Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! I just got my 6i 5-door two weeks ago, and like many others I love my car but HATE the BLOSE stereo. I've already gotten the door speakers replaced with Polk DB6500 components up front and Polk DB525 coaxials in the rear. These sound considerably better than the Blose garbage that was removed, but I know I'm going to have to put a real amp in there also.

I am not trying to spend a lot of money in doing this. I may not get a sub at all, and if I do, it'll be a ways down the road. Four nice sounding, nicely driven door speakers will likely satisfy me. Besides, if you've ever seen the Blose sub, you'd realize that you weren't missing anything by having it gone anyway:

Yeah, a boomin' 5-inch bass driver mounted inside your spare tire. Earth shattering. :sarc:

I intend to keep the factory HU for the foreseeable future. I've already ordered an Aura 4-channel amp as per DaveRulz' suggestion in another thread, but there are a couple of things I need clarified before I get it all done, because I'm going to pay to get this installed and I don't want to buy

1) Where exactly is the Blose amp? I read somewhere that for 2006 it was moved under the driver's seat instead of the passenger seat. Can someone confirm this? And how hard will it be to access, so I can get to the wires? If I can do this myself and not pay an installer, I'd prefer to go that route.

2) Do I or do I not need an LOC for this system? This is where I have read a dozen different things from a dozen different people. The non-Blose HU has a built in amp, but the Blose HU doesn't, right? If it has line-level output signal already, why can't I mate it directly to the new amp's line in? Since the upgraded speakers are in place, I would ideally like to drop the new amp inline in place of the old one. Line-in to line-in, remote to remote, speaker out to speaker out. I know some cable and bracket adapters will likely be required, but for the most part I want this to be a drop-and-replace. But if I DO need an LOC, please explain to me why, and recommend me one that's not going to break me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
No need for a LOC, you should be able to use the diagrams in the "bose, non-bose, metra and you" thread to tap into the preamp from the headunit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,546 Posts
Your bose sub is in the spare tire "area" ?

Mine is still sitting in the rear dash, not hooked up :/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Heh, yeah for the 5-door hatch they mount the uber-bass driver inside the spare tire. Literally. How's THAT for dampening? :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Got the amp today, and also pulled and examined the Blose amp to gain better knowledge of the enemy...

I think pulling the HU from the dash and tapping from there is a bigger headache than it's worth, so I intend to tap in from the amplifier end. My plan of attack is to desolder the male plug from the Blose amp and then wire the signal, remote, and speaker leads to it from my replacement amp. I shoulda taken pictures when I had the amp disassembled earlier, to better explain exactly what I plan, but maybe I'll have time to pull it again tomorrow. I'll need an amp install kit to wire the new amp to the battery, but the rest of it can use the xisting wires in the harness. Been a while since I've had a little fun with a soldering iron; I'm looking forward to starting this project. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
I don't know why you would go through the trouble of desoldering things from the amp when you can just tap into the wire right there, but that's your perogotive.

How does the quality look on the amp? Nice? Does it have some heft to it. I'm interested to hear your review. At that price they're a steal, but I really want to know how it sounds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
For 2006, the amp was moved under the driver's seat. Don't ask me why. Engineers are crackheads. I only had 4 or 5 inches of usable slack in the wire bundle, which wasn't enough to work with, really.

So I spent a little "quality time" on my knees today tugging and yanking at that damned wiring harness, and finally got a good 2 feet of slack at the amplifier end:

This is good, because I can splice almost everything I need from the wires here. All the line-in signals to the amp, the speaker outs, the remote turn-on, even route a signal to the Blose sub (for now). The only thing I have to add myself is a +12V lead directly from the battery. I doubt the one in the harness is fused for 30 amps. :sarc:

I have a pretty clear picture in my mind how the finished job is gonna look. I hope to start splicing in sometime next week. I wanna do it all in one day so I don't have to go tune-less. I'm going to high-pass the 6 1/2" front speakers at 60Hz, the 5 1/4" rears at around 100-120Hz, and let the factory sub do its thing for now. The final stage will be getting a better sub, and I have another experiment lined up for that, but that's down the road.

More pics and notes to come, soon...
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
About this Discussion
6 Replies
3 Participants
kvndoom
Mazda 6 Forums
Mazda6club.com is a forum dedicated to the Mazda6 / Atenza. Come and discuss reliability, performance, modifications, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top