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2010 Mazda 6 and 2016 BMW 550i Msport.
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We bought a 2010 Mazda 6i, 2.5L/Auto with 112k miles yesterday for my 18yo son as his first car. Car shows a fairly consistent history of oil changes and service reported on the Carfax and I am the fourth owner. This is my first Mazda, but it seems way less complicated than my BMW's I have been maintaining for the last 20 years... Brought it home and put it up on the quickjacks to do a better inspection than I could at the used car lot. That's when I found both inner CV boots are split (outers look fine). So I am looking for good websites that may specialize in discount OE quality Mazda parts... (Like FCPEuro.com, Autohausaz.com, and EEuroparts,com do for BMW.) I got it for a good price so not upset about having to replace these...

Already went into Rockauto last night and ordered new trans filter and gasket, Gates serpentine belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, NGK iridium plugs, air filter, cabin filter, PCV valve, valve cover gasket, and a Chiltons manual. Also stopped at O'reily Auto and got a gallon of Maxlife ATF, a gallon of Prestone yellow for a coolant flush, quart of DOT3 high temp synthetic brake fluid (was showing 1% moisture on my tester) and a taller Bosch oil filter...

Brakes/rotors look fine and everything seems to work as it should. The only oddity I noted was when we were driving around an empty parking lot with steering at full lock and accelerating in a circle (tires squealing), the front inner dome light was blinking on/off. Don't know if it was me pressing against the door, the body twisting causing the door closed sensors to disconnect or something else. (I had just washed the motor with foamy engine bright and hosed it off so the under hood electrics may have been a little wet).

It seems these have a timing chain and I am not sure if these require adjustment/replacement (how often?) or if I should also be looking at doing the water pump, thermostat, etc as part of a cooling system overhaul when I change the serpentine belt/pulleys? Got the valve cover gasket as that is a major leak point on many BMW's after 100k mi, but not sure about Mazda 2.5L? (Was only $15 anyway)

Future will be CV/half shafts, shocks/struts and possibly lower control arms and other bits of suspension that wear out... (Probably do this all together so I just need to get one alignment done...) My goal is to have a very reliable car for him to drive for the next 4-6 years for college. Any other areas I should be considering for maintenance?

Thanks,

Luky
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Congrats on your purchase, and you've come to the right place!

You've got a great list of things going already for proper maintenance, and I can promise you that this car will be easier (and cheaper) to work on than a BMW :D

I've not owned a 2nd generation, so there's a significant gap in my knowledge of them, but hopefully some of the other members like @Mz6GreyGhost can point you in the right direction.

Things I do know:
  • The 2.5L is quite reliable and we've not seen any major reports of failures so long as you keep up regular maintenance.
  • All Mazda 6s have timing chains and they're wonderful. Don't mess with it unless you have reason to do so :)
  • RockAuto has most of the stuff you'll need for the cars, but obviously know their quality can be hit or miss for certain things.
  • Your car (for better or worse) is actually about 80% Ford, so you'll be able to find the vast majority of parts available for it at any local auto parts store.
  • For any oddities with the car, you can check places like JimEllisMazdaParts to help find part numbers/order parts, or ZoomZoomNationParts.com - For Extremely odd parts or even pick-n-pull needs, you can contact someone directly at MAZMART.
  • There was a recall for the rear subframe completely rotting out, so check into that.
 

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2010 Mazda 6 and 2016 BMW 550i Msport.
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Discussion Starter #3
There was a recall for the rear subframe completely rotting out, so check into that.

:poop: I thought that was just a BMW E46 thing... Thanks for the feedback as I was not aware. I will have a closer look at the rear end next time I put it on the lift. Did not hear any clunking over speed bumps and the car suspension did not have any odd squeaks or noises so I'll keep my fingers crossed. It is a SoCal car (LA and San Diego) it's whole life so probably not rotting out... (The BMW failures were a structural weakness and the subframe bushings could crack/tear out of the body/frame).
 

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There was a recall for the rear subframe completely rotting out, so check into that.

:poop: I thought that was just a BMW E46 thing... Thanks for the feedback as I was not aware. I will have a closer look at the rear end next time I put it on the lift. Did not hear any clunking over speed bumps and the car suspension did not have any odd squeaks or noises so I'll keep my fingers crossed. It is a SoCal car (LA and San Diego) it's whole life so probably not rotting out... (The BMW failures were a structural weakness and the subframe bushings could crack/tear out of the body/frame).
Sorry, I should correct myself and be more specific - it's the front subframe that rusts (primarily due to road salt) and falls apart, causing inability to control the car :eek: - You should be fine where you're at (y)
 

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I don’t really have a favorite place for aftermarket parts, but a local Mazda dealer here has about the best prices I’ve found when one orders on their website. They’re called Horne Mazda.

For my part, I strongly prefer genuine manufacturer parts when it comes to halfshafts on Japanese cars.
 
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