[Gaz]

hiya iv never changed glow plugs before so some advice would be much appreciated .

To check the plugs with a multimetre do i put the settings onto 200 OHM and put the postive on the tip of the glow plug and negative on a ground to see if most the readings are similiar?

How do i change the glow plugs as i can see some plugs attached,so what do i do after i take the plugs off,is there anything else to remove before taking plugs out?

Iv attached a pic of engine after i took the cover off, thanks.

 

[The Great NY]

typicallly you put the multimeter lead on the Glow plug and then to ground. a good ground so you get the right reading. i've never worked on the diesel 6, but the electrical plugs need to be removed before removing the glow plugs.

the resistance shouldnt be anywhere near 200ohms i dont think. im a diesel tech by trade and have never seen a glow plug have 200ohms of resistance. IIRC the ranges i have seen are usually under 10ohms.

but thats not to say those arent 200ohms.

do you have any mazda literature? what do they say the resistance should be?

 

[Gaz]

Thanks allot for the reply,i think my multimeter only has the 200 ohms setting as the lowest,i definately agree it will be much lower. Il check it out.

My cars done 105k and never had the glow plugs changed from what i can tell from the service book, i guess i prob should change them anyway as car stalls when it gets below -5 so maybe this is the problem.

 

[The Great NY]

Thanks allot for the reply,i think my multimeter only has the 200 ohms setting as the lowest,i definately agree it will be much lower. Il check it out.

My cars done 105k and never had the glow plugs changed from what i can tell from the service book, i guess i prob should change them anyway as car stalls when it gets below -5 so maybe this is the problem.

it stalls while its already running? glowplugs are typically only used when first starting the car to heat the chambers. they are almost always turned off while the car is at operating temps.

i dont think glowplugs would cause the car to stall after its already been running

 

[Gaz]

Thanks for reply, yeah it stalls when the car is at idle for anything over 3 minutes unless i start driving,but even stalls if waiting at traffic lights for some time but seems to be fine after the car temp increases, i had the EGR cleaned and i used some electrical cleaner on the MAF but still happens when the weather goes in to the minuses,do u thinkk it maybe the SCV?

 

[The Great NY]

you know no that you mention it. the SCV usually controls the fuel injection pump. so i think i will side with you and say its the SCV as well.

not sure how much the dealer charges for that part. but im thinking its that SCV too bro. especially with cold weather symptoms you describe.


EDIT:

deeper in thought...im almost 100% certain its the SCV

 

[Robbgt]

i guess i prob should change them anyway as car stalls when it gets below -5 so maybe this is the problem.

Are you running fuel additive to prevent fuel gelling? and are you talking -5F or C? If F, you're very close to the gel point of diesel. I run power-service additive in my truck in the winter to keep it from gelling. May be something you want to look into... Just my .02

 

[The Great NY]

gelling point of Diesel fuel typically depends on the grade of diesel fuel, the additives in the fuel, and water contamination.

When the temperature drops, wax crystals can form in the fuel, plugging the fuel filter and/or fuel line. This will prevent the engine from running. so i want to say gelling isnt the issue here just yet since he says the car runs at least. but you are about right for the gelling temps. Diesel fuel should resist gelling down to about -10 deg. F (-23 deg. C) sometimes a lil more depending on the quality.

OP, do you know if the 6 has a pre-heater for the fuel (again i havent dealt with a diesel 6 yet) i know some heavy duty equipment and commercial vehicle come standard with the heaters in cold climate area. and other have the option. but not sure if the 6 has one

 

[Gaz]

Thanks for the replies guys ;-) yep i mean -5 deg F. I dont use any additives, i was using redex that cleans the engine but read on here that its actually really bad for new model cars so stopped that about 7months ago,i havent heard of an additive for gelling but will sure look in to it if it goes below -10 deg f as THE GREAT NY suggested,thanks again both

 

[Gaz]

Also i checked up the SCV and can get hold of it for about £250, i may just order one and have it ready as weather looks like it'l be getting cold again, im sitting next to my heater whilst typing this ;-D

 

[The Great NY]

check this out too

Power Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boost cetane, reduce emissions, improve fuel economyPower Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boos

 

[Robbgt]

check this out too

Power Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boost cetane, reduce emissions, improve fuel economyPower Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boos

Close, but the 'grey' PS bottle is better suited for the summer months. I run the 'white' PS bottle which has the 'anti-gel' additive in the winter in my F-350 diesel. Not only does help prevent gelling, but cold weather starts are much easier. I don't even plug my block heater in anymore unless it's below 0ºF

Diesel Fuel Supplement® +Cetane Boost®

Winter Performance Benefits:

• Prevents fuel gelling in temperatures as low as -40°F.
• Equals performance of a 50/50 blend of No. 2 and No. 1 diesel fuels
• Lowers Cold-Filter Plugging Point (CFPP) as much as 36°F. — keeps fuel-filters from plugging with wax
• Boosts cetane up to 4 numbers for faster cold starts
• Contains anti-icing additives — protects against fuel-filter icing
• Contains wax anti-settling dispersants — protects against fuel-filter plugging at temperatures below the fuel cloud point