[THR1LLHOUSE]

So I am gettin to the point where i need to change my oil in my 6 for the first time. I have never changed my own oil before but i have a few questions about it mostly about oil filters. Basically which oil filters can i use?

2007 mazda 6 I-4 100% stock with ~4000km on it. I have all the tools (minus the filter wrench, which is key), oil info and all the required info i can find on the actual process of oil changing but i dont know what filter to get. I was in canadian tire the other day and was looking at some stuff there and decided to check out the oil filter section and there were so freaking many i had no idea where to start.

Any recommends for a proper oil filter (after market would be better because i know a dealer tends to rinse you for everything)?

 

[THR1LLHOUSE]

NM after searching this site a lil harder found this link:

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about2557.html

 

[lncomp]

NM after searching this site a lil harder found this link:

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about2557.html
[/b]

Grats! I was just about to post that link

 

[LG68JCU]

I changed my 6S' oil for the first time Sunday and Holy Shnikies was the Darn Filter a Mother to get free. The factory must have tightened it with 1000 Lbs of torque. Plus you have about an inch or two to work with (Filter wrench) and on all sides is the burning blazes of hell. Exhaust Manifold, Oil pan, generator. Almost had to wear my winter gloves for burning protection. Took me 20 minutes to get the filter free. The position of the drain plug and filter is pour for draining purposes. This is the first car I have to do one at a time or have a separate pan for each.

Yikes. Next one will be a sinch!

 

[jvesik]

Me too. Just did my first oil change at 1300 miles last week. Thanks to the DIY article over on the Mazda6 Tech site. I thought the drain plug came loose quite easily. I was surprised but there was no signs of leakage. Just a slight nudge and it was loose. I don't have a torque wrench. I put it back in with slightly more force. My question is: does this correlate somewhat with the torque readings needed?

On the other hand, yes, the filter is on tight! I use a slip joint style filter plier. It crushed the housing but came off without too much grunting. Those filter straps are harder to use and are an invitation to busted knuckles.

And lastly the new engine with clean oil makes it hard to get a good reading off the dipstick as you pull it out past the bend in the dipstick tube. That bend wants to scrape the reading area on the dipstick so I normally look at the back of the stick. What I've done now is turned the dipstick around so that the crosshatch area is to the back.

 

[AEZicker]

I've found that putting alluminum foil around the manifold when taking off the filter saves you alot of time cleaning up. Also, a smart investment in buying ramps for your car may be a good idea over using a jack. The best way to get that damn filter off is to use one of those caps that goes right over the filter and then either turn it loose or use a wrench to twist the cap/filter.

 

[MZBuckeye]

Me too. Just did my first oil change at 1300 miles last week. Thanks to the DIY article over on the Mazda6 Tech site. I thought the drain plug came loose quite easily. I was surprised but there was no signs of leakage. Just a slight nudge and it was loose. I don't have a torque wrench. I put it back in with slightly more force. My question is: does this correlate somewhat with the torque readings needed?

On the other hand, yes, the filter is on tight! I use a slip joint style filter plier. It crushed the housing but came off without too much grunting. Those filter straps are harder to use and are an invitation to busted knuckles.

And lastly the new engine with clean oil makes it hard to get a good reading off the dipstick as you pull it out past the bend in the dipstick tube. That bend wants to scrape the reading area on the dipstick so I normally look at the back of the stick. What I've done now is turned the dipstick around so that the crosshatch area is to the back.
[/b]

Whoa, what do you mean the pliers crushed the housing?! It's highly recommended you don't use pliers on that plastic housing, if you crack it even the tiniest bit the high pressure oil running through it can cause a catastrophic failure! Best to get the filter cap that fits it to avoid this very dangerous situation.

 

[jvesik]

Whoa, what do you mean the pliers crushed the housing?! It's highly recommended you don't use pliers on that plastic housing, if you crack it even the tiniest bit the high pressure oil running through it can cause a catastrophic failure! Best to get the filter cap that fits it to avoid this very dangerous situation.
[/b]

I don't understand. The filter housing is aluminum. There is no high pressure oil running through it. The engine is off. The oil is drained. Doesn't matter if it's crushed as I never re-use an old filter. Bonus tip: as a last resort, if you have a hung filter you can drive a screwdriver into the housing to try to leverage it off. *edit* of course this is with the 6S V6. I have no idea about the 4 cylinder. Sorry for any confusion.

 

[Raynman]

Whoa, what do you mean the pliers crushed the housing?! It's highly recommended you don't use pliers on that plastic housing, if you crack it even the tiniest bit the high pressure oil running through it can cause a catastrophic failure! Best to get the filter cap that fits it to avoid this very dangerous situation.
[/b]

I don't understand. The filter housing is aluminum. There is no high pressure oil running through it. The engine is off. The oil is drained. Doesn't matter if it's crushed as I never re-use an old filter. Bonus tip: as a last resort, if you have a hung filter you can drive a screwdriver into the housing to try to leverage it off.
[/b]

Whoa major confusion! I believe MZBuckeye is referring to the 6i plastic cap which is prone to cracking. I think 06onyx6 is referring to using pliers to take off the 6s oil filter.

 

[jvesik]

Whoa major confusion! I believe MZBuckeye is referring to the 6i plastic cap which is prone to cracking. I think 06onyx6 is referring to using pliers to take off the 6s oil filter.
[/b]

Yup. Took me a bit to figure it out. I was refering to LG's 6S post. Anyone have any insights into torqueing the oil drain plug? Or maybe I should just get a torque wrench.

 

[Jax6S]

Yup. Took me a bit to figure it out. I was refering to LG's 6S post. Anyone have any insights into torqueing the oil drain plug? Or maybe I should just get a torque wrench.
[/b]

Just use your feeling...tight but not too tight. No torque wrench is necessary.

 

[MZBuckeye]

I don't understand. The filter housing is aluminum. There is no high pressure oil running through it. The engine is off. The oil is drained. Doesn't matter if it's crushed as I never re-use an old filter. Bonus tip: as a last resort, if you have a hung filter you can drive a screwdriver into the housing to try to leverage it off. *edit* of course this is with the 6S V6. I have no idea about the 4 cylinder. Sorry for any confusion.
[/b]

Whoops. Disregard. I had this image of you crushing that plastic housing and reusing it YIKES!

 

[Raynman]

Yup. Took me a bit to figure it out. I was refering to LG's 6S post. Anyone have any insights into torqueing the oil drain plug? Or maybe I should just get a torque wrench.
[/b]

The torque spec for the 6s oil drain plug is 16.3-21.6 ft·lb.

 

[jvesik]

The torque spec for the 6s oil drain plug is 16.3-21.6 ft·lb.
[/b]

In other words, not much? I've read other threads where engines have died from so called "service techs" at quick lube centers over-tightening the drain plug which allowed oil to leak out.

Thanks to all.