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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently purchase aftermarket head unit from Seciane.com. I purchased THIS one specifically. It's listed as plug and play but I must be missing something because none of this stuff plugs together at all. Has anyone ever installed one of these or something similar? Am I missing an adapter hardness or something? I'm very confused. I've attached pictures of everything below:

My stock head unit and connections:
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Light Auto part Electronic device Electric blue Cable


The aftermarket Android Head unit:
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@Rpkist77:
Here's a thread that should help

Straight to the hot

OP had the wrong harness for the Bose, but very helpful thread.
His does appear similar to mine, the red connector appears identical, but besides that every other connector looks different.

I will remove the glovebox when I get home today and give it a shot and update this thread. I did reach out to Seicane and supposedly they're going to send me some wires, but the shipping took forever from China originally so I'm not holding my breath. Unsurprisingly, they have no installation videos at all for this unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just as an update, I got home and removed the glove box, and found the factory amp. The connector going into the amp does fit directly into the red connector on the seicane, as well as the silver radio connector, though the wire the one the Seicane is very short, so I could only plug it in down by the amp. But it did power on and I was able to get both a radio signal and play sound over the speakers, so that's an improvement. I will post pictures in a bit, and I will investigate to see if the cable that plugged into the amp before can be rerouted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats not the amp, thats the TAU... read the thread in my sig.
My bad, I read all of the threads in your signature. At any rate, it does work with the cable unplugged from the TAU and plugged into the head unit, but I see no way at all to connect the steering wheel or backup cam or anything else. And it looks like the cable that was in the TAU converges back into the main harness and can't be ran by itself back up to where the head unit will sit, and the head unit cables are tiny. It's like they designed this product and never actually installed it in a car. And also the replacement command knob doesn't even work lol.
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You have to expand to see the Bose break down thread. Yea, just another example of why Aux In is the best for these cars. Keep the HU and replace the Bose amp and or speakers. If you keep the Bose speakers, then Aux In will be a better signal than the speakers can reproduce anyway. I use Neutron Player app which has a lot of plugins, mainly use the EQ and PreAmp features and it turns the Bose system into a decent system.

Or, get a really good BT module, or DSP like the Dayton 408 and use your phone as the source, bypassing the CMU for audio. The Bose is all line level, so you can just put RCA's on the wires and run the DSP or BT module right into the Bose amp, or whatever amp you want to replace it with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I read through that thread. My car is not a Bose system however. Is it possible that they can create adapters for the existing head unit connections to work with this without having run down the TAU? Or is the TAU going to have to be taken out of the equation entirely?
 

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Yes I read through that thread. My car is not a Bose system however.
Doesnt matter, the only difference is the Bose amp, all the wiring is the same. Yea, with a new HU, the TAU is no longer needed, but now the backup cam, GPS, Sirius, wheel/commander controls and blue tooth wont work. Its not worth it to me to lose the car controls at minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Out of curiosity, what was your primary reasons for replacing the headunit? I had considered it as well, but the primary reason was accomplished while retaining the headunit.
I found the existing OS on the head unit to be very buggy, and I have the ghosting screen issue that causes it to randomly press the screen. Also wanted Apple Carplay, which I know you can do a firmware upgrade for, but I tried running android auto frim an android phone on it and it ran like garbage. So I assumed Carplay would too run terribly. Plus the bigger better screen was a plus as well.
 

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I found the existing OS on the head unit to be very buggy, and I have the ghosting screen issue that causes it to randomly press the screen. Also wanted Apple Carplay, which I know you can do a firmware upgrade for, but I tried running android auto frim an android phone on it and it ran like garbage. So I assumed Carplay would too run terribly. Plus the bigger better screen was a plus as well.
Well that answered my next question. Sounds like you already have the Carplay/AA module installed if a firmware update is all you need to use both. My 2016 needs to have a module and cable swapped in the center console before either are available, which was going to be my suggestion if that was your main reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well that answered my next question. Sounds like you already have the Carplay/AA module installed if a firmware update is all you need to use both. My 2016 needs to have a module and cable swapped in the center console before either are available, which was going to be my suggestion if that was your main reason.
I was incorrect on that, I would've had to buy the new module in the arm rest and THEN do a firmware upgrade. I got Android Auto working via a custom firmware that ran on the old module, but it was practically unusable.
 

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I was incorrect on that, I would've had to buy the new module in the arm rest and THEN do a firmware upgrade. I got Android Auto working via a custom firmware that ran on the old module, but it was practically unusable.
Okay that makes more sense. Was curious how a firmware upgrade alone would do it but wasn't going to look into it at the moment to check its validity lol.

I think there are a couple posts on here of people getting an aftermarket HU and retaining the factory controls, but I don't have the links saved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay that makes more sense. Was curious how a firmware upgrade alone would do it but wasn't going to look into it at the moment to check its validity lol.

I think there are a couple posts on here of people getting an aftermarket HU and retaining the factory controls, but I don't have the links saved.
I've done some more research and taken the aftermarket head unit apart. Luckily it has a screen that tells you all of the pinouts for the connections on it, I'm just trying to find the correct pinout arrangement for my car, as the ones on the internet appear to be for an older version of the mazda 6, which I think is why certain things don't work. The included red female port on this head unit is missing some pins that my car has, key1 and key2 especially, which would explain the Steering Wheel Controls not working. I may add those pins to it, as well as extend the wires that came with it so I can actually make it reach the center console where it's supposed to be. I will update this thread if/when I get it completely working with all the steps I had to take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here's a question for someone, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the wire that runs from the speakers into the TAU? Looking at my aftermarket headunit, some of the wires are missing or don't line up, which is probably why my steering wheel controls don't work.
This is the wiring diagram for the input connector on he new head unit:
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This is the other end of the connection displayed above:
Circuit component Musical instrument Passive circuit component Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory


And this is the connector that is being unplugged from the TAU and plugged straight into that Red Connector.
Finger Thumb Cable Wrist Natural material

White Finger Networking cables Circuit component Electrical wiring


What you may notice is that the inner wires don't all match up. And I'm guessing 2 of those wires are key1 and key2. I just need a wiring diagram so I can find out. The ones I've seen online don't matchup exactly to that. I'm guessing they're for an older pin layout for older Mazda's?
 

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