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Discussion Starter #1
Ok 1st off this is premature but I wanted to post some peak numbers and get your opinions. It's premature because I do not have a copy of the Dyno sheet yet to post.

The only aftermarket stuff I added was a CP-E intake. A Dynopack Dyno was used (basically they remove your wheels and hook your Hub's directly to the Dyno.) and I have been told they do simulate load like a Mustang Dyno. So for you Dynojet guy's add about 8-10% to these numbers. I am not 100% positive about it being loan bearing so maybe some of you guy's can chime in.

Peak HP was 235hp at 5500rpm
Peak Torque was (are you sitting down) 299ftlbs at 4000rpm

As soon as I have the Dyno sheet's I will post them. It was probably 85-88 degree in the shop and it was a litle on the Humid side (typical for GA. this time of year). I have to be honest I was a little disappointed at the hp # since TitaniumMS6 actually had a higher number with the same intake. The dyno also tracked Boost and if I remember correctly my boost spiked at 17psi dropped to 15psi and was down to almost 13psi by 5800rpm. I can not remember to 100% accuracy until I can get a copy of the Dyno sheet that will have the boost curve on it as well, but even the Tuner guy was a little puzzled. So what do you think?
 

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If that read just like a mustang dyno those are REALLY good numbers. My buddy with his old wrx setup ran 230 on a mustang and he had a vf22 turbo, lots of supporting mods, so 235 is very respectable, congrats. BTW, what gear was this dynoed in 3rd im guessing?
 

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If that read just like a mustang dyno those are REALLY good numbers.
[/b]

Standard rule with cars and performance:

you cannot compare one dyno to another


too much variance, etc...

consider dyno #'s "ballpark" figures at all times...the only time it really matters is when you have a stock baseline then alter the vehicle from there while testing on the same dyno
 

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Standard rule with cars and performance:

you cannot compare one dyno to another
too much variance, etc...

consider dyno #'s "ballpark" figures at all times...the only time it really matters is when you have a stock baseline then alter the vehicle from there while testing on the same dyno
[/b]
I agree, I didn't mean EXACTLY like a mustang just comparing it between a dynojet and a mustang if its reading near mustang type numbers than its solid.
 

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If you remove the wheels, you actually gain power on the dyno.
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i suppose that would depend on the amount of load the dyno adds to compensate for the removed wheels.
 

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Dynapak Dynos are quite unique. You can't compare their numbers with either a Mustang or a Dynojet dyno and the method they use to determine power doesn't yield a general conversion rate like you can use to get a rough idea of what a Mustang run would get on a Dynojet.

Dynapaks are damn good dynos though. Arguably the best there is. But you can't use your readings to compare at all with a Dynojet. But they are (if they operator doesn't screw things up which is easy) highly consistent. So you can compare your own runs to your own runs with a higher degree of reliability. It'd be interesting to see a run with your CAI removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ATL Subaru of Gwinnett had the Dynapac Dyno. The guy that runs the performance shop operates the dyno. He has a driving school he does at Taladaga in Alabama. He is also a tuner. I got his name from Ed Senf the Dyno Tuner. His last name is Seigal can not seem to remembe hia 1st name.

The rerason I am asking about differences is because I am only used to a Dynojet (which usually yields higher #'s than a Mustang Dyno). Not because I think one is better than the other.

Sigma do you know if they it is a loaded dyno or ernertia dyno. I know with my Mustang on the Mustang Dyno it put down like 450hp and the Dynojet it did right at 500hp (to the wheels). I will tell you this about this Dynapac though I did about 8 pulls and they were all within 1-3hp of each other. Pretty consistant

What I really want to know if this seemed like respectible numbers I was wanting something more I guess.
 

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A Dynapak is a actually a true loading dyno. It's as accurate as they come in all reality without yanking the engine out of the car.

It's biggest plus as you noted is repeatability and consistency. If you noticed a 3hp difference between runs, that's actually high for a Dynapak.

It would be impossible to tell if you for sure your pulls were "respectable" since there's really no way to compare runs with others out there, though I have little doubt that they are quite good.
 

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ATL Subaru of Gwinnett had the Dynapac Dyno. The guy that runs the performance shop operates the dyno. He has a driving school he does at Taladaga in Alabama. He is also a tuner. I got his name from Ed Senf the Dyno Tuner. His last name is Seigal can not seem to remembe hia 1st name.

[/b]
Scott Siegal is his name....he's served many STi's very well w/ tuning and many owners well with solid driving school sessions. :drive:
 

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$140 bucks is $140 bucks.. if your really interested in finding out ur power numbers, sure. That's not an unreasonable price for a dyno. Plus I'm sure we'd all like to see your numbers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sigma I think it had more to do with some heat soak more than anything. He let it idle between runs and he was running the A/C (kind of pissed about that, but it's his shop and his Dyno so I did not say anything). Don't ask me why I guess he was hot :irate: :swearin:. He had a cool contraption that was basically a Box that fit over the intercooler and he attached a leaf blower to it to blow air over the intercooler. Very Cavemanish but it worked :laugh: . I have a picture of it I will post it tommorrow.

He charged me $100 for basically 8-9 pulls (can't remember). He usually charges that for only 3-4 pulls for HP/Torque. He was monitoring my boost as well. He was putting the gear ratio into the system and he was trying to figure out what they were and I forgot to print them out. He made all pulls in 4th gear from about 1500rpm
 

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Interesting about the A/C...
I know of a shop here in DFW that just got an AWD Dynopak dyno installed.
Thats probably where i will go.
 

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With the AC on, the radiator fans kick on, helping lower coolant temperatures. Without the AC on, you must wait for the thermostat to rise before the radiator fans kick on.
 

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A Dynapak is a actually a true loading dyno. It's as accurate as they come in all reality without yanking the engine out of the car.

It's biggest plus as you noted is repeatability and consistency. If you noticed a 3hp difference between runs, that's actually high for a Dynapak.

It would be impossible to tell if you for sure your pulls were "respectable" since there's really no way to compare runs with others out there, though I have little doubt that they are quite good.
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Correct, the Dynapak is a brake dyno (or a loading dyno) similar to a Mustang dyno or a few other lesser-known brands. The difference compared to a Mustang dyno is that it is physically mounted to the hub, whereas a Mustang dyno requires the car be driven on top of rollers. It's a hub dyno versus a wheel dyno, but both are brake dynos.

Slightly off topic here, but I always found it interesting how much lower brake dynos that measured horsepower to the wheels are compared to those measured at the hub. Since a brake dyno can hold the car at a constant RPM (or have RPMs rise very slowly), the inertial losses of the wheels and tires can be completely eliminated. The huge horsepower difference can only come from the lack of friction between the tire and rollers. Thus, losses due to tire friction are worth roughly 30hp.

I bet dynojet dynos dyno higher at least partially because their rollers are a larger diameter, which reduces tire friction.

However, as you said, dynapak (or brake dynos in general) are a huge plus. Inertial dynos (the other kind of dyno) are unreliable because, among other reasons, so few data points are taken during the dyno. Dynojet dynos are garbage, but unfortunately (probably because they dyno so much higher than Mustang dynos), they've become somewhat of an industry standard.
 

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Curious what octane gas did you have in the tank? It would be interesting to dyno the car with 91 octane and then run the car with 100 octane. Bet the outcome would be a lot different.
 

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With the AC on, the radiator fans kick on, helping lower coolant temperatures. Without the AC on, you must wait for the thermostat to rise before the radiator fans kick on.
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IIRC Crossbow posted that under WOT the AC automatically kicked off...??
 
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