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2016 Mazda6 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi folks,

first post! i swear i have done a lot of online research, including searching this form, so if it's already been answered, i apologize.

i'm adding under dash LEDs to my 2016 Sport. i'd like to tap into the cabin fuse box using a fuse tap, probably via fuse #9: f.outlet, which is 15A. i know i should identify which leg of the fuse is hot, so i put things in correctly.

i've read that the added fuse should have a lower rating than the fuse you're tapping. so i'm thinking a 10A fuse for the LEDs.

additionally, i'd like to add a SPST toggle, so i don't have the LEDs on the entire time the car is running. i'd put the switch in between the fuse box and the LEDs - probably just mount the toggle next to the TPMS reset switch on the dash.

does all this sound correct? any red flags?

thanks much,
andre
 

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2016 Mazda6 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You need a fuse for the proper current draw. LEDs pull hardly anything. The fuse in the slot doesnt determine the possible rating for the other fuse.
thanks! so i could go w/ an even lower amperage fuse, since LEDs don't draw much?

i think i had assumed that the circuit was current > original fuse > additional fuse > device. so that if there were a problem with the added device, the additional fuse would blow first, protecting whatever was using the original fuse.

but i guess the path is more like current > additional fuse > device, right? the current's not going through both fuses, just the additional one?

in which case, sizing a fuse for the LEDs, regardless of what fuse i'm tapping, is what i should be paying attention to.
 

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2004 Mazda 6s Wagon ATX
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thanks! so i could go w/ an even lower amperage fuse, since LEDs don't draw much?

i think i had assumed that the circuit was current > original fuse > additional fuse > device. so that if there were a problem with the added device, the additional fuse would blow first, protecting whatever was using the original fuse.

but i guess the path is more like current > additional fuse > device, right? the current's not going through both fuses, just the additional one?

in which case, sizing a fuse for the LEDs, regardless of what fuse i'm tapping, is what i should be paying attention to.
Sounds good.
current > original fuse > tap a fuse (additional parallel 5A fuse) > switch > device
Look at the amperage draw of the LED. For the Diode Dynamics 4 RGBW SMD30 strips it is 0.285A. This means you could use a 0.5 amp fuse. If you put a 5A fuse in that should stop any significant damage happening if you wear through a wire and ground your current.
As Talon said, interior LED draw very little power.
 

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2016 Mazda6 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
💡!

ah ok, so it's this: current > original fuse > original device OR current > additional fuse > new device

so even if i'm running the cig lighter and LEDs at the same time, they are separate circuits. one doesn't pass into the other.

my goal should be to get an appropriate fuse for the LEDs. total Watts for the LEDs divided by Volts while the car is running = number of Amps.

thank you both!
 

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ah ok, so it's this: current > original fuse > original device OR current > additional fuse > new device
Eh kinda i guess.
so even if i'm running the cig lighter and LEDs at the same time, they are separate circuits. one doesn't pass into the other.
Correct.
 
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