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Hard downshifts

651 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Tbrooks_26
I recently was given a 2006 mazda 6 with a transmission issue. It is the v6, w/ 6 speed aw6a transmission. It downs shifts hard into all gears, but especially when going into 2nd, presumably because the rpms are usually higher. I mean real hard, it can be seen when someone is following me. Other wise the car runs and drives fine. I took it to a local shop, but there were no transmission codes. They simply told me I needed a new transmission. So, I'm going to pull the transmission out and rebuild it. However I was hoping someone might know the cause of this hard shifting so that I can make sure I get what I need. Wondering if a new valve body is needed. I've just ordered the Mazda transmission manual, but I'm not sure what it will give me for specs. I don't know much about transmissions, but I rebuilt my e4od 5 years ago, and it has been doing great. Thanks for any help.
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I would start with a fluid/filter change before anything. @DrFeelGood
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I agree with Talon, I have been amazed how much can be done with clean fluids and a transmission. I had terrible shift shock in my JA5A that improved significantly with the first fluid change. I did 2 more drain and refills and now do a drain and refill every 30,000miles. The problem has not returned (~80,000miles)

AW6A Service manual
Can confirm.
I'm not on an as aggressive cycle as Dr.F, but do change fluid every 60k (after initial 3x drain/fill to get the original juice out).
Do not do a "flush" as that will likely introduce more problems than it solves.
Thanks guys. The po had a fluid and filter change done before they parked it. We'll give it a shot and see if it helps though. Dr. F, that's the manual I just got.
Also, my dad tells me it also slips on occasion, mainly from 1st to 2nd. There also seems to be a delay in shifting, not a slip, but like you punch it, on the dash the gear # changes, but it takes a second for the gear to change. He said on a few occasions it just went away, like it was in neutral for a few seconds.
Also, my dad tells me it also slips on occasion, mainly from 1st to 2nd. There also seems to be a delay in shifting, not a slip, but like you punch it, on the dash the gear # changes, but it takes a second for the gear to change. He said on a few occasions it just went away, like it was in neutral for a few seconds.
Sorry I didn't get that manual to you before.
Shift delay might be an issue associated with valving. I can think of a situation where it could improve where new fluids and fresh detergents have their way on buildup. I have to second what @mitro6ual said about flushing with one caveat. If you are at the point of pulling the transmission anyhow for R&R it might be worth the hail Mary of a back-flush. Just be ready (flatbed on standby) for it to cease service then and there.

A drain and refill every 30K (6 years for me) costs $30. At less than $2.50/mo it is about the cheapest insurance I can find. Well D&R every 60k would be half that so.... maybe not the CHEAPEST. :unsure:
Some of the early 6 speeds had a problematic valve body. Mine had to be replaced under warranty because it was slipping, completely ruined the shift mapping too, went from snappy to dull. At this age, it's probably not that, but like Dr. said, the valve body is the likely cause.
Well, over the weekend, dad took it for a short drive, and lost everything except 1 and 6. I've been looking into getting a valve body, and ebay is flooded with refurbished ones from China, I'm just not so sure about those...
Well, over the weekend, dad took it for a short drive, and lost everything except 1 and 6. I've been looking into getting a valve body, and ebay is flooded with refurbished ones from China, I'm just not so sure about those...
car-part.com or eBay and seller LKQ is who id trust.
Interesting...my wife's 2009 Mazda6 does the same thing - only on occasion - when shifting only from 1st to 2nd. will occasionally grind, but eventually, drop in. I don't think I'm any more aggressive going into 2nd, as I am with any other gear. Reading all the previous posts is very helpful! I'll have them replace the fluids in transmission to see if that helps. I love this forum!!! We've owned Mazda's since our 1990 Protege, and still have our 2000 626 with over 323k's on it!
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Well, over the weekend, dad took it for a short drive, and lost everything except 1 and 6. I've been looking into getting a valve body, and ebay is flooded with refurbished ones from China, I'm just not so sure about those...
I tried the valve body route with my original transmission which was shifting hard but hadn't lost gears. I performed multiple fluid drain and fills before installing the new VB. The transmission never shifted as well as it did originally (I bought the car new) and eventually lost first and reverse after a long trip at >170k miles. I bought a rebuilt through Rock Auto (no longer listed), added an inline magnetic filter since there is no real filter in these 6-speeds, and shorted the fluid change to 7500 miles when I change the engine oil. The car is still shifting great at just short of 300k miles. Long story short, your money will probably be better spent on a replacement since there are likely problems in the transmission now that will still be there when you replace the VB.
Initially when my 2005 Mazda6 AWF21 started to have extremely hard shifts between 1-2, changing the ATF with Valvoline Maxlife made the problem go away for about 2 months. But the problem came back so, then I decided to try the TransGo SKAWF21 shift kit. About $87 USD from Ebay. In the process of installing the shift kit, I found that one of the shift solenoids had opening windings. Brought placement solenoid from rock auto for about $60 . The transmission has being working great since Mar 2022. Certainty saved me some cash.


2006 MAZDA 6 3.0L V6
Transmission-Automatic : Shift Solenoid
ROSTRA 520534 (Single Solenoid) Info
Trans. code F21; Shift SSA & SSB Solenoid
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Got the old valve body out today, and then rain came in. One of the torx bolts was stripped, made it a pita. A small rod came out of it somewhere, maybe 1/8inch diameter and about an inch long. I've got a rebuilt body to go back in. Fluid looked quite dirty, and I haven't measured, but it was prob only about 3-4 quarts that came out. Dipstick was reading full before though. Does the converter hold that much? What fluid are you guys using to flush and fill?
I used that valvoline high mileage synthetic that shows it meets mazda's specs for the atf-mv in my 4 cylinder auto
Valvoline maxlife in mine also. Aisin Warner 6AT on a 3.0 V6.
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Well, it's back on the road. New valve body, and flushed the transmission twice. Found the line coming out of the cooler, disconnected it, put a hose on it and marked a 5 gallon bucket with quart lines. Pumped the old out, and poured new in at the same time and ran an extra 2 gallons through it too. She's running right so far, but haven't drove it far. Downshifted to 2nd at 50 and it was smooth. Thank you guys for the help!
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