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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here Is my work in progress. After 15 hours of install the end is near. doors and dash speakers are all thats left.

Edit:Here is a parts List of everything that I used and where I bought from:
I did a reasonable amount of searching for the best price before buying so I've included pricing so you can get an Idea of how cheap (relatively) a killer system can sound like. You can also see what you can throw together off the list as my build was pretty extensive.

Edit 10/11/13: just added a center channel using one of the spare channels on my amp I combined the right and left channels and turned the amp way down then ran that to a 3.5" infinity reference speaker. Made a huge difference and really filled out soundstage. And I had the extra speaker laying around. So all it cost me was some extra splitter.
Crutchfield:

Pioneer AVH-X1500DVD $299
PAC RP4-MZ11 Factory Integration Adapter $79.95
Mazda CX-5 In-dash Receiver Kit #120957522B $14.99
Antenna Adapter #12040HD10 $0.00
Total:$394.97

Monoprice.com (if you haven't bought cables here you should start)

3x 25ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable - Black #2866 $6.97ez
12ft 3.5mm Stereo Plug/Jack M/F Cable - Black #649 $1.02
100ft 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable #2791 $25.20
10ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension 28/24AWG Cable (Gold Plated) #5434 $1.42
Shipping:$9.13
Total:$57.68

Amazon:

50 Sq Ft Rattle Trap FatMat 80 mil Bulk Pack Install Kit Included $92.99
Pioneer AVHX5500BHS AVH-X5500BHS AVH-X1500DVD AVHX1500DVD iPod iPhone 4 4s Cable $24.99
NEEWER Waterproof CMOS/CCD Reverse Backup Car Rear View Camera $12.87
Parking Brake Override Bypass Fully Automatic Video in Motion for Pioneer Models AVH-X1500DVD $19.99
Rockford Fosgate P2P3G-12 Punch P2 and P3 12-Inch Black Steel Mesh Woofer Grille $24.78
1gauge to 4x 4 gauge distribution block. (Any will work)
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit $26.99
Scosche SE12CC 12-Inch Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black) $44.95 (Reran wiring inside with 14awg wire)
Infinity REF-3002CFX 3-1/2 Inch 2-Way Speaker (Pair) $99.00
Infinity Reference 4022i 4-Inch Two-Way Loudspeaker (Silver/Black) pair $49.95
Infinity Reference 1262w 12-Inch 1200-Watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) $66.07
2x Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) $53.95
2x Kenwood Kac-8405 720-Watt 4/3/2-Channel Amplifier with Variable LPF/HPF $116.70
Kenwood Kac-9105D 1800-Watt Class D Mono Amplifier $168.80
Total: $982.67

This all may seem expensive, however I did all of this because I cannot stand bose and wanted a manual so the GT model was not some thing I was able to consider. I put all of that savings to good use elsewhere.

Pictures:


 

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Awesome work man. How easy are the door panels to remove? I'd like to put some new speakers and an amp in mah 2014 AT sport but kinda nervous :p
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome work man. How easy are the door panels to remove? I'd like to put some new speakers and an amp in mah 2014 AT sport but kinda nervous :p
It is not too hard you just need to remove a plastic cover under the door handle and remove the screw and the screw under the rubber cover in the handle on the door. I will post a picture for those that are nervous. You have to pull hard once you take out the screws to pop it loose. Once you get the tabs loose you slide the whole panel up and out. Easy.
 

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Can you please tell me the sizes of the stock speakers? Want to search for replacement soon. I think you know why ...:guns: :toiletp:(stock speaker sound quality):toiletp:..Update:Looks like CX-5 owners were blessed with these as well..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you please tell me the sizes of the stock speakers? Want to search for replacement soon. I think you know why ...:guns: :toiletp:(stock speaker sound quality):toiletp:
The rears will fit up to 6.5 inch by removing the housing the speaker is built onto and punching the old speaker out of the housing it's built into. You'll have to get creative to mount them in there but it's pretty easy and you get to distroy the old ones (vindication!.) you can do the exact same in the front or if you can find a larger speaker you may even be able to go that route. I would pull the door panel and do some measurements first. You also have some tweaters (they're poo) on the dash that can fit up to 3.5 inch however I don't know what the stock deck can handle. But it'll sound a lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used a pioneer dvd1500 deck. I actually installed a backup cam aftermarket. I am going to be posting a how to for those that want it in the future. I am sure that the backup cam will work with an aftermarket deck too. I would get the adapter kit for wiring. It's nice to still have control of the radio by steering wheel controls
 

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Thanks for the post, '2014mazda6', answered a some of my questions. I too have a blue 2014 Sport MT 6 and I've been considering replacing the factory stereo. Been looking at nearly identical Pioneer deck, so I'm glad to hear that it fits the space just fine - actually looks pretty damn good! Couple questions for you:
1) I'm assuming you used the adapter to connect the factory steering wheel controls. Any issues with that functionality?

2) Crutchfield warns that you will lose the use of the factory USB connection (I'm assuming they mean the one inside the console near the shifter). Is that true, did you lose that function? I haven't taken apart the console, but I'm guessing it would be pretty straight forward to route a USB cable from the rear of the Pioneer into that factory position in the console. Looks like you chose to install a specific cable with your own routing into the coin tray?

^^ I'm hesitant to do an aftermarket install if I lose these features entirely with no reasonable alternatives.

Lastly, any thoughts or comments on the operation of the Pioneer deck itself? Easy navigation of iPod features? Good sound? Touch Screen pretty responsive? Good image quality? Any negatives?

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the post, '2014mazda6', answered a some of my questions. I too have a blue 2014 Sport MT 6 and I've been considering replacing the factory stereo. Been looking at nearly identical Pioneer deck, so I'm glad to hear that it fits the space just fine - actually looks pretty damn good! Couple questions for you:
1) I'm assuming you used the adapter to connect the factory steering wheel controls. Any issues with that functionality?

2) Crutchfield warns that you will lose the use of the factory USB connection (I'm assuming they mean the one inside the console near the shifter). Is that true, did you lose that function? I haven't taken apart the console, but I'm guessing it would be pretty straight forward to route a USB cable from the rear of the Pioneer into that factory position in the console. Looks like you chose to install a specific cable with your own routing into the coin tray?

^^ I'm hesitant to do an aftermarket install if I lose these features entirely with no reasonable alternatives.

Lastly, any thoughts or comments on the operation of the Pioneer deck itself? Easy navigation of iPod features? Good sound? Touch Screen pretty responsive? Good image quality? Any negatives?

Cheers!
The adapter works perfectly. I went through and setup the steering wheel controls so that the mute button changes the mode instead of muting. I have volume controls already and it seemed redundant. As far as USB connectivity I setup my system with the iPod connector and then bought a 3.5mm connector and ran it to the glove box. There's still a USB connection in the back of the deck it just doesn't work with the connectors in the armrest.
 

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Ha, clever idea re-wiring your steering wheel controls - gotta think about that one, too! I like having the volume and the prev/next on the steering wheel, never had that before. Haven't had much call for that mute button yet, though. I like having the USB in the console, but then again I'm not using my glove box for much

It also occurred to me that there aren't any install harnesses and mount kits indicated yet on sites like Crutchfield for the 2014 M6. So I'm also curious about what mounting kit and wiring harness kit you used? Some folks have noted that the M6 system looks pretty spot-on to the 2013 CX-5. Is that what you used?

Thanks again for the write up, very helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yes. I just bought all the stuff for the cx5. really good question that I didn't include in my first post. Everything works perfectly And connects well. If you have the navigation system I believe that the steering wheel control adapter will work with that as well. There were extra wires for that system specifically on the adapter.

Regarding the 3.5 mm adapter and Usb adapter they looked like they used the same type of proprietary adapters you would use to connect a audio jack and a USB jack to a motherboard on a custom built computer. I am sure that if someone is feeling crafty the could make the standard adaptors work in the armrest. To take the armrest assembly out is pretty easy too. Two screws are in the storage area under a price of cloth and there are two plastic tabs near the front of the seats. Beyond that all you need to do is pull the plastic price that the connectors are on in the armrest and pop off the connections to them and the whole assembly will come out with a little care and coercing. I really hope to see some of the cool stuff people come up with in their builds.
 

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Thanks again for this write up, I've been referring back to your list frequently as I piece together things online. I haven't pulled the trigger yet on doing this, but I'm close. I'm not terribly keen on splicing into the factory wiring harness if I don't have to. I can't imagine reinstalling the factory stereo, though I'd like to keep that option open. I'm guessing you did splice into the factory harness? Looking for prewired harnesses I see the Metra 70-903 Metra Part # 70-7903 | Mazda wire harness | Metra Online pop-up as compatible with the CX-5 thru 2013, with 4 speakers. Well, technically the M6 MT has 6 speakers, but aren't the front speakers simply separated as left/right door speakers with the tweeters up in the dash? (I don't intend on replacing the factory speakers just yet). This Metra wiring adapter is cheap so no harm in trying, only an exercise in frustration if its not a fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again for this write up, I've been referring back to your list frequently as I piece together things online. I haven't pulled the trigger yet on doing this, but I'm close. I'm not terribly keen on splicing into the factory wiring harness if I don't have to. I can't imagine reinstalling the factory stereo, though I'd like to keep that option open. I'm guessing you did splice into the factory harness? Looking for prewired harnesses I see the Metra 70-903 Metra Part # 70-7903 | Mazda wire harness | Metra Online pop-up as compatible with the CX-5 thru 2013, with 4 speakers. Well, technically the M6 MT has 6 speakers, but aren't the front speakers simply separated as left/right door speakers with the tweeters up in the dash? (I don't intend on replacing the factory speakers just yet). This Metra wiring adapter is cheap so no harm in trying, only an exercise in frustration if its not a fit.
With the steering wheel kit i dont think I even had to splice into the cars harness. You have to splice into the harness if you want to use the stock speaker wire and don't plan on running an amp stand alone amp but I think that's it. It's really quite simple. Just time consuming. I have gotten some compliments from some of my audiophile friends saying that its truly the best sounding car system they've ever heard. The soundstage will blow your mind. If you're looking to numb bass it'll do it but it's not what I designed the system for.


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Hey 2014Mazda6, One question...where did you install the 4"? I just picked my '14 up Monday and have yet to even look around the car for my upgrading potential. I have my head unit picked...Alpine INE-W927HD. Just have to wait to get some more in stock. Got my JL Audio C5 6 1/2 components for the front and C5 Coax for the rear out of my 2010 6. Planned on sticking with Alpine PDX amps, 100x4 on the highs, 600 on a JL 13TW5. Would love to stick my 12W7 and PDX-M12 from the 2010 in it but I want to drop some weight. But, depending on what you tell me about the 4s, I may switch to a JL XD800/8 broken down to 6 channels (200x2 front, 75x4 rears). Then do an XD600/1 on the sub. So many choices (I manage an audio shop here in Goldsboro, NC) so I just need to decide what to do. I also have another set of C5 components, and an XD700/5 I could use if I could find some extra 6 1/2 room. This weekend I plan on doing some in-depth planning so I can get going.

Your system looks like it must rock and it looks like you took your time planning it. I am going to make one suggestion, so please don't think I'm bashing. I would upgrade your wiring kit. Knu Concepts wiring is nothing but copper clad aluminum wiring and if you running 0 AWG, it has roughly the same current capacity as a piece of regular 4 AWG. It will make your amps have to work harder to try to pull the necessary current, which will keep them from giving you all the available clean power they can. I would suggest a kit like Stinger, JL Audio, Kicker, Rockford, etc...with a true spec, OFC wire. For the 3 amps you have, it may not be a bad idea. Just a thought. Again, not trying to force my opinion...just making the same recommendation I would to one of my customers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey 2014Mazda6, One question...where did you install the 4"? I just picked my '14 up Monday and have yet to even look around the car for my upgrading potential. I have my head unit picked...Alpine INE-W927HD. Just have to wait to get some more in stock. Got my JL Audio C5 6 1/2 components for the front and C5 Coax for the rear out of my 2010 6. Planned on sticking with Alpine PDX amps, 100x4 on the highs, 600 on a JL 13TW5. Would love to stick my 12W7 and PDX-M12 from the 2010 in it but I want to drop some weight. But, depending on what you tell me about the 4s, I may switch to a JL XD800/8 broken down to 6 channels (200x2 front, 75x4 rears). Then do an XD600/1 on the sub. So many choices (I manage an audio shop here in Goldsboro, NC) so I just need to decide what to do. I also have another set of C5 components, and an XD700/5 I could use if I could find some extra 6 1/2 room. This weekend I plan on doing some in-depth planning so I can get going.

Your system looks like it must rock and it looks like you took your time planning it. I am going to make one suggestion, so please don't think I'm bashing. I would upgrade your wiring kit. Knu Concepts wiring is nothing but copper clad aluminum wiring and if you running 0 AWG, it has roughly the same current capacity as a piece of regular 4 AWG. It will make your amps have to work harder to try to pull the necessary current, which will keep them from giving you all the available clean power they can. I would suggest a kit like Stinger, JL Audio, Kicker, Rockford, etc...with a true spec, OFC wire. For the 3 amps you have, it may not be a bad idea. Just a thought. Again, not trying to force my opinion...just making the same recommendation I would to one of my customers.
ImageUploadedByAG Free1371768703.102271.jpg
Here is where I installed them. I took my time planning it out an put dynamat underneath the rear deck to keep vibration and chatter down to a minimum. The speakers are not tightened down to metal but have 1/2 layer of foam sticky tape under them and held down tight by the pressure of the deck lid cover. It's been cranked up pretty loud and there is no vibration to be heard. You could easily install approx. 3.5 inch back there. there are already holes for them in the rear deck that you can see from the truck. Then make custom covers on the deck lid cover. Or you may be able to see if you can buy the deck lid for the Bose system. This is what I plan on doing in the next month or so and cutting the the metal to fit my 4" speakers. ImageUploadedByAG Free1371769384.019430.jpg

As far as the knukoncepts kit goes I was pretty pissed when I opened it to see it was CCA and not pure copper. However i am sure you know how it goes once you start a project, nothing stops you and A little hiccup like that can be fixed later. Same with the rear deck as I figured my car would have the same cover as the Bose system. I was wrong. Lol.

Also just so you are aware you may fit up to an 8" speaker in the fronts with no problem and really get your soundstage tuned in as lows will tend to pull it towed your sub. I don't know a lot about car audio and this is my first install of this magnitude. I am more of a home audio guy so any tips from yourself would be appreciated.


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Awesome! Let us know how much that rear deck is. I may do that. As for my front, the C5 650s have a very low response, especially with power, so my mid bass has always been excellent.
If this is your first larger scale install, you wouldn't know it. I have guys coming in all the time talking like they do it all the time for their buddies so they "know what they are doing" and their installs come nowhere close to yours. Nice job.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks. That's awesome to hear. I did need to pick a pro's brain on one thing. And probably let you know for your build too. With the runs to the doors I had to run my wire the outside the wiring loom that goes to the door for the locks and windows. It appears that they used a large connector that is snug with the frame of the car to connect everything and I would have had to modify the connector to get my wire through the rubber tubing. Would you recommend doing that or I was considering just covering the 3-5 inches of exposed wire with that woven electrical tape to tidy things up. Please save me on this one item as I think this is the one area my install suffers from newbieishness.


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Here Is my work in progress. After 15 hours of install the end is near. doors and dash speakers are all thats left.

Edit:Here is a parts List of everything that I used and where I bought from:
I did a reasonable amount of searching for the best price before buying so I've included pricing so you can get an Idea of how cheap (relatively) a killer system can sound like. You can also see what you can throw together off the list as my build was pretty extensive.

Crutchfield:

Pioneer AVH-X1500DVD $299
PAC RP4-MZ11 Factory Integration Adapter $79.95
Mazda CX-5 In-dash Receiver Kit #120957522B $14.99
Antenna Adapter #12040HD10 $0.00
Total:$394.97

Monoprice.com (if you haven't bought cables here you should start)

3x 25ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable - Black #2866 $6.97ez
12ft 3.5mm Stereo Plug/Jack M/F Cable - Black #649 $1.02
100ft 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable #2791 $25.20
10ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension 28/24AWG Cable (Gold Plated) #5434 $1.42
Shipping:$9.13
Total:$57.68

Amazon:

50 Sq Ft Rattle Trap FatMat 80 mil Bulk Pack Install Kit Included $92.99
Pioneer AVHX5500BHS AVH-X5500BHS AVH-X1500DVD AVHX1500DVD iPod iPhone 4 4s Cable $24.99
NEEWER Waterproof CMOS/CCD Reverse Backup Car Rear View Camera $12.87
Parking Brake Override Bypass Fully Automatic Video in Motion for Pioneer Models AVH-X1500DVD $19.99
Rockford Fosgate P2P3G-12 Punch P2 and P3 12-Inch Black Steel Mesh Woofer Grille $24.78
1gauge to 4x 4 gauge distribution block. (Any will work)
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit $26.99
Scosche SE12CC 12-Inch Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black) $44.95 (Reran wiring inside with 14awg wire)
Infinity REF-3002CFX 3-1/2 Inch 2-Way Speaker (Pair) $99.00
Infinity Reference 4022i 4-Inch Two-Way Loudspeaker (Silver/Black) pair $49.95
Infinity Reference 1262w 12-Inch 1200-Watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) $66.07
2x Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) $53.95
2x Kenwood Kac-8405 720-Watt 4/3/2-Channel Amplifier with Variable LPF/HPF $116.70
Kenwood Kac-9105D 1800-Watt Class D Mono Amplifier $168.80
Total: $982.67

This all may seem expensive, however I did all of this because I cannot stand bose and wanted a manual so the GT model was not some thing I was able to consider. I put all of that savings to good use elsewhere.
WOW, when can I get you to come and do mine?

I just purchased the 2014 i Touring, no tech package. I think this is by far the worst stereo I've ever owned. Love the car, but I'm not sure how long I can live with this factor system.
 

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Thanks. That's awesome to hear. I did need to pick a pro's brain on one thing. And probably let you know for your build too. With the runs to the doors I had to run my wire the outside the wiring loom that goes to the door for the locks and windows. It appears that they used a large connector that is snug with the frame of the car to connect everything and I would have had to modify the connector to get my wire through the rubber tubing. Would you recommend doing that or I was considering just covering the 3-5 inches of exposed wire with that woven electrical tape to tidy things up. Please save me on this one item as I think this is the one area my install suffers from newbieishness.


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Yeah, Molex plugs SUCK!!! Usually, if you want to do it the way everyone considers "proper", you would unplug it, drill out two empty slots, then run wires in keeping everything neat and tidy. I say screw that! I run my speaker wires from the amp to behind the head unit and let them take the speaker wires from there to the doors. Some say you hurt the sound by doing that. You may, but I have done it both ways and heard not one bit of difference back to back...even when I was running my old Diamond D7 amps, I ran new wire straight to the doors and no difference.
I ran pink noise from my JL Audio HD900/5, as well as a 20K to 20Hz sine sweep and the most AC voltage that I ever got on the speaker lead was .16 volts or something like that. So I say forget all the headache of the molex plugs. Now if someone has an opinion otherwise, please feel free to tell me how you feel, but I will dare you to come listen to my car when it's done and tell my it sounds bad.
 

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Hi.

Thanks for a great post. Just what I was looking for :)

I just Got my 6 a week ago, and plan to install better stereo. I have a few things I would like to ask, because I'm worried I might break some plastic in the process :)

How did you get the original radio out? Special tools required? Do you have pics of it?

Would also be great with pics showing where the screws etc are Placed on the door sides and panels along the side of the vehicle for cable routing.

One last thing. Where you able to get the power cable though the wall into the cabin, whitout drilling? It looks like to have pulled it through some grey rubber om some sorts?

That adapter you bought, to still be able to use the wheel remotes, do you know if it Will work with the commander thing also?

Regards

Mutzer from Denmark
 
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