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Discussion Starter #1
It doesn't warm up for a LONG time just sitting there, so I usually start out when the rpms drop to 1k or so. At that point the oil is still cold, so I'd like to stay out of the turbo, but below 20 degrees, it won't run at less than 2k (it bucks and jerks all over the place) so I have to run to 4.5k in each gear, by which point the turbo is spooling. Any thoughts?
 

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Usually just letting it sit for a minute or two is more than sufficient for it to warm up. When driving, just try keep the RPM's around 3k until it finishes heating.

Even if you're running at 4.5k, it doesn't mean you're boosting, just go easy on the acceleration.
 

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I shift at 2.5k, sometimes a little closer to 3k when the car is warming up. I don't know why you have to wait till 4.5k to shift. I never even rev it up that fast unless I'm trying to accelerate hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I shift at 2.5k, sometimes a little closer to 3k when the car is warming up. I don't know why you have to wait till 4.5k to shift. I never even rev it up that fast unless I'm trying to accelerate hard.
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Because if I shift at 3k, the revs drop to 1.8k in the next gear and it won't run at that when it's cold, that's why I asked the question!
 

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While sitting in the car waiting, please don't forget to open the window a bit to let some fresh air come into the carbin.
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The ACC defaults on outside air and it comes in through the dash vents.
 

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I just let it idle for a minute then drive the car really gently like a grandma for 5-10min depending on the temperature.
 

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Because if I shift at 3k, the revs drop to 1.8k in the next gear and it won't run at that when it's cold, that's why I asked the question!
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Really? When I shift at 2.5-2.6k the revs drop to about 2k. I'm not shifting really fast, just a leisurely shift. If I try to shift to fast, I get that jerk because I'm still revving at 2.3ish and the engine wants to be at 2k for the next gear. If I shift it naturally it falls to 2k and the shift is smooth. The only shift I have problems getting smooth is 1-2, for some reason 2nd gear starts off really low compared to the speed that I shift from 1st (almost as bad as the 3k to 1.8k you speak of). Is your speed dropping like a rock when you press the clutch? I can't see why you'd drop from 3k to 1.8k unless something is wrong.
 

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Pressure loss somewhere in manifold do that?
 

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I prefer to let the car idle untill the engine idle speed drop to about 1100rpm (this only take a couple of minutes even in the really cold weather).

Then, I keep the engine speed below 3000rpm and stay out of boost until the oil temperature warms up. Being able to know the oil temperature during warm-up was the primary reason I elected to install an oil temperature gauge.
 

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I prefer to let the car idle untill the engine idle speed drop to about 1100rpm (this only take a couple of minutes even in the really cold weather).

Then, I keep the engine speed below 3000rpm and stay out of boost until the oil temperature warms up. Being able to know the oil temperature during warm-up was the primary reason I elected to install an oil temperature gauge.
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Here are a couple points:

1. It takes about 90-120 seconds for oil to fully circulate inside the engine. N.B. It could be much longer if it is -40 out (been there, done that)
2. The fastest way to warm up the engine is to let it idle in gear.
3. On my other Turbo, I would not go beyond 3k until the termperature needle actually moved up or until the heater was blowing warm.
 

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Idle in gear?.... Tranny has nothing to do with it....

It is VERY simple... the car cold-starts at 2,000 RPMS for a reason... To get everything going and warmed up as safely and quickly as possible... when it drops down to normal idle RPMs.... it is ready to go... that doeesn't mean its ready to redline in every gear.... Just that you can safely drive it like a normal person... to work or wherever... once the temp-needle reaches 50% range... you're good to do whatever you want....

VERY SIMPLE:

1) Starts at 2000 RPMs.... wait till it hits 750 rpms... takes at MOST 2 min max...

2) Drive normal... shift around 3500 RPMs...

3) When idiot heat guage reaches 50% GO GO GO... (I say idiot, because it is not accurate... it has 3 settings... 1.. cold...2... normal 50%.... and overheating... all the way up...)
 

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Idle in gear?.... Tranny has nothing to do with it....

It is VERY simple... the car cold-starts at 2,000 RPMS for a reason... To get everything going and warmed up as safely and quickly as possible... when it drops down to normal idle RPMs.... it is ready to go... that doeesn't mean its ready to redline in every gear.... Just that you can safely drive it like a normal person... to work or wherever... once the temp-needle reaches 50% range... you're good to do whatever you want....
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Idling in gear keeps a load on the engine and it warms up faster as opposed to idling. Actually, higher cold reving RPM is not that great for a cold engine it just that some engines cannot run "normally" at 750 RPM when it (and the block) is very cold. Many (older) ATX simply stall! FYI: Most of the damage to your engine takes place within the first few minutes after cold starts: it takes a fair bit of time for the oil to fully cover everything.

Did you know that when you start at -40 your oil light could stay on for 10 seconds! That would be great time to gun your engine :nana: and make it go a little quicker... Have you ever seen some moron trying to start an engine and then gun it to 4-5k RPM??

One more thing: you temp gauge measures the temp of the cooling fluid and not that of the actual engine (cylinders). The engine is probably at "normal" operating temp well before you gauge hits "the middle".
 

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Idle in gear?.... Tranny has nothing to do with it....

It is VERY simple... the car cold-starts at 2,000 RPMS for a reason... To get everything going and warmed up as safely and quickly as possible... when it drops down to normal idle RPMs.... it is ready to go... that doeesn't mean its ready to redline in every gear.... Just that you can safely drive it like a normal person... to work or wherever... once the temp-needle reaches 50% range... you're good to do whatever you want....

VERY SIMPLE:

1) Starts at 2000 RPMs.... wait till it hits 750 rpms... takes at MOST 2 min max...

2) Drive normal... shift around 3500 RPMs...

3) When idiot heat guage reaches 50% GO GO GO... (I say idiot, because it is not accurate... it has 3 settings... 1.. cold...2... normal 50%.... and overheating... all the way up...)
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I wait almost as long as 2 mins sometimes but it never hits 750 RPM. It's usually around 1.2-1.3ish when I drive off after 1-2mins of warmup.
 

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put it in first, dump the clutch and hold it at 6k for 5 minutes - it will warm right up.

sorry - couldn't resist - I keep mine in a garage and the temp gauge is in the middle within a mile.
 

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i just let it idle for a minute, and don't use much of the turbo until the temp needle goes to the middle. I don't let the rpm go down to any specific range.

Notice next time you start the car cold, if you pump the clutch (in neutral of course), in slow and out fast, the rpm drops a little every time. So I can get the idle down to 1k in no time. Don't know why, but i thought it was strange for the clutch pedal to change the startup idle like that.
 

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Or we all can just install remote start with turbo feature, thats warms up ur engine evry three hours or on demand when u want it to come out side and take off... :drive:
 

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Or we all can just install remote start with turbo feature, thats warms up ur engine evry three hours or on demand when u want it to come out side and take off... :drive:
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I just leave mine parked, with the engine running. It's ready for me to jump in and WOT down the street at anytime!
 

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My understanding was that the turbo was operating at RPMs greater than 2.5K. I let mine idle for a little more than 1 minute in the morning and it's usually at 1.2K when I leave. I'll try and keep it below 2K until the needle budges. Then I don't worry about it, I just drive normally.
 

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One more thing: you temp gauge measures the temp of the cooling fluid and not that of the actual engine (cylinders). The engine is probably at "normal" operating temp well before you gauge hits "the middle".
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Words of wisdom!
Thank you!
 
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