[tim fallows]

hi all
I have just bought my first Mazda
Mazda 6 sport nav Tourer 2015
I got a good deal on it private buy with a fault but can't seem to find the issue , all I have is system Malfunction and when reading codes it gives P1336:00-2C crankshaft/camshaft sensor , but trying to see if I can work out which one or do I need to replace both , any help would be great thanks in advance

Tim

 

[Archerfish]

@Trollz3457 might know what to do. I would like to suggest replacing the sensor but there could be an underlying problem that triggered the code.

 

[Trollz3457]

hi all
I have just bought my first Mazda
Mazda 6 sport nav Tourer 2015
I got a good deal on it private buy with a fault but can't seem to find the issue , all I have is system Malfunction and when reading codes it gives P1336:00-2C crankshaft/camshaft sensor , but trying to see if I can work out which one or do I need to replace both , any help would be great thanks in advance

Tim

Hmmmm I don't think I ever ran into that code in my time at mazda but if that's the only present code I would try unplugging either the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensors while the engine is running and see if either causes the engine to run differently. if you unplug one and the engine isn't affected than that could be the problem and you would just have to replace that sensor instead of both. If you really wanted to be sure I'd replace both sensors but understand that there could still be a chance that the problem is more in depth.

 

[tim fallows]

thanks to you both for the advice , I will look at finding and replacing both as a matter of just doing it anyway , that way I am certain that they will not be the problem if it was to persist . thanks

 

[Raymond]

Try and get genuine sensors. Even second hand genuine sensors are better than new chinese crap.

This a petrol?

 

[tim fallows]

My mechanic has suggested changing the timing chain as they stretch , he has said replace with OEM , if they are prone to stretching is there an upgraded chain I can buy which could be better cheers

 

[Archerfish]

@tickerguy and @Byakuya have lots and lots of miles on their car and haven't replaced their timing chain. I think replacing the sensors first and see what happens is better than thinking of replacing the timing chain.

Yes, timing chain will stretch and @tickerguy explained it somewhere how to spot for telltale signs.

 

[Trollz3457]

Yea I have never once actually seen the timing chains go on these skyactives. The early early ones like 13-14 had some issues with the chains but even then not enough for a full recall. Your best bet is just to start with the sensors. No reason to go straight to defcon 5 unless there is clearly a major component failure.

 

[tim fallows]

Ok thanks for that guys will take your advice and stop overthinking things

 

[Alex Mazda6]

hi all
I have just bought my first Mazda
Mazda 6 sport nav Tourer 2015
I got a good deal on it private buy with a fault but can't seem to find the issue , all I have is system Malfunction and when reading codes it gives P1336:00-2C crankshaft/camshaft sensor , but trying to see if I can work out which one or do I need to replace both , any help would be great thanks in advance

Tim

Tim, so far as I can discover, this is a Cam code not a crank code. However, either way, the advice is the same.
Firstly, replacing the chain? How many miles has this done?. If it were a chain, you would most likely have cam/crank correlation codes, (P0016, p0017) meaning the cam and crank are not within the specificed synchronisation range.
This code is indicating a faulty signal from the Cam (not sure if it's inlet or exhaust; not specified, but you can check both)
It could be: 1: power or ground intermittent or solid feed breakdown, 2:wiring harness, crimped wire connector contact issue; 3: cam sensor/s. (one or the other cam sensor).

I'm pretty sure these are 3 wire Hall Effect sensors ... so, to check:
1. Go to Cam Sensors (you can do same for Crank later, but it may be harder to get to) and locate the connector. Disconnect. How do male and female pins look?
Spray some contact cleaner in there. Plug and unplug a few times.Clear code. see how you go.
2. At Cam sensor connector/s: You will have one Batt Feed wire, one Ground, and one Signal ...
Back probe or disconnect and locate one wire with Batt Voltage (Ig On) ... one wire with no voltage, maybe millivolts (that's Ground) ... one wire that could have 5v or 0v (we'll get to that)
3. You've id'd your wires now. If one wire has 5v you've also id'd your signal wire.
On the Batt feed, use a normal 12v automotive test light. Clip it to Batt - (ground) and touch it on the Batt + feed. Will it light your test light? Yes, that's ok. No. You have a voltage drop on the feed wire.
On your Ground, put your test light to Batt+ post on battery ... touch light to ground wire. Does light illuminate? Yes, you have a good ground. No, you have a ground side issue
On your signal wire, using a Volt Meter, with connector plugged in to cam sensor, pos voltmeter lead to signal wire, neg lead to batt ground, when you crank the engine, or the engine is running, do you get a Voltage around roughly 1-3V ... Yes, this indicates that the signal is switching (as it should) between -0v and 5v and your volt meter is reporting a kind of average reading between 0-5.
If you are NOT sure which is ground and which is signal (maybe you got 0v on 2 wires for example, then do this signal test before you do the Batt + to ground test (you don't want to do that test on the signal wire)

If you have good Batt, Good Ground and a good signal ... then you'll have to test other cam sensor and crank because the sensor you tested does not seem to be problem, or we are back at this point to chain issue.

If you have bad Batt or Ground, then you need to backtrack wiring and find the issue --- (different process)

If you have good Batt and good Ground, and bad/no signal, then it most likely a sensor.

Before you buy the sensor, plug in, clear codes, run the engine, lightly! tap on the sensor and watch if you can induce the code to come back ... (not really a very useful test unless you have a scantool to monitor the sensor, but it might show something you can correlate via time of check engine light coming back on -- this is really just a second confirmatory test when you suspect the sensor)

see how you go. Good Luck
Alex

 

[tim fallows]

hi guys
since the first post my car has been sat on the drive in bits , my car is 15 plate Mazda 6 estate GJ 2.2D 175Bhp Skyactive ,
Had it into Mazda main dealers who gave a list of things wrong with the car , took the list and gave it to my mechanic and completed all work on the list and extra as well
so far
cam sensor replaced
timing chain replaced
valves replaced
sleeves and skim on head
new inlet crank shaft
all gaskets replaced turbo stripped and rebuilt with all new gaskets
crank sensor replaced
now the car runs with crankshaft/camshaft sensor Range/Performance fault still there immediately on start up
and an intermittent mis-fire every now and again , mechanic now scratching his head as timing all good and everything new .
any other thoughts would be a godsend
thanks all

 

[juliann1]

welcome along

Tutuapp 9Apps Showbox​

 

[Alex Mazda6]

Oh wow, Tim. I can see you have been taken well down the rabbit hole, unfortunately.
I can try to help by saying this: what is evident is a mountain of expensive parts-changing and major work based on guesstimation by those at the dealer or elsewhere ... what i don't see (and you may just not have logged this) is any evidence of a serious methodical diagnostic process.

My advice, if it helps, is to say - ring around and find a shop that prides itself on diagnostic not parts changin; a diagnostician who demonstrates some experience a methodical approach with a good scan tool and oscilloscope.

Intermittents like this can be very hard to pinpoint and shotgunning parts usually means the problem ends up being in between the shot, if you know what I meam - very many intermittents (and I'm not saying this is the case here) can be caused by dodgy ground circuits or pinning issues at sensors and wiring junctions ... but there are many other possibilities too.

Sensor faults never mean sensors necessarily are bad. They mean either there is a problem in the sensor system, or which part is the sensor itself, or the sensor is faithfully reporting a fault it is registering caused by something else.

Sorry to hear your frustration but hoping to hear a good diagnostic solution.

 

[tim fallows]

Thanks Alex for your reply , you are right and that is my next port of call , I think wiring issue as yesterday I disconnected the cam sensor and started the car and it started as it has when connected, I then connected it and disconnected it and apart from showing engine management light and giving another code there was no difference in how it ran which I have been told is not correct , so off to the electrical bloke on Monday

 

[Alex Mazda6]

Good luck with it Tim. Just to be clear, wasn't meaning to push you down an electrical path; that just one group of possibilities ... I was meaning for you to seek a methodical diagnostic approach ... You have a miss and a cam code ... the two may be related, or not. The cam code may be a sensor or circuit fault, but it can also indicate a cam-crank correlation fault, which is mechanical ... ie a shifted or damaged crank and/or cam trigger wheel or a stretched chain. This can be diagnosed using cam/crank correlation waveforms or an in-cylinder pressure transducer waveform ... it may cause a miss too. The miss may also be fuel related, ignition related or compression related ... that's what I meant to say a full diagnostic approach that confirms what is not wrong, before arriving finally at what must be wrong.
The only other path is guessing, which I believe never comes out ahead. Hope it goes well. Trollz3457 here gives pretty good advice too, Alex

 

[tim fallows]

Hi Alex
It ok you didn’t nudge me down a particular path , I was going to go electrical to rule that part out before we start looking at dismantling the engine again , once electric is ruled out if not electric , it will be having a trip to main dealer to see if they can rectify, I think this is turning into battle of the wills now , my will to see this car running perfect and the cars will to baffle everyone
Thanks for your replies I will keep you updated

 

[tim fallows]

been to auto electrics they have checked over whole car and concluded nothing is wrong with the car electrically , so now booked into a garage for an engine flush as the sparky found metal shavings on the crankshaft sensor , they cleaned it and put it back in and took it back out 5 mins later to find more , they are also saying its a timing issue , so getting the garage to redo the timing again.
still going on with it and still determined to get the car right

 

[Byakuya]

Dang, that's the first time I've heard of anyone having metal in the crank in the 3rd gen - good luck with the repairs and keep us in the know.

 

[tim fallows]

been to 3 garages and all are saying timing not setup properly , mechanic now checked timing again and all seems to be spot on and correct , now still scratching our heads