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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Since the manual transmission and axles are original to my car, dont believe there is a TCM, nor understand how there could be a comparability issue. I’m not being critical, just trying to think why/how to test that.
The neutral switch is a thought, but I do have to depress the clutch pedal to start the car, so not hopeful.
I’m going to install the engine and transmission, install the axles and wheels and lower it to the ground. If I manually place it into gear I don’t believe I should be able to push the car. This might shed some light if I remove all electronics from the equation.
 

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Keep it in the air, pull your spark plugs and rotate the crank with a rachet/breaker bar while in gear. Should be able to make it work that way, if the wheels spin then, try and stop them with your hands and if they do, then you KNOW the clutch is slipping. It can be tight enough your hand cant spin it without the tranny in, but loose enough theres no mechanical grip.
 

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2014 Mazda 6 GT & 2006 Mazda 6 GT-MT HB
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Any updates?
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I had to go out of town at the last minute. I’ll get back on this this weekend… I did get the engine and transmission installed, but not the axles yet. I noticed something I need to look at further. The drivers side axle c clip didn’t seem to seat entirely in the groove at the end of the axle. Almost like the groove was too thin or c clip too big?. Maybe it was just the way I was looking at it but I would expect that it should fully recess into the groove to then fully insert into the transmission gears… more to come.
 

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My Talon had stiff C clips on the trans side, so i just used the wheel hub to slam it home since the strut was undone anyway. That could be your whole issue, which i wanna say i eluded to early on. Not to say i told you so or say i was right though.
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
So like I said, after insuring the flywheel, clutch disk, and installed and torqued correctly, I installed the engine and transmission only. Didn’t hook up any wiring and didn’t fill with fluids.
Stabbed the passenger side cv shaft in no problem, but took a harder look at the drivers side. The c clip was a bit gouged, as was the 1/8 leading edge of the shaft - the part that goes into the transmission. I used a V file to smooth out the splines on the end and a flat file to clean out the c clip groove, then installed a new c clip and attempted to stab it back in… but when lining it up to insert, something caught my eye - something shiny and metallic inside the axle hole…

Body jewelry Jewellery Circle Eye glass accessory Eyewear


low and behold, I pulled this out! It is the metal ‘spring’ that is on the inside lip of the axle seal. Clearly being mangled, I can only assume that when installing the axle the first time, it came loose and lodged somewhere inside the axle hole and either prevented the axles from seating properly, or prevented the gears from fully engaging. I think I am pretty lucky it didn’t get ground up in the gears and cause bigger problems. I installed a new axle seal and the cv shaft slid right in. Installed the wheels and dropped it off the stands. Put it in gear and I could only rock it back and forth. With newfound hope, I hooked up everything and filled with fluids. Fired right up and DROVE the car 3’ forward and 3’ backward under its own power! That is all I had room to go with all me tools spread around from this month long saga… but it DROVE under its own power. I’ll finish up the install and double check all fasteners, clean up my tools and this poor car may actually see the light of day for the first time sInce the engine imploded 6-months ago.

This post title may be updated to remove the “then stumped” soon!
 

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2014 Mazda 6 GT & 2006 Mazda 6 GT-MT HB
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Glad to hear you found the issue. So basically one of the axles was popping out under load and that is why your manual "low load" tests seemed to work fine.
I spent 8 months chasing a fuel delivery issue on my SHO that ended being a loose connection. Sometimes you just need to keep looking/testing until you find the issue.
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Car is back in one piece (figuratively) and made its maiden voyage into the light of day with the new 2.5 propulsion. Took it on a 10 mile tour of the countryside I live in and she hummed better than she ever has. Funny the engine sounds and feels smoother/quieter than I ever remember it before. There is still no zoom-zoom with this engine, but moving on its own power is still exhilarating. I am not getting any of the stumbling or codes (knock on wood) that others completing a similar swap encountered. Maybe I paid my price by dealing with the transmission axle seal spring, and the car-gods are being kind.... but for now, I will enjoy cruising around in my beloved 2004 Mazda 6i with a new lease on life. Thanks for all who played this game with me... I'm going to call it a win!
 

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Get a CAI if you want noise :)
 

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Now I know who to call if I ever need to replace my clutch (knock on wood).
By now you must be able to do that in record time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
... a skill I am not proud to have acquired... but I believe I have most of the bolt sizes memorized... lets see, there is the 10mm for the exhaust manifold heat shield, 13mm for the exhaust manifold, 12mm for the clutch slave solenoid, 12mm for the traction control sensors, 8mm for the ground wire on the engine mount... blah blah blah.
 
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