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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The fmic went in last night, and I'm not sure if I have a boost leak? I was taking it easy and gave maybe 1/4 throttle (~5PSI) and it sounded a little odd. however, I went from the stock bpv to the HKS bpv (recirced), so I was thinking it was that. I didn't want a coupler to pop off on my 20+ mile drive home, and start sucking raw air (and bugs) into my throttle body, so I just stayed out of boost on the way home.

The car did seem to hesitate a couple time on the highway when I went to go into boost, but it could be just that I hadn't eating in a very long time, was tired, and a little paranoid about boost leaks, lol. Also, my LTFT's are hitting -12.4, and then -20.4 or something. I had flashed a custom +fmic map on it before I left, so not sure if that makes sense. I'll cal the MAF no prob, but I don't want to do that if I have a leak. Should I just try to go into full boost, and hope for the best?! lol

Thanks guys

PS. Pics later, and I'm not pressurizing the system with that contraption first. And we used T-bold camps, and tightened those bitches down to the point right before I thought they would fail.
 

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:TTIWWP:

t-bolt clamps are gay. nah, their alright. alot of people swear by them but a good old fashion worm drive has never let me down, people always think they damage hoses and are stupid because they are old technology and because you "feel like a t-bolt is stronger" bad news. they use the same type of metal and are the same size and have worked well forever. and a hammer is old technology but they still haven't found a better idea. don't say nail gun because nothing replaces a hammer.

anyway, weren't you bragging about how your ltft was 0.0 yesterday? what did you do? should have left your map the same and just drove it carefully home. change one thing at a time and you know what the problem is if something goes wrong.

so what is it that makes you think you felt hsitation? drive the fucking thing. if you woke up earlier like a real man you could have come over this am and we would have had time to check over everything you two amateurs did last night but now i have to go to work....

i tell you, some people just never learn...:deadhorse:
 
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Discussion Starter #3
:TTIWWP:

t-bolt clamps are gay. nah, their alright. alot of people swear by them but a good old fashion worm drive has never let me down, people always think they damage hoses and are stupid because they are old technology and because you "feel like a t-bolt is stronger" bad news. they use the same type of metal and are the same size and have worked well forever. and a hammer is old technology but they still haven't found a better idea. don't say nail gun because nothing replaces a hammer.

anyway, weren't you bragging about how your ltft was 0.0 yesterday? what did you do? should have left your map the same and just drove it carefully home. change one thing at a time and you know what the problem is if something goes wrong.

so what is it that makes you think you felt hsitation? drive the fucking thing. if you woke up earlier like a real man you could have come over this am and we would have had time to check over everything you two amateurs did last night but now i have to go to work....

i tell you, some people just never learn...:deadhorse:
T-bolt clamps aren't gay... you are! Lol J/K. Incorrect about the FT's. I wanted to make sure I flashed the FMIC map, because the distance home was enough to break in the map. I'll need to recalibrate the MAF, and it would've been a waste of driving around if I used the old map.... because I woulda had to flash the +FMIC map today anyways, and then drive a bunch of miles to break it in. It will have been a complete waste if I have a boost leak though.

If I woke up earlier, LOL, fuck that. I like staying up late, and sleeping in. And you should be giving us amateurs props for taking on the project, without your "expert" advice! lol Just busting your chops, like your gf chopped off your antenna. I'm going for a spin in a few.

EDIT: Here's a pic for you:

 

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Discussion Starter #5
i replied to your thread on msf, but just so its here too. with the rich fuel trims its most likely a leak in the piping somewhere.
That's what I was thinking when I saw them all rich =(
 

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just make yourself a tester its simple. or just go check all your clamps again and make sure they are straight and what not. if when you are in boost you hear a squeal like letting air out of a balloon while squeezing the end then thats a boost leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just make yourself a tester its simple. or just go check all your clamps again and make sure they are straight and what not. if when you are in boost you hear a squeal like letting air out of a balloon while squeezing the end then thats a boost leak.
That's exactly what I need to know.... damn! I heard some squealing, but I was hoping it just that I wasn't used to the HKS bpv, after the stock. I was thinking if I just try going WOT, I'll see boost getting all whacked out. Is this a bad idea? I'll gonna go see if I can see anything in the engine bay (hoping it's in there, and not under the bumper, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it won't be bad, you'll know right away if there is a problem or the connection will blow off, but if its bead rolled and tight it might just be a pinch in the coupler or something.
I wouldn't be surprised if there was pinch in a coupler... the bottom pipes come down and mate up at a whacky angle. Just grabbed some lunch, heading out for a spin. Let ya know what I hear, oh, and I'll post pics later too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I definitely have a boost leak(s). I'm only holding 5-7 PSI, LOL. Doh! I'll have to put a pressure tested together and see what's going on. I'll have to hunt down a thread on how to put one together. Can I just take of the SF cone and pressurize through there? I don't want to deal with the taking it off the TIP.
 

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Well, I definitely have a boost leak(s). I'm only holding 5-7 PSI, LOL. Doh! I'll have to put a pressure tested together and see what's going on. I'll have to hunt down a thread on how to put one together. Can I just take of the SF cone and pressurize through there? I don't want to deal with the taking it off the TIP.
Here's the thread. I was reading it the other day... I'm planning on making one myself.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/219844-how-find-boost-leak.html#post3089085
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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No problem. Yeah, I want a CPE FMIC, but I'm going to get the ATP or CPE down pipe with hi-flow cat first. I need to be patient and wait for opportunities to buy in the US. I live in Canada and those parts can be expensive if you don't smuggle them in from the US somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No problem. Yeah, I want a CPE FMIC, but I'm going to get the ATP or CPE down pipe with hi-flow cat first. I need to be patient and wait for opportunities to buy in the US. I live in Canada and those parts can be expensive if you don't smuggle them in from the US somehow.
lol, Nice. Well don't over-tighten your clamps, and leave everything loose when it comes time for the fmic. The direction kept saying "make sure everything is TIGHT OR YOU WILL HAVE BOOST LEAKS! <--in all caps like that. So I torqued those clamps down just before the point of failure, lol. Now everyone on the forum is like "don't over-tighten them." CPE istructs ftl

do the pressure test off the inlet pipe, that way you don't pressurize the valve cover
Yeah, Anthony told me if I did it off the intake I'd have to block pull that out and block both off.. I think it'll be easier to do it at the TIP.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, I put together DJ's boost leak tester today (pretty cool device), and I was poking around the engine bay, and noticed something I missed before. We forgot a little something.... We were so consumed with getting the pipes going to the fmic and this other one, which was giving us trouble that we completely forgot to tighten the clamp on the pipe side of the throttle body! :lol: I thought it was missing completely, and then saw where it had slid down the pipe. So, I put her on, and tightened her up pretty good. Re-flashed the same map, and the fuel trims were much better (they were -12, -20 before... horrid).

I tried going like 1/2 throttle into boost, and I saw 10PSI. That was good, let's try WOT.... 17PSI :). I didn't hold WOT to redline, because the coupler isn't 100% on the TB, and I didn't want it to come loose. I couldn't move the pipe into the coupler more, because everything is so damn tight!! :eek: It's all good though. I'm just happy to know that's most likely the culprit. The good news is I wouldn't have made DJ's boost leak tester had this not happened. So now, after we loosen all the pipes and get them in the correct orientation, and tighten them up, we can pressure test it, and be certain there are no leaks.

Thanks DJ :) for the "tester how to," Bova, Skates, and MWSpeed6 for directing me to that thread. I'll let you know how it works out. Gonna take care of it Thursday.
 

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sweet im glad you got it all figured out
 
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