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i know this has nothing to do with the 6, but i am not an audio person and was too lazy to get on a car audio forum or look it up. can someone please explain to me what a capacitor is and what it does?
 

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Reading Topic: for you audiophiles out there

A quick explanation is that it acts like a storage cell for your battery. You run the cable from your battery to the cap. and then to your amp. This allows less power to be drawn from your battery, usually when the subwoofers in a car hit a deep bass note, which means your headlights will be less likely to dim.
 

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Actually, that's half true. A cap DOES act as a little storage cell for your power, but it's so tiny in comparison to what your amp needs, it's not going to help much, if at all. Yes, it supplies the extra little boost (and I mean little) when your sub hits, but it also presents another drain on your alternator, which negates it's effect almost completely. Besides, the 6 has a large enough alternator where you can push about 600 (plus or minus about 150) watts, using A/B style amps without any side effects. With the 6s, even more power can be used. If you're using class D or T amps for your subs (and you should); you're looking at almost 1200w power handling (again, give or take).

Caps are basically worthless, another snakeoil product brought about by companies that want you spending $60+ extra on your system. If you want something that WORKS, get a deep cycle Optima battery for $100 or so, and replace your stock battery with that, or replace your alternator and wiring with a larger unit. it'll cost a tad more, but you'll actually get results.

And, since you're not an "audio person". I doubt you're going to spend the money to need a larger electrical system, so relax and enjoy the tunes. This isn't a 60 amp alternator like a civic has, this is a quality charger.
 

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An Optima battery for $100 dollars! I don't know where you get yours but hook us up since the decent ones even start to retail over $150 w/ the better ones in the $250 range.

And I was just answering his question on what it does, not offering an opinion on the use of one.
 

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Most places carry the Red top Optimas for about $99. While not being a true deep cycle like the Yellow top, the red is safe to be used to start your car, and still gives you a powerful cell to power everything with.

Oh, and you can find Optima YELLOWS on sale all the time for about $150-160. Just look around.
 

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Of course you can pay for $100+ Optima and have to recharge it every so often or buy a new one when the cells go dead...

OR

You can just buy a higher amp alternator:

http://www.mechman.com/home.html

MechMan specializes in custom alternators. Tell him your year, make, model and desired output and type of finish on the case, and he will build it for you. The cost is more than the Optima Yellow, but in my mind, worth it.
 

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Ummm....Fordman? What are you talking about? The Optima hooks up to the alternator just like the regular battery, because it's REPLACING the stock battery. It has what, a 5 year warranty on it? Probably a lot longer than what the stock battery has. And it recharges when you turn the car on.
 

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Replacing your alternator will void you factory warranty, something I don't think you would want to do...
 

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Look, the i has a 100 amp alternator, and the 2 has a 120. There should be NO reason to upgrade unless you're getting into some serious competition type stereos, simple as that. With some wiring upgrades, you should have more than enough power to deafen you permanently with the stock alternators.
 

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Replying to Topic 'for you audiophiles out there'

QUOTE
Originally posted by Entropism


            Ummm....Fordman?  What are you talking about?  The Optima hooks up to the alternator just like the regular battery, because it's REPLACING the stock battery.  It has what, a 5 year warranty on it?  Probably a lot longer than what the stock battery has.  And it recharges when you turn the car on.[/b]
I was talking about people who use a secondary battery to power their amps, without any alternator connection.
 

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The ONLY time you use a battery to power your system without an alternator hookup is during SPL soundoffs, and that's about it. And with that, you're using multiple batteries, and actually severing the connection to the alternator temporarilly. Most competition circuits don't even use this method anymore, it's just that useless.

Oh, and even a halfway powerful system, requiring an alternator upgrade, say.... 1500w, you kill a battery not hooked up to an alternator in about ohhhhh.... 15 minutes, tops.
 

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BTW.... caps are not only pointless, but not really safe in my opinion either.... there's no need to drive around with that 1/2 stick of dynamite in yer ride... i agree w/ the rest of ya... Optima
 

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That is interesting info on the cap. I actually have been thinking about taking mine out simply because I want to add another 1500bd to my setup and don't have room, but I got the usual salesman spiel about saving battery life, extra bass, etc by using a cap. The Sounddomain forum mentioned the same thing a few times. It's probably time I listen.
 

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Agreed. Caps == snake oil and present a larger load on the alternator than an amp would. And also agreed that they're unnecessarily dangerous.

-Alt
 

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WOW. My resonse to sooperman would be what result are you looking to get? With a 120 a alternator you can efficiently run most sytems without low voltage sound degredation. If you are trying to build an spl vehicle go and by an astro van!!! Consider adding a d class amp for the subs and a four channel a/b for the interior speakers or better yet one of the many 5 channels now available that incorporate all this into one chassis (Kicker KX700.5). For most listeners this will give you all the sound/pound you need without changing anything electrical in the car.
 
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