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Discussion Starter #1
as the title says, i'm not talking about boy racer shifts. just 3rd to 4th getting on the freeway getting to 60mph.


whenever i shift over 3k (literally like 3500 causes it) the engine bucks really bad and clunks like something is hitting the firewall.


i suspected the mounts because, it's a Mazda and mounts have been an issue for my 1st gen 6 (ended up running awr trinity) and 2nd gen 3 (ended up with efocus rear lower)


so i took it to the dealer to get confirmation that the mounts are shot and that i needed new ones. they told me that i was abusing the car and that i was never supposed to shift past 3k rpm. **edit** they also said the mounts were fine.


so my question to the mtx owners on here is: Really? no shifting over 3k rpm?
 

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so my question to the mtx owners on here is: Really? no shifting over 3k rpm?
I'm not a mtx owner but 3k rpm, really ?

In the owner's manual they recommend shifting points for normal acceleration and cruising :
https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manuals/2018/mazda6/contents/05290102.html

They also specify that :
When the tachometer needle enters the STRIPED ZONE, this indicates to the driver that the gears should be shifted before entering the RED ZONE.
Cluster A : https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manuals/2018/mazda6/contents/05020804.html?kw=rpm&hw=rpm
Cluster B : https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manuals/2018/mazda6/contents/05020904.html?kw=rpm&hw=rpm
Cluster C : https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manuals/2018/mazda6/contents/05021004.html?kw=rpm&hw=rpm

I would recommend asking them to point in your manual where it's specified to never shift over 3k rpm... Hey, even the atx shifts higher than that when accelerating ! Oh, maybe you're not supposed to press the pedal more than half it's course... :laugh2:
 

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as the title says, i'm not talking about boy racer shifts. just 3rd to 4th getting on the freeway getting to 60mph.


whenever i shift over 3k (literally like 3500 causes it) the engine bucks really bad and clunks like something is hitting the firewall.


i suspected the mounts because, it's a Mazda and mounts have been an issue for my 1st gen 6 (ended up running awr trinity) and 2nd gen 3 (ended up with efocus rear lower)


so i took it to the dealer to get confirmation that the mounts are shot and that i needed new ones. they told me that i was abusing the car and that i was never supposed to shift past 3k rpm. **edit** they also said the mounts were fine.


so my question to the mtx owners on here is: Really? no shifting over 3k rpm?
Dealer flat-out lied to you.
 

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No shifting at over 3000 RPM? What if you need to overtake? 2500 RPM will be too slow.

When I'm using Auto mode, the gear will shift from 2nd to 3rd at 4500 RPM. That is 500 RPM, short to red line. The diesel variant has a red line of 5000 RPM.

I sometimes hit the red line when I'm using Manual mode. In my case, I think I'm the one who might be abusing the car.

My brother's CX-5, gasoline variant, will hit at higher RPM than normal, before shifting when he is using Sports mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so i'm at dinner with my girl and the "service manager" from the dealership calls me to explain to me that Mazda 6's aren't built for high rev shifting. i try to explain to him that this isn't my first rodeo dealing with Mazda mounts and bucking engines. (intentional pun) he's not listening and trying to tell me that i'm a noob and i just need to adjust to my non zoom zoom 6. needless to say i go bitter and tell him to have a good day and hang up on him. i have an appointment tomorrow at another dealership.
 

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I'm relatively new to Mazda's (2018 M6 sport) but I've been driving manuals for almost 30 years. Is this service manager for real? To the OP, any way you can post a video of this "bucking"?
 

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Could it be an air/fuel delivery problem? Have you tried the easy stuff like new air filter and deep cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor?
 

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Is it a single bang, or bucking a couple of times? This engine has a heavy flywheel and isn't the fastest to wind down once off the gas. Also, the trans mount seems to have the durometer strength of cooked noodles. I really had to readjust my thinking about what an aggressive shift was when driving this car (16 Touring 6mt), or it scolds me with a bang as the engine hits the bump stop.

However, I grew to appreciate the OEM mount during the time between when I installed a stiffer mount and OVT bumped the idle speed during tuning. The 2.5 skyactive is not very smooth at idle when the AC compressor is on at the idle speed Mazda chose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could it be an air/fuel delivery problem? Have you tried the easy stuff like new air filter and deep cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor?

i've only put around 1000 miles on it since i bought the car, so i didn't even think that would be something to look at.
 

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i've only put around 1000 miles on it since i bought the car, so i didn't even think that would be something to look at.
It might not make a difference but I doubt it's something the dealership did. I've found that cleaning the throttle body and MAF can definitely have a positive impact on idling problems, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm relatively new to Mazda's (2018 M6 sport) but I've been driving manuals for almost 30 years. Is this service manager for real? To the OP, any way you can post a video of this "bucking"?

i can try. it only happens while driving. i'll get my girl to hold the phone and record and see if that helps.
 

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It might not make a difference but I doubt it's something the dealership did. I've found that cleaning the throttle body and MAF can definitely have a positive impact on idling problems, etc.

I agree with MazdaMetalhead mine did the same thing until I took the throttle body off the engine and gave it a good clean and spray the heck out of the MAF sensor. Just remember try not to get the cleaning solution into the throttle body servo controller.
 
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