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How to Clean Your Brakes - SUPER EASY - 2018 Mazda 6

1499 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Archerfish
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You have the option to lift one wheel at a time or lift all four wheels of your car.

You will need 13, 14, and 17 mm wrenches. If you have this kind of "flexible head ratchet", it will make the job easier.



I don't recommend using the ratchet for the "initial force" when applying torque as you loosen the bolt. There's a possibility that you might break the teeth of the gear.

Another thing, it is better, or should I say BEST, to use a six point wrench for 13 and 14 mm.

You will also need a bottle or two of brake cleaner. For the grease, I recommend using Permatex.



If you have teeny-weeny arms like me, you need this:



You might need this tool if ever you need to push back the brake piston.



If you have the electronic parking brake (EPB), you need first to enter "maintenance mode" before doing any brake job.


Once the rotor and caliper are exposed, you need to remove the bolt from the caliper sliding pin.



Once you take away the bolts, you can now remove the caliper brake by sliding it.



You can now remove the brake pads.



You also need to remove the caliper sliding pin. You can put back the bolts you removed earlier so that it will be easier to pull the caliper sliding pin if it's stuck.

Take note of the position of the pins. You cannot interchange the upper and lower caliper sliding pins.



If you want, you can also remove the rotor. You need to remove the bolts holding bracket.



With the bracket out of the way, you are now free to take away the rotor.



If the rotor is stuck, apply a penetrating fluid to the small hole you will find on its surface.



Then use the bolt that you removed from the caliper sliding pin. Slowly tighten the bolt, and loosening it before further tightening it. Repeat this until the bolt goes all the way to push back the rotor.



Now that you have removed everything, you are now ready to clean the parts.

Clean the brake pads using a sandpaper. I used number 240.



Clean the sliding pins. Again, take note of the upper and lower caliper pins.

Here is the upper pin.



And this is the lower caliper pin. There's a rubber attached to it which is not shown.



Clean both sides of the rotor by using sandpaper.



Clean the rubber boots. I used brake cleaner but I recently read that it's not recommended. Anyways, I already bought a repair kit as the seal and boots are already torn.

Spray liberally the brake cleaner to the rotor on both sides. The same with the brake pads and caliper sliding pins.

Apply grease on the pins before putting it back to the bracket, taking note of the upper and lower positions.

Put back the rotor first, then install the bracket.

Put back the brake pads. You can apply a thin layer of grease on the other surface of the brake pads, the one that do not contact the surface of the rotor.

Once the brake pads are secured, you can now put back the caliper brake by sliding it. Use the brake tool to push back the piston if needed. Make sure you don't push too much. Otherwise, the brake fluid might spill on the reservoir. Don't ask me why I know.






That's it! You are now done. Do the same on the other side.

For the rear brakes, the procedure is just the same.

If there are terms that I didn't use properly, please post the correction as it will be much appreciated.
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Excellent article, @Archerfish... Thank You!
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Per conversation with @Archerfish and per his request I am posting some additional comments here, further to his excellent HowTo:

- folks would want to not strain brake hoses; accordingly, hang-up caliper with wire when you remove it from its frame;

- use made-for-brakes lubricant (hi melting, no petroleum content, therefore good with rubber parts); do not use a conventional petroleum-based grease;

- for rotor removal you may not have to rely on just the small threaded hole on the rotor hib-face... you can assist the screw in this hole using the unthreaded bolt holes related to fastening the brake caliper frame to the steering knuckle... These are part of the steering knuckle. Use a bolt, in ea. hole, that is slightly smaller dia than the hole and use two nuts on same, with the nuts threaded-on to the bolt while placed in the space between the rotor surface and the backside of the brake caliper frame holding "eyes"/holes. Use a small piece of sheet metal up against the rotor surface and progressively move/rotate said nuts apart on ea. bolt... which pushes the rotor off. The small dia. threaded hole on the rotor "hat" can strip it's threads... but you can use it along with this method for best results;

- use a very small amount of *NeverSeize" or alternate to preclude corrosion forming between rotor and hub when reassembling;

- renew the rubbers on the bottom caliper pins each time... and lube-up pins and rubbers with that specialty lube; and

- when removing the rotor off the hub, i.e. the first step, apply penetrating oil to rotor-to-hub joint, not so much into the threaded hole on the rotor hat.

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- folks would want to not strain brake hoses; accordingly, hang-up caliper with wire when you remove it from its frame;
Yes, I forgot to mention it. I actually have a stool which I used to support it. Of course, it's best to use a wire. I realized it when I was doing the rear brakes.

There's a tool where it looks like an S. That's what I saw the mechanic used.

- use made-for-brakes lubricant (hi melting, no petroleum content, therefore good with rubber parts); do not use a conventional petroleum-based grease;
I don't know what are the differences with the lubricants you posted but the one I used says that it is safe to use in rubbers.

- use a very small amount of *NeverSeize" or alternate to preclude corrosion forming between rotor and hub when reassembling;
Right! I only realized it when I secured the last wheel. I will do that once I have the mechanic install the caliper repair kit.

Here is the picture of the rear, and it's badly torn.



I already bought the front caliper kit but the rear kit is not available. If anyone knows where I can one, kindly post the link.
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Yes, I forgot to mention it. I actually have a stool which I used to support it. Of course, it's best to use a wire. I realized it when I was doing the rear brakes.

There's a tool where it looks like an S. That's what I saw the mechanic used.



I don't know what are the differences with the lubricants you posted but the one I used says that it is safe to use in rubbers.



Right! I only realized it when I secured the last wheel. I will do that once I have the mechanic install the caliper repair kit.

Here is the picture of the rear, and it's badly torn.



I already bought the front caliper kit but the rear kit is not available. If anyone knows where I can one, kindly post the link.
Boy 'o boy does that rear caliper dust seal look lousy 🙁. I ask, rhetorically, how did it get to be that way? @Archerfish , you don't have that many miles on it...

Re getting the rubbers-only / rebuilding kit, you're having trouble finding it?
Boy 'o boy does that rear caliper dust seal look lousy . I ask, rhetorically, how did it get to be that way? @Archerfish , you don't have that many miles on it...

Re getting the rubbers-only / rebuilding kit, you're having trouble finding it?
I think I have an idea how it happened. I don't remember those Mazda boys using the "maintenance mode". What I remember is that they used a tool to push the piston back by forcefully turning it.

It was recent when I got to know about this maintenance mode. For three years, they have been doing this. When I replaced the brake pads, the mechanic I called also forced it that way.

Now that I had the courage to do this job, I'm doing it right.

Yes, I can't find a repair kit. And I'm not confident to order online as I can't be sure if it's the right fit.

I already have the one for the front.

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