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Discussion Starter #1
Just reached 100,000 on my 06 MS6, this is my daily driver and I am driving an average of 300miles a week. I got the car 3month ago at the end of July with 94+k miles.

I know this is a high maintenance car, and I am trying to make sure I take care of it. Unfortunately at the time of the purchase the dealer did not provide me a full history of the maintenance/repairs. After contacting Mazda I they were able to tell me that the Turbo was replaced around 15-35k, I guess that should give me a peace of mind about the smoking turbo issue.


I want ask you guys besides oil/fluids change, and brakes what should parts/components normally ware out around this millage that I should keep an eye for? and is there are any known issue that normally come up around this millage.

 

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My car is about at the same point in mileage as yours so I am definitely interested in the thread, this is a great question!

I also have been modifying my car some so how would some of these play into it as well?
 

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Hmm... Do you know if the vvt,chain and tensioner been replaced? Also might want to clean valves if you haven't done so, I know thats the next thing on my list..
 

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Clean valves and runners
Clean intake manifold
Clean Trottle body
Clean EGR valve and tube
Clean/replace pcv valve
Drain diff, pto, trans
Spark plug check - replace if needed
Check for any air leaks via boost leak tester
Consider getting injectors cleaned
Check for any oil leaks
Compression and leakdown test
Vvt may need replacing, along with chain and other required items


Im sure there is more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses guys! that gives me a better idea of what lays ahead and what things I should take care in preventive maintenance.


Hmm... Do you know if the vvt,chain and tensioner been replaced? Also might want to clean valves if you haven't done so, I know thats the next thing on my list..
I dont really know, I know the turbo was replaced beacuse I contacted Mazda but they were not willing to tell me what else was replaced with the turbo. I will have to contact the dealer and see if they can get the answer from the previous owner.

Clean valves and runners
Clean intake manifold
Clean Trottle body
Clean EGR valve and tube
Clean/replace pcv valve
Drain diff, pto, trans
Spark plug check - replace if needed
Check for any air leaks via boost leak tester
Consider getting injectors cleaned
Check for any oil leaks
Compression and leakdown test
Vvt may need replacing, along with chain and other required items


Im sure there is more.
Read the sticky in my sig, covers this exact topic :)
Thanks I will start reading right now..
 

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I dont really know, I know the turbo was replaced beacuse I contacted Mazda but they were not willing to tell me what else was replaced with the turbo. I will have to contact the dealer and see if they can get the answer from the previous owner.
If you go befriend your local service adviser they will be able to print out the vehicle's service history, which includes warranty work; they won't give you the previous owners contact information.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you go befriend your local service adviser they will be able to print out the vehicle's service history, which includes warranty work;
That what I will probably have to do lol, the dealer that I got it from is a Nissan Dealer.. Do you think they have access to that info or do I need to go to a Mazda dealer to get it?

they won't give you the previous owners contact information.
Yeah I know but I dont need the PO contact info, which apparently is included in the report. Thats what I was told by the Mazda customer service rep that talked to when I was trying to get the service history of the car. I asked her if she could email me the car service history but she refused because she said that the PO info was attached to the report.
 

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I just called my local mazda dealer. She was nice and gave me the scoop.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks that sounds good, I call my local dealer then. The first time I called the Mazda USA 1-800 number which is why the lady didnt provide me the info.
 

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If you go befriend your local service adviser they will be able to print out the vehicle's service history, which includes warranty work; they won't give you the previous owners contact information.
My local service manager hates me. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright went by a Mazda dealer not that far from where I work, which shares the same service dept as the Nissan dealer where I bought the car.

They were able to provide me with the history but it doesnt say much as it only provide the history of the car since 2010 until the months before I bought the car and it does not have the Warranty work done by Mazda in 2008.

Here is the history.

- 03/10/10 -
Tire Rotation
Transmission Service

- 03/31/11 -
Cabin Air Filter,
BG Cooling SYS F( Coolant Flush?)
Steering Concern

- 03/23/12-

Oil/Filter
Tire Rotaton
Front Brake Replac
Marker Lights
Tires Green(?)
Brake Green(?)
Battery Green

- 03/12/13 -

5,000 Service ( ? )
MPI ( ? )

- 07/09/13 -

3,750 Service (?)
2 Tires
REPLACE REAR Brake
 

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I'm assuming the things with question marks are the things you aren't sure about? The "green" after tires, brakes, etc. just means that when it was inspected they checked out in the "green zone" meaning plenty of tread left and so on. Guessing "MPI" just meaning Multi-Point Inspection. What do you mean by "2 Tires"? You do have all four identical tires, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I'm assuming the things with question marks are the things you aren't sure about? The "green" after tires, brakes, etc. just means that when it was inspected they checked out in the "green zone" meaning plenty of tread left and so on.
Yeah that what I assume with the (gree) after those components but wasnt completely sure.

Guessing "MPI" just meaning Multi-Point Inspection. What do you mean by "2 Tires"? You do have all four identical tires, correct?
Aparently when the dealer got the car the 2 rear tires were bad or worn, and they went the cheap way and replaced the 2 rear tires with Nexens CP672, instead of putting in Continental Contact DWS which I assume its what it had since thats what the car had on front when I bought it.
 

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I don't think the DWSs were the stock tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't think the DWSs were the stock tires.
Yeah I know they are not the stock tires but thats what the previous owner had on the car when they sold/traded the car to the dealer.
 

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Yeah I know they are not the stock tires but thats what the previous owner had on the car when they sold/traded the car to the dealer.
Sounds like he didn't rotate tires often, either. Maybe, if money allows, buy four new tires?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds like he didn't rotate tires often, either. Maybe, if money allows, buy four new tires?
I want to but that provably wont happen until next year..

something that made me mad was the fact that not even a week after getting the car I hit a pothole and the front driver side got a bulge :angry2: and I had to get it replaced with the another DWS in order to at least have 2 matching at the front and 2 of the same on the rear.
 

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The only electronic control is located at/in the coupler unit that makes up the nose of the rear diff. The PTO, or transfer case, is 100% mechanical and actively transfers torque to the rear 100% of the time. The coupler unit decides how much of that torque is passed to the rear diff.

The front is an open diff, and is the only area that has any leeway for tire diameter, but given enough time the difference in rotation will start to wear on the PTO.

The rear is a limited slip which means that differences in rolling diameter will be seen as slip and will trigger the diff to lock, and then to bind & release repeatedly as the differing diameters are traveling different distances down the road. Over time this can & will damage the rear diff.

I know it seems like the system should have enough flexibility built in to handle things like variations in tire diameter, and it does to a small extent- Enough to handle daily driving chores and difference caused by minor variances from tire inflation.

But, and this holds true for every Full Time AWD car out there, as a general rule the tires must be matched in rotating diameter or the system will, somewhere within it's connections, work against itself and cause problems. Some have more leeway than others, but they all follow the same core guideline.

Tires
- When replacing tires, always replace
all front and rear tires at the same time.

- All tires must be of the same size,
manufacture, brand and tread pattern.
Pay particular attention when
equipping snow or other types of
winter tires.

- Do not mix tread-worn tires with
normal tires.

- Inspect tire inflation pressures at the
specified periods and adjust to the
specified pressures.

- Make sure to equip the vehicle with
genuine wheels of the specified size,
on all wheels. With AWD, the system
is calibrated for all four wheels being
of the same dimensions.

**If the vehicle requires towing, have it
towed with all four wheels completely off
the ground. But, you ask, What about the spare tire??

A great question! You can search here and will find several posts about diff or PTO damage after running on the spare for more than just a mile or two. Yeah, special. I'll refer you back to the line from the manual "With AWD, the system is calibrated for all four wheels being of the same dimensions." You'd be correct in mentioning that the same Owners Manual does /not/ cover that bit when it talks about use & maintenance of the spare. Yeah, again, special. Allow me to remind you that Mazda hates you.

Proper tire diameter, and the need to sometimes replace all four rather than just one, is the price of admission to AWD awesomeness.
I found this reply from @TiGraySpeed6 to be really helpful when I was wondering whether I should replace all 4 or if I could get away with two. IMO I decided to pay a little extra for all 4. (I'd rather be buying new tires than a new rear diff)
 
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