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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,
I don't post usually, but this forum has been a great help to me every time I've had issues with my car (2005 Mazda 6 sport, V6 with 5spd manual, 5-door hatchback) or needed to do something to the car. I appreciate everyone for pitching in and keeping the community alive.

I have run into an issue lately and would like to hear some suggestions.
Few months ago, I started to feel like the steering was loose and the front wheels were pulling sideways when going over bumps. A local shop told me that all 3 motor mounts (dogbone, trans, and passenger side engine mount) were shot and need replacement. Their quote was outrageous so I got OEM parts from Tascaparts and swapped the mounts myself. The dogbone was torn pretty bad but the other two looked fine...I still swapped all 3 mounts with new mounts.

The car felt great after replacing the mounts. No wheels pulling at all but the steering still felt kinda loose. It didn't bother me much so didn't care to diagnose why the steering was still loose. I was on a road trip this past weekend and I drove through some twisty and steep roads as well as some dirt/paved roads. One of the dirt roads had some seriously steep, slippery, and bumpy hills and I had to drive pretty rough to clear the hill, including hitting the red-line on the tachometer for a few seconds.

The problem is now the engine shakes quite a lot when I start the car or turn it off. It looks like it shakes more on the driver's side. When I try to shake the engine with my hands, it's easier to do so on the driver's side. And I feel a small jerk every time I press on or let go off the gas while the car is in motion. I don't feel that jerk when the car is at rest. I looked at the mounts...they all look fine and the bolts are also not coming loose. The mounts have about 1500 miles on them at the moment.
I'd really appreciate if someone can help me figure out what's going on.

Thanks!
 

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Do you have any check engine lights?

Sounds more like the car is running really rough than that a mount is damaged. Perhaps a vac hose came off or something. Wishful thinking that nothing worse happened and it's a simple fix.

Do you have a rough idle, RPMs bouncing at all, loss of power, or is it strictly engine movement?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for responding Byakuya!

Now that you've asked, I do have some engine/throttle issues but I wouldn't think that would be the reason behind the shake because they occured before the engine shake thing. I could be wrong though.

About 8-9 months ago, while driving on the freeway, my throttle body gave up...the rpms were jumping back and forth, CEL came on, and I lost power. A local mechanic swapped the faulty throttle body with another used body (or maybe he just cleaned what was on the car and lied to me). About a week later, same issue occured. I unplugged the battery for a minute...that cleared the CEL and throttle was fine. I called the guy again....he took the car and brought it back a few days later....told me that he swapped the throttle body with another one (also a used part). After that, no throttle issues until the trip last weekend....the same drill again except that the car started normally after turning the engine off for few minutes. But the CEL was still on and bothered me, so I unplugged the battery at a rest stop to clear that. After that, no throttle issues during the rest of the trip (approx. 1400 miles).

Other than this, the only throttle/engine issue I have is that when the car starts to move from rest, it makes a train-like choppy noise when I press on the gas. I don't hear that after a while....either it goes away after the engine is fully warmed up or I just stop noticing it. This has been there for a while though...like 2 years or so.

I don't have any CEL, or error codes at the moment, the RPMs are normal...smooth and steady, and no power loss. In case it helps...I also changed the spark plugs (NGK Iridium) recently (few days before the mounts)...everything went fine though, no rough engine sound, CEL, or error codes after replacing the plugs.
 

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You should always find out what the CEL is for before clearing it.


Scott
+1

I see this on many threads, and have to agree with Scott. The CEL is the computer saying something is wrong with the input it is receiving from one or more sensors on the car - meaning there's almost certainly a legitimate issue going on. The CEL is not the cause of the problem, and rarely is the ECU itself the cause. Clearing the CEL doesn't do anything to solve the underlying issue. It simply forces the computer to forget the stored fault code.

Unfortunately, years of conditioning on Microsoft products and cable modems has taught us all to reboot first, ask questions later.
 
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