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Gen 2 - Alternative Manual Transmission Fluid

17465 Views 42 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  mazda626awd
This is a bit of a sound-off thread. Got my car back after a harrowing experience in a gen1 mazda3 (this hooptie made my old SL1 look like it was loaded with features) . . . After $112 a lighter wallet I got:

What I want to know is this:
What alternative fluid have you tried in your gen 2?

Also, please note if you were trying to remedy any particular problem.

I'll start:
very hard to get into gear below 40 degrees F -- changed to RedLine MT-90 (Synthetic 75W-90; GL-4) at 25k miles

Nicer than stock for the first 3k, after that, about as good as stock, occasionally have 2nd gear 'bouncing' when I try to shift.

Brought it into the dealer at 41k miles . . . can't reproduce.

I'm curious if anyone's gone down to something like 70W-90 or even 80/85. I don't live anywhere even REMOTELY cold, but it seems (to me) from the complaints of others about the same thing that this wasn't tested anywhere outside of Virginia, Cali or Arizona.

I'm considering Amsoil (within owner's manual specs) first, then possibly considering Royal Purple, which someone said wasn't good for Mazda's about another vehicle.

Anyone tried RedLine MTL? Seems sort of extreme, or even possibly Smurf's Blood . . . their high-shock gear fluid.


I'm considering (at this point) writing Corporate for a refund on my extended warranty; it seems like . . . if it isn't something my wife and two of my non-gearhead co-workers would notice AND something that could be fixed by Midas, the dealerships aren't prepared to deal with it . . .

Sound off Gen2 M/T owners :)

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500 miles to go -- going to put Amsoil in it this time.
Maybe look for a gear oil with a low pour point, 40C viscosity, and low brooks (most gear oils have these in their datasheets); that may point you in the right direction especially if multiple 75w-90 oils are offered by the same company. Not sure if that actually works since a lot of other properties affect synchronizer performance but maybe worth a try.

reverse dead cold is sometimes hard when the car is still off, putting it into other gears rectifies this, which leads me to believe it has to do more with one 'tooth' (for lack of better word) is narrower/wider than all the others by enough to make it rough and vice-versa on the other side.
Forward drive gears are actually always meshed at the same time in most manual transmissions. When you select a forward gear you are usually engaging a clutch for that gear (called a dog) that locks the selected gear to the shaft while all the other gears spin freely on the shaft. For the reveres gear you do in fact actually mesh a gear in. The teeth on a gear must be made much thicker than the teeth of a dog because the teeth for a dog are engaged simultaniously while on a gear only a few are so the loading per tooth is much higher. That is why it is harder to mesh the reverese gear than dogs gears. It is common with many manual transmissions.

TM actually has a unique setup, not in that he has a problem, just that the dealer gives half of a crap about it . . . I've given up, I'm sending Mazda a letter asking for my money back on the extended warranty based on the fact that they can't seem to fix even little things.
If there is actually an issue with the first gear maybe shouldnt cancel the warranty since the risk is high that the problem will grow to the point that they wont be able to deny the issue. Instead get a quote for a repair from a shop for proof of problem and file with the BBB and your states attorney general; pretty effective.

good luck
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Lemon law depends on your state.
Here in Michigan the same part must break 3 times within the first 90 days of owning the car.
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