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Discussion Starter #1
i though i fixed the issue when the fuse blew. http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=117081
after 70 miles driving it, fuse blew again.
Now, everytime i put a new fuse in it just blows even ON position. ENG BAR 15A is the one thats blowing. then i get 4 codes right away. p2088, p0443, p0403, p2009.

i believe theres a short somewhere. where should i start looking? does anyone have a wiring diagram? maybe i can start on the parts thats drawing power from eng bar.
 

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first u needa figure out what engbar means and then track down the problem. if u figure it out i have the wiring diagram manual so send me a PM
 

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Discussion Starter #3
according to the manual it protects the o2 sensor and egr control valve. what do you think?
 

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bizarre.
check all the plugs next to your clutch cables.
trace those wires to egr plug and o2 sensors.
maybe one of the o2 wires was rubbin on something and got stripped? Kind of unlikely, but who knows.

with as much sh*t as you have done to your car, no dealer would probably want to give you any advice, unless you know someone really well. :/ Same sh*t I'm going through. blah!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i think i fixed it. heres how i troubleshooted it.
i disconnected the harness going to the oil control valve. egr valve , maf sensor and Variable tumble control solenoid. put the car on ON position and the new fuse still blew. then i took out the 2 harness (the one that goes in the main harness) for front o2 sensor put new fuse in and turn on the car, fuse didnt blow. and then i plug it back in again and fuse didnt blow. WTF???? before i removed the 2 harness i know it was secured properly. then i inpected the o2 sensor wire and found this

i think there is at least one wire thats not insulated anymore. i didnt really expect that its gonna be the wire, i didnt do any work there recently. maybe when i removed the 2 harness for the first time, i kinda jiggled the wire and maybe the open insulation stop touching something. thats why when i plugged it in again the fuse didnt blow anymore. i only put an electrical tape to cover the wiring and also heatshield wrap on top of it and made sure that wire is not touching anything.

i only drove for 2 miles and it seems to be ok. i hope this problem doesnt come back.

thanks you guys for your help=D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah :D thanks again
 

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i would seriously consider replacing that. keep a look out for a used spare
 

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Same problem

I have the same problem.
Started after I hit a puddle and the CAI sucked up some water and sent the maf all screwy it also splashed onto the engine.
I've cleaned up most of the problems caused by the water.
The CAI is now a SRI.
I checked Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 as I was getting a code but it is not damaged.
Any ideas why the "Eng Bar" fuse keeps blowing?
Where should I look?
:confused:
 

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I've disconnected the control module in the engine bay and retested the system... the fuse did not blow.
I removed the control module and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner.
Just waiting for it to dry and then I'll start connecting sensors one at a time to see if any more shorts exist.


Information for others if they happen to experience this same problem.
ENG BAR fuse
• Front H02S
• EGR valve
• Purge solenoid valve
• MAF/IAT sensor
• Oil control valve
• Variable swirl shutter valve switch
• Variable swirl solenoid valve
• EVAP system leak detection pump
 

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??? EVAP leak detection pump???

So after putting everything back together the fuse still continued to blow.
I could not find the short.
I looked everywhere in the engine bay and could not locate any sort of cut wire or anything.
Took it to an electrical troubleshooter and he traced the short to...
The EVAP Leak Detection Pump at the rear of the car.
Appearantly the pump had seized and was shorting every time the ECU sent a signal to it.
For now it is disconnected and will be replaced as soon as I can get the part.
This has been a PITA.
At least I know what it is now.
:huh:
Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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Time to revive an old thread...
I haven't had the time to replace the EVAP LDP until now.
So if anyone knows of a walk through or helpful information on how to replace and/or bench test the LDP that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
D
 

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Sorry for the terrible quality, but it really should be all you need.
It shouldn't be difficult to remove.

The WSM literally lists removal as:

1. Remove charcoal canister (#4 in the diagram)
2. Remove EVAP LDP (#5 in the diagram)
3. Install in the reverse order of removal.

That large circular thing in the diagram is just a protective cover alot of guys are familiar with (like me) because their 3"+ after market exhaust has melted some of it. lol!

If you get it off, PM me and I can help you with testing it, and perhaps its circuit for a short.
 
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I have the same problem
first it is the ckp that I disconnected but the engine was not always started because the injectors were not supplying. after finding the fault,
now the fuse blows again, and it is the egr control valve that I have disconnected and the fuse stops blowing
But now
the problem is that when I start the engine it tends to start but does not start. I do a test on the spark of the candle, when i turn it gives spark only on the first shot after more spark.
 

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I have the same problem
first it is the ckp that I disconnected but the engine was not always started because the injectors were not supplying. after finding the fault,
now the fuse blows again, and it is the egr control valve that I have disconnected and the fuse stops blowing
But now
the problem is that when I start the engine it tends to start but does not start. I do a test on the spark of the candle, when i turn it gives spark only on the first shot after more spark.
I am new here
I need help please
 
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