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16.5 @ 85 mph with a 0.401 R/T

I'll throw mine in the pot. Curious to see what everyone else has, as far as time slips, 0-60, eighth, quarter, or half mile. I'm somehow not hitting reported 1/4 numbers by at least 1.5 sec every time. The fastest online I've seen for a stock GJ was 15.1 @ 90 mph, which seems impossible. I'm on stickier tires with lighter wheels; I should have this.

 

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Car and Driver only got 16.1 @ 90mph in the 1/4 mile with theirs, a Sport model with a manual transmission and 17" wheels. Your 1/4 mile makes sense if it's run on 87 octane in hot muggy FL weather on 19" or bigger wheels IMO. I haven't run mine, but I am sure it's slower being a heavy GT on heavy OE wheels. It feels a lot faster in the winter on my 17s!
 

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I only did two runs, but my best time was 17.6 with a new 2017 Mazda6 MT with the 19" stock wheels and tires. These were my first times down the drag strip so some of it was likely me but it still seems like this is very slow.
 

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Car and Driver only got 16.1 @ 90mph in the 1/4 mile with theirs, a Sport model with a manual transmission and 17" wheels. Your 1/4 mile makes sense if it's run on 87 octane in hot muggy FL weather on 19" or bigger wheels IMO. I haven't run mine, but I am sure it's slower being a heavy GT on heavy OE wheels. It feels a lot faster in the winter on my 17s!


To jog my memory, the sport is 2.0L?


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16.5 @ 85 mph with a 0.401 R/T

I'll throw mine in the pot. Curious to see what everyone else has, as far as time slips, 0-60, eighth, quarter, or half mile. I'm somehow not hitting reported 1/4 numbers by at least 1.5 sec every time. The fastest online I've seen for a stock GJ was 15.1 @ 90 mph, which seems impossible. I'm on stickier tires with lighter wheels; I should have this.



Do you have the 2.5 A/T? Sport mode make a difference? I used to drag my Saabaru and finding a consistent torque launch was actually more tricky than I’d imagined. Needless to say, I’m inexperienced with drag strips and intend to try my hand at autox


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Do you have the 2.5 A/T? Sport mode make a difference?
Yes, 2.5 A/T. Sport mode doesn't make much of a difference in times, but I throw it on just in case. I try to launch at the limit of grip, which varies from track to track for me. I'd rather hook low than spin high, kind of thing.
 

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I used to take my MR2 turbo to the dragstrip somewhat frequently. I never tried an auto since slipping the clutch at the right rpm for launch was like an art. Bogging it at all would drastically affect my time and trap speed. I also first went with 15 inch rims and then 17/18 staggered. The 17/18 staggered were "light" for their size and much wider but I still got slower times. I also never drag raced a FWD car. I would run a slightly deflated psi in the front and lower the rears prob around 10-15 psi to get the weight to transfer and then the car to squat better at launch.
 

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I do remember most FWD guys were generally disappointed with their times. I saw a lot of preludes and accords back then since it was around 2005 so they were old enough for kids to afford them used. I believe some of the car mags adjust their times for temp and distance above sea level like a dyno so times are a crapshoot. I personally noticed about a half second difference between a few tracks I went to.
 

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Air Density and Track altitude plays a huge role in track times. Especially in Naturally Aspirated (NA) engines - only to be exacerbated by vehicles whose primary speed component is their power-to-weight ratio. And by that, I mean, when you have a stock NA Mustang putting down 450 hp and contains that "brute force" speed, even bad air density isn't going to slow that thing down that much.

But the 2.5L (that goes for the Mazda3 and Mazda6), its key to speed is that we have light cars -- 3100 and 3300 respectively. Throw in 2500 ft track elevation and less than ideal air density, you'll get a terrible time.

I think what's important to remember is that Mazda engineered these cars on power-to-weight, not straight line performance. That's why they're so darned fun to drive. If the "butt-dyno" feels good, that's what it's all about.

In the event you're trying to capture those elusive C&D and MT published times, you'll want ideal conditions which typically have 3 components:

1) This one you have no control over: Track Elevation. You can't do anything about the sea level elevation of your track. Simply, the closer your track is to sea level, the more densely packed the air is. Think of Denver Sports teams - other teams always have trouble playing in Denver because the air is "so-thin". Hell, field goal kickers love it because the football slices right through the thin air. Cars on the other hand hate it, they want dense air.

2) This one you do have control over: Outside temperature. Pick a day to go to the track when the outside temperature is below 50 degrees (assuming you live in a part of the country where you can pull this off).

3) This one is ultimately an issue anywhere: Humidity. You want the humidity as low as possible. The more humidity, the more wet air your motor is dealing with. Your motor wants dry air.

If you're able to capture number 2 and 3 on an ideal day, take note of the barometer reading of the air pressure system you're dealing with. You would ideally like it to be 30.50+ inches of Mercury (inHg). Catch 2 and 3, along with a high barometer reading -- you high tail it to your track for test and tune or whatever they call it these days.

All that said, if free time just isn't on your side and you have to deal with whatever conditions are thrown at you, take note of your track altitude, outdoor temp, humidity, and barometer reading. This website will throw all of that at you - you just need to select the drag strip you're at.

https://airdensityonline.com/tracks/

Simply keep it on your phone and screen shot it when you're the next car in line. Then compare your timeslip to your screen shot and you'll get an assessment of how "accurate" that 1/4 time is. The higher the "density altitude" number on the website, the less accurate your time is. Ideally you want that number as close to 0 as possible.

But wait, there's more! You can actually correct your time with a Density Altitude Calculator, found here:

DA Calculator - Density Altitude Calculator - DragTimes.com

It asks for all of the relative data I listed above, which calculates the Density Altitude (DA). Then you stick in your time and trap speed and it corrects it for you. Poof. NOW you have an accurate 1/4 time when corrected for ideal conditions. Enjoy!
 

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2018 Mazda 6 Signature with 1300 km on the odometer. Ran at Saskatchewan International Raceway. 1600 feet altitude. Best mph on the night was 93.12. Stock set up aside from K&N drop in filter. Fuel was a mix of 91 Octane from Costco and 94 Octane from Husky. Outside temperature around 23 degrees Celsius with a slight cross wind.
 

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Hey folks, I know you wanna know your 1/4 mile and 0-60 times but for sake of the longevity-of-service life of your engines maybe refrain from the highest rpm's and throttle openings 'till you have, mebe 8000 km / 5000 miles? I don't want to debate whether break-in is necessary or not - but what is the downside of erring on the side of caution and assuming it is?
 

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Hey folks, I know you wanna know your 1/4 mile and 0-60 times but for sake of the longevity-of-service life of your engines maybe refrain from the highest rpm's and throttle openings 'till you have, mebe 8000 km / 5000 miles? I don't want to debate whether break-in is necessary or not - but what is the downside of erring on the side of caution and assuming it is?
As far as I'm concerned, modern day engines are ready to rock and roll right off the assembly line. The biggest thing I hear is to try to vary your speed (and therefore RPM) for the first couple of hundred km (IE: Don't hit the highway for 5 hours right after taking delivery and set the cruise to 115 km/h the whole time). I took my new turbo 6 to the track with 1300 km on it. I can't see how any harm would come to the motor at that point. 15 seconds of full throttle acceleration should be a walk in the park compared to what most manufacturers subject their motors to during testing.
 

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2018 Mazda 6 Signature with 1300 km on the odometer. Ran at Saskatchewan International Raceway. 1600 feet altitude. Best mph on the night was 93.12. Stock set up aside from K&N drop in filter. Fuel was a mix of 91 Octane from Costco and 94 Octane from Husky. Outside temperature around 23 degrees Celsius with a slight cross wind.
Not too shabby. Auto or manual? Were you brake boosting off the line of just mashing on the gas?
 

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Hey folks, I know you wanna know your 1/4 mile and 0-60 times but for sake of the longevity-of-service life of your engines maybe refrain from the highest rpm's and throttle openings 'till you have, mebe 8000 km / 5000 miles? I don't want to debate whether break-in is necessary or not - but what is the downside of erring on the side of caution and assuming it is?
Yes, the break-in is 100% necessary and very important. After 3000 miles you can do as much full throttle as you want.

As far as I'm concerned, modern day engines are ready to rock and roll right off the assembly line. The biggest thing I hear is to try to vary your speed (and therefore RPM) for the first couple of hundred km (IE: Don't hit the highway for 5 hours right after taking delivery and set the cruise to 115 km/h the whole time). I took my new turbo 6 to the track with 1300 km on it. I can't see how any harm would come to the motor at that point. 15 seconds of full throttle acceleration should be a walk in the park compared to what most manufacturers subject their motors to during testing.
Nonsense.
 
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