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QUOTE (Isaac @ Nov 4 2009, 09:28 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1614400
Technically, sure, but you may be disappointed by its performance. Bose uses specialized hi-efficiency electronics. Plus, the power wires for the sub amp are a rather thin gauge and may not do well to carry the current an aftermarket amp requires.[/b]

what would i wanna do to make it work? if possible...i wanna get it installed, idc how i do it, and i want it to sound good. is it possibe?
 

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QUOTE (Maxx13 @ Nov 4 2009, 09:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1614402
what would i wanna do to make it work? if possible...i wanna get it installed, idc how i do it, and i want it to sound good. is it possibe?[/b]
Definitely run a battery lead. (I forget if there's a switched remote-turn-on lead at the Bose.) Then try the OEM signal leads. Worst case, the factory head unit already outputs flat line-level audio (albeit at only 1V).
 

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QUOTE (snakoil @ Nov 4 2009, 03:39 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1614279


here is the circuit[/b]
I've spent more time on this than I'd like to admit
I've done it on a breadboard now in case my soldering was causing it and still never works for me
For some reason, the second I put both yellow and orange wires, the sound is completly muted
If I remove orange(12v) or yellow(in -), I see the sub move but it is lighter than without the preamp
If i remove the black(gnd), the subs starts to move like crazy
I tried my resistors individualy and seem to work
I've tried with multiples LM741CN ( in case it was fried) and i always get the same result.
I'm starting to wonder if this wouldn't be my 1uf cap as mine looks different than the ones on pictures here
 

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QUOTE (snakoil @ Nov 8 2009, 09:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1615156
I've spent more time on this than I'd like to admit
I've done it on a breadboard now in case my soldering was causing it and still never works for me
For some reason, the second I put both yellow and orange wires, the sound is completly muted
If I remove orange(12v) or yellow(in -), I see the sub move but it is lighter than without the preamp
If i remove the black(gnd), the subs starts to move like crazy
I tried my resistors individualy and seem to work
I've tried with multiples LM741CN ( in case it was fried) and i always get the same result.
I'm starting to wonder if this wouldn't be my 1uf cap as mine looks different than the ones on pictures here[/b]
well i figured it out
seems it was my 1uf cap
went back and took another brand and it worked...for about 5 minutes
went I closed my sub enclosure I guess some wires connected together and blown my amp (the one under the seat) as now I have no sound at all in any speakers...my life sucks!
 

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got it all fixed now, it was just the fuse in the engine bay for audio that blew up
got everything working nicely now! props for this mod and everybody who helped out on it!!!!
 

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I orderded the V2 and 808Speed6 had it out to me within a couple of days. Once recieved, I went over to Radioshack and purchased a project box, some 3m adhesive tape and some wire connectors. I did the install and it was very straight forward, everything was wired up, the V2 went into the project box and was secured on the side of the sub amp cover with the 3m adhesive tape. I fired up the stereo and commenced to dailing in the V2 to suite my listening tastes. It is a night and day difference from the stock set-up. It puts the lows back into your music, almost as if you had a sub enclosure in your trunk. Best $70 that I have spent on my 6 thus far. Gotta have this if you enjoy listening to your music. Thanks 808Speed6, you rock!
 

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QUOTE (blacksocal6 @ Jan 3 2010, 04:17 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1627016
I orderded the V2 and 808Speed6 had it out to me within a couple of days. Once recieved, I went over to Radioshack and purchased a project box, some 3m adhesive tape and some wire connectors. I did the install and it was very straight forward, everything was wired up, the V2 went into the project box and was secured on the side of the sub amp cover with the 3m adhesive tape. I fired up the stereo and commenced to dailing in the V2 to suite my listening tastes. It is a night and day difference from the stock set-up. It puts the lows back into your music, almost as if you had a sub enclosure in your trunk. Best $70 that I have spent on my 6 thus far. Gotta have this if you enjoy listening to your music. Thanks 808Speed6, you rock![/b]
What size project box did you buy?
 

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OMG, I've been dealing with this issue for years - someone here mentioned to visit Used Auto Parts | Used Car Parts | Auto Salvage, very easy to find, ordered the part for 26 bucks, came to my door yesterday.

install was easy, I just had to remove everything - from the shifter to the LCD display. But... once I replaced it, it was perfect... i can see what temperature it is again! worth the 1 hour of labor.
 

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I just got my pre-amp/eq. The arrows on the three eq dials are all pointing upwards (like to 12 o'clock)-is this the same as neutral or the 0 setting? Thanks
 

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heres the new schematic as promised. this one has a 2 band eq with center frequencies of 30hz and 80hz. with a little boost at 30, a little cut at 80, and overall increase in gain, you will be surprised with how good the bass sounds. im very pleased with how it turned out. with the additional low frequency boost, you can actually feel the bass on songs with good low frequency content. go easy on the boost though, dont go cranking it all the way up on bass heavy songs!

the connections are made at the subwoofer amp connector and are the same as before:
12v: TAP orange wire
ground: TAP black wire
signal -: TAP yellow wire
signal +: CUT purple wire, harness side of wire to signal +, amp side to the circuits output

what the parts do:
the first potentiometer sets overall gain for the circuit. op amp a is a buffer stage, and also sets a low frequency limit to the rest of the circuit. op amp b is the output amplifier, and boosts the signal above that of the input. op amp c and d are the eq circuits, who's center frequency is determined by the 2 peripheral resistors and 2 capacitors that are attached. the other potentiometers control boost/cut of the op amps c and d. when potentiometer is in its center position, that band is flat.

parts: they are all standard parts, so that they are easily obtainable. the ic is a lm324 and contains all 4 op amps, it operates on low supply voltages and is more capable to handle bass signals. i used 1/4 watt, 5% tollerance resistors thoughout. input capacitor is a nonpolarized electrolytic 25v. for the 0.1 and 1uf capacitors, you can use metal film, or polyester film as they have the best tollerance, and are typically rated at 10%. obviously the farther your capacitors are from what is in the schematic, the center frequency is affected. the 100uf cap is a polarized electrolytic rated at 25v. circuit was built on veroboard (the one with the patterns on it, makes life easier and keeps wiring to a minimum. i got away with just soldering in 9 jumpers! theres even space for more stuff on the board :) potentiometer on top left is gain, bottom potentiometers are for the 30 and 80hz bands, respectively.

if you mount it to the top of the amp like i did, you must be careful of the height of the parts, as you can run into a problem with the speaker hitting them. this is why i laid the large capacitors down and on the edge of the board. the potentiomters are mini pc mount type. i already had the resistors, and input capacitor, but had to buy the rest, this came out to $15 from radioshack. i taped the board to the amp to secure it down, but also taped the back with several layers of electrical tape on to prevent the amp cover from touching the bottom of the board. with this circuit, speaker wires DO NOT need to be reversed, so that people who havent built the first circuit will not need to. so if you did build the preamp circuit, switch them back! dont forget to twist the signal wires tightly to minimize chance of picking up noise.

again, IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE building the first circuit, DO NOT BUILD THIS ONE! there are more things that can go wrong since there are more parts. improper construction and/or operation CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR AMP, SUBWOOFER, CAR OR PERSONAL INJURY!! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES!! whew.

on to the good stuff--attached is the schematic and pictures of the completed board, sorry for the crappy camera phone pics...
Thread Revival: Anyone have a copy of this schematic? I can't find it on this thread. Maybe I missed it somewhere...
 

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I searched numerous threads for this schematic and it looks like it was removed as it was too easy to screw it up on building. Best luck, do what I did and find someone who isn't using theirs anymore and pick up a used one as they're no longer available new.
 
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