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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi
have a 2004 mazda 6 3.0 v6
major ticking coming from engine, appears that oil may have made way to cats leading to engine failure......
wondering if i pull the heads if i could replace internal parts... valves and so forth...
codes are
po345
po300
po171
p2198

any ideas would help been noticing this may be a common problem with this model wondering if anyone fixed it without new engine replacement.....thanks alot
 

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How do you know the your engine failed? did you do a compression check? Leak down? How many miles you got?
and by ticking? is how loud? Could be just lifters.

Also my engine blew and it blew two piston ring, caused massive oil consumption and scoring of crank and walls.

The head...only suffered from oil seals failing (oil consumption).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah i did compression tests at two shops values all over the place! There is 102,000 km on the engine.......
I priced out the internal parts today coming to 781.00cdn
I think I may try to rebuild to see what happened rather then do the engine swap everyone is saying to do!
Whats your thoughts did you rebuild that engine you spoke of?

I am thinking the money i save i can put towards more horsepower by doing it myself...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hi everyone heres a little update on my progress


dropped oil pan, totally clean no metal! Is that a good sign that it is upper engine? i.e.valves

front cams are all in specs!

alot to get at rear cams though gonna dive in tomm.

noticed that oilpan gasket was shot explains the loss of oil also filter was hand tight alot of oil lost through there also!

any advice would be useful, thanks in advance
 

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check your injectors. the o2 stuck rich leads me to think you may have a leaking injector. and may also contribute to the misfires as well since the fuel is being injected at the wrong time.

cam code could just be the sensor. you can try cleaning it.

what di the compression test say on the cylinders? the rebuild is not a bad thing. just a lil time consuming but not a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well here is where i am at so far any advice would be awesome!!!!!!

mazda has said new engine just like every other poor sole has been told........

the flashing cel codes were mentioned above

my compression test from mazda was 1:160 2:165 3:160 4:170 5:175 6:175
Which cylinders should i look at? what are normal values?

my precats look fine, being a contractor i have a video camera no oil in them though i think i will replace with msds headers!

no sludge in oil at all pan free from metal!

There is definitely an engine knock i swear it is on left side though all cams look ok within specs.

does anyone know how i can inspect the bearings through oilpan before i start looking at valves? i need to know what i am looking for?

I believe I have solved the loss of oil, in this case as the oil pan gasket was shot, also oil filter was leaking...........hmm mazda did last oil change!!!!
I would have noticed this sooner if mazda had not placed the cats there as the oil hits them and burns off!!! dumb

I will still replace pcv once i get her running again!!

the vvt is a little confusing if i put engine to tdc are there any marks that i can verify it is were it should be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
also if anyone know of where to get the workshop manual for this V6 engine would be great might have less questions for you then....

all i have found is for a 4 cyl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the great ny

first awesome car!

i am going to check the injectors now with the manual for the 4 cyl. all i have will let you know.

as far as the cam sensor i am gonna pull that to right now any idea how to check it?
 

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Was the compression test done on a cold or warm engine, and how was the battery charge and was the TB kept open while doing it?

That's not really too bad for a compression test in all honesty. For the engines static compression average is typically between 160-180ish depending on temp and battery strength at the time of cranking
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
not sure mazda did the test soon after told me need an engine!!!!!!
i am within all those numbers you are saying any ideas as to where i should look from here?

can i check for spun bearinf through oilpan?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
if you find it let me know! I would like to look at those bearings before i remove the air cleaner to get to all the valves for inspection!

I really dont want to pull the stuff under the oilpan till i can understand what is entailed in it!!

thanks so much
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well i pulled that cover plate off to look at the bearings, what exactly am i looking for? cause it all looks good to me! worklight died though just charging it will keep you all posted. if it is a spun bearing what is that going to look like?
 

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It seems like you are crying wolf for the sake of crying wolf. everything you have discribed does not suggest bearing issues or compression issues. leave the bottom end alone.

it sure sounds like you have a vac leak or maybe a screwed up injector...... neither will be found in the oil pan.

none of those codes suggest precat failure either......

for all I know it could be just the cam sensor itself is dead and throwing off timing...... which is causing the lean code, the rich code, and the missfire(due to the lean or rich condition).

bottom line is, give us what cards are on the table and what you DO KNOW about the issues you are experiencing....... it is far easier to figure out.

or you can sell me your current motor for 500 bucks like every other person who thinks their motor is blown, and go hunt down another motor.(which if the injectors is the issue, cam sensor, or MAFS..... still won't be solved with a new motor).

PS not trying to be a dick, but dude you are going in a million different directions without as so much telling us what you have already tried or even what is really wrong. the tick you are talking about could just be the motor..... they are rather noisey after all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I understand what your saying but remember I had it at two shops one mazda, both said new engine. I am the one who would like to look and see why that is!
if it were as simple as a cam sensor would mazda not have simply fixed that, my one friend is a diesal mech he is the one who said spun bearing making me think to look at that. I am simply trying to get to bottem of the problem and fix it.

All the things you mention seem fairly easy for mazda to have diagonsed, every shop says internal engine damage cheaper to replace engine. thats why i thought maybe i can figure out whats wrong and not be another sucker you speak of and just give in to new engine..
my car sounds just like this one video and many other \peoples engines all of which replaced to replace engine! But know one posts why that happend.......

 

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All the things you mention seem fairly easy for mazda to have diagonsed, every shop says internal engine damage cheaper to replace engine.......

my car sounds just like this one video and many other \peoples engines all of which replaced to replace engine! But know one posts why that happend.......
That isn't a bottom end noise, that is on top. It sure sounds like a VVT actuator to me. A semi-costly problem with the valve train, but certainly not new engine time. What you and/or your "mechanic" should do is use an automotive stethoscope to pinpoint the actual source of noise and go from there. You can also connect a real-time data monitor to view all the engine sensor activity to help diagnose the issue. This isn't rocket science although most shops had rather swap a motor than open it up to replace parts. There's a lot MORE money and much LESS liability for them to install a warranteed motor from a vendor.
 

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A new motor is going to cost you 2900 dollars + cost of installation. It usually runs people around 1500 to get their new motor installed.

It's definitely a semi costly problem but not something that justifies paying close to 4k to fix.

It sounds like it's stemming from your head.
 

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I think everbody is frustrated because nobody has figured this mess out yet. I'm going to give you my best guess based on what I saw on my engine and what you say you know about yours.

When I got my car I knew it had bad CATs and a damaged engine. I like you knew the sound was coming out of the top end and tore the thing ALL apart hoping I could fix it before I decided to go with the salvage engine. I could not find a single thing wrong in the valve train, NOTHING! Now, after the final teardown and some more research I do have my best guess.

The VVT system actually varies the timing of the hydraulic lifters by sending oil "to" and draining oil "from" the a set of chambers in the actuator. To get there, the oil has to pass through a series of 3 very fine mesh screens. These screens create a large resistance to the flow of oil and if it can, it will flow elseware first. As I show in my pictures, my oil pump had large scratches/grooves in the side walls which more than likely allowed leak-by resulting in a lower oil pressure supplied to the engine. The oil plumbing system in a car is just like the plumbing in a multi-floor house.... the water pressure is always highest on the ground floor and lowest on the second or third. If you are showering on the second floor and somebody runs a sink down stairs, they get the pressure and your shower slows to a dribble.
If your car ran low on oil long enough to damage the oil pump (lower the pressure) and damage the main crank and connecting rod bearings resulting in larger clearances allowing more flow through them (like somebody turned on a sink downstairs), I believe there is not enough oil pressure left to operate the VVT system correctly and inflate the hydraulic lifters so they end up running completely collapsed and rattle like a bitch. To support my theory I refer to post from people who installed an incorrect/cheap oil filter that did not have a reverse flow preventer diaphram and the oil could drain back out of the valve system when the engine was shut-off. They all reported terrible valve clatter for the first 20-60 seconds until the oil system filled and pressurized.
So what should you do????? (Presuming your engine is torn apart and not runable.) First I would remove the oil filter, cut it open with a chisel or actual oil filter cutter (it is like a can opener) and inspect the filter media for metal. You may have to cut the filter paper off the core with a razor or steak knife and lay it out flat on some paper towel. This will give you the best report on damage. Second, remove and inspect the oil pump for damage. Third, if you find metal or damage, then remove and inspect some connecting rod bearings.
If your engine is runable, then the first thing I would do is tee in an actual oil pressure gauge and see what you really have.
There it is....that's my theory and I'm sticking to it.
 

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