon.

The blank dummy switch is for the Headlight Leveling Switch...only comes standard on the M6 Grand Touring
 

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Great write up I am going to try mine this afternoon.

The blank dummy switch is for the Headlight Leveling Switch...only comes standard on the M6 Grand Touring[/b]
Actually, 2003's were a different story. No HID's then, except overseas.

Nevertheless, thanks for the compliment! Lemme know if you have trouble.
 

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First, I'm new to your board. It's been very helpful to me and I'm appreciative.

Second, in my first post I'd like to be so bold as to ask some advice.

I got lucky this afternoon and picked up a new-in-box infinity basslink (http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner's Manual/BassLink om.pdf) at Best Buy for $54. The Rockford wiring kit actually cost more.

I've installed amps/subs in other vehicles and am relatively comfortable with the process on aftermarket head units, but I've never installed a pre-amped sub like this into a OEM deck.

I own a 2006 Mazda 6 (really? no really). It's a plain car, but effective. It does not have the BOSE sound system.

My questions are these:

1) Can I use the speaker wires that plug into the rear speakers instead of going to the batch of cables by the head unit?

2) Since I have the OEM stereo I'm making an assumption that it does not have pre-outs or a true remote wire. Because of that, will I necessarily need to hook up the remote output?

I'm thinking that by only having to do a bulk of the work running the power and sanding the ground if I'm able to implement my two ideas I can make this an hour install and not have to pull the deck at all (it looks like Angel120 didn't have to either though...)

Thanks in advance!

the new guy
 

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Discussion Starter #16
1) Can I use the speaker wires that plug into the rear speakers instead of going to the batch of cables by the head unit?
2) Since I have the OEM stereo I'm making an assumption that it does not have pre-outs or a true remote wire. Because of that, will I necessarily need to hook up the remote output?
I'm thinking that by only having to do a bulk of the work running the power and sanding the ground if I'm able to implement my two ideas I can make this an hour install and not have to pull the deck at all (it looks like Angel120 didn't have to either though...)[/b]
Welcome! I'm glad people are still reading this how-to.
To answer your questions:
1) The reason why it's suggested to tap into the front speakers is because the stock headunit has a better EQ for the front speakers as opposed to the rear ones. Don't believe me? Try it out using the FAD tuning option on your HU, your rear speakers will sound like crap.
2) It doesn't have a remote wire, but you'll need to hook it up because otherwise, your amp will be on at all times, even when your car is off. The HU has an orange (I believe, but don't quote me on it) +12V wire that that may be used as a remote turn-on, or you can simply tap into the cig lighter.
I did have to pull out the headunit, I took all these pics after originally installing the setup, and then wrote the walkthrough from there. If I didn't have to tap into the front speakers for the LOC, I wouldn't have had to pull out the HU.

Hope this helps!
-Angel.
 

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On a side note, I've noticed that it's kinda hard to actually hear my subs, unless I put my backseat down.. Any advice on that?[/b]

It's cuz you're dampening the sub signals your speakers are putting out. turn 'em around so they face the back of the car.
 

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agree with angel... have to access the switched power wire in the harness behind the HU to keep the amp from having a constant power feed. Something else to consider...you can daisy-chain some aftermarket speakers off the rear's and install in the back dash for MUCH better sound. It's cheap and easy way to get some more stereo imaging quality out of the stock HU.
Fixed it a loooong while ago, broham. Thanks for the tip, though![/b]
anytime. nice ride BTW. How's the weather up in NY? I miss it. Born and bred Bronx brutha here.say that 5 times fast LOL
 
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