[Tosko]

Wow, cool!
Checked ebay right away as I am not from the US, cannot go to a local store.

Sad thing is I need to order it from 3 different stores, parts total cost 300 dollars and another 200 for shipping and customs...

 

[dcoulombe]

I have a Fortin Evo One remote starter in my Canadian 2018 GT (equivalent of a us GTR) and unfortunately, the secure key takeover has to be disabled.

When enabled, the front radar cannot be initialized and you get an error message when doing the takeover. The radar cannot be reenabled after that unless you stop and start the car. So no radar cruise control and no automatic braking when remote starting.

I asked the installer to redo the installation without the takeover, so when I open the door, the engine stops.

Fortin's technical support was involved and they weren't able to solve the problem. Maybe with a future firmware. The shop that made the installation will call me back if that happens, but I'm not holding my breath.


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[AllPurposeBen]

I have a Fortin Evo One remote starter in my Canadian 2018 GT (equivalent of a us GTR) and unfortunately, the secure key takeover has to be disabled.

When enabled, the front radar cannot be initialized and you get an error message when doing the takeover. The radar cannot be reenabled after that unless you stop and start the car. So no radar cruise control and no automatic braking when remote starting.

I asked the installer to redo the installation without the takeover, so when I open the door, the engine stops.

Fortin's technical support was involved and they weren't able to solve the problem. Maybe with a future firmware. The shop that made the installation will call me back if that happens, but I'm not holding my breath.


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I don’t think the compustar system has this issue. Do you get an actual error about the sensor being disabled or does adaptive cruise just not engage?

 

[AllPurposeBen]

Since adding the DroneMobile module I’ve noticed that it thinks that doors are unlocked and open when they are closed and the usual proximity lock happens. Sending a lock command from the app then shows the closed/lock state correctly. This doesn’t seem to inhibit remote starts but is annoying to see the incorrect status all the time.

 

[dcoulombe]

I don’t think the compustar system has this issue. Do you get an actual error about the sensor being disabled or does adaptive cruise just not engage?

I've had the following error message displayed in the multi information display : Front Radar Sensor System Malfunction.

The message was displayed right after the takeover and every time I tried to enable the adaptative cruise control after that.

Everything worked normally after restarting the car or when starting the car with the push button (without remote starting).

This must be related to the fact that the 2018 has a new radar system with stop and go.


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[AllPurposeBen]

This must be related to the fact that the 2018 has a new radar system with stop and go.

My ‘18 GTR with compustar doesn’t do this, post takeover works. Wonder what’s different between the 2 systems, maybe there’s an enable CANbus call for the radar system that isn’t happening for you.

For me the only goofy takeover related thing is that before takeover happens, the TPMS light is on. Goes out after takeover but threw me the first week or so.

 

[dcoulombe]

My ‘18 GTR with compustar doesn’t do this, post takeover works. Wonder what’s different between the 2 systems, maybe there’s an enable CANbus call for the radar system that isn’t happening for you.

For me the only goofy takeover related thing is that before takeover happens, the TPMS light is on. Goes out after takeover but threw me the first week or so.

I also had this problem with the TPMS system.

It's good to know that you don't have the radar problem. Gives me hope that they'll eventually find a solution.


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[Guest]

Anyone have the part number for the extra weblink harness to program?


Also, where is the actual harness that I disconnect to install this? The manual online for the unit is worthless. I have the CM-DC3 and the MA3 T-harness.

 

[Archerfish]

Anyone have the part number for the extra weblink harness to program?


Also, where is the actual harness that I disconnect to install this? The manual online for the unit is worthless. I have the CM-DC3 and the MA3 T-harness.

Check his YouTube, he replied to me. I think he's no longer active here.

 

[Guest]

Can we confirm that the below included part #’s will work on my 2018 Signature? Anything else I need?

- Compustar FT-DC3-LC remote start module
OR
- iDatastart FT-900s-HCF remote start module
- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness

I couldn’t find any difference between the FT-DC3 and FT-900 module, aren’t they same company?

 

[AllPurposeBen]

Can we confirm that the below included part #’s will work on my 2018 Signature? Anything else I need?



- Compustar FT-DC3-LC remote start module

OR

- iDatastart FT-900s-HCF remote start module

- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness



I couldn’t find any difference between the FT-DC3 and FT-900 module, aren’t they same company?

You’ll need the USB interface module to program the FT-DC3. Part: ADS-USB

http://compustar.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/45

You’ll also need to splice a few wires for the hood sensor and parking lights so tools and splice hardware of your choice.

 

[Guest]

If I go with the 900S, do I still need the usb interface?

 

[AllPurposeBen]

If I go with the 900S, do I still need the usb interface?

If they are indeed the same device under different brand names, I don’t see why you would need it for one and not the other.

 

[Ken Varn]

I wish I would have known that secure takeover with remote start was possible before I saw this thread.

When I purchased my 2018 Mazda 6 last year, the dealer offered to install after-market remote start in my car as part of the deal. They installed a Fortin EVO-ALL remote start that works with my Mazda 6 factory remote. Later, I had them also add in smartphone remote-start, and they used Viper for that. I don't know much about remote-start systems, and the dealer was not very forthcoming on the installation details. It is a bit annoying to have the car shut-off after remote-starting it. Secure takeover would be great, but I don't want to have to buy a whole new remote-start system for that. Does anyone know if it is possible to get secure takeover to work with the remote start setup that I currently have installed?

 

[dcoulombe]

Hi, I have a Fortin Evo One, which is similar. My system use secondary long range remotes. It was supposed to have secure takeover, but the shop that made the installation wasn't able to make it work correctly. They were in contact with the Fortin tech support and the only solution was to redo the installation without the takeover.

My problem was that the MRCC cruise control and probably everything radar related was disable when using the remote starter.

They redid the installation free of charge and will call me back if a firmware update corrects the problem. I'm not holding my breath, thought.

According to my research, they have the same problem with the 2018 CX5.


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[Guest]

Ok, so I had my local tint shop install a “3x lock ALCA compustar” and a “DC-3” module. I am able to retain my OEM keyfob and activate remote start by doing Lock, Unlock, Lock. Here’s where my issues begin:

1. I can’t get in the vehicle by hitting the unlock button on the door handle. I must use the keyfob. Post remote start install, completely have lost the ability to use the door lock buttons on the handle, regardless if utilizing remote start or not.

2. Once I open the door, vehicle is still on and all, which is good. However, I see an error message on the dash that says several things like, “Keyless System Malfunction,” “Key not detected,” and “Key FOB battery low. Hold key close to start button.”

3. In addition, my camera is showing up very “staticy” on the screen. Almost as if the monitor is losing the signal to the camera. Not very drastic, but definitely noticeable. Almost like when back in the day, the coaxial wire to the back of your tv wasn’t screwed in all the way.

Secure takeover has only worked 2 out of 10 attempts. I have to literally put the key fob to the “Push to start” button and hope it catches on. Every single time I have put my foot on the brake pedal, the car turns off, regardless if I had the fob on my lap or touching the “push to start button.”

Also, during a “non-remote start” entry, I can no longer just hop in the car, foot on brake pedal, and hit the push to start button while the key is in my pocket, nearby, etc. I literally have to touch the key fob to the start button every single time, whether post remote start or just regular manually starting myself.

Any thoughts, advice? Tint shop is closed until Monday. I had my cousin pick up the car today so I wasn’t able to bring these issues up.

 

[AllPurposeBen]

Ok, so I had my local tint shop install a “3x lock ALCA compustar” and a “DC-3” module. I am able to retain my OEM keyfob and activate remote start by doing Lock, Unlock, Lock. Here’s where my issues begin:

1. I can’t get in the vehicle by hitting the unlock button on the door handle. I must use the keyfob. Post remote start install, completely have lost the ability to use the door lock buttons on the handle, regardless if utilizing remote start or not.

2. Once I open the door, vehicle is still on and all, which is good. However, I see an error message on the dash that says several things like, “Keyless System Malfunction,” “Key not detected,” and “Key FOB battery low. Hold key close to start button.”

3. In addition, my camera is showing up very “staticy” on the screen. Almost as if the monitor is losing the signal to the camera. Not very drastic, but definitely noticeable. Almost like when back in the day, the coaxial wire to the back of your tv wasn’t screwed in all the way.

Secure takeover has only worked 2 out of 10 attempts. I have to literally put the key fob to the “Push to start” button and hope it catches on. Every single time I have put my foot on the brake pedal, the car turns off, regardless if I had the fob on my lap or touching the “push to start button.”

Also, during a “non-remote start” entry, I can no longer just hop in the car, foot on brake pedal, and hit the push to start button while the key is in my pocket, nearby, etc. I literally have to touch the key fob to the start button every single time, whether post remote start or just regular manually starting myself.

Any thoughts, advice? Tint shop is closed until Monday. I had my cousin pick up the car today so I wasn’t able to bring these issues up.

I’m wondering if they didn’t use a t-harness and did a generic wiring job. I have a DC-3 with the t-harness and have no issues like that. The fact that the ignition system can’t recognize the key correctly leads me to think they wired something incorrectly, which could only happen if they didn’t use the t-harness.

 

[dcoulombe]

@Mike1Bravo
I'm not a remote start specialist, but this doesn't seem right to me. I would go back to the shop and ask politely to redo the installation.

The only limitation I have with my Fortin Evo One is the secure takeover that is disabled. Everything else works normally.


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[blackngold75]

Is the battery in the key fob any good? Some of the problems sound like they could be related to a dead fob battery.

 

[Guest]

I’m wondering if they didn’t use a t-harness and did a generic wiring job. I have a DC-3 with the t-harness and have no issues like that. The fact that the ignition system can’t recognize the key correctly leads me to think they wired something incorrectly, which could only happen if they didn’t use the t-harness.

When you say T-Harness, are you referring to:
ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness? The only items I was billed for was for the two items I listed above in original post.

If so, I’ll definitely bring it up to them.