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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As promised in another thread, here is a how-to for installing lowering springs on the 2nd gen Mazda6. I've had the car almost 2 months now and have learned a great deal from this forum so here is my first real contribution. Others who have done this, please chime in if I've provided any misinformation.

Today I am installing B&G Suspension Systems 50.1.055 S2 Sport Vehicle Lowering Springs which advertise a 1.5F/1.4R drop, bought on Amazon for $165. Also installed at the same time were some ceramic brake pads and front turn signal bulbs which will get their own posts.


Tools you will need:
-Wrenches and sockets sizes: 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, and 19mm (3/4 in); spark plug socket (5/8 in?) or equivalent wrench
-Angled 14mm wrench for turning the top nut on the front struts which is recessed in the housing. A socket doesn't work here because you need to hold the top of strut with pliers while turning the nut (see pic below of the wrench I got)
-Allen wrench, 6mm ?
-Floor jack and 2 jack stands
-Breaker bar (I use a ~2 foot, 1 in diameter lead pipe)
-Strut compressors, rented from autozone/AAP
-Good pliers
-Liquid wrench
-Blue loctite
-Gloves
-Coffee?



Front:

1. Remove wheel

2. Remove bottom nut and bolt holding the fork to the lower control arm. I think this one is 17mm. This one may require the breaker bar.



3. Remove brake line from bracket on strut. 12mm wrench or socket.



4. Remove nut from sway bar end link. This requires holding the bolt with the allen wrench while turning the nut with 14mm wrench. Once nut is removed, end link pops out.





5. Loosen/remove the other bolt circled in the above picture (14mm), the one holding the fork to the bottom of the strut. This one was really tight and definitely required the breaker bar for me. I thought I could get away with not disconnecting this and would be able to get the whole assembly out if I removed the upper control arm. This is not the case, you must remove the strut from the fork. Once bolt is loosened/removed, the strut may still be stuck in there. You will have to pry a little bit at the opening behind the bolt to loosen up the grip on the bottom of the strut in order to slide the strut out of the fork.



6. Remove the three nuts on the top of the strut tower (under the hood) with spark plug socket (deep 5/8 in)

7. Remove entire strut/spring assembly

8. Use rented strut compressors to compress the stock spring



9. With spring compressed so tension is removed from top assembly, remove top nut from strut. This was a biotch for me.. I would soak it in liquid wrench and take a break and/or apply heat with a soldering iron to break the hold of the loctite (I tried this, don't know if it helped or not). You will need to then turn the nut with your angled 14mm wrench, while holding/turning opposite way with pliers the extruding bolt(strut). I stripped the nut a bit taking it off, so I went ahead and replaced them on both sides when reassembling. I believe the thread was 12 mm x 1.25.



10. With spring removed from strut, remove compressors and use them to slightly compress the new spring until short enough to reassemple properly. Reassemble strut and spring. Apply blue loctite to the top bolt and tighten until 2-3 threads are exposed (really, 2-3 threads, not less). Take the plastic padding from the top link of original spring (gray thing in above pic) and put it on the same position on the new spring.



11. Reinstall spring assembly and reconnect everything in reverse order of removal.. Three nuts on top of strut assembly, reattach fork to bottom of strut and tighten bolt, reattach sway bar endlink and tighten fully using wrench and allen wrench, reattach bottom bolt of fork to lower control arm, reattach brake line to bracket on strut.

12. Make sure again you have retightened everything. I'm not sure of torque specs but I think someone said 40 ft/lbs for smaller bolts, 50 ft/lbs for larger ones.

13. Replace wheel, repeat for other side.

Next post for the rears. This is tough selecting only 10 pics for a post, I took a sh*tload more..
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Continued..Rear

REAR:

1. Jack both sides up on jack stands. Remove wheel.

2. Put jack under the bottom of spring cup on the side closer to the lower control arm bolt right behind the brake. Jack it up a little bit so the spring tension is on the jack rather than on the bolt you're going to be removing.



3. Remove one end of sway bar end link, I think you could do the top or bottom bolt, although for me only the top bolt would budge on both sides.. You may need to soak this is some liquid wrench and give it a minute to loosen it up. You will need to use an allen wrench to hold the bolt while turning with a 14mm wrench just like the sway bar end link on the front.



4. Remove the bolt from the lower control arm (15mm). Slowly lower jack, don't worry the springs is not going to fly out, when the jack is fully lowered, the spring is fully uncompressed. Push down on the control arm with your foot, twist and pull out the spring.





5. Cut yellow bumpstop at the second groove from the bottom. I didn't do this until after when I realized after the car was lowered down that there was a very, vary small gap between the bottom of bumpstop and the control arm leaving very little suspension travel. The pic is me cutting it after everything is reassembled.



6. Take top spring assembly/padding from original spring and put on new spring. Put the new spring in. Jack the control arm back up and reattach sway bar end link and lower control arm. Make sure the sway bar end links are fully re-tightened until they cannot rotate on their own or you will end up with a clunking noise. The lower control arm bolt took a little convincing to line up and get the bolt back through. Use a strong screwdriver or something similar or smaller diameter as the bolt to pry from the opposite side to get the holes to line up and the bolt through.







7. Replace wheel, repeat for other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Continued..Results

I bought these wheels from a Nissan Altima owner with tires that are smaller diameter than stock (235/40-18). The pics give you an idea how much it was dropped, but not what the wheel gap will look like with properly sized tires. I've since had other tires (225/50-18, actually 2% larger diameter than stock) installed and the wheel gap has nearly disappeared..Will post another pic when I get a chance to wash the ride.

Before:



After:


 

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Looks great, so is there any rubbing or other noises? How often have you kissed the front bumper lip coming out or going into a driveway?
 

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12. Make sure again you have retightened everything. I'm not sure of torque specs but I think someone said 40 ft/lbs for smaller bolts, 50 ft/lbs for larger ones.
EDIT: Sorry everyone, the specs below are for a 1st gen

Just installed my Racing Beats...here are my torque specs I found (ft/lbs):

FRONT:
-Strut top(3 nuts): 22-29
-"Pinch" Bolt (strut-to-spindle): 32-39
-Lower spindle-to-lower arm bolt: 68-93

REAR:
-Lower arm-to-knuckle/spindle: 64-86

*I didnt bother with a spec on the strut shaft nut...just ran the impact till it stopped :) *

*I also didnt bother on the sway bar end links....just ran it "tight" by hand*
 

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Just installed my Racing Beats...here are my torque specs I found (ft/lbs):

FRONT:
-Strut top(3 nuts): 22-29
-"Pinch" Bolt (strut-to-spindle): 32-39
-Lower spindle-to-lower arm bolt: 68-93

REAR:
-Lower arm-to-knuckle/spindle: 64-86

*I didnt bother with a spec on the strut shaft nut...just ran the impact till it stopped :) *

*I also didnt bother on the sway bar end links....just ran it "tight" by hand*
racing beats for a 2nd gen?
 

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thanks to this post, adjusting my rear coils went pretty easy.
 

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Great post! I have recently heard that cutting the rear bumpstops will cause the shocks to wear prematurely... is this true?
 

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prolly doin mine this weekend or next im just waiting on shipping :\ no idea how things will fit but it's worth it lol
What's the offset of your wheels dude? Hopefully you don't have any issues!

Lowered my ksports another inch or so today went breezy;) and liking the look more and more.
 

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What's the offset?
 

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You might be okay with the 38 offset without a fender roll. There are a few members running 40 offset on an 8 in wide wheel. The 20 offset would be an aggressive fitment that probably need a roll and some tire stretch. Maybe even some negative camber. That might be more work than you want. Without that your car would have some poke. Not attractive in my opinion.
 
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