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2014 Mazda 6 GT - 6AT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been messing around with the idea of running an external transmission cooler and Magnefine inline filter since I ran my first performance driving event in the car and didn't love the temps getting up to the 220F range (I pulled off out of an abundance of caution before letting them move higher). I drew up an adapter and had it cut. It's been on the car with a loop of line and Magnefine filter for a few drives now. The trans is not super quick to heat up, but finds its way to 160-170F on about a 15-20 mile drive on a mid 70s day. Just driving around with no cooler at all, I have found the temps to hold fairly steady in that range.

I am curious if anyone else is running a custom adapter and if so what heat exchanger you are using along with your findings on the new temperature normal for your car?

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2014 Mazda 6 GT - 6AT
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
See post no. 27... Desert driving
Thanks for the link! I had seen your post there about the concept before. I assume based on your user name that you don't have an auto. Have you ever run a plate like this on one of these transmissions? Any results you can share?
 

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Have not, cuz as u imply, I have a 6mt. It was a thought experiment... But I do consider the wintertime gelling possibility an issue, depending on the ambient temp. Accordingly, I'd configure it to be able to block, bypass, and vent the aux cooler for cold weather, ensuring dust doesn't enter the vent. Also, in my view, bypass microfiltration has a lot of merit.
 

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I should clarify Post No. 27, in the above reference. I indicate that that plate ought to be, say, 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" thick... because for the passage from the case to the OEM cooler... i.e. the hot fluid to the OEM cooler, the hole in the plate would be a through-hole. But for the colder ATF back from the OEM cooler, the hole would be a blind hole... and the plate would be drilled on-edge to intersect that blind hole... and a compression pipe fitting would be threaded-in to that on-edge drilled (and tapped NPT) hole. Or, a pipe-thread to barbed fitting would be used. In like manner, the other side of the plate would be blind-hole drilled, and a cross-drilled hole would be drilled, at the edge of the plate, i.e. sufficiently "rotated" away from the first on-edge hole, and it, too, would be drilled and tapped NPT. These two on-edge drilled and tapped holes would allow an auxiliary air-to-ATF cooler to be used.

It goes without saying that you will use some ATF rated hose. If you do, ensure it is of the utmost quality, and ensure that the clamps are high quality too.

Finally, the lines must be routed to account for vibration or engine movement in service... and must be prevented from chafing anything when that movement occurs. And the lines must be routed so that no-way will any mechanical damage occurs.

We all want to modify our cars, to one degree or another... but the key is to ALSO have OEM quality and OEM-level engineering design for a robust and reliable arrangement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I currently have just the plate to get fluid out to a air-oil cooler, bypassing the factory heat exchanger. I am on the fence on building a system to incorporate the factory HE because the climate here is South Carolina is many things, but cold isn't one. If I was going the way of including the factory HE I agree with your theory. I was envisioning a welded part along these lines since it can be cut from smaller stock, will be lighter, and would allow you to offset the two holes with the nipples and get the whole thing shortened up. I am not machinist though and I think the idea remains the same.


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I am guessing you have not run into anyone on these boards running any type of external cooler setup? Thanks for your input!
 

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Neat work with the graphics program, and good idea. Sorry, I have no experience with this set-up, i.e. with any folks that run it that way. One comment is that the design ought to have a pretty stout centre tube or conduit so that the mechanical natural frequencies are high, and not sympathetic to engine vibration/multiples as "driver" frequencies. Also, it seems to me that if you do it that way maybe you could machine a socket into the plates and then silver-solder the pipe-joints. But the engagement depth would have to be enough... and that might run into prbs with the captured o-ring machining on the other side of the plate.

I was thinking of a round, thickish disk of 6061T6 aluminum... ?

Last comments are:
i) some have said that the optimal running temps for an A/T are 175°F to 185°F... so to my way of thinking the OEM h.e. may still be useful to you in so. Carolina; and

ii) with 245k miles on your car, how much longer will the A/T last... and do you have a plan in place for changeout in an economic fashion, such that A/T failure does not economically "total" your car? As these mods represent a fair bit of effort one would like to think you can get some reasonable "mileage" out of that effort...
 
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