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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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UPDATE: 2014 I like to help people and I want all of you to be successful. With that, I'll do what I can. In return, a kind word or a simple "Thanks" goes a long ways towards keeping the spirit alive. Its also the right thing to do when someone ASKS for help! Thats it. Do the right thing and people will respect you.

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Ok - as the title show this is to be a running list of links and info I found to be useful. Not sure where it will land but here is where it begins! Oh - because I like to help people but tire of typing the same thing over and over, each post will serve as link to solve something that repeats. So scroll on down and see where you land.

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FSM:
Our owners manual says we can order these; here are some 2006 Mazda part numbers service manuals.

9999-95-063B-06 Work Shop Manual
9999-95-039G-06 Wiring diagram
9999-95-078C-06R Owners Manual (USA)

However - if you Google "mazdaserviceinfo" and the numbers provided, good things happen!!

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Material Name MNAO Part No. Mazda Material No. # Google: "mazdaserviceinfo" AND 9999-XXXXX
9999–95–101F–03, 2003 (U.S.A.)/2004 (Canada) Mazda6 Service Highlights, 3372–1U–02I
9999–95–MODL–04, 2004 Mazda MX-5 Miata/MX-5, MAZDASPEED MX-5, Mazda6, MPV Service Highlights, 3384–1U–03H
9999–95–101F–04, 2004 Mazda6 Hatchback Wagon Service Highlights Supplement, 3394–1U–04A
9999–95–063B–05, 2005 Mazda6 Workshop Manual, 1825–1U–04H
9999–95–063B–06, 2005 Mazda6 Workshop Manual,
9999–95–EAJV–03, Engine Workshop Manual AJ with Variable Valve Timing, 1766–1U–02I
9999–95–LFL3–04, Engine Workshop Manual LF L3, 1792–1U–03I
9999–95–FN4A–04, Automatic Transaxle Workshop Manual FN4A-EL, 1793–1U–03I
9999–95–0G35–03, Manual Transaxle Workshop Manual A65M-R, 1755–1U–02I
9999–95–0G35–03, Manual Transaxle Workshop Manual G35M-R, 1756–1U–02I
9999–95–099F–03, 2003 (U.S.A.)/2004 (Canada) Mazda6 Bodyshop Manual, 3373–1U–02I
9999–95–099F–04, 2004 Mazda6 Hatchback Wagon Bodyshop Manual Supplement, 3393–1U–04A
9999–95–039G–05, 2005 Mazda6 Wiring Diagram, MM5615–1U–04H
9999–95–OBD2–00, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 OBD-II Service Highlights, 3344–1U–99K
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Please READ COPY RIGHT INFO: http://www.mazdaserviceinfo.com/PDFs/privacy.pdf Excerpt: These materials may not be copied for commercial use or distribution, nor may these materials be modified or reposted to other sites.

BUT YOU CAN BUY THEM FOR CHEAP!!! Select a Subscription:
Your Subscription provides you with access to all electronic information contained in the site. You may access the information as often as you wish during the time period of the subscription you purchase.
Online Vehicle Service Manuals: All Models 1996 to Present
Online Technical Service Bulletins: All Models 1990 to Present

You can get 24 hour access to the site and download at will for $20 USD!
Electronic Service Information

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INDEX OF THIS THREAD (Updated 2013-11-08)

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** ENGINE HEALTH - MISFIRES P030#, OIL Consumption - all related!!! **
Video - Understanding misfire codes, COP testing P030X

Random misfire detected (P0300)

Thought on Diagnoses of continous P030X

How failed COPs cause OIL CONSUMPTION!

6s (V6) PCV Valve Failure, Excessive Oil Consumption THE TRUTH, NOT THE STICKY!!! fact vs Myths/post...

How To Set V6 VVT CAM TIMING!! Tips - Pics

Pre-CAT failures; Why! (JMO)

How to tell if PRE-CAT Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) is working

When Bad things happen; Open the Oil Filter!


** SPECs, HOW THINGS WORK, 2006 OWNERS MANUAL INFO **
TSB's / FSMs

2006 Mazda 6 Owners Manual Information

ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL DESCRIPTION

V6 Auto owners, Do this NOW! Lag, Hesitation, Abrupt shifts (FIXED)

RANDOM EXCERPTS FROM AJ FSM, Sensors that get measured....


** MIL // CEL CODES + AW6A-EL CODES!!! **
Mazda6s V6 (AJ) MIL/CEL Codes

AW6A-EL 2006 V6s Six Speed ATX MIL codes

WARNING to CAN BUS SCANNERS! Scanner shutdown link & applied brakes (U1900 ABS)!!

Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android


** SUSPENSION AND BRAKES!!! **
Mazda 6 Front Wheel Alignment Tip, Camber Caster Adjustments

Brake Bleeding; Pressure vs Vacuum

** SECURITY AND LOCKS **
Inside the Flip Key, How to Program Door Remote


** FINAL IMPACTs 6s MAINTENANCE LOG!!! **
My 6 and what's up: 2006 6s little things I've done along the way
Spark plugs, PCV, Igntion Coils, Flush Power steering, Flush ATX trans fluid, Brake Rotors, Water Pump, coolant flush, brake fluid flush. The Fun stuff.

DIY Water Pump Replacement, Coolant T By-Pass

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WEB LINKS:
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News - 6Crew Home << be a member there! Lots of good info!!!
DIY: 3.0L V6 Timing Chain Removal and Installation (and more) << How to install and time your 6 Cams! Well Done!!!
Ford & Mazda 3.0L V6 Timing Chain Replacement
2006 mazda 6 service bulletin - PDFs Search engine. Free unlimited pdf search and download. << a laundry list of TSBs on the web.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/dyno-track/247399-prepping-dedicated-track-car.html Thanks Canyon! Very helpful! Lots of pictures for V6 fans...
http://forum.mazda6club.com/2-3l-i-4/148726-mazda-6i-2-3l-i-4-cel-codes.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/239315-possible-causes-cat-precat-failure.html#post3309150 Pictures of dead CATs!


Threads of Mine:
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http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/259617-gen-1-scan-logs-post-up-ltft-stft-ignition-advance-lets-compare.html << Lets Compare V6 Health!
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/258755-final-impact-bottom-up-pictures-under-06-v6-6spd-atx.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/258907-aj-3-0-camshaft-timing-events-lift-duration-open-close-vvt-operation-etc.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/suspension-brakes/258375-toe-vs-camber-vs-tread-wear-alignment-q.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/newbie-section/256342-picked-up-06-gs-hatchback-todo-list.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/259075-6s-v6-pcv-valve-failure-excessive-oil-consumption-rev-2-a.html << Facts, Lies, Missconception, Neglect, ENGINE FAILURE and BLAME!!!
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/256239-newby-day-2-notice-tick-noise-under-load.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/electrical/119494-keyless-remote-entry-2.html#post3491755
http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-engine-drivetrain/257790-understanding-spark-plug-heat-range-autolite-spark-plugs-vid-worth-watching.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/257886-what-happens-when-you-dont-change-your-oil.html
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LOST YOU KEYS // FOB?? Check this out: https://mazda.locksmithsdrm.com/ma-sdrm/
Read the FSM and and tells you how to use these codes from this sight in the Security and Locks sections to program your ECM to recognize a new key...

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Thread Tags so I can find my stuff! JMD902 JJD952
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Videos that may help you

Videos - What is a MISFIRE, what does it feel like, how do I detect it. How to test coil packs i.e. P030X codes....

http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/257789-understanding-misfire-codes-vid-worth-watch.html
I'm not sure how long this vid will be hosted, but its worth a watch if you have performance issues, CEL/MIL light etc.


This is for the WIN!!! Watch it couple times as the speaker nails everything you should be considering! Listen closely at 9:35"

Not bad infor here either, had the video shown where the spark DID jump when the gap was increased, that would be good to know. Also with an added ground wire you can hover around the coils body and the spark should not jump through the body or boot. If it does, its defective and will cause misfires!

With a scan tool; confirm Bank1 sensor1, and Bank2 Sensor1 track each other and have not gotten lazy. The advantage of having a V6!


This is the MOST PAINFUL THREAD EVER!!! WHERE WAS YOUTUBE WHEN THEY NEEDED IT??
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/220851-hesitation-thing-again.html A few along the way realized the coils were the main cause of the Misfires - from 2008.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Mazda 6 Owners manual information:

From the 2006 Owners Manual:



Redline D4 says it meets both specs for ATF (Red Line Synthetic Oil - Automatic Transmission Fluids - D4 ATF).

ROYAL PURPLE MAX ATF is recommended for use in transmissions with these requirements: JWS 3309, JWS 3314, JWS 3317, Toyota T-III, T-IV.
FWIW: Called tech support on this; they said this product is SAFE to mix with existing dino fluids as it is completely compatible!!! I think the AW6A holds 7.3 qts empty and replaced 4 qts today. Other than Mazda (other dealerships), this was the only product I could find that meets JWS 3309/T-IV spec.

This is another option but no one stocked it.
Mobil ATF 3309 is recommended for use in transmissions made by Aisin-Warner requiring fluids approved against JWS 3309 or GM 9986195. It is also recommended for service fill applications where Toyota T-IV, T4, T-III or T3 are called for. Please refer to the owners’ manual for proper fluid requirements. ATF | Mobil™ ATF 3309
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
My 6 and what's up:

My 6 and what's up: Problems, solutions, and things I needed to figure out.

2012-12-27; Spark Plugs and COPs

PLUGS:
Its time for spark plugs @78,000 and I'm thinking the coils may as well get done too. I wanted to see the difference in Autolite XP103 Vs XP104 plugs and went to the manufactures site. Autolite - Part Details which also has a nice cross reference chart for Autolite, Bosch, Denso, Motorcraft, NGK. The site says the heat range is G14 and doesn't say where or what "G14" is. I'm pretty sure the 103 is 1 degree cooler. The 6 has AGSF12FC in it now and the color on the front 3 look good, so those are going back in aka - XP103. One should note OEM Gap on these plugs is different as is the heat range..

From this I have the following: Xtreme Performance
XP104 applicable to 2003-2005 3.0 // Gap = 0.051"
XP103 applicable to 2006-2008 3.0 // Gap = 0.044" = Motorcraft AGSF12FC

LAME heat range chart from Autolite: http://www.cvproducts.com/upfiles/Autolite.pdf

COPs - COIL OVER PLUGS:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/246113-replacing-ignition-coils-2.html#post3482557

Part Numbers:
Motocraft PN DG-513, DG-500, DG-486, UF-406, Ford part number 1L8U-12A366-AA, 1L8E-12A366-AB, Visteon 60-1002

Beck/Arnley - Direct Ignition Coil Part # 178-8365 (1788365).

After reading on 6crew about the failure rate of WX coils - I'm bumping then in favor of OEM spec. But here is some info I found on them.
If using WeaponX or 4V choose a PN: NOT ending with "AD"
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 2M2E12A366AC, 2M2Z12029AC, AJ5118100, AJ5118100A, Other PN: UF406
These can be used on our V6
WeaponX Part Numbers ICK6402, ICK6202, WXCFD4V-r#efx << called them, left a msg 519.341.4125 ARE THESE A BOLT IN?
ALL DOHC (dual overhead cam AJ 3.0)
Replaces Motocraft PN DG-513, DG-500, DG-486, UF-406
Ford part number 1L8U-12A366-AA, 1L8E-12A366-AB
Visteon 60-1002

http://www.weaponxperformance.com/technicalPDF/WeaponX Ignition Coil Interchange.pdf
Ignition Coils : WeaponX Performance Products LTD., High Performance Ignition Equipment
ICK8002 Level 1 Street Coil Kit Ford Modular V8 2V XCOP Street - Ford 2V Performance Replacement Ignition Coils ((NO observed bolt down option))
ICK8004 Level 1 Street Coil Kit Ford Modular V8 4V XCOP Street - Ford 4V Performance Replacement Ignition Coils
140034-8 - Ford Mod Motor - Super Coil - 4-Valve - 8-Pack, ACCEL yellow coil has no means of bolting down as best I can tell. ACCEL Super Coils 140034-8 - SummitRacing.com << Link has some good details.

2012-12-28: Transmission Fluid for the AW6A-EL // ATF Type T-IV, JWS 3309 http://forum.mazda6club.com/atx-transmission-discussion/140773-critical-2005-atx-6spd-aisin-transmission-warning.html

SOME SOURCES:
Audi PN: G-055-025-A2
Ford PN: WSS-M2C924-A
Lexus PN: JWS 3309/Type T-IV
Porsche Type: JWS 3309/Type T-IV
GM/Saturn PN: GM9986195
Toyota Type: JW 3309/Type T-IV //PN: 08886–01705
Volkswagen PN: G-055-025-A2


ROYAL PURPLE MAX ATF is recommended for use in transmissions with these requirements: JWS 3309, JWS 3314, JWS 3317, Toyota T-III, T-IV. Max ATF ? Automatic Transmission Fluid - Royal Purple FWIW: Called tech support on this; they said this product is SAFE to mix with existing dino fluids as it is completely compatible!!! I think the AW6A holds 7.3 qts empty I replaced 4 qts today. Other than Mazda (other dealerships), this was the only product I could find that meets JWS 3309/T-IV spec.

Mobil ATF 3309 is recommended for use in transmissions made by Aisin-Warner requiring fluids approved against JWS 3309 or GM 9986195. It is also recommended for service fill applications where Toyota T-IV, T4, T-III or T3 are called for. Please refer to the owners’ manual for proper fluid requirements. ATF | Mobil™ ATF 3309

2012-12-28: POWER STEERING FLUID // 2006 S Mazda M-V or Equiv
I went to do the flush on this and found I didn't have the proper hose size to connect to it and flush as I expected. I did the next best thing and sucked it out with a 600CC syringe and silicon hose. On the S model, you can shove a small hose clear down to the pumps inlet via the reservoir and get allot of fluid out. I turned the wheel full left BEFORE I sucked the resiv dry, then all the way right and sucked that out. Filled it, bumped the key, filled it, bump the key and it only groaned for a moment.


2012-12-30: Side effects of transmission dump/fill with 4 qts synthetic oil
Throttle lag has dissapeared again. When warm the trans has thing where you just begin to leave a light taking off and it does this little JERK thing where its not slipping, but the car is not moving far, and if the throttle isn't applied just right, it does a very minor jolt. That is gone and the tranny when filled with R/P Max ATF, shifts differently than it did. It never slipped or flared, shifts points where good, it'd spin tires into traction control if on it in 1st/2nd. This lowered the shift points but all gears are solid (as seen by tach, tone, and feel of car). I don't know how to describe it, but its very different. Smooth, but solid. In the spring I'll dump out another 4 qts and add some more R/P synthetic.


2013-01-13: String align and tape measure toe in
Ya, in the bitter cold I did a string align of the front and rear of the car. Not having a good means of checking the camber I used my trusty Craftsmen digital level in the parking lot to get an idea of the camber. Roughly -0.4 on both sides up front and -1.5 in the rear. Later this week she's getting poked at by the boys with a real machine so I'll see just how close my backwoods alignment is. Oh - do the outer edge wear I toed the nose and tail in to 1/32" via the outer edge of a 25" tire. We shall see!

2013-01-17 - double check!
Click picture to FOLLOW LINK to V6 ATX underside pictures....



2013-02-02 - Spark Plugs!
Unknown miles on these but it was time...


Intake plenum off. Looking good for 80,000 miles! That took about 45min to get that shot. 20 of which was trying to detach the wire harness from the manifold.



2013-08-17 - Rotors & general update
Six has been trouble free. Only issue to report is not the cars fault - got a new wheel a while back compliments of a pot hole. Debating whether to have it straightened or just mount it on the wall as a keep sake! lol

Installed are Centric 120.61088 Rotors and 105.11640 Ceramic pads front. Rear 105.11610. Also, should you use their rotor its coated with a rust inhibitor. Although I cleaned pad area, as soon I went for a drive and heated the rotors, they sprayed out that rust inhibitor all over the inside my rims. I was alarmed thinking I had a fluid leak. Nope, just some sticky shit in the wheel!

Notice the 45mm offset on those 8" wide rims keeps the spindle clean! Motegi MR116



2013-10-31 ~92,1XX, Water Pump Seized, Complete Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass
Click picture to follow link on notes and part numbers...


2013-1-29 ~92,3XX, AW6A-EL gets fluid dump
Dumped 4.5 quarts from the ATX, looking dark again after 17,000 miles - in went Royal Purple MAX - ATF! Meets T-IV & JWS 3309!
Sucked out a qt of PWR Steering Fluid. Threw in remainder of some M-V. Changed the oil and filter!

Sure shifts nice with new fluid! :) :)

2014-01-02, Did something Fun, De-Badge!


PS - front emmblem is PD matte black!
Tools:
PS blades and spudger, emblems are gone. Spudger peels the pad and adhesive right off! Life saving little gem. Works a pry bar too!



2014-03-15, Front Wheel Bearings! All work done by F/I
I haven't gotton around to doing a writeup on the bearing install. I did all the work myself and took a few pictures along the way. Here are a couple.

It helped the noise allot but its still louder than it was 25,000 miles ago. So I may be doing the rear too. Those will be painless compared to this!

Spindles out of the car, old bearings out and in, then spindles back in the car. Used a 20ton press. Each phase was about 1.5 hours. New front wheel bearings! A moment of high pressure bonding! :p:p







So much quieter inside!


Getting the old bearings out was a PITA as the inner race stuck to the hub and I had to slice it and crack it. I fully expected this so it was NBD.


The only other hardship were the bushings which came out of the spindles. They stuck to the ball joints.


This combination here quickly resolves that issue!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
TSB's / FSMs

TSBs
A list of TSBs ** LOOK HERE FOR PROBLEMS YOU MAY HAVE **
http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?4056-Technical-Service-Bulletins

01-012/07, TICKING NOISE FROM PURGE VALVE (( We know this one.... lol)
http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/01-012-07-1787a.pdf

TSB How to Fix V6 Camshaft Tick! lol Use Big @ss Screw Driver!!! A MUST READ FOR ALL ENGINEERS!
http://www.mazdalab.ru/assets/files/Mazda 6 GG/3.0V6 шум от распредвала.pdf << OMG FORD & MAZDA FAILED there!!!! :/

01-010/11 VARIABLE VALVE TIMING (VVT) NOISE WHEN STARTING ENGINE
http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/01-010-11.pdf

01-002/05 Last Issued: 01/13/2005, APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS, All 2003 - 2004 Mazda 6, 2005 Mazda 6 2.3L only, SUBJECT: FALSE MIL ILLUMINATION WITH MULTIPLE U-CODES DTCS, http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/01-002-05-1446.pdf

01-030/06, DELAYED THROTTLE RESPONSE = FLASH ECM to new code!! 2005 Models
http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/01-030-06-1655.pdf
Some vehicles may experience the following symptoms:
- Drop in engine rpm or engine stalling when quickly releasing the accelerator pedal during light acceleration or constant speed driving.
- Delayed throttle response when quickly depressing the accelerator pedal during a very slow speed after engine warm-up.
Revised PCM and TCM calibrations are available to address this concern. Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.​

01-023-10, EVAP LEAK LOCATION P0441, P0442, P0455, P0456 - all MODELS!!
http://www.mazdalab.ru/assets/files/Mazda 6 GG/MPS/Определение утечки в системе вентиляции топливной магистрали DTCs P0441 P0442 P0455 P0456.pdf

01-033-07 PRE-MIXED LONG-LIFE "FL22" ENGINE COOLANT
http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/01-033-07-1830b.pdf

01-040/07 FRONT CRANKSHAFT BOLT SERVICE WARNING (2.X only)
http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/01-040-07-1855.pdf

01-053/10, RATTLE NOISE FROM ENGINE DUE TO STRETCHED TIMING CHAIN
http://www.mazdalab.ru/assets/files/Mazda 6 GG/MPS/шум системы VVT по причине растяжения цепи ГРМ.pdf (2.3 I4)

04-004/06, SQUEAK/MOAN NOISE FROM FRONT BRAKES (03-05)
http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/04-004-06-1598.pdf

01-044/06, MIL DTC P0106, MAP sensor failure (2.3)
http://www.mazdalab.ru/assets/files/Mazda 6 GG/ошибка P0106.pdf


09-012/04 LACK OF HEAT FROM SEAT CUSHION OR SEAT WARMERS TURN OFF EARLY (2003 models)
http://www.6crew.com/files/tsb/09-012-04-1276.pdf


FSM/Training:
http://foor.ee/m6/Mazda6/English/3359-1E-02C.pdf << How it Works! 6i not 6s, good stuff in the Training Manual!

http://6crew.com/files/tsb/01-016-06-2135.pdf << TSB for 3.0 TB A or B DTC P2135
http://6crew.com/files/tsb/01-011-05-1417.pdf P0300 - P0304 L3 2.3 and ??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When Bad things happen; Open the Oil Filter!

As this title depicts, sometimes there is value in cutting open ones oil filter. Nope, not a Mazda part but a very well constructed WIX filter from 2008 Yamaha FZ6.
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You need a drill 3/16" dia, drill two holes about a 1/2" apart right next to the end of the filter. With a pair of Tin Snips, cut between the two holes and continue around the filter until the element comes out. With the element out, you can inspect it. Any metal chunks made will not likely LOOK LIKE shrapnel from inside the engine so don't worry about that. >> The main reason I use tin snips versus a cut off wheel.

What i didn't expect: Breaking into Fort Knox of oil filters! Holly [email protected], WIX filters ARE WELL CONSTRUCTED!!!! They are Very heavy and now I see why! Lots of steel reinforcement and potting. Take your time and make cuts and roll the tin like a tuna can to open and expose the element. Pull it out and see what you find.

- 3/16" or bigger drill bit
- Tin Snips
- Pliers
- maybe a screw driver if WIX made filter
- Gloves, cause one slip and you'll be cut open

Goal: Open the filter and inspect the pleats for foreign material.
The oil pickup screen will stop the big chunks but little bits can be found here. In this case, nothing was found! :)

Here it is opened up:


A spring is the first thing, it holds the filter in place:


FORT KNOX of filter elements:


Filter Media is Clean!!:



By-pass valve and spring. Notice potting material boding the element to the housing:


Construction Details:
- the inlet of the filter has the anti-drain back valve (rubber flap) so the pump doesn't have to refill the filter upon each engine start.
-the first spring out after chopping the end off is to keep the filter media in place at the housing inlet.
- the little spring and disk inside the filter media is the by pass spring should the filter plug oil is unfiltered but circulating through this valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Mazda 6 Front Wheel Alignement Tip:

Too many fail to properly diagnose this for what it is.
1) set air pressure front and rear. Confirm all tires are matched size and type per axle. i.e. both fronts are the same and both rears are the same.
2) swap front tires left to right. Does it change it on the same road? No - not tires. This is for test drive only even with directional tires. You need to put them back when done testing!!!!
3) elevate nose. Start engine. Using pinky finger SLOWLY steer car full left and full right. Does the hydraulic system favor either direction? The applied pressure should feel the same steering both directions. If yes, you have a leaking rack and it needs replaced.
4) Alignment meets specs but it pulls. On a crowned road it will fall towards the low side. Fact of life. On a FLAT road it should go straight. Typically even a worn out used up car with tired suspension parts will go straight if aligned properly. Worn shocks/struts DO NOT make a car pull - they control roll and damping. CAMBER, CASTER, SET-BACK, and SAI dictate how/if a car drives straight.

The 6 has fixed mount up top and fixed mount on the bottom. These set caster and camber. If they are substantially off, its good posibility there are bent parts or the sub frame is not properly located under the body. It can be moved its a bolt on item. If the trans or engine has been out - a high probability the person concerned about the egine/trans working right was NOT CONCERNED about your wheel alignment. Read this if that caught your attention:

Those are some things to consider and most are not the cars fault. They fit under operator error!



IF YOUR CASTER AND/OR CAMBER ARE MISMATCHED by MORE THAN 0.5 DEGREES, READ THIS!

FWIW: balancing both Camber and Caster on these is NOT as bad as it seems if you do some under car measurements and Correlate this to the "Measured Values of Camber & Caster.

The SUB-Frame
The body has symmetrical alignment holes throughout and these are used in the repair industry to align the cars joined sections. There are designated holes which are accurate within a 1.0 mm (0.04"). Granted the exhaust and other obstacle are often times in the way for tape measure there are ways around this. The goal is to measure from the body to the SUB-Frame using symmetrical holes and distances underneath the car. You'll need an "X" measurement to establish if the sub-frame is square to the body. Measure the points and write them down. Measure from those same points to the lower ball joint. Write it down.

I'm not going to go into a bunch of detail but mismatched caster and mismatched camber values can be balanced by sliding (left to right for camber) and rotating the sub-frame to correct mismatched caster. Because the lower ball joints position is a fixed point for the alignment measurements, its position is critical. Also a very small shift of the S/F around the main anchor bolts can move the BJ enough to correct alignment issues.

What is important to note is if the sub-frame is Square to the BODY but a wheel is set back as indicated by caster or tape measured distance from equal body holes, this can indicate bent suspension parts. Bent parts need replaced vs adjusted.

Bottom line: the underbody measurements can be used to establish cause and correction when the alignment falls outside of the ever loose specs established by the manufacture.

If someone has the Full body manual and not just the supplement, it very likely contains all of the under car measurements.
2004 Mazda6 5-Door Sport Wagon Body Shop Manual Supplement PN: 9999–95–099F–04 << This shows door, window, pillar, roof measurements down to the mm. Hint: mazdaserviceinfo 9999–95–099F–04

Also something to keep in mind is IF you have engine or transmission work done, sometimes those folks will drop the S/F to do their job and NOT PAY a lick of attention as to its actual location. Remember; a few mm here can really trash your alignment. I'd suggest every true enthusiast get under there car with a tape and measure it before major repairs are done on your car!

Some undercar pictures of Final Impacts 6s: http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/258755-final-impact-bottom-up-pictures-under-06-v6-6spd-atx.html
Sample:
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Brake Bleeding; Pressure vs Vacuum

MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENT: If not Replacing MC - SKIP TO BLEEDING!
For a Master Cylinder (MC) to work (includes clutch MC), the port from the reservoir to the piston needs to be open. That is, the MC piston should not be depressed UNTIL the pedal is pushed. This is often over looked and leads to loss of brakes, difficulty bleeding brakes, and brakes that stick ON and WILL NOT RELEASE! A simple piece of playdoo the size of an eraser head can solve the question. IS THERE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE PUSH ROD AND THE MASTER CYLINDER PISTON??? If the ROD IS TOO LONG, IT WILL DEPRESS THE PISTON. MOST OFTEN CAUSED BY REMANUFACTURED PARTS!!! Rare with OEM Parts!

If that rod from the booster is too short, you end up with lost pedal travel. This is OK as long as its not excessive. If the rod is too long, it presses the piston, building brake pressure AND seals off the port
from the reservoir (although sometimes its only partially sealed). This can have two effects; 1) holds the brakes on, 2) limits the volume of fluid the MC has available to push the pistons. In some cases as the brakes heat, the fluid expands and the car becomes immobilized OR it burns the brakes.

Worst case is you loose brakes entirely as the system has no fluid to operate yet the MC is FULL! The point: you just need to know that the ROD has some play and IS NOT DEPRESSING THE MC PISTON when bolted down!!!

You can be creative and place some childs "play-do" in the cup where the rod goes.
- Bolt down the MC.
- Do not press the brake pedal.
- Unbolt the MC.
- Examine the thickness of the play-do. If a 1/32 to 1/64" layer remains unsmashed, You have clearance! This is GOOD! EDIT: Book says bolt down tool 49 G043 001 to Booster and measure the depth and it should equal 25.9 - 26.1 mm // 1.020 - 1.027" < So measure the depth and ASSUME all MC's have the correct depth on the piston. But no one has this tool! Hmm...
- If its smashed completely in the middle, you have no clearance and need to shorten the rod. Too much clearance and you need to lengthen the rod.
- Although most all boosters return to rest in the same location, it is recommended that this adjustment be made with vacuum applied to the booster to insure the diaphragm and push rod are fully retracted.

FLUID SPEC: SAE J1703, FMVSS 116 DOT3

** Don't forget to bench bleed the MC by routing the outlet ports into the reservoir, filling, and slooooooowly depressing it so as to fill the bore with fluid, thus displacing the air. **

MANUAL BLEEDING // GETTING ALL THE AIR OUT

Most important, do it every 2 years to remove moisture and sediment which wears down the brake system components. This will extend the life of these items. Although it looks like a Closed System it is vented to the atmosphere and the fluid attracts and holds moisture. So as your pads wear, the moisture in the reservoir is pulled into the master cylinder. Once inside the moisture cause the brake lines to rust and oxidation of the cast steel and aluminum parts. This process make tiny molecules which IS NOT induciseve to a firm brake pedal! Also, if yours 6 is an MTX, bleed the clutch slave cylinder too!

Solution = 50 to 100 cc syringe
Some cars its easy to suck the fluid out with Turkey baster. Our 6 is not that car. Grab a 50 to 100 cc syringe and some silicone tubing. Push the hose into reservoirs bottom and extract all the old fluid. This does good things:
- reduces time to flush old fluid out
- reduces mixed fluid content / i.e. dot 3 / dot 4 / synthetics etc.
- pulls the sediment out vs pumping it through the system
- saves time getting fresh fluid to the calipers
- makes it more obvious when fresh fluid arrives at the caliper as its not mixed and diluted with old fluid.

Pressure bleed:
Pressure bleed vs vacuum bleed as vacuum pulls the air molecules apart making more of them VERSES pressure forces them together making less of them. IMO you'll get firmer pedals by pressure bleeding than vacuum bleeding using Mity-vacs and all that stuff.

That's not say they are bad; when alone and no helper they are a great resource. Just finish off with pressure bleeding where possible using a 2 man/woman operation!

Tap the caliper:
While pressure bleeding (not vacuum bleeding) another trick to add to your arsenal for a firm pedal is tapping the bottom of the caliper while the system is under pressure with block of wood or plastic faced hammer. This dislodges air trapped so it can make its way to the bleeder. Works best while under pressure.

Rubber mallets don't work, steel hammers can leave marks so hard nylon or a wood block work great. Also - don't strike the back of caliper inwards in the direction of piston travel, always strike/tap in a perpendicular fashion. Often times you'll see air come out from a few small taps. More so from parts replacement, than a maintenance bleed job - i.e. new hoses, new calipers, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Mazda6s V6 (AJ) MIL/CEL Codes

Mazda6s V6 (AJ) MIL Codes

***************************************************
DTC No. Condition MIL DC Monitor item Memory function Page
P0011 CMP timing over-advanced (RH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0011 [AJ]
P0012 CMP timing over-retarded (RH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0012 [AJ]
P0021 CMP timing over-advanced (LH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0021 [AJ]
P0022 CMP timing over-retarded (LH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0022 [AJ]

P0031 HO2S heater (RF) circuit low ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0031 [AJ]
P0032 HO2S heater (RF) circuit high ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0032 [AJ]
P0037 HO2S heater (RR) circuit low ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0037 [AJ]
P0038 HO2S heater (RR) circuit high ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0038 [AJ]

P0051 HO2S heater (LF) circuit low ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0051 [AJ]
P0052 HO2S heater (LF) circuit high ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0052 [AJ]
P0057 HO2S heater (LR) circuit low ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0057 [AJ]
P0058 HO2S heater (LR) circuit high ON 2 O2 sensor heater (See DTC P0058 [AJ]

P0101 MAF sensor inconsistent with TP sensor ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0101 [AJ]
P0102 MAF circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0102 [AJ]
P0103 MAF circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0103 [AJ]
P0111 IAT circuit performance problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0111 [AJ]

P0112 IAT circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0112 [AJ]
P0113 IAT circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0113 [AJ]
P0117 ECT circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0117 [AJ]
P0118 ECT circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0118 [AJ]

P0122 TP sensor No.1 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0122 [AJ]
P0123 TP sensor No.1 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0123 [AJ]
P0125 Excessive time to enter closed loop fuel control ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0125 [AJ]
P0126 Coolant thermostat ON 2 Thermostat (See DTC P0126, P0128 [AJ]

P0128 Coolant thermostat ON 2 Thermostat (See DTC P0126, P0128 [AJ]
P0131 HO2S (RF) no inversion (low stuck) ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0131, P0132, P0151, P0152)
P0132 HO2S (RF) no inversion (high stuck) ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0131, P0132, P0151, P0152)
P0133 HO2S (RF) circuit malfunction ON 2 O2 sensor (See DTC P0133, P0153 [AJ]

P0134 HO2S (RF) circuit no activity detected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0134, P0154 [AJ]
P0138 HO2S (RR) circuit high input ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0138, P0158 [AJ]
P0140 HO2S (RR) circuit no activity detected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0140, P0160 [AJ]
P0151 HO2S (LF) no inversion (low stuck) ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0131, P0132, P0151, P0152)

P0152 HO2S (LF) no inversion (high stuck) ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0131, P0132, P0151, P0152 [AJ]
P0153 HO2S (LF) circuit malfunction ON 2 O2 sensor (See DTC P0133, P0153 [AJ]
P0154 HO2S (LF) circuit no activity detected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0134, P0154 [AJ]
P0158 HO2S (LR) circuit high input ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0138, P0158 [AJ]

P0160 HO2S (LR) circuit no activity detected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0140, P0160 [AJ]
P0171 Fuel trim system (RH) too lean ON 2 Fuel (See DTC P0171, P0174 [AJ]
P0172 Fuel trim system (RH) too rich ON 2 Fuel (See DTC P0172, P0175 [AJ]
P0174 Fuel trim system (LH) too lean ON 2 Fuel (See DTC P0171, P0174 [AJ]

P0175 Fuel trim system (LH) too rich ON 2 Fuel (See DTC P0172, P0175 [AJ]
P0222 TP sensor No.2 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0222 [AJ]
P0223 TP sensor No.2 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0223 [AJ]
P0300 Random misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire (See DTC P0300 [AJ]
P0301 Cylinder No.1 misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire

P0302 Cylinder No.4 misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire
P0303 Cylinder No.2 misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire
P0304 Cylinder No.5 misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire
P0305 Cylinder No.3 misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire
P0306 Cylinder No.6 misfire detected Flash / ON 1 or 2 Misfire

P0325 KS circuit ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0325 [AJ]
P0335 CKP sensor circuit malfunction ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0335 [AJ]
P0340 CMP sensor (RH) circuit malfunction ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0340 [AJ]
P0345 CMP sensor (LH) circuit malfunction ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0345 [AJ]

P0401 EGR flow insufficient detected ON 2 EGR (See DTC P0401 [AJ]
P0402 EGR flow excessive detected ON 2 EGR (See DTC P0402 [AJ]
P0403 EGR valve (stepper motor) circuit malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0403 [AJ]
P0421 Warm-up catalyst system (RH) efficiency below threshold ON 2 Catalyst (DTC P0421, P0431)

P0431 Warm-up catalyst system (LH) efficiency below threshold ON 2 Catalyst (DTC P0421, P0431)
P0441 EVAP control system incorrect purge flow ON 2 Evaporative (See DTC P0441 [AJ]
P0442 EVAP control system leak detected (small leak) ON 2 Evaporative (See DTC P0442 [AJ]
P0443 EVAP control system purge control valve circuit malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0443 [AJ]

P0446 Change over valve (EVAP leak detection pump) stuck close ON 2 Evaporative ´(DTC P0446)
P0455 EVAP control system leak detected (large leak) ON 2 Evaporative (See DTC P0455 [AJ]
P0456 EVAP control system leak detected (very small leak) ON 2 Evaporative (See DTC P0456 [AJ]
P0461 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit range/performance ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0461 [AJ]

P0462 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit low input ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0462 [AJ]
P0463 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit high input ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0463 [AJ]
P0480 Fan control circuit malfunction OFF 2 Other (See DTC P0480 [AJ]
P0500 VSS circuit malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0500 [AJ]

P0505 Idle control system malfunction OFF - - - (See DTC P0505 [AJ]
P0506 Idle control system RPM lower than expected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0506 [AJ]
P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0507 [AJ]
P0550 PSP switch circuit malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0550 [AJ]

P0564 Cruise control switch circuit malfunction OFF 1 Other (See DTC P0564 [AJ]
P0571 Brake switch circuit malfunction OFF 1 Other (See DTC P0571 [AJ]
P0602 PCM programming error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0602 [AJ]
P0606 ECM/PCM processor OFF 1 Other (See DTC P0606 [AJ]

P0610 Control module vehicle options error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0610 [AJ]
P0703 Brake switch No.1 input malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0703 [AJ]
P0704 Clutch switch input malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0704 [AJ]
P0850 Neutral switch input malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0850 [AJ]

P1309 PCM IC for misfire detection ON 2 CCM (See DTC P1309 [AJ]
P1410 VAD control system circuit malfunction OFF 2 Other (See DTC P1410 [AJ]
P1487 EGR boost sensor solenoid valve circuit malfunction ON 2 CCM (See DTC P1487 [AJ]
P1562 PCM +BB voltage low ON 1 CCM (See DTC P1562 [AJ]

P2088 CMP actuator (RH) circuit low ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2088 [AJ]
P2089 CMP actuator (RH) circuit high ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2089 [AJ]
P2092 CMP actuator (LH) circuit low ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2092 [AJ]
P2093 CMP actuator (LH) circuit high ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2093 [AJ]

P2100 Throttle actuator control motor circuit/open ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2100 [AJ]
P2101 Throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performance ON 1 CCM (DTC P2101 [AJ]
P2105 Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown OFF 1 Other (DTC P2105 [AJ]
P2107 Throttle actuator control module processor ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2107 [AJ]
P2108 Throttle actuator control module performance ON 1 or 2 CCM (MIGHT ONLY BE 6i, 2.3)

P2110 Throttle actuator control system - forced limited RPM ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2110 [AJ]
P2111 Throttle actuator control system - stuck open ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2111, P2112 [AJ]
P2112 Throttle actuator control system - stuck close ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2111, P2112 [AJ]
P2119 Throttle actuator control throttle body range/performance ON 2 CCM (DTC P2119 [AJ]

P2122 APP sensor No.1 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2122 [AJ]
P2123 APP sensor No.1 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2123 [AJ]
P2127 APP sensor No.2 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2127 [AJ]
P2128 APP sensor No.2 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2128 [AJ]

P2135 TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2135 [AJ]
P2138 APP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2138 [AJ]
P2177 System too lean off idle bank 1 ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2179 [AJ]
P2179 System too lean off idle bank 2 ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2177 [AJ]
P2227 EGR boost sensor circuit performance problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2227 [AJ]
P2228 EGR boost sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2228 [AJ]

P2229 EGR boost sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2229 [AJ]
P2401 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit low ON 2 Evaporative (DTC P2401)
P2402 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit high ON 2 Evaporative (DTC P2402)
P2404 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit malfunction ON 2 Evaporative (DTC P2404)

P2405 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit low input ON 2 Evaporative (DTC P2405)
P2406 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit high input ON 2 Evaporative (DTC P2406)
P2407 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit intermittent ON 2 Evaporative (DTC P2407)
P2502 Generator terminal B circuit open OFF 1 Other (See DTC P2502 [AJ]

P2503 Generator output voltage signal no electricity OFF 1 Other (See DTC P2503 [AJ]
P2504 Battery overcharge OFF 1 Other (See DTC P2504 [AJ]
U0073 CAN BUS OFF (From 3399-1U-04H Supplement, Service Highlights)
U0073 CAN system communication error (See MULTIPLEX COMMUNICATION SYSTEM

U0100 TCM cannot receive any signals from PCM
U0121 Communication error to ABS/TCS HU/CM (See MULTIPLEX COMMUNICATION SYSTEM
U0121 TCM cannot receive any signals from ABS HU/CM
U0140 TCM cannot receive any signals from instrument cluster
U0415 Invalid data received from ABS HU/CM (wheel speed)

***************************************************

>> This site pulls up MIL codes for all manufactures: kinda Handy!
Powertrain Trouble Code Search - Airtex Vehicle Electronics

***************************************************

P0125 Excessive time to enter closed loop fuel control
• The PCM monitors the ECT sensor signal at PCM terminal 41 after the engine is cold started. If the ECT voltage does not reach the expected temperature in a certain period, the PCM determines that it has taken an excessive amount of time for the engine coolant temperature to reach the temperature necessary to start the closed-loop fuel control.

P0126 Coolant thermostat
• If the ECT signal never exceeds 71 °C {160 °F} after the engine runs for a certain period, the PCM determines that the coolant thermostat is stuck open.
MONITORING CONDITIONS
— IAT: –10 °C {14 °F} or above
— Vehicle speed: 6.0 km/h {3.7 mph} or above (MTX)
— Vehicle speed: 9.4 km/h {5.8 mph} or above (ATX)​

P0128 Coolant thermostat
• The PCM monitors MAF, IAT, VSS and ECT signals and calculates the radiator heat radiation ratio when the
following monitoring conditions are met. If the calculated value exceeds the threshold, the PCM determines that
the coolant thermostat is stuck open.
MONITORING CONDITIONS
— ECT at engine start: 36 °C {97 °F} or below
— IAT: –10 °C {14 °F} or above
— Difference between ECT at engine start and minimum IAT: 6 °C {43 °F} or below
— Vehicle speed: 30 km/h {18.6 mph} or above (MTX)
— Vehicle speed: 20 km/h {12.4 mph} or above (ATX)​

P0132 HO2S (RF) circuit high input/P0152 HO2S (LF) circuit high input
• PCM monitors the input voltage the from HO2S (RF, LF). If the PCM detected HO2S (RF, LF) voltage above 1.2 V for 0.8 s, the PCM determines that the circuit input is high.

P0133 HO2S (RF) circuit malfunction/P0153 HO2S (LF) circuit malfunction
• The PCM monitors the inversion cycle period, lean-to-rich response time and rich-to-lean response time of the sensor. The PCM calculated the average of the invention cycle period specified invention cycles, average response time from lean-to-rich, and from rich-to-lean when the following monitoring conditions are met. If the following condition, the PCM determines that the circuit has a malfunction.
— The average valve of invention cycle period or lean-to-rich/rich-to-lean response time is more than the threshold value.
— The HO2S (RF, LF) voltage does not rise above 0.55 V for 12 s or more after the HO2S (RF, LF) voltage has risen above 0.35 V.
— The HO2S (RF, LF) voltage does not go below 0.35 V for 12 s or more after the HO2S (RF, LF) voltage has gone below 0.55 V.
— The HO2S (RF, LF) voltage has not deviated from between 0.35—0.55 V for 12 s or more.
MONITORING CONDITIONS
— Drive mode 3
— The following conditions are to be met:
• Calculation load 18—58%, (at engine speed 2,000 rpm)
• Engine speed 1,400—2,500 rpm (MTX)
• Engine speed 1,200—2,500 rpm (ATX)
• Engine coolant temperature is –10 °C {14 °F} or above
• Front HO2S signal invention cycle is above 10 cycle​

P0134 HO2S (RF) circuit no activity detected/P0154 HO2S (LF) circuit no activity detected
• The PCM monitors the input voltage from the HO2S (RF, LF) when the following monitoring conditions are met. If the input voltage never exceeds 0.55 V for 9.6 s after short trim is shifted rich to 25%, the PCM determines that the sensor circuit is not activated.
MONITORING CONDITIONS
— Drive mode 3
— The following conditions are to be met:
• The time from engine start is above 102 s. (ECT at engine start 20 °C {68 °F})​

EDIT: 2014-03-25

Firing order AJ, plus sensor location
1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6

Cabin = Bank1 = B1S1 and downstream is B1S2 = RF
1 -2 -3
<<-- Front of engine
4 - 5 - 6
Bumper = Bank2 = B2S1 and downstream is B2S2 = LF
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Misfire; How waiting for a CEL is WAITING TOO LONG!!!

TOO MANY ARE IGNORING THE WARNING SIGNS!!! Don't wait for a msg from God! It will be too late!!

Is your car, Shaking, vibrating, chugging, sluggish, and has a LOSS OF POWER. If it seems wrong, it probably is!! Don't IGNORE IT!!

Random misfire detected (P0300)
• The PCM monitors the CKP sensor input signal interval time. The PCM calculates the change of the interval time for each cylinder. If the change of interval time exceeds the preprogrammed criteria, the PCM detects a misfire in the corresponding cylinder. While the engine is running, the PCM counts the number of misfires that occurred at 200 crankshaft revolutions and 1,000 crankshaft revolutions and calculates the misfire ratio for each crankshaft revolution. If the ratio exceeds the preprogrammed criteria, the PCM determines that a misfire, which can damage the catalytic converter or affect emission performance, has occurred.
Specific cylinder misfire detected (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306)

BOTTOM LINE: don't WAIT until the MIL light is flashing! Its too LATE. Hint: a CEL for P030X is not 100 percent. You likely have other bad coil packs!!! Just because it didn't trigger a cell doesn't mean its not misfiring under load!

The TEST:
Turn off every accessory, every light, every load, AC etc. Drive it. How does it run, does it hesitate, misfire, is it better? << Drive in daylight with lights off.
Turn on EVERY LOAD, AC, Seat heater, Defrost, turn them all ON! Does it make it misfire and hesitate off idle, and taking off? Did it MAKE IT WORSE??? If so, you likely have another bad COP.

Unlike other manufactures who look at each coils ring back signature to determine if the spark was delivered to the plug, Ford and Mazda rely on crankshaft velocity. So the ECM is basically watching the Crank sensor to see if the CrankShaft meets its expectation for rotational speed for the situation. If it does, there is NO MISFIRE TO REPORT. If it detects a misfire and reports a P030X, its because the ECM counted 200 continuous misfires from the SAME Cylinder. The car is pretty much running like shit at this point and can't be neglected. Should it get a dozen clean rotations, it WOULD NOT have reported it as a MISFIRE. So these problems can exist and do DAMAGE for a long TIME depending on the situation. << Make sense?

Point: do some testing. If your car stumbles, Hesitates, bucks, stutters, cuts out, or simply won't move like it used too, its good chance you should be looking at or looking for MORE BAD COPs as waiting for the ECM to report them and it will be TOO LATE!

*************************************************
A happy ending - if this is incentive that is.... @V6NiKO

ORIGINAL POSTER IS BACK WITH ANSWERS!
FROM: http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/262219-new-ignition-coil-helped-but.html#post3535995

Ok, so I bought the extra 5 coils (beck/arnley) and after installing them today, I got an impressive increase in acceleration - also it stopped the hesitation in 1st and 2nd gear.

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED OFF AFTER I CHANGED THE COIL IN CYLINDER #2 !
So even though one or more of the other coils were faulty, there were no more codes to speak of.

The back three coils were really dirty and burnt looking compared to the front three (not sure that matters). All spark plugs were clean and in good condition.

Thank you guys so much for your help! I would have tried many things to no avail if it weren't for everyone's combined experience on the matter.

Happy Motoring!
*************************************************

PS - In another thread a member had the spark plug come completely unscrewed but the coil was still attached!! Guess WHAT, NO CEL for P030X but it RAN LIKE SHIT!!!!
*************************************************
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
RANDOM EXCERPTS FROM AJ FSM, Sensors that get measured....

From 9999-95-063B-04 2004 Mazda6 sport sedan workshop manual

=============================
Page 921 /Section: 01-40B-28

ECT Sensor Resistance AJ 6 Cyl:

@68F 2.20k - 2.60k ohms
@176F 0.29k - 0.40k ohms

Voltage: Pg 900, 01-40B-8 Table of all inputs GOOD INFO**
@68F 2.9 - 3.1V -> PCM Terminal 39
@176 0.2 - 1.0V

=============================

IAT Intake Air Temp Sensor Pg 902, Nxt section 01-40B-30
@68F 2.4 - 2.6V -> PCM Terminal 39
@86F 1.7 - 1.9V

MAF:
IDLE 3.6 - 3.8 g/s
2500RPM 10.5 - 11.2 g/s MTX

IDLE 3.8 - 4.0 g/s
2500RPM 10.6 - 11.4 g/s ATX

Voltage: PCM Terminal 88
Idle 1.3V
2500 RPM 1.9 V

=============================

BARO:
101 kPA, 1.01 BAR, 14.6 PSI
PCM Terminal 34 -> 4.1V at Sea level.

==============================

Fuel Injector Duration at idle:
1.5 - 3.0ms PCM Terminal -> 73, 99, 100

==============================

CMP Camshaft Position Sensor:
Pg 928, Also - 01-40B-6, 01-40B-36
Spec: 467 - 571 Ohms
PCM 85A 86B RHS
PCM 58A 59B LHS

==============================

CKP Camshaft Position Sensor:
Pg 928, Also - 01-40B-6, 01-40B-36
Spec: 267 - 325 Ohms
PCM 21A & 22B

==============================

IDLE Speed: 700 - 800 RPM
Vacuum at idle: More than 18inHg/450mmHg

When RPM is at 4000 RPM and sharply dropped, injector signal is cut until RPM is below 1200 RPM.

AJ Cylinder Compression:
Standard @285 RPM = 199 PSI
Minumun @285 RPM = 139 PSI
Max Variation: 28.5 PSI
???? - This needs to be confirmed!
==============================

Firing Order:
1-4-2-5-3-6

RH bank1 = 1, 2, 3 Cowl side
LH bank2 = 4, 5, 6 Bumper
==============================

OIL PRESSURE:
20 - 45 PSI @1500 RPM

==============================
Thermostat:
Initial open: 184 - 190F
Full open: 210
Full Open Lift: 0.29"

Radiator Cap Pressure:
13.6 - 17.7 PSI
==============================
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL DESCRIPTION [L3/i4] PG 163 of 3372-1U-02I When/If I find the AJ and it reads different, I'll update this.

Target throttle valve opening angle calculation
• The PCM calculates the target throttle valve opening angle based on signals from accelerator pedal position (APP) sensors No.1 and No.2.
• In order to change the actual throttle valve opening angle to the calculated target opening angle, the PCM controls the direction and size of the current sent to the throttle actuator.
• Throttle position (TP) sensors No.1 and No.2 detect the actual throttle valve opening angle.

Throttle valve opening angle learning
• After the ignition switch is turned off, the PCM opens and closes the throttle valve. At this time, the input voltage
of the TP sensor at the fully closed (idling) position and the fully open position is stored.
• This learned voltage measurement at the fully closed and open position is used when correcting the throttle
opening angle. (See 01–40A–17 IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) OUTLINE [L3].)

Fail-safe
• If the PCM detects any of the following malfunctions, it limits the throttle valve opening angle, performs fuel cut and other control measures to limit engine output, as well as stopping the flow of electricity to the throttle
actuator. When this flow of electricity is stopped, the throttle valve is limited to the minimum opening angle possible for driving:
— TP sensor No.1 malfunction
— TP sensor No.2 malfunction
— APP sensor No.1 malfunction
— APP sensor No.2 malfunction
— Throttle actuator malfunction
— PCM internal circuit (for electronic throttle control) malfunction
— Throttle body (throttle valve and return spring) malfunction

IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) DESCRIPTION [L3]


Target throttle valve opening angle determination:
• The PCM calculates the intake airflow amount required to provide idling stability (IAC target airflow amount), and according to that, determines the target throttle valve opening angle.
• When the engine is cranking, the PCM sets the IAC target airflow amount according to the engine coolant temperature, and opens the throttle valve to that set value.

IAC target airflow amount
• The IAC target airflow amount is calculated by the PCM by subtracting the estimated value for the intake airflow amount which does not pass through the throttle valve from the calculated intake airflow amount required for
idling stability (required volume weight).
Required volumetric airflow amount
— The required volumetric airflow amount is calculated from the target charging efficiency as corrected by the changes in intake airflow amount (due to the difference in vacuum pressure in the areas before and after
the throttle valve) and in intake airflow density (which changes according to intake airflow temperature change).
Target charging efficiency
— The target charging efficiency is the charging efficiency* required to match engine operating conditions.
— The target charging efficiency is calculated by adding all necessary corrections matching engine operating conditions to the basic charging efficiency as determined according to engine coolant temperature.
* : Charging efficiency is the ratio of the actual intake airflow amount over the maximum amount of airflow (mass) which can fill a cylinder. This figure grows larger in proportion to the increase in engine load.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android

Picked up a bluetooth CAN scanner/OBDII for the Android thought I would share this from the 6s using Droid app - Torque Pro.

Supported Sensors:


O2 Senor1 bank 1 & 2.
Not a high enough frame rate to call out a good or bad sensor. Although there may be some tweaks to the software but I didn't find that path as of yet. Refresh rate was 0.25 seconds. If I could turn off the unwanted sensors, it might be able to handle it. Location info was turned off.

From Auto-Tap Software with a little better frame rate.


LASTLY - PID log file with these errors. Honestly I'm not sure these are valid or not. But just because the ECM has no DTCs or MIL codes, doesn't mean its all OK. See text file for complete list but here are the suspect items.

Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================

Excerpt - fail only.

Vehicle VIN: 1YVHP.....
Vehicle Manufacturer: Mazda
Vehicle Calibration ID: AJF

Test report:
------------------

MID:$b0 TID:$99
-
Max: -74.38335% Min: 75.20128%
Test result value: -79.93798%
FAIL
------------------
MID:$b1 TID:$1a
-
Max: 2mV/s Min: 41,122mV/s
Test result value: 13,664mV/s
FAIL
------------------
MID:$f0 TID:$cc
Manufacturer defined MID -
Max: 0 Min: 24,657
Test result value: 52,464
FAIL
------------------
Again, not sure what these mean or if they are even valid. Not jumping to conclusions at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was really hoping to see this list the intake CAM advance but no luck there. Apparently only the L3TC gives up that info. It would have been interesting to see a graph of when and where it advances the CAM. I guess I'll have to get creative if I want that!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After a Freeway run all but one error went away on the PID log.
----
MID:$05 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 2,300ms Min: 59,433ms
Test result value: 15ms
FAIL
----
THE OTHER:
----
MID:$01 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 435ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 20ms
PASS
----
OK - WTF gives??? Min/Max is all over the map.

Also i was able to grab some sensor data. I still have some tweaking to do but the little app did successfully log the items I picked. The downside is the fuel trims are not balanced which makes me wonder if that error is playing a role or do i have vacuum leak?
The variance is 1.5 to 3.4% most of the time with the LT trims being closer to 3% and the ST trims being roughly 2.5% but when combined they're off by less than 1%. Never seen it do that before!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
A new day on the freeway - All things are GREEN!

No Errors in the PID file - so take that with a grain of salt. The two are both in the same ballpark as of this post.

----
MID:$01 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 435ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 15ms
PASS
----

----
MID:$05 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 435ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 25ms
PASS
----
 

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Possibly one of the single most useful threads on this forum. I found answers here for several of the things I've been trying to diagnose for ages, as well as the information I needed to go about it.
 

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Great list. I wish I was better at doing this stuff myself, but alas, I must trust my local mechanic (usually does a good job).

A question about the coils. I've already replaced plenty, but damage was already doing to the Cat's and had to get those replaced. Now, on ocassion I get something close to a 'stall' when I stop at a stop sign or red light. Is that a coil starting to go? And if no light is triggered, how do I knowh which one or ones to replace? It gets expensive to replace all 6.

Is there an easy way to check each coil's performance? Maybe I missed that.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Great list. I wish I was better at doing this stuff myself, but alas, I must trust my local mechanic (usually does a good job).

A question about the coils. I've already replaced plenty, but damage was already doing to the Cat's and had to get those replaced. Now, on ocassion I get something close to a 'stall' when I stop at a stop sign or red light. Is that a coil starting to go? And if no light is triggered, how do I knowh which one or ones to replace? It gets expensive to replace all 6.

Is there an easy way to check each coil's performance? Maybe I missed that.

Thanks.
The videos up at the top would be a good start. I wish a I knew how much air gap we could impose to equal the conditions of the plug encounters. I suspect with a manufactures gap of 0.055"+ the coils should be able to deliver enough energy to jump a 0.070" gap with a nice purple white spark. If it can't and it jumps somewhere else, its likely to cause misfires under load.

Just flat out dying like you're talking about does not sound typical of a coil break down issue. Quality of fuel comes to mind, as does the MAF and small air leaks would be the path I'd follow.

Start a thread throw in the @Final Impact. I'll chime in.. .. ..
 
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