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With the T Harness, they don't need to cut any wires, correct?
I was reading through the install guides on the iDatalink website, and it looks like there are at least two splices that need to be made: to the ignition, and to the parking lights. Although, it's a little difficult to understand what guide I should be reading. I chose this one.

I talked to a shop a few months ago about doing this install, and now that it is getting cold I'm going to call them again today. I miss having remote start in the winter.
 

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I was reading through the install guides on the iDatalink website, and it looks like there are at least two splices that need to be made: to the ignition, and to the parking lights. Although, it's a little difficult to understand what guide I should be reading. I chose this one.

I talked to a shop a few months ago about doing this install, and now that it is getting cold I'm going to call them again today. I miss having remote start in the winter.
In that manual under the section for Mazda 6 AT with T harness, looks like the only splices are for the horn (optional) and the parking lights (I'd consider that optional as well). The only other connections are the ignition via the T harness and a hood switch.

I called a local shop and they install this unit, will probably have it installed early next week. I'd opt to skip the horn and parking lights, not critical to function and I'd prefer to avoid any cutting of wires.

I did also ask about switching the start key sequence to a lock-unlock-lock and they said it's something they can do. Will report back next week with practical findings.
 
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Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this. Purchased the idatastart hcx000a, the Mazda t-harness and weblink adapter. The weblink adapter is required for our vehicles. I plan on doing the install myself and confirmed with the supplier I will be able to set the start sequence to lock, unlock, lock so I’m not the jerk neighbor honking my horn at 5am. Picked everything up everything for $190.
 

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Please let us know the degree of difficulty on the install. I've got a quote from an installer but would prefer to do it myself if I can.
 

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I opted to just have mine done professionally. Sounds like the programming step requires connecting the module to a computer with a special adaptor and access to vendor utility to program it. Between that and the 3 or so hard wired connections, it was worth the roughly $100 to just have someone else do it.

Can confirm that a no-honk lock-unlock-lock option is available and it seems there's a hood sensor built in (to the 2018 6 at least) already. Remote range is ok, might look into a Drone kit for mobile app. Might try to MacGyver my own with an AutoPi if I can figure out the data link between the HC and the add on modules. I'd like to be able to set climate and seat heat/cool settings remotely and an AutoPi might be able to do it.
 

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I decided to have mine installed also, rather than doing it myself. Total cost for me was just under $300, and the install itself took maybe an hour. What was installed was:
- Compustar FT-DC3-LC remote start module
- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness

The remote start works with the factory keyfobs. I chose not to add on any extended range remotes. I also had the remote start sequence changed to "Lock>Unlock>Lock" so no honking of the horn for multiple Lock button presses in a row.

A few observations on the functionality:
- Secure takeover happens once you enter the car and press the brake pedal. At that time, the Infotainment system boots up and the automatic climate controls kick in (versus dash fan running high speed after remote start and before takeover)
- Following remote start, if the keyfob is NOT in the vehicle and the brake pedal is pressed the engine shuts off
- The Auto headlights are disabled during remote start. So, even if it's dark out and I remote start the car, only the parking lights come on until the brake pedal is pressed

I had remote start on my past two cars, and that was one thing I was missing on the Mazda6... until now.
 
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Installed the following parts in my 2015 mazda 6 earlier this year.

- iDataStart HCX000A remote start module ($130)
- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness ($40 i think)

Not too hard of an install. Hardest part IMO is getting the wires connected to the turn signal stock. There are little wires you need to be able to connect to and I chose to solder mine to make it more secure. Not too much room for error with how much extra wire is available. The hood sensor is optional and you dont have to do anything special if you dont want installed... just dont install it.

All in all its a great product that was fairly easy to install. Do know if you plan to do the programming yourself then you need a PC (not a mac) and the $20 adapter from amazon. I have mine set on lock-unlock-lock. Love the secure takeover and how it doesn't shut off the engine when you open the door.
 

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Do know if you plan to do the programming yourself then you need a PC (not a mac) and the $20 adapter from amazon. I have mine set on lock-unlock-lock. Love the secure takeover and how it doesn't shut off the engine when you open the door.

Aside from the adaptor, did you need to pay for any software? I’m thinking of adding a drone remote module and tweaking some other settings. Would be convenient to be able to do that myself.
 

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So, from what I've read, this will work with the Sport trim, right? But, I would like to hear it from people who actually have the Sport model. Has anyone here who doesn't have the unlock button on the door handle installed this? And did it work?
 

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...the automatic climate controls kick in (versus dash fan running high speed after remote start and before takeover)

Question on this. If the auto climate control isn't kicked in yet, is it at least blowing either cold or hot air depending on conditions? So auto temp is working but not auto fan?
The climate control auto temperature setting seems like it is working, but the system seems to "know" that the car has been remote started, without an occupant. For example, this morning the windshield was frosted over. When I remote started it went into full defrost mode and cleared the windshield pretty quickly. Upon takeover, the fan resumed to a "normal" speed as you would expect during regular operation.
 

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Aside from the adaptor, did you need to pay for any software? I’m thinking of adding a drone remote module and tweaking some other settings. Would be convenient to be able to do that myself.


Software is free. There’s a place on idatalink to download it. Just need a PC. I only have a Mac so I went into a Best Buy auto place and the guy was nice enough to configure my module for free!! It only took him like three minutes.

Also in regards for the ac settings. It will be set on for what you had it on last when you turned off the car. So you have to remember to turn the heat up and fans on high at the end of the night to have it heat up quicker in the morning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I just did the install myself over the weekend. I did have to buy the additional adapter to program myself ($25) but now I can update and reprogram to any other cars if I trade in. The install was extremely easy. I wanted to see if I could do strictly plug and play without splicing any wires. Found out you can. The parking lights still flash when it starts but do not stay on while running. This makes the install way easier as previously stated the wires for the parking lights are extremely short and I did not want to try and cut into them if I didn’t have to. Everything works great. Highly recommended.

I found the best price from lockdown security in Canada but there were postal strikes that delayed delivery.

I have a 2014 Touring with the push to start but without the door handle button and everything works great.
 

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I just did the install myself over the weekend. I did have to buy the additional adapter to program myself ($25) but now I can update and reprogram to any other cars if I trade in. The install was extremely easy. I wanted to see if I could do strictly plug and play without splicing any wires. Found out you can. The parking lights still flash when it starts but do not stay on while running. This makes the install way easier as previously stated the wires for the parking lights are extremely short and I did not want to try and cut into them if I didn’t have to. Everything works great. Highly recommended.

I found the best price from lockdown security in Canada but there were postal strikes that delayed delivery.

I have a 2014 Touring with the push to start but without the door handle button and everything works great.
What additional adapter? Part #? How much was the total cost since it was DIY?
 

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So far I've been mostly happy with the system. It did stop working for some reason earlier this week. The car registered the lock/unlock/lock commands but no remote start. It also then didn't blink out any error codes (it flashes the parking lights to display errors). Disconnected and reconnected the battery and it came back so we'll see how it fares.

I have found the range of the remote hit and miss. Sometimes it works from surpassingly far away, sometimes less than 50 feet. I'm considering just adding the DroneMobile module on my own, looks like it doesn't require reprogramming the start module and is really just a plugin it in, mount it and register the module with the provider type deal. Reading up on people's complaints about the DroneMobile system first as really crappy reviews are the main reason I opted not to use the MazdaMobile starter. I see they have an Alexa skill but it looks kinda limited. Would love for an API to be available and/or an ITTT integration.
 

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I just did the install myself over the weekend. I did have to buy the additional adapter to program myself ($25) but now I can update and reprogram to any other cars if I trade in. The install was extremely easy. I wanted to see if I could do strictly plug and play without splicing any wires. Found out you can. The parking lights still flash when it starts but do not stay on while running. This makes the install way easier as previously stated the wires for the parking lights are extremely short and I did not want to try and cut into them if I didn’t have to. Everything works great. Highly recommended.

I found the best price from lockdown security in Canada but there were postal strikes that delayed delivery.

I have a 2014 Touring with the push to start but without the door handle button and everything works great.
What additional adapter? Part #? How much was the total cost since it was DIY?
$190 for all the parts. You need to buy the starter, harness, and the weblink module that connects the starter to your computer for programming ($20 on eBay).
 

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A strange issue popped up with my remote start (Compustar FT-DC3-LC). Yesterday morning, the car did not start using the Lock>Unlock>Lock sequence. I thought the module had failed, until I accidentally figured out that now it is remote starting with the sequence Unlock>Lock>Unlock, which shouldn't even be an option at least according to the manuals I've been able to find online. I'm taking it in to have it looked at, but now I'm probably going to buy the weblink module so I can program options myself if I need to.
 

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A strange issue popped up with my remote start (Compustar FT-DC3-LC). Yesterday morning, the car did not start using the Lock>Unlock>Lock sequence. I thought the module had failed, until I accidentally figured out that now it is remote starting with the sequence Unlock>Lock>Unlock, which shouldn't even be an option at least according to the manuals I've been able to find online. I'm taking it in to have it looked at, but now I'm probably going to buy the weblink module so I can program options myself if I need to.


I’m having this issue too. First time I noticed it wasn’t starting, I pulled battery and it worked normally for a few days. Noticed again this week and tried u/l/u and found that to work. I’m wondering if the proximity lock function on that car is a factor.

I’m going to have the Drone Mobile add on installed this week which will hopefully make it a non issue but I will bring it up with the installer and see if it’s a programming adjustment.
 

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So, I had my installer look at it and they were scratching their collective heads a little on why the Unlock>lock>Unlock sequence was working, saying they had never seen that happen. They reflashed the starter module and reprogrammed. We'll see how it goes...
 
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