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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. First time poster but not new to the forum (and not a mechanical dolt). With the courage and insight I received from this site, Happy Wrenching, and the Mazda 3 forums I embarked on swapping a 2011 Fusion 2.5l into my 2004 2.3l 6i manual. Spent months and HOURS reading, copying, rereading, planning. Got a 26k mile engine for $650 from a salvage yard and the fun began. The swap went on without a hitch - I used the Mazda intake/exhaust, fuel rail, plugs, crank pulley, crank position sensor, oil pan/pickup, timing cover, and intake cam (with VVT gear swapped). Engine fired up within 15-20 seconds after priming. Idles a bit rough, but I understand that can take 50-100 miles for the ECU to relearn curves. Elated!

While I had the engine and transmission out of the car, I decided to replace the clutch, flexplate and throwout bearing - after all the car has 105k miles on it. Bought an Exedy kit and installed with no concerns; flywheel honed - they said it was near perfect; clutch went in the correct way; flexplate torqued in star pattern; throwout bearing clipped to fork; input shaft lightly greased; new pilot bearing tapped in and lightly greased; transmission refilled with lube; clutch bled. The clutch moves the fork and throwout bearing... the throwout bearing presses on and releases from the flexplate... the car shifts through gears smoothly with the pedal in and out... but the car doesnt move when the pedal is released, nor does it stall out. Stumped!

So I look under the car (with wife in the car) and the passenger CV has come out of the hub joint and is spinning the wheel ever so slightly as it winds up the boot. I must have pulled it out when I was removing the shaft from the transmission. So I take out the passenger CV and intermediary shaft and reinstall the shaft back into the hub joint with a new Cclip, boot and grease. Reinstall and the car still wont move, despite the speedometer recording I achieved 40mph. Stumped!

I just pulled the engine out of the car this evening and have not cracked the tranny open yet (long day)... but I am wondering if anyone has thoughts about the problem. The car had no transmissions concerns before the swap, so clearly I did something. During the swap, after pulling both axles, I did thread a wire through the transmission/axle holes as I read the gears may come out of alignment. With the engine running and shifting through gears, there is no noises, grinding, etc. Stumped.

Additional bit of background - my inlaws purchased the car new, and I received it at 80k miles. I drove it carefree for another 25k before the engine died. Drove it home one day with fluttering tach, TCS/ABS, and engine light on. When driving home, it seemed to run 'ok' when under load, and would act up when decelerating/coasting. I never drove it again. I could barely get it to run. IF it ran, I could not rev over 3k and it would immediately stall if I tried to release the clutch while in gear. I had it towed to a mechanic who said it was out of timing and had caused interference. When taking it apart for the swap I did find that one of the timing chain guides (non-adjustable one) was broken, so the story fit. There was no metal pieces/shavings found upon disassembly. Not entirely sure why the TCS/ABS got thrown in the mix, but allot goes wrong when the timing is off. TBS/ABS and engine light are on after swap.

Go big or go home... How is this for a newbe post? Appreciate any help.
 

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What about the other axle being out too?
 

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The speedo runs off the trans, so something is off. Usually runs off the front diff, so not gears. Gotta be the axles.
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The speedo runs off the trans, so something is off. Usually runs off the front diff, so not gears. Gotta be the axles.
Ok… can’t disagree with the speedo logic for this pointing to the axles. So when installing the axles, the drivers side has a c-clip for the shaft going into the diff, but the passenger side does not. Both axles seem to fully seat in the diff. The passenger side is held in with the intermediary shaft bracket, the drivers side snapped in and the large bell is only 1/16 from the diff.

Anything else to reinstalling the axles? Is there any merit to the wire through the axle holes so the gears don’t come out of alignment?
 

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Gears cant misalign like that. Raise both tires off the ground, spin one. If the other one doesnt spin, youve got an axle issue. If it does spin, that means they are seated in the diff and something else is gonna make us scratch our heads till you find it. The fact that the speedo moves means its not the clutch and since you didnt disassemble the trans...
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Pulled engine again, rechecked clutch, flex plate and throw out bearing and all installed correctly. All part numbers matched what came out of the car. Reinstalled engine and transmission. Made sure the axles were seated all the way…. And nothing!

With me hanging into the engine compartment and my wife in the car, I pulled the shift cable off and manually shifted the tranny into first gear and had my wife release the clutch and no movement. With the
car off and in gear I can push the car… so somehow it is not going into gear.

When off the ground on stands and in gear. Manually turning one tire does spin the other tire.
 

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2014 Mazda 6 GT & 2006 Mazda 6 GT-MT HB
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I suspect the issue is the clutch slipping.
Lift one wheel, turn the engine on and see if the wheel spins in first gear. Then lower the wheel and try again.

If this is the case, either you got the wrong parts or something wasn't installed correctly.
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Jacked up one side. Put it in first and the raised tire spun. I hear something spinning that sounds like it could be the clutch not fully engaging. I’m not trying to be a jerk … but I really have a a hard time thinking I installed the clutch wrong 2x. The part numbers matched exactly what I took out… and this is not rocket science. The flywheel and transmission came out of my Mazda, the clutch has the transmission side facing the transmission. The pressure plate was installed and the bolts snugged then torqued. All the fingers flattened out and gripped the clutch firmly. The throw out bearing greased and free flowing. I can see the throw out bearing releasing the pressure plate fingers completely. What am I missing?
 

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2014 Mazda 6 GT & 2006 Mazda 6 GT-MT HB
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Your pressure plate is not applying enough pressure or the clutch is too thin.
Not sure about Mazda's, last time I worked on a clutch was on an old Jeep Willys and the pressure plate had adjustment bolts.
Something else you can check is that the slave cylinder is fully releasing and/or that something there wasn't assembled incorrectly causing the push rod to stick out further than it should, partially engaging the clutch.
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When I just had it apart to recheck everything I could visually see the new clutch was thicker than the one I removed.

I can see through the clutch fork window the throw out bearing is releasing fully from the pressure plate.

I’m beginning to think I do this for a 3rd time and keep the new clutch but swap back on the old pressure plate as that seems to be the only thing I can fathom is wrong. Anyway way to test/measure the grip of the pressure plate to flywheel before reinstalling?
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
And now with the drivers side wheel in the air, the tranny in gear and the wheel turning I stepped on the brake. The cv popped out on the hub side and is now twisting the boot up. Anyone in Colorado Springs want to do a clutch job? I’m not sure I can stomach doing it again.
 

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Here is the clutch section of the workshop manual. I don't see any adjustments for the pressure plate.
You need to check that the hub (center of the clutch) is not in contact with the flywheel. If your new pilot bearing is taller than the old one, it could come in contact with the hub.
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well it seems I can pull a motor in about 3 hours.
Taking it apart, here is the flex plate, with the alignment tool still slipping in and out easily.
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Product


here is the clutch.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel Font Rim


Here is the flywheel and pilot bearing.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Alloy wheel Hubcap
 

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Did you resurface the FW at all? If so, did they put the required step in it, or at least grind the same off the sides as they did the friction surface?
 

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Did you bleed the clutch? Maybe its holding pressure.
 

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2014 Mazda 6 GT & 2006 Mazda 6 GT-MT HB
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Question:
If they resurfaced the flywheel (surface A?), did they also resurface surface B in the same amount?
Is B-A the same as in a stock flywheel?

Automotive tire Hood Light Wood Automotive lighting
 

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2004 Mazda 6i 2.3 (aka 2011 Fusion 2.5) MTX
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I took the flywheel to have it resurfaced and they said it was flat with no burns so they recommended I do nothing to it. There is nothing different in texture between the clutch wear section and the section the clutch doesn’t touch.
Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Rim
 
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