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2005 Mazda 6i Hatchback
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Hey guys, my wife bought a 2005 Mazda 6i hatchback a few months ago and the headlights suck. My car has HIDs and she loves them so for Christmas i got her a plug and play kit, when i was installing it one of the bulbs wouldn't work once i turned it off and back on. I followed the manufacturer's troubleshooting guide and deemed it was a bad bulb and asked for a replacement and they sent me a whole new kit just to be safe. Now I'm not the best with mechanics and I don't know anything about electrical really. My car has a full retrofit hid conversion that was installed before I bought it but my high beams are the normal halogen bulb so it gets that ugly yellow color when they are on. Anyways, now for her car I have 2 kits and 3 good bulbs. I purchased 8000k 35w bulbs with the warning canceller and slim ballast. If I ordered the other bulb would I be able to install them for both high and low beams without issues? I'm wondering if it would drain the battery or blow fuses or anything like that and what I would need to do to correct it. If it's not feasible then I'll keep the extras for replacements or something down the road and would love to hear any ideas you guys have instead but I can't stand the stock lights anymore. Thanks in advance!
 

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HI, I am no expert but you should not have any issues since you are replacing a 55W bulb with a 35W one so there is no risk of overheating any components.
Be mindful that the headlight housing designed for halogen lightbulbs might give you a different light pattern with LEDs/HIDs.
 

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HI, I am no expert but you should not have any issues since you are replacing a 55W bulb with a 35W one so there is no risk of overheating any components.
Be mindful that the headlight housing designed for halogen lightbulbs might give you a different light pattern with LEDs/HIDs.
Thanks you I've been trying to get a clear answer everywhere lol. They recommend 20a fuses for the kit instead of the 15a ones I think are in currently, will that still be alright or should I use a higher rated fuse? Also I've been reading about the different light patterns, do you know of any headlight assemblies meant for HIDs? Or at least point me in the right direction to find some?
 

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Polish the lenses. You should never put anything higher than 6000K as they will be too blue and have less output.
Or they like the color the 8000k put out - That seems about the most blue you can get before police get upset from what others have told me. Could always go with the 55w instead of 35, which will wash out a bit of the blue from the 8000k and get them closer to 6000k, but then you might be blinding oncoming traffic.

OP - The assemblies should be ready for HIDs since that was a factory option. I remember there being a trim/year that might not be suited for them though, so someone will have to verify that for me. You shouldn't need to replace the fuses but it's not going to hurt to do so if they're telling you to.
 

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I wouldn't change the fuses. If there is a short or things overheat, the wires (designed to carry 15 amp) might fry with a 20 amp fuse and then you'll be replacing a wire harness and/or connectors.
Going from 55 to 35 W should not need that.

Now, I did replace my 55's with 100W halogen lightbulbs on a 323 and 626 I owned a couple decades ago, never replaced the fuses and never had wires overheated... but don't do what I did.
 

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OP - The assemblies should be ready for HIDs since that was a factory option. I remember there being a trim/year that might not be suited for them though, so someone will have to verify that for me.
I think the headlights are different, at least they were for the 2006.
See this link:
Mazda 6 2006 headlights
This page shows GP7B510L0B for left halogen and GP7C51041C for left HID.
 
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@Mystery710
To answer your question OP, as long as the bulb can plug into the ballast, and is compatible with the voltage, it will work fine. The only other consideration is if it fits into the housing spot, and in this case, you are in business, because they are both H1. The bulb does not care if it is high or low. Just keep in mind that the flash-to-pass does not work well (and can be damaged with flashing) with HID bulbs.
The Mazda 6's that came with HID used a D2S bulb. That is very different than an H1 retrofit. In the case of factory HID's you can change the bulb (quality/temp) but it has tto be with a D2S variety.

As I have gotten older I do not see as well at night.
The best illumination I have achieved on the road is with the following in a 2004 Mazda 6
  1. Polish the light covers (they need it every 6 months) or replace the covers.
  2. HID running at 55w and 4500K-5000K color temp. (The range that the human eye can use is best served by this range if I am to believe my medical school studies. It should be noted that a small percentage of the population possess a genetic variation and are poly-conal. Those individuals may have 4 or more different cone ranges. Those individuals may be able to utilize different color ranges effectively as they also experience different colors.)
  3. If you wear glasses keep them clean along with your windscreen (inside and out).
The HID will sit in a halogen protector differently and as a result scatter a bit. You can fix this by moving the cut-off inside the projector away from the bulb a bit.

241875

Above image showing HID bulb (4500K @ 55W & remote relay) installed into low-beam halogen projector with no cut-off modifications

If you are going for the look, then do whatever floats your boat. We have night time where I live and I need to see. 😜
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you everyone this has been super helpful! I'm going to install the new kit this weekend and I'll order the other bulb and install the high beams if she likes them still after a little bit. This is her dream car she's so excited to have it so if anyone has any other fairly simple modification ideas Id love to hear them, I'm sure I'll be in these forums quite often now haha
 

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Thank you everyone this has been super helpful! I'm going to install the new kit this weekend and I'll order the other bulb and install the high beams if she likes them still after a little bit. This is her dream car she's so excited to have it so if anyone has any other fairly simple modification ideas Id love to hear them, I'm sure I'll be in these forums quite often now haha
Great to hear. If you find that the 8000K bulbs are not giving enough light you could drop to a 5000K or 6000K by just replacing the bulbs and using your existing ballasts. 👍
If you want to add some color tint (but still have a lot of road illuminating luminosity) you could also put a colored LED 194 in the low beam reflector parking spot of the headlamp. Just be advised you cannot use any forward facing blue or red in the United States unless you are an emergency vehicle.
Show us how it turns out.
 

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A note about fuses was brought up, they are in a circuit to protect the wiring, not the component because wiring is far more difficult to replace, sometimes near impossible to replace vs the component. I say that about replacing wiring from experience but not from installing higher rated fuse. Anyone ever seen inside of the cockpit of a commercial jet aircraft, you will see many circuit breaker panels, overhead and behind the pilots. With miles of wiring in aircraft, protected circuits are a must. That was my occupation, to keep them flying.
This wiring disaster happened to me. Many years ago I walked out of the house to see smoke pouring out between the hood and fenders of my 1964 Mercury Marauder. A hot wire had shorted to the chassis and took out all the wiring under the hood and instrument panel including the fuse panel under the dash. I replaced all the wiring myself, gotten from a junk yard. This was caused by faulty engineering at Ford to have an unprotected wire (no fuse) between the battery and voltage regulator, each on opposite sides of the car. The single wire passed through a metal panel with no rubber grommet to protect that wire. Years of vibration chaffed the insulation to eventually expose the wire inside causing a direct short to ground. That none fused wire took out all the wiring from dash forward. Actually a few wires got so hot they melted the plastic insulation on all the wires surrounding the shorted wire creating a melted plastic mess in the harnesses, no saving any of it. In those days they also ran a hot wire from the battery to the amp meter in the dash panel to indicate battery charging or discharging. That wire size to guess after these years would have been about 12 gauge, it probably did the damage to the wiring harnesses. Alternators back then put out about 35 amps. Mine had 4 on the floor with 390 cid, 11 MPG premium fuel engine and exactly like one pictured.

241940
 

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i replaced my hid's (8k at 55w) with LEDs and so far it's been great, they even come with heatsinks and a fan that runs all the time... i have the low beams, the fogs on led and the highbeams and running lights on halogen.
Also have the in-lamp fogs running led.
 
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