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Hi all,
Wanted to know if any of you are experiencing fuel pump issues out there. I have an '04 6S 5-door. recently the area around the right rear corner of the car there has been a light, continuos grinding/squeeling noise. It is not brake related. In addition, just around the time the low-fuel light comes on, the car gets sensitive to R hand turns, especially slightly uphill. The symptom is power cut-out, almost stalling. After the most recent incident (the first in 5 months) I was near a gas station. It only took 14.5 gallons to fill (3.5 left). So, I am wondering if my pump has become sensitive to fuel starvation. The stuttering also sounds like the TB issue I've been reading about. Any thoughts besides "get it to the dealer for checkout"?
 

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The fuel pump has been very sensitive in low fuel situations since mid-2000 model year when Ford first introduced the fuel pump we use in the Ford Contour. The strainer disc, which serves as the primary filter can very easily get clogged and when it gets clogged it starves the pump of fuel, effectively overheating it, damaging it and then killing it.

When you run below 1/4 tank of fuel, you run a higher risk of exposing the pump to the trash and contaminents in the fuel tank, thus you run the risk of clogging this strainer up much quicker.

Most likely your pump is already on the way out, get the dealer to replace it under warranty, if it still is, and then learn from this and never run your car below 1/4 tank before filling it up. If it is not under warranty, buy the replacement pump, and remove the strainer disc to avoid this from happening again.
 

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The fuel pump has been very sensitive in low fuel situations since mid-2000 model year when Ford first introduced the fuel pump we use in the Ford Contour. The strainer disc, which serves as the primary filter can very easily get clogged and when it gets clogged it starves the pump of fuel, effectively overheating it, damaging it and then killing it.

When you run below 1/4 tank of fuel, you run a higher risk of exposing the pump to the trash and contaminents in the fuel tank, thus you run the risk of clogging this strainer up much quicker.

Most likely your pump is already on the way out, get the dealer to replace it under warranty, if it still is, and then learn from this and never run your car below 1/4 tank before filling it up. If it is not under warranty, buy the replacement pump, and remove the strainer disc to avoid this from happening again.
[/b]
Is this the better fuel pump to buy, and is there much modification needed during install?:
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?...;highlight=pump
 

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+1 that's where i messed up, running the car at below quarter tank. Im having the same problem, on turns, uphill, etc.. At 46k miles i dont think they'll replace it under warranty and I'll most likely be replacing the fuel pump myself when i get around to it. For now, I just try fill up at a quarter tank..
 

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Should be very minor modification to the basket if any to accept the SVT Focus pump.
[/b]
If you don't remove the filter disc, will you encounter the same debris issues down the road with this SVT pump? What's the advantage of replacing the current pump with this one, meaning if you buy the same stock pump and remove the filter disc, would it perform as well as the SVT pump?
 

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The fuel pump has been very sensitive in low fuel situations since mid-2000 model year when Ford first introduced the fuel pump we use in the Ford Contour. The strainer disc, which serves as the primary filter can very easily get clogged and when it gets clogged it starves the pump of fuel, effectively overheating it, damaging it and then killing it.

When you run below 1/4 tank of fuel, you run a higher risk of exposing the pump to the trash and contaminents in the fuel tank, thus you run the risk of clogging this strainer up much quicker.

Most likely your pump is already on the way out, get the dealer to replace it under warranty, if it still is, and then learn from this and never run your car below 1/4 tank before filling it up. If it is not under warranty, buy the replacement pump, and remove the strainer disc to avoid this from happening again.
[/b]

So if the strainer is removed, what would prevent contaminants from entering the fuel system?
 

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So if the strainer is removed, what would prevent contaminants from entering the fuel system?
[/b]
There is a sock type filter on the SVT pump. The disk filter must have been designed out, because there was none where there was one before. I bought a new one made in June at my local Ford dealership for $110 (they originally wanted $135), but here is a picture of the exact same one here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustan...bayphotohosting

For the record, the SVT fuel pump (P/N: 3S4Z-9H307-BC) is NOT a plug in and play swap. The lids are different sizes, and the connector integrated into the lid is different. You can't fit the new pump in the old basket, due to lack of Z-height between the lid and the bottom of the tank. You have to connect the new pump's wires to the old lid's connector. Using the original lid so that you can use its connector also means CUTTING out and relocating that top connector on top of the lid and sealing up the hole you just made. This is because the lid will not close with the old connector in its original integrated location hovering over the pump. There is not enough Z-height for that either. I am not even sure yet if doing this will work, or if the RTV seal will keep whatever pressure is required, but I will find out in the morning it it will work.

Glad I am on vacation, because worst case if it doesn't work, I'll need to go and get a new OEM pump and top lid for $350....

Having a servicable filter would have been a great F'in' design concept...
 

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There is a sock type filter on the SVT pump. The disk filter must have been designed out, because there was none where there was one before. I bought a new one made in June at my local Ford dealership for $110 (they originally wanted $135), but here is a picture of the exact same one here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustan...bayphotohosting

For the record, the SVT fuel pump (P/N: 3S4Z-9H307-BC) is NOT a plug in and play swap. The lids are different sizes, and the connector integrated into the lid is different. You can't fit the new pump in the old basket, due to lack of Z-height between the lid and the bottom of the tank. You have to connect the new pump's wires to the old lid's connector. Using the original lid so that you can use its connector also means CUTTING out and relocating that top connector on top of the lid and sealing up the hole you just made. This is because the lid will not close with the old connector in its original integrated location hovering over the pump. There is not enough Z-height for that either. I am not even sure yet if doing this will work, or if the RTV seal will keep whatever pressure is required, but I will find out in the morning it it will work.

Glad I am on vacation, because worst case if it doesn't work, I'll need to go and get a new OEM pump and top lid for $350....

Having a servicable filter would have been a great F'in' design concept...[/b]

ANy update to your progress, thanks!
 

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The fuel pump has been very sensitive in low fuel situations since mid-2000 model year when Ford first introduced the fuel pump we use in the Ford Contour. The strainer disc, which serves as the primary filter can very easily get clogged and when it gets clogged it starves the pump of fuel, effectively overheating it, damaging it and then killing it.

When you run below 1/4 tank of fuel, you run a higher risk of exposing the pump to the trash and contaminents in the fuel tank, thus you run the risk of clogging this strainer up much quicker.

Most likely your pump is already on the way out, get the dealer to replace it under warranty, if it still is, and then learn from this and never run your car below 1/4 tank before filling it up. If it is not under warranty, buy the replacement pump, and remove the strainer disc to avoid this from happening again.[/b]
This post is completely accurate I just wanted to add that when the fuel tank is emptied below a quarter of a tank the most common cause of failure is the pump overheats due to the fact that there is no fuel around to cool it. As long as the pump stays submerged in fuel it runs cooler. So then when you have got the fuel pump hot and you pull into a gas station to, obiously fill up right, well the new fuel that comes in cools the hot pump to quickly and messes it up real bad. Basically keep as much fuel as possible in the car a all times :)

Blackwell
ASE Master Technician
 

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This post is completely accurate I just wanted to add that when the fuel tank is emptied below a quarter of a tank the most common cause of failure is the pump overheats due to the fact that there is no fuel around to cool it. As long as the pump stays submerged in fuel it runs cooler. So then when you have got the fuel pump hot and you pull into a gas station to, obiously fill up right, well the new fuel that comes in cools the hot pump to quickly and messes it up real bad. Basically keep as much fuel as possible in the car a all times :)

Blackwell
ASE Master Technician[/b]
Which is why if you own a 95 or newer GM, especially truck, with the sealed fuel pump assembly, you will forever buy fuel pumps because GM was far too dependent on the fuel to keep the pump cool in their design.
 

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Which is why if you own a 95 or newer GM, especially truck, with the sealed fuel pump assembly, you will forever buy fuel pumps because GM was far too dependent on the fuel to keep the pump cool in their design.[/b]
Yep, I'm working on one right now actually, this one was singing like a fat lady and was pulling a high amp load, customer lives in this car and never has more than 5 bucks in the tank, lol. I also find with the chevy designs if you get the aftermarket pump and don't update the harness it'll come back on yah.
 
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