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Lowspeed
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Yup- that's the way they all look.
I've done half a dozen of the AT's and every one has looked like that- some a bit better, some a bit worse, but there's something about that finish that it always looks beat up
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Yup- that's the way they all look.
I've done half a dozen of the AT's and every one has looked like that- some a bit better, some a bit worse, but there's something about that finish that it always looks beat up
Yeah thats what every one is telling me that its normal, I am going to clean it with brake cleaner and lube it with fresh oil before installing
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Wow lol so I havent updated this in a while...

The car currtently have just a little over 128,000 miles. Since the last time I posted not a whole lot have changed with the car..

Last month I installed a resonated test pipe which I traded in a few weeks with a friend that have also have MS6. He had a straight pipe suspension setup and wanted to add a resonator to tune down the exhaust note.

I went from a White Widow resonated to a Turbo SX non resonated 3" test pipe. While I felt a performance improvement with the resonated test pipe over the second cat, it did not provide me with the exhaust note I was looking for. The non resonated test pipe gave me the exhaust note I was looking for, its still quiet at idle but once I am at or over 3k rpm it wakes up.

In order news, today I dropped off my car to a body shop to get fixed from an accident I was involved early last month. While merging into a street the driver behind me got desperate and hit the front driver side front quarter panel, and ran and since it was at night I could not get his licence. I should be getting the car back by the end of the week, and the good thing is that I am going to get the other dents that I got early this year fixed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Another Update, a lot of stuff have happened since the last time I posted.

In January my the clutch pedal bracket broke, and I thought I could get way driving it for a few weeks while I found the time to get it welded and it lead to catastrophic failure, that distroyed the clutch which for the milagle 131k while worn was still good and had more life. Before replacing the clutch I ended up replacing the Clutch pedal, and both the master and slave cyl.

I went with the Fidanza Flywheel and Luk clutch since I am stock and my goals are to get around 300whp which the Luk oem spec is capable of handling.

Since the I did the clutch replacement my self, I decided to do it right, and replaced all the following

-Fidanza Flywheel/Luke oem Clutch
-Mazda OEM Rear main seal.
-Energy Suspension Greasable Swaybar bushing
-Replaced Ps cooler with new hoses and High Pressure hard line
-Outer Tie rod ends
-AWR 88 Pmm(To complete the Trilogy)


It took me a while to get the car done due to the fact that I was working out side, and the weather didnt cooperated and lack of free time between work and baseball. But I finally finished the car last 2 weeks ago and test drove it for a few days.

There are still a few things I still need to get done, Like get an aligment, replace the drive shaft rubber boot that ripped while I was trying to reinstall it to the Tcase. And also find a replacement for the shifter cable end caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Here are the pics of the my progress through the whole install,

The first day on 03/12(Disconnected all the cables/harness, coolant hoses, Disconnected the drive shaft from the Tcase, and removed the Subframe)




Day two(Only drained the Transmission oil, and only had time to remove the driver side axle before it started raining.


This how the Redline MT 90 looks after 1 year(14kmiles) of use, I guess mixed with left over oil from before I had the car.



Day 3 (Removed the Passenger side axle, removed the lower portion the down pipe and test pipe)


Day 4(Removed all the bolts of the Tcase, and ran into problems pulling out the tcase which pronted me to remove the heat shield around the Cat)



Day 5 03/24(Removed the Tcase, and the transmission)



This the condition of the TOB


The pp is actually in good shape, but the little springs are uncompressed so thats part of the issue I think.

 

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Discussion Starter #86
I pulled the pp and clutch. So the autopsy.. Determine the pp spring becoming decompressed, causing the ppl push the clutch to the flywheel where it got shredded

Thats what was left of the clutch friction material on the pp-tranmission side




Surprisingly the flywheel side still had friction material left..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/9ac2f0da83cb3f7ca65ae37381f3db84.jpg


Pic of the comparison of the old and new pressure plate







This how thick the clutch material was when it got shredded


New rear main seal







Cleaned the bell housing the best I could before I put it back in
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Painted the sub frame just for protection,before I reattached the sway bar and steering rack.





Energy Suspension bushings

















The new PS Cooler, managed to bend the fins while trying to connect it to the hoses.


Shiter cable ends,

The caps seems like they were previously glued or they jus fuzed some how and when I removed them they just broke off..



I came up with this temp solution to I could drive the car, which out the cables popping out
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
I bought a 3" JBR intake that I tried to install last week as I was correcting a coolant leak but I could not get it installed correctly to fit with the battery tray. I will try in again in a few weeks..



Yesterday finally replaced the PMM with a 88Duro AWR, to complete the trilogy, I wish I had one it sooner as the engine I am not getting more vibes as I was expecting.






Oh and Almost forgot that I got new strut braces hats or what ever they are called that I will be replacing in the next few day when I get a chance to clean the engine bay.



My future Maintenance and mods plans are as follow

Install 3" JBR intake and get a tune

Bilstein B8 Struts
H&R or eibach pro kit Springs
Order PolyUtherine Bushings
Adjustable rear camber arms
Change rear swaybar bushings
Rear diff mounts(Hopefully get it done while I do the suspension)

and hopefully next year

BNR S3 or CS Turbo
Down pipe
Upgraded TMIC
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Its been a while since I updated this, I am having trouble with my account through the web browser, some how I was able to log in through Tapatalk on my phone as it remembered my last password. I will have to message a Forum admin to get this fixed.

Current Update,
Aug 2016: Bought H&R Springs and Bilstein B8. Still pending Installation.

Dec 2016-Jan 2017 : The aftermarket Slave/Master Cyl I installed last year when I replaced the Clutch failed.

Fixed the issue after getting a new OEM slave and Master cylinder.

Mar 2017 :
Ordered a new coupler for my Srim/tip since the one that came with it seems to have stretched since it was previously installed in BNR s3.

Ordered new oem rear Upper control arms.

Ordered new summer tires for my RX8 wheels. 235/40-18 Hankook V12 Evo 2. That I should be getting tomorrow.

Fast forward today:

Started prepping the car to install the suspension. Got the car on jack stands early this morning before I left for work, and sprayed pb blaster on all the bolts. Hopefully this evening I am going to attempt to do the rear suspension first since I know itd going to be more difficult.


I was hoping to do a full refresh on the rear suspension and drop the subframe to clean it and rust proof it. But my limited budget and the lack of a garage wont allow me to do that.


I might need to use a torch just to make sure I don't snap any of the bolts. The bracket look ugly so I am hoping it's just surface rust that I can clean and hopefully paint it with rust proofing paint.





Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

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Lowspeed
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So glad I live in Florida :)

You'll want to plan on lowering the rear subframe just a bit to make it easier getting the upper shock mounts out- it's darn tight up there and having the subframe down ~1 inch makes it much, MUCH easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #91 (Edited)
So glad I live in Florida :)

You'll want to plan on lowering the rear subframe just a bit to make it easier getting the upper shock mounts out- it's darn tight up there and having the subframe down ~1 inch makes it much, MUCH easier.
Yeah man it sucks, I am not sure it you remember that a few years ago, when my upper control arm bolt rusted and broke too smh :(

Once I have a house with a garage, I am hoping to drop the subframe and clean it repaint it, like I did with the front subframe.


Thanks for the tip by the way. I will try that some ppl tell me I should be able to remove it with out touching the Subframe and others tell me they had to lower it..
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Managed to remove the rear suspension last night, it took me about 4-5hrs smh.. Obviously most the time spent trying to remove the brackets.. I lowered the subframe a little, but I still have tough time trying to get a good angle to attach the socket. I guess I should have a bought an actual swivel sockets instead the swivel adapters.

Surprisingly the brackets only have surface rust, and they are structurally in good shape so I should be able to brush off the rust, sand them down a little and paint them.

To my surprise I found out that in the near future I will need to replace the rear driver side axle since the inner CV boot is ripped and leaking grease.. :(



 

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Lowspeed
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Nice- that's a Speed6 merit badge right there! Kinda like having a dp-turbo gasket, it's pretty boss to be able to say you've been there, done that :)

lolz- pull the shock bracket without lowering the subframe... It'd take some pretty magical tools and tiny hands huh?

First time I did it I cussed at it for about an hour before finally lowering the subframe just barely enough, left the subframe nuts on a few threads. Second time was helping another owner, and we left the subframe just barely on the studs, just enough to make raising it back up easy, and really liked having the extra space. You can go down another couple of inches and still be on the studs if you're careful...
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Nice- that's a Speed6 merit badge right there! Kinda like having a dp-turbo gasket, it's pretty boss to be able to say you've been there, done that :)

lolz- pull the shock bracket without lowering the subframe... It'd take some pretty magical tools and tiny hands huh?

First time I did it I cussed at it for about an hour before finally lowering the subframe just barely enough, left the subframe nuts on a few threads. Second time was helping another owner, and we left the subframe just barely on the studs, just enough to make raising it back up easy, and really liked having the extra space. You can go down another couple of inches and still be on the studs if you're careful...
Lol thanks, I take pride on being able to work/fix my car, I am probably stubborn and a masochist for putting my self through this with out having the proper space/facility to work on the car since I do the work on the ally driveway behind my house. But at the end its worth it. Lol I guess I will probably find out about the dp turbo gasket later on..


Hahaha No small hands here lol. Part of my problem was related to not having the right combination of tools even though I got a swivel impact adapter, I only have deep impact sockets so I had to switch to 3/8s and use an 1/2 adapter for my impact extensions.

I did loosen the subframe but I didnt fully remove the nuts from the studs, but I could not get it to go lower. I think part of my problem was that it was being held by the exhaust, I didnt feel like removing them from the hangers lol.. I will probably will look into doing that and make sure I slower it more when it comes time to put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Getting closer to being ready for AutoX this Saturday.. Just got from getting the tires mounted and balanced..






Did the front suspension last night it was super easy to remove and install. The only issue I had was removing the shaft cyl nut to remove the strut hat. I forgot to order new ones, which I am porbably going to do in the next few days if I run into issues and replace them later this summer.



.
 

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Lowspeed
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Impact gun should make short work of em. I gave up trying to get the top nut off with hand tools. And don't forget the spring compressor or you'll have a very bad day... :)

The bearing in the top for the Speed6 are actually pretty darn good- you will probably be able to clean em and add a bit of fresh grease then reassemble. Unlike the horrid short life units the Speed3 got

Also, the tops have a spot you can run a bolt into to keep em aligned- you don't need to put a bolt in there, but do be sure to position them correctly during reinstall or the threaded lower bit can make contact with one of the mount studs limiting movement and making odd noises.
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
Impact gun should make short work of em. I gave up trying to get the top nut off with hand tools. And don't forget the spring compressor or you'll have a very bad day... :)

The bearing in the top for the Speed6 are actually pretty darn good- you will probably be able to clean em and add a bit of fresh grease then reassemble. Unlike the horrid short life units the Speed3 got

Also, the tops have a spot you can run a bolt into to keep em aligned- you don't need to put a bolt in there, but do be sure to position them correctly during reinstall or the threaded lower bit can make contact with one of the mount studs limiting movement and making odd noises.

Yeah I got the fronts installed last night, didnt have to much trouble aligning the strut hat with the holes. I did use a a spring compressor for this job. Using my electric impact gun helped a lot with a lot of things.


Good to know, I wont worry about changing the hat/bearin. Thats exactly what I did I cleaned the bearing with a wire brush and applied greas.



 
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