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Lowspeed
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This is a great way to clean your valves, but I did mine last before this was posted.

SO, that said, when getting a compressor for the garage, get the biggest one you can afford. If your wife isn't totally pissed off, it isn't big enough. Nobody was ever upset about having a good compressor, but many many have been frustrated by not having enough compressor.

Big tank so it'll blow for a while before running out of air & needing to cycle the engine, and an engine big enough to fill that big ass tank back up. Pancake is a great style for randomly firing a nail gun, but typically not up to the task of running a spray gun or a grinder, often not even up to running an impact gun.

At least $150 - 200 on the low end, at least 15 - 20 gallon, at least 2.5 - 5 hp.

If you don't have anyplace to put a good compressor, then find somebody who has one, or just use denatured alcohol instead. There's just no sense in wasting $100 on a crap compressor that does nothing well besides waste $100 of your hard earned money
 

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Easy enough. Time to go shopping for a big 50 gallon. To hell with the wife!
 

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Unfurtunatelly on my case I dont have space to store it, so I will have to find some one with a good one or find another alternative

If you don't have anyplace to put a good compressor, then find somebody who has one, or just use denatured alcohol instead.
Denature alcohol to clean the valve will I use that after using B12, instead of the walnut media? and will I just let seat there an let it burn off or do I still need to extract it with the 2way pump?
 

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Lowspeed
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The tools I used, along with a battery drill. Brass bristle brush in the battery drill, fill with chem of your choics & let soak, run the brush down in there, then suck out the nasty with the shop vac. easy peasy.




Tube attached to shop vac to extract the chems and any debris



DA for reference, can use either DA or B12, both work well to soften the carbon deposits on the valves. I just used DA, others have just used B12. No need to use both- just get what's available & go with it. Price is comparable.




What was left in the shop vac after the DA evaporated - Yikes, glad it's not on my valves anymore!





Time involved,rough ballpark, just off the top of my head & probably missing stuff-
experienced with this platform, has removed the IM before and has all tools & chemicals at hand & ready to go. No distractions, no beer drinking etc....

5-6 hours if they're in bad shape.
And add 10-20 min for cleaning the IM
optional - add another 30-60 for removing the VCTS

Mechanic who's never done it before, ~8-10 hours.


30 min - tear down
first three cyls-
20 min - first soak
20 min - first clean
20 min - second soak
20 min - second clean
20 min - third soak
20 min - third clean
30 min - picking & scraping
10 min - change open valves to different cylinder
remaining cylinder-
20 min - first soak
5 min - first clean
20 min - second soak
5 min - second clean
20 min - third soak
5 min - third clean
10 min - picking & scraping
30 min - reassembly
---------------------------
+/- 5 hours

It's not hard, but it's the very definition of a pain in the ass...


.
 

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Thanks Tigray! by your break down I will probably be some where in the 8-10 hours since that will be first time touching the car besides regular oil change.. . I will should be able do this some time in the Spring since I dont have a garage that I can work on during the winter. So I will make sure to get all the tools, chemicals, and stuff needed for the job way ahead of time.

I will probably also replace the pcv and do the EGR delete and add a catch can while at ti
 

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Lowspeed
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For anybody doing this job, and regardless of how you choose to do it (better results with the media blaster, but either work & anything is better than not doing it at all), here are a number of things to consider-

If you've never removed the intake manifold (IM) before, I encourage doing this in advance to look around & get an idea of what's involved. The first time you remove the IM you can plan a few hours as you learn where all the bolts are and the best way to deal with the power steering pump.

I'd encourage taking the opportunity to replace the OEM IM gasket with a Thermal Insulating Gasket (TIG) between the IM and block. If you live up north and still run coolant through the throttle body, get the TIG for between the TB & IM as well. If you live down south, just do a TB coolant bypass instead- much better results.

The IM gaskets can be re-used, but the TIG's work remarkably well & are a worthy improvement for the small cost- you'll see your BAT's drop several degrees.

Also, if you've not done it yet, you do want to replace your PCV valve while you've got the IM off. You just can't do it without removing the IM, so if you're there, do it. The only hard part is getting the retainer ring off. Replacement valves, and the retainer ring, can both be found at the dealer parts counter.



Adding Oil Catch Can's (OCC) is strongly encouraged- The PCV system routes from the PCV to the IM, using vacuum from the IM to pull pressure out of the engine, which includes oil & other contaminates. Routing that mess through an OCC means the nasty stays in the OCC and not into your IM and then onto your valves. I drain several ounces of oily nasty slime out of mine at every oil change. Nasty crap that would be sent back into the engine...

As an extra help, you can also consider an EGR delete that will also help block off nasty shit from your exhaust from being redirected back to the IM. For this one tho you may need to take into account your local laws on vehicle inspection.
 

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I didn't, but bought one just in case it was an issue.
 
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