Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 112 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
There are a lot of threads on how to aim the headlights but many have contradictory information, so I decided to find out for myself how they work. Hopefully, this guide will be the final say on this topic.

[EDIT] What model years does this apply to?
I've been notified that the 05 and up models have a different setup, so this applies only to 2003 and 2004 models.

What adjustments are possible?
Low beams: Vertical and horizontal aiming
High beams: Vertical and horizontal aiming
Integrated fogs: Vertical aiming only

Is it possible to adjust the lights with the car fully assembled?
Yes, but it is a bit difficult. See picture 4 for more details.

Anything to be careful of?
Be careful when turning the adjusters; they are reputed to be fragile and easily breakable. The adjusters may be dirty and slightly difficult to turn, but if doesn’t want to turn then don’t force it.


Picture 1

This is the back of the driver’s side light assembly. There are five adjusters; A, B, C and D are adjusted using a 6mm Hex key. Adjuster E uses a 7mm Hex key.

A:
Adjusts the vertical aiming of both the low and high beams.

B:
Adjusts the horizontal aiming of the low beam only.

C:
Adjusts the vertical aiming of the low beam only.

D:
Adjusts the horizontal aiming of the high beam only.

E:
Adjusts the vertical aiming of the integrated fog light only.

Adjustment order:
1. Turn off all lights and remove the low beam fuses to isolate the fog lights and high beams.
2. Turn on the high beams only.
3. Adjust A to set the high beam at the desired height. This will affect the low beam’s aim too but that will be corrected later.
4. Adjust D to set the left – right position of the high beam.
5. Turn off the high beams and turn on the integrated fogs.
6. Adjust E to set the integrated fogs at the desired height.
7. Turn off all lights and replace the low beam fuses.
8. Turn on the low beams only.
9. Adjust C to set the low beam at the desired height.
10. Adjust B to set the left-right position of the low beam.
11. You may have to adjust C again if B required a lot of adjustment.

This is basically all you need to know. Look at picture 4 to see how adjustments can be made easier. If you want to know how the lights are actually adjusted from the inside continue on.


Picture 2

This is the front of the driver’s side light assembly. The same adjustment points from the previous picture are indicated along with some other points.

High beam and low beam:
- Adjuster A pushes a brace (highlighted in purple) that is connected to the low beam and high beam assemblies. The brace connects to the low beam assembly at point 1 and to the high beam assembly at point 2. All connections use a ball joint. Point 2 in turn is another brace that connects to the high beam reflector at points 3 and 4. So as adjuster A is turned, it pushes the shared brace forward or backward. The brace then pushes the bottom inner corner of the high beam and low beam assemblies forward or backward providing the vertical adjustment.

Low beam:
- The low beam is anchored by adjusters B, C and moveable point 1 (adjuster A).

High beam:
- The high beam is anchored by adjuster D, fixed point 5, and moveable point 2 (adjuster A).

Integrated fog light:
- The integrated fog light is anchored by adjuster E and fixed point 6. Because it only has two anchoring points which are aligned vertically, the fog lights can only be aimed vertically and not horizontally.


Picture 3

This is a clearer shot of the brace (highlighted in purple) that adjuster A moves. You can see how it connects to the low beam assembly at point 1 and the high beam brace at point 2.


Picture 4

Attached to an adjuster on each headlight assembly is a white plastic clip like that in the picture. Typically, it is located on adjuster A. This clip allows you to turn the 6mm adjusters at 90 degrees from their standard angle. Keep in mind that it reverses the rotation of the adjuster. That is, if you need to turn the adjuster clockwise, you will need to turn counter-clockwise when using the clip.

Remove the clip and grind down the two raised tabs located on the inside arms (the clip in the picture has had its tabs already removed). This will prevent the clip from attaching too securely to the adjuster. Next, attach a long piece of thread or dental floss to the clip. This safety cord will save you when you drop it around the light housings and believe me you will. It also serves to help remove the clip from tough to reach adjusters like B which is located deep in the fender.

Without this modified clip, turning adjuster B would otherwise be impossible. Also important is to use Hex keys with ball-ends to give you some play with the angles.




I hope that this helps. Please let me know via PM if you find any errors or have any questions. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's an 04 with integrated fogs. I'd be surpised if there were any changes from 03 to 05 but it's possible.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,221 Posts
Nice post, I'm going to go ahead an pin this for now. If it doesn't match the 05, the someone with and 05 find out how to do it and post up another how-to on here and I'll conglomerate them all in the first post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Excellant writeup- these assemblies are rather complicated at first to comprehend. The tip about the removable adjuster is priceless. I have been living with my headlights being too low since the HID conversion. Now I think I have them just right, thanks to some insight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Hopefully you guys can help me out with this...
I went for my inspection last week and everything was fine except for my passenger side low beam, it was pointing blindingly high. The mech at the garage tried to fix it but the entire low beam housing was loose inside the the headlight assembly and when he went to adjust the light by turning the screw there was no top to it.
What I would really like to know is how loose does the low beam sit normally? I bought the car new and have never done any work on the headlights so I have no idea what caused this. It's going in to the garage soon for an oil change and I'll have them look at it then but I like to do my best at not looking like a moron when I go in with the car.
I hope this makes sense and unfortunately I'm at work so I can't get any pictrues.
Thanks
Justin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
So the guy at the inspection station was an idiot. Turns out the beam just needed a simple adjustment. A few turns of the adjustment knob and I'm all set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
My light pattern passes the wall test, but I've noticed that the bulb in my driver-side lowbeam sits a little lower in the housing.
If I stand about 6' back and move my eye-level below the Mazda emblem, the driver-side lowbeam "brightens" a few inches before the passenger side.
Basically, the bulb on the driver side is visible before the passenger side.
Anyone else experience this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
how does a new headlight for passager side cost
[/b]
Wrong place for this question, but it cost me $445 Canadian (before tax) for the driver's side from the dealer. The replacement does NOT come with any bulbs, none of the dust caps, and does not include the bumper support at the bottom of the assembly. If you need any of these, you'll have to order them separately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
had a go at this as my left hand side seems to be pointed hideously right, more towards the centre of car if anything.

but B is so hard to get to! and where i was working tonite, it didnt even give me a good idea whether i was actually adjusting anything the right way regardless. very tight squeeze without removing bumper or other items besides water and even without airbox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
had a go at this as my left hand side seems to be pointed hideously right, more towards the centre of car if anything.

but B is so hard to get to! and where i was working tonite, it didnt even give me a good idea whether i was actually adjusting anything the right way regardless. very tight squeeze without removing bumper or other items besides water and even without airbox.
[/b]
Yes, that adjuster is seated pretty deep in the fender panel. Did you try using the plastic adapter clip that I mentioned in my post. Make sure that you have ground off the tabs and are using dental floss or something to secure it. Then place the plastic adapter on the end of you allen key and use the floss to keep it tensioned in place. Using the allen key to extend your reach, stick the plastic adapter onto the B adjuster. You should be all set then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,287 Posts
Anyone know what the specs are? I've adjusted mine and when I got an inspection they said they were off. I know theres a distance away you park from a wall and then a distance up you mark on the wall for the beam to hit. What are those specs? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
thanks for the quick reply Guinea Pig, if you dont mind I'd like to ask a few more probing questions just to make this alot easier for me tonite, when I plan to do it outside and possibly upon removal of bumper. As the best I could do last night in terms of adjusting B was pretty much twisting it back and forth a couple of mill (without removing the clip, excuse my igornance upon removing two of them I didnt understand how removing it would help my cause? ) which also brings me to ask, do these adjuster work anything like ratchets? I found B's clip to be a different shape to all the others, what would appear be the top of it, instead of the black round thing pictured, it had a white cone like funnel protruding from it.

'This clip allows you to turn the 6mm adjusters at 90 degrees from their standard angle. Keep in mind that it reverses the rotation of the adjuster. That is, if you need to turn the adjuster clockwise, you will need to turn counter-clockwise when using the clip.'

Is that what you mean by removal of the clip, so that you are able to adjust the beam from right to left, top to down?

And yes I did feel like an idiot, standing in the garage at 2:30am sweating from the engine heat, the light output and as well as the torch I was working with!

And lastly for now, I was hoping you could tell me the adjustments of clockwise and anti - clockwise resulting in right to left/top to down?

I will be incredibly appreciative upon centering the beams Guinea Pig, hopefully tonite!
thanks heaps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
sixthsense,

Your welcome; I've been helped by so many other members that I'm glad I can finally contribute back.

First off, in my last post I was using the word 'adpater' for the item pictured below. In my original post, I called these 'clips'.


Is that what you mean by removal of the clip, so that you are able to adjust the beam from right to left, top to down?
[/b]
The clips are used to allow you to make adjustments from a different angle. You can leave them on and still make your adjustments using either the clip or the adjuster.



I found B's clip to be a different shape to all the others, what would appear be the top of it, instead of the black round thing pictured, it had a white cone like funnel protruding from it.
[/b]
As your car is an Australian model, the lights might be slightly different from our North American models. Is the white funnel thing the equivalent of the clip pictured above?



And lastly for now, I was hoping you could tell me the adjustments of clockwise and anti - clockwise resulting in right to left/top to down?
[/b]
As for the direction of the turn, I can't remember. A couple of full rotations of the adjuster should make it clear.


Goodluck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
cheers guinea pig. yeh point B is the only one that is different to the other clips. the others are all the same as yours pictured, thus the confusement. but all settled now that you tell me I can adjust just the same, as the positions they are in and with my bent allen (hex) keys, the only angle I can utilise regardless. However, cannot make full revolutions with the adjuster. might be a different story with bumper off in about half an hour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
ok then, where to start.

getting the bumper off for the first time at midnight was a little bit of an effort, specially getting them wheel well things off. had to jack up left side of car to take wheel off in order to properly unscrew them off even.

alright, so yes its damn hard undertaking these adjustments with the car fully assembled as well as semi assesembled I found. I only managed to get some results having pried the wheel well lining right back, managing to pick the adjuster cover so that I was able to adjust it with my fingers, as it was impossible to do with the hex key, no room. And only then was I able to get some results, and some pointing up occuring.

however, bad news. yep you probably guessed it, and those rumours were correct.

them adjustors are a little sensitive. whilst going back to the right hand side, in order to raise it as it now looked low in comparison to the left. Suddenly just as it was getting about right, bang/pop and the level drops back down to where it started (this was adjuster C) and it aint moving no more despite any changes with the adjustor it self. So i'm now freaking thinking what the hell I'm going to do. Luckily its ok in its position but it could be better.

Back to the left which is pointing back in front alot better as opposed to previously. Had enough by 1:30am and decided time to pack everything back together before I broke another adjustor (adjustor A on right now also seems to be made redundant)

went for a drive, everything seems alot better, as opposed to this left headlight shining down and to the right. Everythings alot more 'centred' so to speak.

but after everythings in the garage and I finish putting the headlight back together, I noticed this on the left hand side -




as opposed to this on the right hand side




thus suggesting why it was how it was, what i dont understand is why the hell is it hidden behind like that? From what I recall the left side had been previously replaced because the high beam housing was loose.
Perhaps it was always sitting like this previously, just that I didnt notice as much with the halogens?

I dunno what the hells going on, but next thing I need to do now is to get that projector sitting squarely in its home....

gonna have to take the headlights out? tried taking out headlights whilst I had the bumper off, but didnt know where to start. best go look for how to now.

and lets not forget the adjustor on the right hand side now seemingly broken...


anyway, tell me what you think of this rambling guinea! these HID's though still a massively marked improvement even with half a left hand side projector exposed, its causing a headache to get perfect!
 
1 - 20 of 112 Posts
Top