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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been trying for an hour. I can't get through. Yes I've searched.
 

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I've been trying for an hour. I can't get through. Yes I've searched.[/b]
When I installed my amps, I had to drill a 1/2" hole through the wall to pass the 4gauge wire through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Damn. I don't want to drill anything.
 

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i was looking for a spot to not to long ago and couldnt find anything behind the battery. but when i was looking under the drivers side undernearth the dash; i seen a clear piece of plastic with ligh shining through it. i couldnt find it from the engine bay side though. but i'd still like to see where this rubber piece is. maybe you can take a picture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have tried everything... I can't get a hanger or anything between that rubber. And EVEN if I do... I don't know how I'm supposed to pull 8ga wire through there.
 

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wow.... anyway... i have so much sh*t running thru there its not even funny ok....
take out the battery
go in the car
find where a whole bunch of wires ar going thru the firewall(under the steering wheel behind the clutch/brake)
take a hanger
straighten it out
duck tape a smaller wire (not too small), (i tapped my power wire right to the hanger)
get a friend to stand by the engine compartment and tell him too look or try to feel if the hanger that YOU are pushing thru the rubber thing visible and not hitting anything
.when he sees it tell him to grab it and pull it out.
there u go.might not work in the first couple times, but eventuallly youll get it... im at work so i cant provide pics. but if no succes post back.. ill try to help
look for a soft spot, tell the friend to feel on the other side see if he can feel the thing pushhing against it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am pushing it through, and it won't come out the other side. I am going between 2 rubber pieces. Should I go straight through where all the wires are going? It seems like I might cut a wire and ruin my car.
 

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It seems like I might cut a wire and ruin my car.[/b]
you might. more than one club6er has ruined an ECM by shorting a wire in the main harness. be sure that your battery is removed/disconnected before poking around that grommet.

the grommet has two thick pieces of rubber to get through, with an air bubble in between. if you're going to go through the grommet your best bet is to cut a little X from one side, big enough to poke a long screw driver through. see where it's poking into the far side, then cut a second X there. then tape your power flow wire to the end of the screw driver and push through both holes.

you must not have search too hard. there are about a dozen threads on this subject including at least a couple how-to's with pics. here's one.

i drilled my own hole, added a plastic grommet and called it a day in <10min.
 

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I had no problems squeezing 2awg welding wire (bigger than 0awg) through the main grommet.

Remove the battery and find yourself a very long zip tie. less chance of poking yourself or poking through a wire that you dont need to poke through.
 

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I managed to get it through the main grommet behind the battery, but it was an absolute bitch.

I started with a 1/16th" diameter rod, about a foot long, and sharpened one end of it on a grinder. Once this was sharp, it was no problem getting it to pierce the flange of the grommet.

The bigger challenge was fixing the other end of the rod to the power cable such that it followed the rod without simply coming off as soon as it hit the grommet.

After several tries of different approaches and much cursing, I hit upon the solution. I found some 1/4" diameter cooper tubing, and cut off a piece about 4 inches long. One end I crimped over the 1/16th" rod, the other end I crimped over a stripped end of the power cable. I then hit both intersections with a blow torch, and melted some solder into them. I was then able to push the rod through the grommet, and then pull it from the inside of the car.

If I had to do it over again, I would just drill a hole somewhere and use a small grommet from any autoparts store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got it through last night. I dremeled off a leg of an H-style yard sign holder. I then filed it down smooth. Then I slid it through (with a lot of force). Then I used half a roll of electrical tape and taped about 6 inches down the sided of the wire and metal stick. Then I just pulled through really hard, and it popped through. I wish I had thought of that earlier. Now I'm off to finish my installation. Thanks for the advice guys.
 

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I got it through last night. I dremeled off a leg of an H-style yard sign holder. I then filed it down smooth. Then I slid it through (with a lot of force). Then I used half a roll of electrical tape and taped about 6 inches down the sided of the wire and metal stick. Then I just pulled through really hard, and it popped through. I wish I had thought of that earlier. Now I'm off to finish my installation. Thanks for the advice guys.[/b]
NICE!

You got through the hard part. Wasn't it incredibly satisfying when you first pulled the wire through into the inside of the car?

Where/how are you mounting the amp? Make sure the metal of the amp isn't contacting the metal of the car... it can cause grounding problems. You should mount the amp to something like MDF board, then mount the MDF to the car.
 

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im currently doing the same, i found the grommet, but on the australian mazda there is a box/jheater/filter thing infront of the grommet/ i managed to get about 30cm of coathanger through but soon as a kink in the wire came up, it would not go through. You guys seem to have direct access from inside the cabin on the left hand drive cars, where as aus version has the grommet under the glove box. ive spent 8 hours today, and 4 hours last night, my hands are brusied and bleeding, is it even possible on the australian versions of the mazda 6?
 

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You can't get it through from either side without it kinking? As a last resort I would use whatever I could find that was long enough, and thin enough (long screwdriver) and pop a hole in the grommet away from the other wires so its just one hole, for your wire. Then use the coathanger method and shove that *$%# through there. To avoid kinks I'd wrap the top of the coat hanger and the wire together with electrical tape as to make it as narrow and straight as possible. Maybe tape down a few spots down the hanger for support. I was able to do it with a chopstick, but I didnt have to deal with the HVAC in my face. But I imagine you could make it happen, there is probably just zero visibility.

There is also a spot under the right side fender, by the firewall near the hvac on USDM models. If you remove the fender you should have access, there is a section there where you should be able to gain access through the firewall. If you go this route I would make my own rubber grommet to place around the wire, to seal the hole and then use a sealant or silicone to seal it water tight for peace of mind. I'll snap a pic of the area I'm referring to on the left hand drive. It will be above your pedals close to the wheel well behind the steering wheel.
 

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I went a bit off the side from the main harness. It was the only way I could get through the engine side. Now I realize the RHD is set up different but I assume you still have to get all the same wires through. There is always the old drill a hole and put in a grommet or silicone bleb.
 

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