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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all

Been searching around and haven't been able to find an answer to this question. I have an '09 6i (4cyl), the other day I went under the car to do a service, oil and tranny filter/fluid, and I discovered a few issues. All the searching has revealed plenty of information on the 1st gen 6 and the Mazda 3, but none for what I have.

Issue #1 :

The god-like engineers at Mazda included something I have never seen, a transmission pan drain plug! At first thought I wanted to kiss the engineer's feet, then I discovered that it uses an allen head to remove the plug, then I was cursing them. Does anyone know the size of the allen head that I need for that plug?

Issue #2 :

Since I didn't have the right tool to remove the drain plug I thought I would do the filter old-school and just remove the pan. So I noticed that the engineers placed 5 of the pan bolts under the drivers side portion of the drive train frame! Again I wanted to curse the engineers. How do I get to those bolts? And once I get to them how do I torque them properly so that I don't have any leaks? I know that they need to be tightened to 115 in/lbs and I have the appropriate torque wrench, but those bolts are under the frame.

I know to some of y'all this may seem like simple issues, and they probably are. I don't like to pay someone to do something I can do myself, and I know there is a simple solution to these two issues. I just need a little guidance from those who have more knowledge than I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ten or eight iirc mil allen head, the smart engineers thought you'd use the drain plug rather then drop the sub frame. It's a simple job though.
Thanks much! I will get one of each just to make sure.

So, from what I gather from your comment about dropping the sub frame is that the only way to get to the filter is by dropping the sub frame? If that's the case I will just do a drain and refill, but wouldn't it be healthier for the tranny to change the filter as well?
 

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The filter is gonna be alright, if you wanted to change that you would want to remove the dog bone, support the engine on a Jack and remove the trans mount to Jack it up high enough to get in with a socket wrench. I would only change a filter after 120,000 miles, but that's me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The filter is gonna be alright, if you wanted to change that you would want to remove the dog bone, support the engine on a Jack and remove the trans mount to Jack it up high enough to get in with a socket wrench. I would only change a filter after 120,000 miles, but that's me.
Thanks tons!

Armed with that information I shall just do a drain/fill. Even though my car is sporting 117k miles right now.

Thanks a lot for the information.
 

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What tranny fluid do I specifically need for my 2003 mazda 6s v6 3.0l? Also is the filter possible to change by myself?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What tranny fluid do I specifically need for my 2003 mazda 6s v6 3.0l? Also is the filter possible to change by myself?
I'm pretty sure that the correct fluid is a Mazda MV, I know that is what goes into my '09. Being that we have Mazdas (Japanese Fords) some Ford components correlate. That being said the fluid for your older 6 could be the same as was used in the Fusion (the vehicle upon which ours is based). I am unsure if you can get to the filter completely like I found with mine, or even if your tranny has a filter, I read somewhere that the older v6 just had a screen and no filter. A little research, like at your local auto parts store, could serve you well with these questions.
 

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Okay thank you very much for the info. I just got back from autozone and I picked up some valvoline max life full synthetic multi-vehicle ATF. It comes in a red bottle and I'm just wondering if this is the correct stuff? And I'm gonna take a look under my car tomorrow and see what I can find out about the filter. Because I also bought a filter. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay thank you very much for the info. I just got back from autozone and I picked up some valvoline max life full synthetic multi-vehicle ATF. It comes in a red bottle and I'm just wondering if this is the correct stuff? And I'm gonna take a look under my car tomorrow and see what I can find out about the filter. Because I also bought a filter. Thanks again.
Be warned! I did a little research on the net and found that it is quite possible that your filter cannot be changed without removing the transmission from the vehicle and opening it up.

The parts stores (I work at Advance Auto Parts part time) are more than happy to sell you the filter because they assume you know what you are doing. I will not assume that you do not know what you are doing, as that would be rude, but in the chance that you are new to this take heed of my warning. When dealing with transmissions it is paramount that you know what you are doing and how to do it.

The automatic transmission is by far the most complex and daunting piece of engineering on an automobile. If you are in the least bit apprehensive or lacking of knowledge on how to work with an auto tranny your money would be better spent having a professional service the tranny.

I am not trying in any way to insult your knowledge, but I would not want to see you attempting something with a piece of the vehicle that will cost thousands to fix if you do it wrong. If you are new to working on an auto tranny, or even doing basic servicing of one, take the fluid and filter back to auto zone, and take your car to a qualified service shop to have it done. You could potentially save yourself thousands in the long run. A hundred dollars to have it professionally serviced is much more digestible.
 

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Well thanks for doing that for me, I've been looking all over the net and really have not found any solid evidence...no no I totally understand, and to be honest I am glad you have told me this. And that may be what I will do, I am just kinda stuck because its a Sunday and I was going to give the mazda stealership a call and ask them about the filter and fluid on my car. The reason why I want to change my fluid and filter is because about two weeks ago I changed my drivers side cv axle, without realizing that I probably should have replaced the old seal...because now my transmission is leaking fluid AND when i accelerate to about 20mph my tranny slips at least that is what it feels like and now I am worried there is something internally wrong, (Yes ive been topping it off) but I was gonna do what I can and change the seal, and get some new tranny fluid in there and a new filter...so that is where I am...
 

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Well thanks for doing that for me, I've been looking all over the net and really have not found any solid evidence...no no I totally understand, and to be honest I am glad you have told me this. And that may be what I will do, I am just kinda stuck because its a Sunday and I was going to give the mazda stealership a call and ask them about the filter and fluid on my car. The reason why I want to change my fluid and filter is because about two weeks ago I changed my drivers side cv axle, without realizing that I probably should have replaced the old seal...because now my transmission is leaking fluid AND when i accelerate to about 20mph my tranny slips at least that is what it feels like and now I am worried there is something internally wrong, (Yes ive been topping it off) but I was gonna do what I can and change the seal, and get some new tranny fluid in there and a new filter...so that is where I am...

I steer clear of the stealerships, no way am I going to pay $100 for a $5 part. My recommendation to you in this situation is to pull that axle and replace the seal. No amount of servicing will fix that problem. Don't put any additives into the tranny (conditioners, leak fixes, etc.). The best course of action is to locate the leak and fix the problem.

It is possible that the slipping is due to the leak. The tranny is nothing more than a very high dollar hydraulic pump. A leak can cause a loss of proper pressure.
 

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Yeah I try to do the same, although I purchased the seal there for 10 dollars...okay well I am going to replace the seal either way. Should I not put any Lucas Transmission fix? Its supposedly fixes the slipping...also after I replace the seal, should i drain the old fluid and put new fluid in or would it be better to top it off until i get it serviced by a professional?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I try to do the same, although I purchased the seal there for 10 dollars...okay well I am going to replace the seal either way. Should I not put any Lucas Transmission fix? Its supposedly fixes the slipping...also after I replace the seal, should i drain the old fluid and put new fluid in or would it be better to top it off until i get it serviced by a professional?
Were it me, I would replace the seal and top it off with cheap fluid, once you are sure the leak is fixed, then drain and refill with fresh and a bottle of the Lucas Tranny fix. I have actually had good luck with that product in the past.

If you want to get it serviced (good idea by the way) then I would fix the seal, top it off with cheap fluid, then take it to get serviced. When it's serviced they will put all new fresh fluid in it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update:


I just drained and refilled the transmission fluid from the transmission. I saw that it was quite dark, about the color of used oil with a slight red tint. I guess it was high time that the fluid needed changed, and I'm not sure that the fluid has ever been changed in that vehicle.

Upon putting the new fluid in (Lucas automatic transmission fluid) I immediately noticed a change in the was the vehicle runs. It seems much quieter, and noticeably smoother. Amazing what proper maintenance can do, I just hope that since it has been so long since a service that damage hasn't been done. Time will tell. I hope that my fuel economy will improve from the service too.

Thanks again for the help and the advice! Y'all are awesome!
 
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