Second; after a bad bleed experience, I recommend pressure bleeding ONLY for the clutch. Vacuum bleeding does not work. Gravity bleed may work, but it seems like the fluid does not like to flow from the master reservoir to the clutch master.
How do you know you have air in the system? List the problems u are having....
If ur clutch is getting stuck at the lower position and u have to pull it back out, then ya i had the same problem. Mines got worse over time....it eventually started press down on its own, making it really hard to drive. I did bleed the clutch lines, howeve that didnt solve the problem, i had to get my master cylinder replaced for the clutch.
When I replaced my clutch line, I just bled it like the rest of the brakes, but it does seem to feel a little strange. I've heard you can't use a mighty-vac to do this, so are there any successful (for the 6) methods to actually reintroduce fluid through the bleed screw?
i hear a crunch every time i push down on it...im having trouble getting the car into 3rd gear alot( i just got a new transmission from mazda 6 months ago) and mazda said its because my clutch isnt disengaging right so they said to bleed the clutch first so i decided to order a ss clutch line and bleed the clutch at the same to see if it helps...the shity part is my car is out of warranty now!
If you're set out to do all that, I'd bleed first and see what happens before installing a SS line.
First, let's get something straight: Air in your clutch line would not cause a "crunch." Instead you would experience an unusually high engagement point - kind of like when your clutch is worn out. If you've never bleed the line, then I HIGHLY doubt any air is in there. Does the "crunch" you describe happen ALL the time? Do you feel it both during engagement AND disengagement? Does it happen throughout the entire pedal range or just in one spot?
My clutch makes noise too. The reason is because it's old and it's a POS, but not in that order.
You're both right, air in clutch lines will cause a higher engagement point and may not disengage fully with the clutch pedal depressed. I wouldn't change the clutch line unless you were planning on doing that anyway. There isn't much of a how-to on this. Its like bleeding the brakes. Attach your bleeding device or bleeder line, crack the bleeder 1/4 turn max, don't allow air into the system, get all the big bubbles out, close the bleeder. Some tiny bubbles may be seen if the seal around the bleed screw isn't perfect. For some reason using a Mityvac and sealing the bleeder screw with petroleum jelly, it was still getting air in the system... in big doses! Sucked the clutch dry. You can make your own pressure bleeder, or even just have a bottle to pressurize the master; just don't let it go dry!
The SS line will not make this problem go away, but may improve clutch feel over a normal working system.
Thanks for clarifying that, FP. Full disengagement is actually the bigger problem with air in the lines. If this is the case, then there might be some grinding while moving the shift lever, but not in the pedal itself.
Thanks for clarifying that, FP. Full disengagement is actually the bigger problem with air in the lines. If this is the case, then there might be some grinding while moving the shift lever, but not in the pedal itself.[/b]
I just replaced the clutch line on my wife's 6 and ran into a few problems described in this thread and wanted to share my conclusions. I changed all 4 lines and the clutch line with SS. Bled the brake lines with a Mity-vac as many have done in the past with no problems. As I was bleeding the clutch, I found that in order to use the vacuum bleeder, you must keep the reservoir more than 3/4 full or you WILL bleed clutch dry/put air in from the top side. Is there 2 places in the reservoir that fluid is drawn from? Once I kept the reservoir full and bled very small amounts from the clutch at a time, I had no more problems bleeding with my Mity-vac. Clutch feels great now.
Hey guys be careful with those reservoir caps; removing & reinstalling the caps. I don't know which years that had the huge caps like on my 04 6s, but the little taps on the cap that holds onto the reservoir can and will break. You will def have 0 pressure for brakes + the clutch pedal if the cap flies off under pressure. After breaking tabs on mine, I parked the car until I found a mazda dealer near me that had one...$17(a couple years or more ago).
I'm chasing a minor oil leak, not sure if its motor or gear oil (have a cold and cannot smell), and trying to find out why all gears are hard when the transmission is cold.
I washed the bottom of the engine last night, drove today and went to check. There was one drop coming from where the...
Coming back from a class trip this evening down the interstate at about 70mph most of the way because I really feel bad doing my usual 85mph with the way the 6 is geared. I think the car is already reving way too high even at 75+ mph... Sure its great for passing but prolonged periods of time...
I there a way to tell weather the Master Clutch Cylinder or the Slave Cylinder is going bad? Do I just need to Bleed the lines? How do I do that?
When I start out driving and the car is cold I have to pump the clutch pedal several times almost like I have to build up pressure or the car will...