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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently purchased some mazdaspeed ground wires, any advice from someone else that has installed them would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I just recently purchased some mazdaspeed ground wires, any advice from someone else that has installed them would be greatly appreciated.
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i did a little searching and found this below. I hope it helps. I havent completed grounding all the wires yet. i have two so far. One to factory battery ground and one to the body. I am going to work on grounds to the head, and engine block and altenator tommorrow.

From Mazda6tech forum.

Alright, here's my tutorial for upgrading the Magic 3 in your car. I embarked upon this because I am putting in an audio system that will surely tax my car's electrical system. A good first, and cheap, step is to upgrade your vehicles magic 3. These extra wires basically will help you achieve better grounding and get the most current out of your stock electrical system.

Tools/Materials Required
Metric #10 Socket wrench or wrench
Metric #7, 8, or 9 (sorry I just can't really remember this one)
Vice grips or a Vice
Painters Tape, Duct Tape, etc.
~8 ft. your choice of gauge wire (I used 0awg, you can get by fine with 4awg, I had extra laying around)
6 Crimping Ring Terminals same gauge as wire
Floor Jack
2 Jack Stands

Everything herein was done with the battery completely disconnected. I did not remove any factory wires, I only added additional wires to the existing points, as should you. My car is a 6S MTX so obviously if yours is different then mine you will possibly have different points. If you have a 4 cylinder then I hope your alternator is much easier to reach then it is on the 6 cylinder.

The first thing you should do after disconnecting the battery is to remove it. To do this remove the battery brace. It simply has one screw on the wheel well that you unscrew and then you can remove the bracket. After that take the battery out. Furthermore, you should remove the battery tray as well. To do this just unscrew the two bolt in the bottom of it and then remove the tray. All of these bolts I was able to remove using a number 10 metric socket. Now that that is done, on to the wires.

The first and easiest wire to complete is your battery-ground connection. You can trace this wire quite easily. The wire length for this run is under 1ft and is quite easy to do. I make sure the new run is the same length or a little bit longer than the factory wire. Now, unscrew the bolt in your battery terminal ring, insert the crimped ring terminal and then screw the bolt back into the battery terminal. Do not worry about grounding this first wire yet because we still have at least one more wire to do before we can ground.

The second wire is the engine block - ground wire. This is a tricky wire to replace because it is difficult to see and most of the work must be done by hand. For the 6s the engine block ground wire is on the drivers side of the engine bay and is near the firewall. You can access it via the top of the engine compartment. If you search for it long enough you will find it. But the main thing I did for was look for a black wire with a grey stripe as that was the other ground wire at the grounding point. Once I found it I had to unscrew it mostly by touch as it is not easily visible. Now to unscrew this bolt you need that smaller metric socket, whose size I forgot (I believe its 8 or 9). Once you have this bolt off, put the crimp ring end of your wire onto the bolt and then reattached the bolt. I did not cut this wire to length until I had routed it in the engine bay.



Once you have the engine ground wire routed to the grounding point (same as the battery to ground) you should cut it to length and add the second crimped ring terminal onto it. Now that you have both of your ground connections ready to be grounded, remove the bolt that holds the factory grounds in place. You will notice that the place where the grounding point touches the frame is painted. I sanded this down around the bolt hole so I had a better grounding point. Now simply (or not so simply if your working with large gauge wire like I did) reattach the bolt with all three ground terminals attached (factory ground, batt ground, engine ground). If you are having trouble with getting the bolt in you can swap bolts with the battery harness to give you a little extra length. We now have completed two of the three wires for upgrade.

Ok the last wire is the hardest and for me the most painful. The alternator on the V6 6 is located near the firewall on the passenger side toward the bottom of the engine.

The first thing you should do when you go to replace this wire is to jack up your car via the front jacking point. Once you get that done put jack stands in the appropriate places. and then lower the jack slowly until the vehicle rests on the the jack stands. I still used the floor jack as a means of supporting the vehicle as if you totally remove it then you severely limit your working room and access to the alternator. This is not totally safe and is even more reason why you should have the vehicle resting on the jack stands. This way, you do not have the entire lifted weight of the vehicle on the floor jack.

Here is the picture of the alternator, its easiest to see by looking through the right front wheel well when you're underneath the vehicle.



You can see where I have attached my new alternator wire to the positive post. This post is actually covered by a grey cap that you need to remove, which then reveals the bolt. The only way I could access the cap was by getting my hand through the maze of parts starting near the exhaust pipes.



Now here is a tip for you that can save you from getting scraped up pretty good if you have big hands and forearms. There is a metal plate that will dig into your wrists pretty good when you are working on the alternator. I highly recommend putting painters tape on this plate so it can no longer injure you.



Once you have the gray cap removed it was easiest for me to unscrew the bolt through the top of the engine bay (it uses 10 metric socket) with my socket wrench. After I had the bolt removed I fed my wire down to the alternator and then went back underneath to attach the ring terminal onto the alternator post. I hand threaded the bolt from underneath and you can either tighten from underneath or from above. (Your socket wrench during this entire process needs to have the handle straight up, otherwise there are too many other hoses etc that make it difficult to screw and unscrew the bolt.) Once you have this bolt tightened, route your wire by the firewall to the battery area. Attach the second ring terminal to the positive battery terminal via the same method used on the negative terminal. This is a good time to jack the car up, remove the stands and then lower the car fully because all you need to do is reconnect the battery.

Ok were almost finished now, replace the battery tray and screw the bolts down. Once tightened set your battery back in and reinstall the battery brace. When that is done hook up your ground terminal to the battery and tighten. Hook up positive terminal to the battery and tighten. Your finished product should look something like this:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I just recently purchased some mazdaspeed ground wires, any advice from someone else that has installed them would be greatly appreciated.
[/b]
Please update this post with your review after install. I am looking into doing this also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright got my wires set up. The car seems to idle a better and there is a slight pull in acceleration but nothing to get to excited about. The hardest part of the install was finding good grounding points throughout the engine bay. I will update with pictures in the next day or so.

The one problem that i do have is my passenger window will not work from my drivers side switches but it does work on the passenger side. I think i know what wire i disconnected that could be causing the problem. I will add a later post once i figure it out.
 

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Alright got my wires set up. The car seems to idle a better and there is a slight pull in acceleration but nothing to get to excited about. The hardest part of the install was finding good grounding points throughout the engine bay. I will update with pictures in the next day or so.

The one problem that i do have is my passenger window will not work from my drivers side switches but it does work on the passenger side. I think i know what wire i disconnected that could be causing the problem. I will add a later post once i figure it out.
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When ever you disconnect you battery you need to reset your windows. From passenger side bring the window all the way down until it clicks. Then back up until it clicks. You should be gtg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When ever you disconnect you battery you need to reset your windows. From passenger side bring the window all the way down until it clicks. Then back up until it clicks. You should be gtg.
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I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Please update this post with your review after install. I am looking into doing this also.
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Here is a few pictures of the install, I will take some close ups later today. After driving it for a week with the install it seems like it has made a little difference in shifting, its a little bit smoother than before. Maybe a little acceleration increase but nothing dramatic. I have been pretty impressed with the brightness it has brought to my headlights after hooking up the ground kit to it. Above all an easy and cheap mod, without much hassle on the installation.
 

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For other people who are interested in a "grounding kit wires", you can just go get heavy gauge wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I apoligize for taking me so long to update the pictures. I a couple of issues with my camera but now have a different one.

The pictures that i took are my grounding points that i used. I didnt use an alt to the postive battery terminal.



More pics!
 

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